RebekahsZ Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Car is still at fabricators to have fatigued sheet metal at the lower hinge repaired. His mom just died so it may be a while. The garage is coming along with doors hung and interior painted. It is bricked about 1/3 of the way up. Next is to get the gas in and install the heater, house fan, lights, etc. Worked on my landspeed wheels and tires today. Almost got that knocked out but one of the front 2-piece wheels leaks and needs to be re-siliconed. Hope to finish that before the weekend is over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 You better make sure those are balanced with the covers on....... check out monoprice for some audio and automation to be thrown into the garage. ( I just did a whole home system for the house 6 zones) They have some good on the cheap stuff. I am interested to see how you turn out on the landspeed stuff. I have to go out and buy my splitter materials. I have one figured out I just have to buy the stuff...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Ah, I'm gonna trust them to be fine. I don't intend to try to keep up with which wheel goes on which side or which disc goes on which wheel. That just exceeds my level of interest. I'll let you know if I have one wheel hopping down the track! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Hydraulic clutch just went soft on my truck this morning. Picked up Z from fabricator who rebuilt the door hinge mounts on the drivers door. Looks like the need to daily drive the Z will keep me from starting on winter mods AGAIN until I fix the truck. May 3 keeps getting closer and closer! Why is a 42 year-old car the most reliable of the 4 cars my family owns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Simplicity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NgoZ Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Still issues with the S10? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Simplicity-yeah, but the no heat is getting a little old. Still issues-I dunno if this is related to the swap or if its just because it is an 11 year-old truck. Haven't started going thru it (work, now cold and dark), but it acts like maybe the master cylinder went bad. I wish there was a larger diameter master cyl that would bolt right in(the S10 master cylinder mounts with a quarter-turn flange instead of bolts) (Ive searched and I would have to cut out a section of firewall and weld in new) to be able to mimic the nice stiff pedal that the Z has. The truck has always had a gentle pedal, and it just feels wrong to have a powerplant that can fry the tires from a roll, but the clutch feels very soft and sissy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) Got new slave cyl put in the truck. All went well until part way home and 5 th gear starts whining more than I recall. Smoked the tires a few times cause it does it so well. Then, 3rd gear starts popping into neutral if any significant torque is applied via go pedal. So I've gone from a bad slave to a bad trans. I can't get a break. Maybe if I could keep my foot out of it. I gotta start on the Z NOW. Can't let truck delay me any longer. Plan is to limp it as long as I can and get the Z up on jacks and start getting it ready for ECTA May 3. Crunch time. Edited February 20, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) Got truck back from mechanic who replaced the slave cyl and installed a remote bleeder for me. He also put the cables on my remote battery lugs (required to be able to get or give a jump start since battery is in fenderwell). Saw a drip on the driveshaft prior to departing shop but we blamed that on assembly. About 20 minutes into trip home (2hours) 5 th gear seems to be whining (naah, its just my imagination, this has always been a noisy trans) but as i pull into my town and leave a stop sign and shift into 3rd, it pops right back into neutral (oh, shit!). Get home late, park it, go to bed. Next morning, gears 1-3 are whining. Took truck to get trans oil topped up-it was EMPTY! Filled it with gear oil and it quieted down and stayed in 3rd gear. Dropped driveshaft today and has a worn and grooved slip yoke. Looks like somebody took a wire brush to it across the grooves. Over the past 2 years, three guys have worked on this driveshaft so no one to pin it on, but damn(!) why didnt somebody say "dude, you need a new yoke."? Ordered a forged yoke and a non-greaseable spicer conversion u-joint. Looks like another week awaiting parts. Hopefully trans isn't ruined. Can't wait to get my lift and welder. I swear I'm not letting anybody touch my stuff after that. Wife is pissed cause it is like Siberia outside and I put her van out AGAIN! Edited February 22, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) Ok, truck is back together, no longer leaking trans oil and full of oil again, it looks like the trans is fine. I even fixed the heater, so I'm golden for the moment on the truck. So attention goes to the Z for a last minute thrash to get my winter list done before May 1. Doesn't help that I have a wicked cold. Put Z up in the air and dropped the gas tank. Installed new metal battery box with 3/8" bolts passing thru the "frame" per NHRA rule book. Box still needs vent hose located and cables redone. Found location for 10# fire suppression bottle (damn it is big! And heavy!). Gonna go borrow a buddy's NO2 bottle tomorrow to see if I can leave room for that future mod. Planned out location of master power switch and fire exstinguisher handle. Need to make a bracket to locate them both. Hoping to finish fire system and electrical mods before April 1 in order to leave all of April for doing the bell housing swap. Got on the scale, and since Nov1 Ive lost 10#. 20 more to go. Still wont make up for that fire system! Edited March 9, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) The Firefox 10# bottle is mounted with the brackets that came with it plus some backing plates that I cut and drilled from some flat stock so that the bolts are less likely to rip thru the flat sheet metal should I ever have a nasty upside-down off-track excursion. Due to the stock gas tank and spare tire well, the package tray was the only viable location for mounting it, since the big flat area on the right is reserved for the battery box. In the photo you can see the vent tube for the "sealed" battery box that is to come next. I have made big backing plates for the battery box mounting bolts since the same issue applies here with the battery being secured only to the flat sheet metal floor. I did manage to position the battery box such that one of the bolts passes thru a "frame rail," which on reality is only a box section of sheet metal in the unibody. Sorry, it looks like the photos are sideways coming off my cell phone. Made bracket for fire suppression handle and master power shutoff. This bracket will go between my seat and the trans tunnel river nutter to the tunnel. Edited March 16, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98blackbell Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Looks good! Progress seems 2 forward 1 back. At least it's moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Yeah, you got that right! It sucked to pull the seats to start running the sprinkler lines. I just got those damn seats in!! Re-doing things is the worst! I did my battery relocate 20 years ago to SCCA rules-now that Im under a different rule book, lots of things have to change. And my seatbelts age-out in June! Edited March 16, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
We Bad Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Attaboy! on the 10#s. In my experience the driver's seat is the hardest place to remove weight from these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Battery box in. Driver's emergency panel in with cable and switch mounted. Hoping to get cables made up on Thursday. Hoping to be done with the shiny side a week from today. Sorry photos are sideways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Hoping to have the wiring finished today (man, my hands are sore)! Anybody got a suggestion on how to attach a "Remove Before Flight" tag to a tiny cotter pin? I'm thinking about a tiny spot weld.... Edited April 5, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) Man, Im pooped! Electrical mods are finished. The cutoff switches work. I need to pick up a grounding strap for the fuel tank and I can put the rear tires on and set her on the ground, get some fuel in the tank and make sure it still runs. Then I gotta make the sprinkler lines and get the seats in. I should be ready for next weekend and the bellhousing swap. That stock fuel tank is a bitch to install-why oh why did I not install a cell? My filler tube attachment to the tank always seems so borderline-but it has never leaked. Hope this time follows that record. Edited April 6, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) Show you some of the weird landspeed things. Battery power cables to go from the positive post thru a rear NHRA switch near the license plate to another switch beside the driver to the firewall with a bulkhead connector. Got these made up at the local heavy truck supply shop. Inertia switch with a (probably incomparable video file) that shows how it works. Then a weather pack-connected wire for the fuel pump. The inertia switch is in-line with the fuel pump signal wire from the ECU to the fuel pump relay. Got the fuel tank grounding strap done and the wheel mounted. Glad to be done with that evil fuel tank. Gonna put some gas in it tonight and see if it will run, then test this crazy electrical system out. trim.ZB92hW.MOV Edited April 7, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 (edited) Tried to start car tonight and had a dead battery. Trickle charger on it overnight. Got the numbers on the windows. Edited April 8, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 After trickle charger overnight, the starter turns but the fuel pump isn't priming (one advantage to a noisy fuel pump-makes trouble shooting easy)! Hoping to start finding my wiring screw up tomorrow night. Picking up my trailer which just got brakes installed on the second axle and new tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.