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BLOZ UP


BLOZ UP

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Well, here it is. I got it off Craigslist for (what I would call) a deal. Came with ghetto carpet botch job, spare parts, 38,000 original miles (AFAICT), Leaky DR brake cylinder, and a really rusty gas tank.

 

As of these pictures, I cleaned the tank which now has left over rust floating in it, and replaced the filter. The pump inlet has gotten clogged 3 times now. Each time takes longer than the previous, so hopefully it's pretty much free of loose rust. Fixed the lights, turn signals, fixed & flushed the brakes and some interior pieces. Bought and installed XXR 513 wheels in 16x8-0. 225/50 tires off of my old Z31. Looks like an SUV, and the DR tire rubs the finder only slightly on bumps. Thinner tires should do the trick, like 215 or 205 if I have to. I think I'll go for 15x7 or smaller next time. I took off the dash cover and the glue took off quite a bit of the dash. There were two cracks that were being covered up. Now there's a mess.

 

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i actualy like that decal any idea where to get one?

 

It was a factory trim run hence the ZAPP, sort of like the Black pearl or the Anniversary Zx's they only made a few thousand I doubt you could ever find a decal but I'm sure you could remake one somehow. Plus I think those rims make the ZAPP paint job look great, wheels definitaly can make or break a car. Do you have any plans to repaint the one fender and redo the decal or just repaint the whole thing?

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Yes, I plan on redoing the decals, and keeping the original color if I ever do repaint. I'm starting to regret getting the 16x8s, when I could have gotten the 15x7s in the same color and offset and it would have fit a lot better. However, I didn't have any 15" tires at the time, I had some like new 16s instead, and I thought it was a "good idea".

 

Rolling the fenders seems like it might solve the problem. But I don't believe in rolling fenders, especially not on fenders this nice.

 

It was $2,300.

Edited by BLOZ UP
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  • 2 months later...

I've been busy with school but in between solving differential equations and stabbing my eyes out over surface integrals, I managed to get a few things done on the Z.

 

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It's the cheapest one from Summit I could find. $85 bucks and it flows more than the auto parts store replacement that was installed. It was also cheaper even with Summit's "free" shipping. The instructions it came with said 3/8" inlet, but it lied. Summit's website stated 5/16", and it was correct. No worries, though, since the 3/8" inlet screws right on it. They are all made by the same factory in China, I'm sure.

 

I also had installed a cheap Autozone carb fuel filter before the pump. It gets clogged within a mile of driving, so the tank really, really, needs to be cleaned again (by someone who will guarantee their work this time). I don't want to kill this new pump, so I haven't driven it very much at all since installing it.

 

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I also bought an automatic antenna from Autozone. I really didn't want to have a permanent antenna sticking out all the time. Plus, this one came with the angled mount that I needed. The others didn't seem to have any options. It was a little pricy, but I'm thinking it will be worth it in the end. Installation was straightforward, but the stock harness requires a little modification for it to work. You can use the original switch, but my switch had been replaced and I didn't like it. My new radio had an antenna lead, so I decided to make it all automatic. You have to remove the antenna switch, hack up the harness and connect the +12v ACC to the constant +12v for the antenna. I routed the blue wire from the harness (+12v ACC) to the L/R wire going to the antenna for that. So the antenna will only work when the car is at least on ACC. The antenna lead from the aftermarket radio went to the L/W wire to the L antenna wire. This is the switched +12v. Then connect the grounds, and you are done. The antenna will go up and down as you turn on and off the radio, but if you turn the car off before turning off the radio tuner, the antenna will stay up. Not a big deal to me.

 

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Finally, I tested the compression pressure. Not so good, it was.

 

PSI

140

142.5

136

140

138

137.5

 

I added oil to #3, it only went up 5-8 psi. I'm thinking the valves are all nasty. The thing is one of the slowest cars I've driven, and it appears to be getting ~10MPG. The spark plugs indicated a rich condition...

 

I also took off the valve cover while I was there, just to see what it looked like. Besides having one stripped valve cover bolt hole on the head, it looked great.

 

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No sludge that I can see. That's cheap oil that I put in right after I bought it, too, so maybe someone took good care of this thing, and/or it really does have low miles.

 

I hate stripped threads though, especially on bolt holes. Ugh.

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That's looks great love the color! what are your plans with the louvers? Are you keeping them?

 

 

However when it comes to the broken bolts, my wife got me one of these sets for x-mas last year, and they work pretty well.

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-4017P-Drill-out-Broken-Extractor/dp/B00004Z2FC/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290991418&sr=1-7

 

It took a little getting used to, but they work better than the sets that are only meant for screws.

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That's looks great love the color! what are your plans with the louvers? Are you keeping them?

 

 

However when it comes to the broken bolts, my wife got me one of these sets for x-mas last year, and they work pretty well.

http://www.amazon.co...90991418&sr=1-7

 

It took a little getting used to, but they work better than the sets that are only meant for screws.

 

The car didn't have louvers when I bought it. I am keeping these.

 

The threads in the hole are stripped, not the bolt, nor is the bolt broken. I'm not too concerned, since it does not require fixing.

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Here's a photo of my radio:

 

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I thought I had a better shot of it, but that's what I could find. Maybe later. What I am trying to show is that the color is green on the radio; it matches the dash illumination pretty well. Mission failed. Maybe after finals I can try again.

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  • 2 months later...

Yeah, couple things. Tokico lowering springs and new shocks on all corners. Looks great now, but the rear tires really rub now on bumps, and the front's rub a bit on full-lock. I foresee a 215/55/16 purchase in the future. I'm trying to keep it close to the stock diameter. Not rolling any fenders.

 

Cleaned up the engine bay, new coil, checked and set the valve lash.

 

Most importantly I installed another fuel tank that wasn't rusted to hell. I used some muriatic acid on as well. That stuff works great! I've gone through a tank and it is indeed getting ~11mpg. Plugs don't look bad. The fuel pump I installed is either dying due to the 10 miles I drove it when the fuel inlet was... clogged a bit--or it is just a loud pump. It's really irritating. Tempted to get an OE replacement.

 

I picked up a cheap set (if that is the correct term for an inline engine) of headers. Hopefully once I get over the next hump of homework and tests I'll have enough time to install the headers and make a new exhaust for it. I plan on "tuning" this NA a bit. Intake, cam, headers, megasquirt.

 

I'm going to make this one exhaust work for both the L28 and the VG30ET whenever I get around to installing it. At least, from the downpipe back. Pics are on the other computer which is too much of a hassle right now, since I'm really supposed to be doing homework. It's 1:30 in the morning already? Sheesh...

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Installed the headers this past weekend. I got the OE manifold off without taking the intake off. However, my plan to sneak the 6-1 header up from the bottom failed when I realized just how bulky it is and how I'd need the car on a lift to even begin to try to squish it up there. So, I took off the intake. I pulled the rail and injectors to the side, and noticed that the two black top injectors are completely different style injectors. Maybe off of a 280ZX or something. Knowing the other PO tricks, they are probably a different size. Ugh, no wonder it gets shitty mileage. Seems easy enough to fix later though.

 

Since the 6-1 headers didn't have an EGR port, I had to modify the intake a bit ;)

 

Some of the intake bolts were loose; someone's been here before. Also, some didn't have washers either. I found it amusing the way Nissan has only top bolts holding the intake on but just studs and washers pressing against the bottoms.

 

I've ordered a mild steel 3" builder's kit, 24" "resonator", and a stainless 14" muffler. Couldn't find any decent tips online so I will hold off and check the local shops when it's all together. The 6-1 has a 2.5" exit, I've ordered a 2.5" to 3" transition. I'm making it 3" from header back because I plan on being able to swap from VG30ET to L28 more-or-less easily, and I don't want to have to make and then swap the entire exhaust system.

 

I'll take photos when I start building the exhaust.

 

It's loud as **** with open headers. I miss my turbo engines.

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