SUNNY Z Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 I apologize for the slow nature of this build. Its out of my control at the moment, as my car is still with the builder for the LT headers that we are doing a group buy on. I hope to have it back soon........ until then, I guess ill keep looking at the parts pile in my shop lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 As I'm sure many of you now know, I HAVE MY CAR BACK! I've started mocking up the rest of my exhaust system, which will include a true dual 2.5" out the back, with magnaflow bullet mufflers, and an H-pipe. I began by building my mock up mufflers to the exact size of a real one, with some scrap around the shop. Enjoy! Maganaflol The rest of my TO DO list includes: -Radiator and Fans -Finish Engine Harness -Install dash -Driveshaft -Rebuilt T56 (opened up my "pullout from running car" to find the 3/4 synchro hub in 3 pieces....... ) Sooooo i get to take a crash course on manual tranny rebuilds - pretty easy really, I've assisted with a couple, but this will be the REAL test -Brake system maintenance ( Flush, fresh pads/ shoes at a BARE minimum) ..... maybe reaction disk?? -Install transmission hydraulics -Inspect and test fuel system (relays, pump, regulator, check for leaks) -TIRES So needless to say, I have my work cut out for me. However, I have a guy buying my camaro friday, so I should have a little extra money to help ease the pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 After some figuring, I'm going to go with a dual 3" setup, as the motor I'm planning for in the future will need a little more breathing room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) Here you beggars go! This shows where the #3 primary is quite close How i have it rigged for first start (NOT PERMANANT) Passengers side Also had to do some clearance work on a bolt to get my drive belt to fit after- before I also took that stupid little in-between the bumper and car thing off today. Gonna make this all smooth and nice eventually Got into this area so i can do the work on the fuel filler... Mock up panel for relays for engine harness and i was doing this all with the doors WIDE OPEN. It was a marvelous 68 Degrees here today! Vague idea of ground clearance / collector location and some of my side projects ls1 cam lamp ls1 (painted like lsx) Coffee table to be Edited January 31, 2012 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Keep them coming Josey! Like the zip tie plug wire fix, sweet. Where you ground down the bolt, I had Jimmy [Zkek cnc guy] bore the hole in the bracket a little deeper, shorten the bolt the same amount and machine a tad off the bolt head to provide sufficient clearance from the belt. Same end result... Can't wait to see the duals all the way back. Side [each of fuel cell] or center exit? H or X pipe, resonators, mufflers, cutouts? You thinking an angled plug wire or something different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Keep them coming Josey! Like the zip tie plug wire fix, sweet. Where you ground down the bolt, I had Jimmy [Zkek cnc guy] bore the hole in the bracket a little deeper, shorten the bolt the same amount and machine a tad off the bolt head to provide sufficient clearance from the belt. Same end result... Can't wait to see the duals all the way back. Side [each of fuel cell] or center exit? H or X pipe, resonators, mufflers, cutouts? You thinking an angled plug wire or something different? I'm thinking a 90* boot will probably remedy that, but it still might take some persuasion from... something idk what. The duals should be relatively easy (more tunnel room than a 4th gen F-body) if you can believe that. It helps greatly that the driveshaft won't be moving down, as it does in a live axle car. Also, no god forsaken torque arm to deal with. The mufflers are going to be 3" magnaflow bullets, with the rear of the mufflers being just in front of the diff crossmember. I'll need to take that x-member out and clearance it. Wouldn't be any big thang if I had my dad's plasma cutter! ... I'll figure it out though. As for the crossover, I had originally planned on doing an H pipe, but I might go nuts and build an X. (Again, would be nice if I had my buddy's band saw to cut them with) And again, I'm sure I will make it work. I was planning on doing duals, with one exit on each side. However, I have been toying with the thought of Center Mount Exhaust (CME from here on out). I also thought about doing a no-tips dump close to the rear. Still up in the air. More pressing matters at the moment.... I need to learn how to rebuild a T56 ... But seriously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) MSD makes some LS plug wires that hold a shape after you bend them (kind of like Gumby). I think that would solve your problem with header/wire contact. Thanks for the pictures. I'm hoping to run some electric ovalized exhaust cutouts inside the front fenders to allow for side exit/dump tubes. It is going to be more tricky with these headers, but still do-able. I'm really impressed at how tight they are to the bottom of the car. I'm trying to rest at night this week and go 24-48 hours straight this weekend in order to try and crank my car this Sunday. Worst case would be the following week. I love your furniture plans-the joys of life before marraige! Edited February 1, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
octagon Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 it was a really nice day wish i was at a point to do something to my car, keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Well I have ordered my mandrel bends, mufflers, flanges, more battery cable, relays, wiring, and connectors. Everything should be here by the end of the week. Some very minute wiring to finish, and then i need to get the fuel filler figured out, and we should be cranking! Hard to believe, but its coming soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 What are you using for a fuel tank? Just curious as I'm almost done with my setup and will post some pictures in a few days. Danno74z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 What are you using for a fuel tank? Just curious as I'm almost done with my setup and will post some pictures in a few days. Danno74z ls1 fbody tank, flipped 180*. Not stoked about it, but it was free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Did you have to remove the steering shaft to install these headers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Did you have to remove the steering shaft to install these headers? I didn't actually install them. As per blake's instructions though, you just remove the drivers side engine mount bolt, and jack up the engine, and then slide it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280AZ Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Hahaha i saw a photo of an engine as a coffee table with a glass top on it, it was pretty rad. This is the first time ive seen your build and it looks really fantastic! I wish i had as much know how as you do, unfortunately i am a total noob and rely on my mechanic friend to help me anytime something goes wrong with my car hahaha. Anyways, great job, keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Oh snap! I have poly motor mounts and that bolt is a total PITA to remove. The oil pressure sender is really close, so it is tough to get a sledge hammer in there to pound the bolt in...for some reason the passenger side is easy-it is the driver side that is so tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) Hahaha i saw a photo of an engine as a coffee table with a glass top on it, it was pretty rad. This is the first time ive seen your build and it looks really fantastic! I wish i had as much know how as you do, unfortunately i am a total noob and rely on my mechanic friend to help me anytime something goes wrong with my car hahaha. Anyways, great job, keep it up! Thanks man, and I'll be sure to post a pic when the table is finished. Sometimes you just have to get your hands dirty and make mistakes to learn! I never had anyone help me, just the forums and the net, and turning wrenches. The only thing to it is to do it! Oh snap! I have poly motor mounts and that bolt is a total PITA to remove. The oil pressure sender is really close, so it is tough to get a sledge hammer in there to pound the bolt in...for some reason the passenger side is easy-it is the driver side that is so tough. I would suggest relocating your oil pressure sender to behind the intake where the factory oil pressure sender is. Its to the drivers side of the MAF sensor. The only thing the factory sender does is run a gauge. I'm using the factory sender for my autometer gauge. My sanderson headers necessitated the moving of it in the first place. so glad i did. Edited February 2, 2012 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Well the mufflers and 3 bolt flanges showed up yesterday, and the mandrel bend builder kit should be here monday. I also ordered the remainder of the wiring, which should be here either tomorrow or monday. I also ordered a full poly bushing kit ($$$), which will be in around wednesday. In the meantime, I'm going to pay a good friend of mine a visit this weekend to tear down the the t56 and learn to rebuild them myself. I also completed the above mentioned relay panel in aluminum, which i'll post pics of later. Thas all for today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Can you shoot me a photo of the fittings you used for the oil pressure sender? I considered this what you are suggesting, but I couldn't figure out how to de-conflict the vacuum line and the factory gauge sender (so big). It seemed like a lot of off-set fittings would be required. Send me a pic of how you did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) Hey Josey, a picture of the mandrel bend builder kit would be cool when it arrives. 3 inch dual all the way back right? Joe Edited February 3, 2012 by rags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Josey, since we've got the v-bands at the headers why not use them for the rest of the exhaust? I purchased them for mine-tired of the 3 bolts & gaskets... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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