Mikelly Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 Caution should seriously be given to these coatings as well... Although I've had SOME success with POR15, it isn't the be-all, end-all for rust fighting... Quite frankly, I'm not impressed with it. I can't speak about Zebart, but I suspect it isn't as good as its sales pitches either. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240hybrid Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 I agree with tomahawk Z on the issue....temperature changes and differences will cause the metal to sweat. And being that foam has large amounts of tiny air bubbles in it, you have the 2 ingredients for rust. I would probalbely just use a dyno-mat of something like they use for a loud sound systems/bump in the trunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 well i was thinking of maybe putting this stuff in a couple spots that could be coated prior to the foam and where the foam could easily be removed from. the place im going to do initially is the rear strut towers where there is an open area behind the bolts, im doing it mostly to just fill that space, and im going to put it in after i paint and under the cutom carpeting to give it a solid feel underneath there. -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helldrives Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 All right I have been successfully scared away from this product. Guess I will rely completely on sub frame strengthening. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sector Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 Guys, I am no expert, but I am in the process of converting my Z to a 250 GTO. To do this with John Washington's kit you have to use a adhesive foam he sells so that the rear tub bonds to the uni-body. I am pretty sure that what he is recommending is a marine grade closed cell foam. This foam bonds directly to the paint/metal of the car. It is recommended that the area be painted to help fight rust. These cars have been around for several years and I have yet to hear of one rusting out because of moisture trapped in the foam. I know that the yachting industry uses foam to make fiberglass more rigid on boats. Boatbum works in the industry and could probably recommend some of the marine grade foams. One note of caution though is that it is usually recommended to have drain holes in the lowest part of the pannel just in case. Just my 2 cents hope they help. By the way, on my car I am reinforcing with steel not foam. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 1, 2003 Share Posted March 1, 2003 I know Dyna-mat used to make a spray on version of their legendary sound deadening material that looked a lot like that rubber under coating stuff. It sound to me that TKR514 was only looking for a way make his car quieter, in that case using Dyna-Mat's spray seems a golden way to go. One problem thoguh, its pricey, if memory serves, about $10-15 a can (20oz I think) Any how, good luck, and let us know what you end up trying and how it turns out, I definitely understand the desire to quiet the interior of these cars down. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 1, 2003 Share Posted March 1, 2003 What about the Dynamat sheet stuff? Will moisture get under it and promote rust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 2, 2003 Share Posted March 2, 2003 Guys, supposedly some of the new cars being produced have this structural foam in them from the factory. The foam used in the Sport Compact article was the foam that was designed for use by bodyshops for the purpose of repairing those types of cars. There obviously must be foam for this kind of purpose that's "safe". BTW - the Dynamat spray in the can SUX. It's got such high pressure in the can the crap goes EVERYWHERE when you shoot it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaconsultants Posted March 22, 2004 Share Posted March 22, 2004 To let everyone know. I have used this type of product along with a variety of products that you have to mix and create the same foam as foam in a can. Here are some of the applications that I and others have used it on. Cars, boats, planes, and houses. I myself used it with a 280Z that I flared using fiberglass. The answer is it does not create additional rust. I did it back in the mid 80's and checked with the guy that bought the Z today and he said the car is still perfect with no rust. Even the area that was hit in an accident about two years ago he had fixed and they put foam in a can back in that area again. He did mention that based upon the policeman at the accident that the foam in the rear quarter area and sills helped reduce that impact he took in the accident. When I added the foam in the 80's it was to help fill in areas that always made the car sound so hollow when driving on cement cracked highways. The foam reduced the road noices and helped improve the sound of the stereo, especially the bass quality. Also for those of you that did not know that many of the trailer homes roofs are held in place with a mixed and sprayed on foam in a can chemical. This works to glue down the roof. I have gone to one of the plants and actually seen how they do the construction of these. Sorry to burst the rust bubble but the foam in the can will not add or cause it to rust. All-weld boats, I believe is the company makes AL and steel welded boats (like John boats). Guess what they use to fill in areas, you bet foam in a can (one big can, lol, actually they mix it too). I know it is hard to accept using this stuff because it seems like such a hack job, but it works and does a good job even for things that it was not made for. Hope this helps Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Washington Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 I'm coming into this thread late, but wanted to get some info out there. I no longer sell the foam because it's easier for the customer to get it locally than it is for me to ship something that might require HAZMAT labeling. The foam I have always used and recommended is Great Stuff, or some such, available at Home Depot, etc. I recommend the "minimal expansion" variety, and caution to avoid blowing panels off your car because even that will expand somewhat. Also you should use caution to avoid getting it on you or your clothing. I don't think it's toxic, but it stains your skin and the stains have to wear off. I have never done any testing to see if it holds water, causes rust, helps mitigate collision damage, etc. However, I was rear ended by a Cadillac once in my old VR and was surprised at the minimal damage compared to the perceived magnitude of the impact. My main reason for posting however, is to let everyone know this foam is of "polyurethane" forumulation. Unlike polystyrene (white or blue) foams which mostly stink when they burn, polyurethane foams (usually yellow) are bad juju when it comes to fire. Someone posted a comment about fire retardant characteristics, but I don't think that's the case. When they burn, urethane foams offgas some rather poisonous vapors, so by all means please avoid welding around the cured foam. Also, the propellants in the cans (sometimes propane) can be flammable, so no smoking while squirting...only after! These foams are pretty common in roofing and construction, which is kind of amazing in light of the associated hazards. You can read more about this problem at http://www.injuryboard.com/view.cfm/Topic=997 Having said all that, I still think the risk is pretty minimal compared to a lot of the stupid stuff people do every day like drunk driving, smoking, eating Krispy Kremes (my favorite), etc. Just be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 24, 2004 Share Posted March 24, 2004 I concur. This was the stuff I used to fill in the area between the rear fiberglass quarters and the OEM exterior sheetmetal. After it had set, I cut it, and sanded it to where it resembled the shape of a factory wheel well. Then I undercoated it. This was 10 years ago, and last year I saw that due to some slight amout of shinkage, some cracks or separation occured. I grabbed the black roofing repair tube (black gooie stuff) and filled in the cracks (matches the undercoating). This stuff really stiffens up the panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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