BLOZ UP Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) Got new center gauges. SpeedHut 2-5/8". Haven't found decent install instructions here for these gauges, so I'm experimenting and can report back. Got 2 gauges installed. Will need to dissassemble the first one to redo it, and dissassemble the second one to repaint the OE trim black. Boost/Vacuum Fuel Pressure Oil Pressure All with high/low warning feature and peak recall, IIRC. The wiring bag marked "Fuel Pressure Gauge" came with a 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8" NPT female adapter that I can use for the oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure gauge bag came with another NPT adapter or two. Or was it the other way around? Regardless, I have almost everything I need to hook them up (still need a turbo oil feed solution that may come off the oil pressure sending unit hole on the block). First one I did was the easiest--so I thought. The clock: Step 1: Remove everything in the way: Remove gauge, dissassemble casing, remove innards. Remove clock set button/dial (I crushed the plastic hole it came through). Drilled 2" hole in the center. Had to grind away part of the black lip of the OE gauge cover to let the SpeedHut gauge come through the clear plastic enough to tighten down with the retaining ring. After this I installed it and it looked like shit, but was secure. It's at a completely wrong angle. Oops. So I started on the second gauge, the fuel gauge replacement (My SpeedHut speedo has a small fuel gauge): Again, take gauge apart and remove innards. I tried drilling the plastic but it broke. I then decided to use the included spacer from SpeedHut against the gauge front cover--but this required grinding down the front cover lip completely. Then the front cover lip fell out and the ID of the gauge hole increase, making my spacer and retaining ring have nothing to grip. Finally, I used the metal gauge trim. I removed the center cross piece and bent all edges inward (into the dash). I place it in the front cover (the retaining plastic pins were broken but no matter), then slip the gauge through and tightened the ring. Success! But My grinding removed the paint from the front cover so I need to take it apart again to touch it up: That's as far as I got. I seemingly failed to take a photo of the finished gauge outside the dash. But, basically, you need to widen the bottom-most hole a couple mm so that the largest plug from the back of the new gauge fits through. I also put on a rubber grommet on those hole--which I highly recommend to avoid firey (fuse) death. After fixing those two I need to do the boost gauge, then wire it all in. I already have the main 2 gauges wired in I just have to tap in to those. Also, protip: The instructions say to plug in the button (1/8" stereo plug) to the "back left" side. This is slightly confusing but the diagram sort of lazily points to the left side as viewed from the front of the gauge, so the right if you are looking at the back of the gauge (with the wiring pigtail at the bottom). I got a nice condition Z32 pulley (TT I believe, if that makes a difference): It fits! (Z32 pulley on crank, Z31 pulley on the engine stand frame). Didn't get a chance to see if it would fit, maybe today. Edited April 21, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Ugh. Looks like I need an underdrive pulley. Z31 setup for reference: Looks like the VG33 crank snout and Z32 pulley sticks out more. Perhaps I didn't install it all the way, but I tried to line up the pulleys where I thought they went. I need the VG33 timing gear and shims installed to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 The Z32 NA balancer is smaller, from what I've read. I need someone to measure it for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 So after failing to get any good measurements of the various crank pulleys, I resorted to measuring via a photo I found of Z32 NA, TT, and cheap underdrive pulley I found on the internet. I estimated the underdrive at 5.34", which fits so I ordered one. It's 5.25", really close to my (conservative) estimate. Perhaps in the future I will splurge for the $500 ATI damper, but I can't really justify spending that much on the crank pulley. I'd rather get a lightweight flywheel for that money. I ordered 2 new timing plates, a new pilot bushing, and some replacement clutch bolts (which held the order back for 2 weeks): The eBay underdrive pulley fits well. Removed the D22 Pump and installed the Z31 pump since while having two belts would be nice from a space perspective, I forgot I'd have to make another tensioner, so no dice: That's about it. I don't seem to have a lower timing cover, but it wouldn't work with the Z31 water pump anyway, so I'm going to have to hack my Z31 cover up to make it work. Ugh. Still need to clean and port my lower intake, reinstall the fuel rails (have new injectors), fix the fuel lines, fix the oil line to the turbo, fab the oil filter relocation lines, rewire the fusible link wires, rewire the starter cable. Install the timing covers and belt, reassemble all the piping. Then I can try starting it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 (edited) Had a little bit of time to work on it. I took out the motor to get the clutch installed. Too cheap to get a real puller for the automatic spacer thing: Flywheel and pilot bushing installed (also tapered the inlet of the bushing with my dremel since I hammered the hell out of it): Really wish I could have put on a lightweight flywheel, it would better match the 800+ lbs weight difference between the car the flywheel was originally designed for. Blurry photo of my ACT street clutch being put back on. I found a alignment tool, thank the gods. This saved me an hour or two of engine wrestling. Also put on new VG33 (supercharged!) clutch plate bolts from Nissan. Since the VG33 has this fancy knock sensor ($250 new from Nissan!), I decided to at least hook it up and try it out with Megasquirt. Installed some -10 Push-lock lines for the oil filter relocation stuff. These 2 90s will go to 2 straights, in theory. I might need two more 90s (ugh, not cheap). And here it is so far. Engine isn't completely bolted to the transmission. Nor to the crossmember, but it is ready to be. Also put the 1/8" BSPT to -4 AN adapter on the oil pressure sender spot (above where the starter goes). The line reaches farther than I thought but I'll still need more line I'm betting. Edited May 25, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I just replaced my steering rack from under my LS motor's crank pulley. It was tight but do-able. You do have to consider future maintenance on these motor swaps or you will want to blow your brains out later. Cleaning the underside and keeping it clean helps with the frustration factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Shouldn't be too hard. Undo motor mounts, lift engine up. Then remove steering rack. I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) I nearly forgot to remove and transplant the CHTS from old heads to new ones. Here it is with a new harness and and actual retaining clip. The old connector was severely corroded. After a few beers I figured out how to mount what was formerly known as the fusible links. I used the no longer used transistor ignition. 1970s transistor revealed: Take it apart, remove everything. Take back cover, grind sides off. Drill some holes: Mount fuse holder. Install and your sort of done. Still need to wire it up and cover it. Also installed DF fender liner. No more rocks. Installed starter, rest of transmission bolts. Tested out new shifter. Can't wait. Edited May 27, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 (edited) Put timing belt on. New oil pump didn't have indent, so I sort of made one. I forgot how stupid the tensioning procedure is. After it's tightened your supposed to stick a 0.35mm feeler gauge between the belt and the tensioner. Why? Also have a proper lower timing cover on the way. Just need to put in that order for the spacer, fix some fuel lines and wiring and that should be it? Edited June 5, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Looking good man. I'm finally going to have my wiring harness sent off and redone for my application. I've gotten a couple promotions at work and now work more so more $$$ to pour into this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Thanks. I just did some wiring. Have the starter wires in (ugly and cumbersome, but should pass tech. I think.). Also have the fan relay and ECU power in on the tray side. Not sure why I have ECU power routed through here. The stock ECU power wires should have been sufficient. Oh well. Still need an engine to frame ground, but ran out of cable. Also got what was formerly the fusible links wired up next to the fuse box. Not real fond of the cover, it just snaps in place. I'm looking to replace it with a block that has a screw on cover. For now I will zip tie it. Also got my new old lower cover in. It comes awfully close to the timing belt. Might need to modify it with a hammer. Lower intake is also installed. I didn't gasket match the heads or do any work on the lower. Maybe next time. 750CC injectors are installed and I just need to order a few fittings to finish the fuel lines. I also fixed the gauge mounting and have the gauges installed, but not wired in. Still need exhaust studs, (re)wire up and install the alternator, wire up the gauges, test the wiring, install the exhaust stuff, bolt up engine to crossmember, fix the intercooler, mount and connect oil filter block, tighten down the battery box.... Don't think I'll make the autocrosses/drift events at the end of this month. Edited June 9, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) Got some magnetic numbers in. Looks great. Doors are ready to race. The rest of the car: not so much. Did some more wiring, but didn't take many photos. Have the new triple Speedhut gauges in and powered. Wired up a new alternator output line since I apparently removed the old one. Spent lots of time tracing wires to make sure nothing would blow up... and turned everything on. Only blew one fuse! I had wired in the Speedhut gauges to the old gauge harnesses and plugged them in backwards. Oops. Luckily after fixing the problem and replacing the fuse my gauges appear to be fine. Megasquirt powers up and is ready to (try and) start the VG33. Just need to get the VG33 ready. Managed to mail off some car parts to my old house in Texas so I'll need to buy them again. Maybe they'll return it and I'll get a partial refund, if I'm lucky. Too bad I don't have my old neighbor's number any more... I did order a 11mm spacer after taking measurements. I'm trying out this emachineshop.com, so we'll see. I'm getting five of them since the total price was nearly the same as one. Hopefully someone will buy the rest. Edited June 16, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Managed to mail off some car parts to my old house in Texas so I'll need to buy them again. Maybe they'll return it and I'll get a partial refund, if I'm lucky. Too bad I don't have my old neighbor's number any more... Need help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Here's a bad photo of the gauges: Left to right: Boost/Vacuum, Fuel pressure, Oil Pressure. Ordered from most likely to destroy my engine to least likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) I've switched back to the VG33 water pump. I didn't like the way the VG33 front cover fit without it, and this will allow my timing belt to be fully enclosed as well as fully support the front cover so I don't have to modify it. Since this brings the water pump pulley out up to the middle pulley on the balancer there's now another problem: The alternator needs to come out as well. I could run two belts if a very short (<24"?) belt exists and I had a way to tension it. Since that's a lot of work I'm going to try the seemingly much easier task of getting the alternator and/or alternator pulley out up to the next pulley, then it should just work. Assuming the 2" extra length doesn't interfere with anything else, which it shouldn't. I might pick up a Titan alternator which has overkill amperage output as well as a thick 6+ rib pulley that will help get the belt lined up. I may end up integrating a new passenger side mount/alternator mount, which would a) allow me to redo that engine mount which is kind of whack anyway, allow the mount to be smaller, and c) save a few lbs of redundant metal. Edited June 30, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) I believe I've solved all the belt issues, now it's just a matter of finding a belt that fits. The old belt was 46.5", I 'measured' and got 42". The 42 and 42.5" belts I picked up were too small, so I exchanged them for a 43" and 43.9" which also turned out to be too small, despite the 43.9" fitting right in the middle of the tensioner range at one point. Before that I verified the timing belt was installed correctly and tensioned it. Then I fumbled around with 3.0 and 3.3L timing covers before settling on the 3.3L covers. The lower needed a little adjustment with my mini-sledge to fit the thermostat outlet pipe (which really needs to be redone, but some other day...). Otherwise... Fixed, welded and painted engine/alternator mount and installed alternator. Cleaned and installed the lower intake but forgot to put that coolant hose on the easy way Installed annoying coolant hose the hard way Installed crank pulley with spacer (on the front, the way it's meant to go). Pressure tested new fuel lines Cleaned and installed upper intake. Connected injectors Installed spark plug wires Hooked up CHTS and CAS Got some SR20 filters, oil, coolant and gear oil. Cleaned up exhaust manifolds My fuel pump didn't sound happy. It might be time for a new pre-pump fuel filter. Then again, it could be low voltage since I ghetto rigged it up to pressure test, the wires I used were a bit thin and got hot. I only got 20psi on the gauge, so perhaps the pressure regulator needs adjustment (it shouldn't). What left before I can start it... DON'T FORGET: Reinstall coolant block plugs since you still haven't done so! You will be sorry! Torque crank bolt Install exhaust Manifolds Install turbo and hook up exhaust, oil and coolant lines Mount and hookup remote oil filter (might need custom mount) Oil Coolant What's left before I can drive Transmission fluid Engine hasn't exploded Unexploded engine isn't hemorrhaging fluids. Charge piping (lots of custom fab needed) White balance was set wrong for a few shots, sorry. Edited July 7, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 ...And yeah I welded some extra intake bolts in to the support for the alternator mount. Couldn't find my extra 1/8" mild sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) I was hoping to start it last night but there's really a lot of small things to do in one night. Plus, the later it gets the more time I spend fighting off insects. Coolant plugs are in. I freaked out for a bit when I check the FSM for the location of the coolant drain plugs. On the VG33 pathfinder, one of them is apparently right where my oil feed is located. On the VG30 this is an oil passage. Well I eventually calmed down when I remembered cleaning out the old oil after taking out the stock oil pressure sending unit. Still, that's weird. Maybe the FSM is wrong. My coolant plugs were lower down on the block, which makes more sense. Tightened motor mounts down, which took way too much time. Mocked up exhaust to try and determine where to put oil filter block. Decided it should go right where the coolant overflow is--it's time to replace the overflow anyway. Edited July 8, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) What's left before I can start it... DON'T FORGET: Reinstall coolant block plugs since you still haven't done so! You will be sorry! Find belt that fits 42" 42.5" 43" 44" 45" 45.5" (?) 46" 46.5" (also learn how to measure) Torque crank bolt Widen flange bolt holes and install exhaust manifolds Install turbo and hook up exhaust, oil and coolant lines Mount and hookup remote oil filter (might need custom mount) Fix/replace coolant overflow (might need to build custom one) Oil Coolant Re-wire up fuel pump Fix oil leak(s). Fix coolant leak(s). What's left before I can drive Transmission fluid Engine hasn't exploded Unexploded engine isn't hemorrhaging fluids Mount intercooler Charge piping (lots of custom fab needed) Edited July 11, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Got the exhaust installed. I had to drill out the holes a bit more than they were to get them to fit without raising the engine. Cutting the flanges inbetween each runner made it a pain as I had to man handle it a bit. This Frontier valve cover didn't fit, so I swapped back to the Z31 ones, after cleaning them a bit. Installed primaries and the secondaries/turbo/wastegate/downpipe assembly as one unit. Man it, uh, takes some finagling to get it all in there but it fits. New oil feed is easy to run, nothing really in the way. Just have to turn the turbo coolant line over a bit. Remote oil filter block should also be pretty easy but I don't have enough line. Plug wires run a little close to the exhaust... but this is no different than with the old motor. I'll tidy them up. I'm going to test putting the oil block on the other side, but it definitely fits well here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.