S130Z Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Hey guys. So after getting my car back from paint jail and the installation of an Isky Racing turbo cam, I have started tuning. Since I do not have a dyno available in my budget, street tuning is all I have. I know where to tune my fuel maps into, but I am a little unsure about where to go with my Spark map. Here is my setup: Rebuilt L28ET with stock internals 7.4:1 compression. Garret T3/T4 GT30 .70a/r compressor .63a/r turbine w/ intercooler MSII 3.57 controlling fuel and spark off stock dizzy 440cc injectors Isky Racing cam 490/276 intake 480/268 exhaust w/ 112* lobe center Total Ign. advance @ 15psi is 21.4* @ 11.5 AFR and intake temps around 77-80* My ZX pulls really hard up to about 5k and then the power starts falling off pretty fast. My questions are, can I use more timing to get more top end power? or is my stock intake really holding me back above 5k? P.S. - I do not have a knock sensor, and I should probably get one...I know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Total Ign. advance @ 15psi is 21.4* @ 11.5 AFR and intake temps around 77-80* At what RPM? You can get much leaner as you get closer to redline also. You should be seeing your most rich AFRs at TQ peak and get leaner from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted October 28, 2010 Author Share Posted October 28, 2010 That is from about 3500 RPM all the way mapped to 7000. I'm wondering how much safe yet effective timing the L28ET can take? And would 12.0 AFR a good spot to tune to gradually after peak torque? I am running 93 oct BTW. Now in my mind, timing advance should gradually increase all the way to redline. I think this because the engine is spinning faster and faster, there for combustion should happen sooner so the flame front would hit the piston at the right time. Am I wrong for thinking this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 my timing is locked at 35. any less and it has no balls. I locked it at 20 and I though there was a banana in my tailpipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 (edited) Timing advance is usually all in by ~3500 rpm. Then you start retarding based on boost. Some will say 1 degree less advance per lb. of boost and some say a bit more. You don't mention having a wideband O2 sensor. If you have one, what's the A/F ratio when it starts to fall on it's face? Why aren't you posting this in the Megasqurt forum? Edited November 24, 2010 by Brad-ManQ45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted November 25, 2010 Author Share Posted November 25, 2010 I'm not posting in the MegaSquirt section because it does not matter what stand alone system I am using to get a proper tune. And funny you should ask about the wideband. Yes, I have one. And above 5800 rpms has been extremely rich....as in 9.2:1 rich. I have been tuning this out and she is pulling really nice up to 7000rpms now. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) That is from about 3500 RPM all the way mapped to 7000. I'm wondering how much safe yet effective timing the L28ET can take? And would 12.0 AFR a good spot to tune to gradually after peak torque? I am running 93 oct BTW. Now in my mind, timing advance should gradually increase all the way to redline. I think this because the engine is spinning faster and faster, there for combustion should happen sooner so the flame front would hit the piston at the right time. Am I wrong for thinking this way? I've found this practice to work well - as others have said retard the timing as boost comes up, but then you can add a degree or two per 1k rpm from the torque peak to redline. Start with something conservative ans see how it works for you. Here's pretty much what mine looks like - ignore the hp and torque numbers, this was taken from a third gear on-road pull, and is not an "official" dyno number... Edited November 25, 2010 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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