EvilC Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Looking great! I do love the way the manni came out. I got a free 5.3 today with harness and ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 Well I finally said screw it. I ordered the OVERPRICED JTR (sanderson)conversion headers as I couldn't find anything else that would fit how I wanted. Its retarded. $500 for shorties? I can buy Stainless longtubes for an F-body for that. Here's about how the transaction went. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow78z Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hopefully they send you the right set. I just got mine in the mail today and they are for a SBC engine instead of a GEN III. Grrrrrrrr! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Sunny Z I'm not sure if the 5.3 block has the same external bosses but be aware on the driver's side of the block (at least on the LS1 5.7) is a protruding rectangular piece of the block casting. This casting must be removed before you tighten up the header or you will squash the primary tube. I used a short blade on a sawzall and sliced off about 1/4-1/2 inch of material. Since my block is aluminum it cut like a hot knife through butter. Again this might be a moot issue for you but check it out before you tighten up the headers. And yes they ARE expensive but they are well made and the fit is very good if they send you the correct ones! Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Sunny Z I'm not sure if the 5.3 block has the same external bosses but be aware on the driver's side of the block (at least on the LS1 5.7) is a protruding rectangular piece of the block casting. This casting must be removed before you tighten up the header or you will squash the primary tube. I used a short blade on a sawzall and sliced off about 1/4-1/2 inch of material. Since my block is aluminum it cut like a hot knife through butter. Again this might be a moot issue for you but check it out before you tighten up the headers. And yes they ARE expensive but they are well made and the fit is very good if they send you the correct ones! Danno74Z Yes, the blocks are externally the same. I'm aware of the interference, and it will be dealt with accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phalanx83 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Awesome build. Subsribed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Not much to update. Drilled and tapped the block for the F body alternator. Got some stuff via mail............. Clutch matster and SANDERSON HEADERS! OMG! they don't fit worth a sheeeeit with my oil pan. I have to move my oil pressure sender to behind the intake, cause it doesn't fit by the filter. Edited March 13, 2011 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 SunnyZ-this is Rebekah's dad, Keith. Has warmed up considerably here in Alabama. You and I are at about the same point on our builds. Here are some problems I'm having and some parts I've stumbled across. With the T56 shifter centered in the shifter hole, my driver's side JTR header has a millimeter clearance with the back of the JCI mount. May put the angle grinder to that unless someone has a better idea. The LS2 GTO alternator is sitting on the steering rack adjustment housing after I cut the snot out of the Datsun engine mount to get it to clear back there. Does your alternator clear everything with the LS1 alt bracket and alternator? If not, then I will take my angle grinder to the LS2 alternator and the rack, but that makes it harder for me to sell the GTO alt if I bail on it. For top-mounting the oil-pressure sender, I just found the correct adapter in the newest Speedwaymotors catalogue: 16mX1.5 male with a 1/8npt female. The Datsun sender is some crazy japaneze 1.0m pitch pipe thread. But I just got a reply from a guy who threaded the Datsun sender into 1/8 npt 5 years ago and it hasn't leaked, so that is my plan as well. Got to mock up my fuel tank, test fit my RT mount then pull motor/trans out to run hard fuel lines. Waiting to place last big orders until I have everything spec'd out - shipping costs for parts are really driving up costs: $10 part + $10 shipping = $20! What engine harness/ECU company do you plan to use? Just subscribed to your thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 SunnyZ-this is Rebekah's dad, Keith. Has warmed up considerably here in Alabama. You and I are at about the same point on our builds. Here are some problems I'm having and some parts I've stumbled across. With the T56 shifter centered in the shifter hole, my driver's side JTR header has a millimeter clearance with the back of the JCI mount. May put the angle grinder to that unless someone has a better idea. The LS2 GTO alternator is sitting on the steering rack adjustment housing after I cut the snot out of the Datsun engine mount to get it to clear back there. Does your alternator clear everything with the LS1 alt bracket and alternator? If not, then I will take my angle grinder to the LS2 alternator and the rack, but that makes it harder for me to sell the GTO alt if I bail on it. For top-mounting the oil-pressure sender, I just found the correct adapter in the newest Speedwaymotors catalogue: 16mX1.5 male with a 1/8npt female. The Datsun sender is some crazy japaneze 1.0m pitch pipe thread. But I just got a reply from a guy who threaded the Datsun sender into 1/8 npt 5 years ago and it hasn't leaked, so that is my plan as well. Got to mock up my fuel tank, test fit my RT mount then pull motor/trans out to run hard fuel lines. Waiting to place last big orders until I have everything spec'd out - shipping costs for parts are really driving up costs: $10 part + $10 shipping = $20! What engine harness/ECU company do you plan to use? Just subscribed to your thread. I'm using a "chevythunder" harness / and a 00 truck pcm. Yes my LS1 alternator clears with some trimming of the plastic on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Sunny Z What are you guys doing for the A/C vacumm tank and magnet valves? I see a lot of you are getting rid of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 My 240z never had A/C, but in July I wish it did. They don't like it at the drag strip because it drips water on the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 (edited) It's been a while, Update Time! I've been pretty busy with a recent quad purchase (rebuild) so it's kept me from this for the last week or so. I did get the engine back in, with the clutch on it, FOR GOOD! I'm actually going to use an LS7 clutch due to some issues i was having with the centerforce. More on that later. Note the pretty crinkle valve covers and the fuel line thats hooked up! I ran to the hardware store and picked up some line clamps, and was able to make the fuel and brake lines look almost respectable See those gaping holes in the floor? Thats where the JTR or JCI tranny x member is supposed to be. *facepalm* Then you see my mount on the frame rail. I decided to run my wires inside the inner fender instead of through a frame rail. This is for convenience and my own sanity. I had to extend all the wires (solder and heat shrink) so they would be long enough to travel the added distance. I still need to take them to the drivers side also. All this was acquired at the Home Depot for around $20 I also had a ground strap in that harness, and conveniently enough there was a nut right where i needed it. So i scuffed it and viola! Thats all for now. More to come shortly (hopefully) Edited April 18, 2011 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 (edited) Sunny Z, I looked at the picture that shows the holes to your floorboard. I "thought" that john's setup attaches to the side of the frame rails and depending on the year of the Z it uses different size brackets. I have the JTR setup and it looks exactly what you got there were it drills holes in the floor. I'm going a different route with the JTR setup and modifying that transmission crossmember. A quick question. Can you measure the amount of room there is between the harmonic damper and the radiator? THANKS>>> Danno74Z Edited April 18, 2011 by Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 Sunny Z, I looked at the picture that shows the holes to your floorboard. I "thought" that john's setup attaches to the side of the frame rails and depending on the year of the Z it uses different size brackets. I have the JTR setup and it looks exactly what you got there were it drills holes in the floor. I'm going a different route with the JTR setup and modifying that transmission crossmember. A quick question. Can you measure the amount of room there is between the harmonic damper and the radiator? THANKS>>> Danno74Z You're correct. This car had JTR kit in it when I bought it. None the less, the 240z x member (JCI) mounts the same way. Either is a complete joke IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 I have to agree so I'm building my own too. Any chance you can take a quick measurement for a K-State Alumni Thanks. Your car is coming out really well! Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 I have to agree so I'm building my own too. Any chance you can take a quick measurement for a K-State Alumni Thanks. Your car is coming out really well! Danno74Z Yeah, no problem. I'll take pictures and make a post about it, since its out of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Thanks Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 I haven't forgotten about you Danno. I'll get some pictures of that x member before i put it back in today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunLSX Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Any Update been following this thread since I purchased my 280Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 I apologize for the slow nature of this build. Its out of my control at the moment, as my car is still with the builder for the LT headers that we are doing a group buy on. I hope to have it back soon........ until then, I guess ill keep looking at the parts pile in my shop lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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