Luna: The cause of, and solution to, all of my problems

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Haha, yeah....Lets just hope I can get the wheels close to 0 as well.

 

I'm hoping for decent turn in, not ice skating

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Tonight I made some headway.

-Stripped the driver's side suspension out of the car

-Pulled the steering knuckle

-Cleaned and powdercoated said knuckle

-Measured and cut the opening (rough) for the driver side camber plate



















Sneak peak of both sides.





Tomorrow, after work, I will try to smooth out the opening a little, and potentially finish up the Driver's side. Exciting!
 

[tooquick260]

Great work. Keep it up.

 

Did you say you used some body filler on the other side? Seems that would Crack under the stress.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Great work. Keep it up.

 

Did you say you used some body filler on the other side? Seems that would Crack under the stress.

 

Trying to keep the momentum up. Thanks.

 

I totally had those thoughts too, and from the picture I posted, it would appear that there is a lot of filler in there. I over applied, so I knew I had the areas I needed to fill covered. There is maybe only around a pencil leads thickness of filler around the inner perimeter of the cut out, most of which I had to file back off to allow the washers for the allen bolts to fit.........Doh! haha.

 

But yeah, there is soo little filler in there, and even less now than I had before, that I am not concerned. I'm still figuring out if I want to run bolt ins (I will for now but I may eventually buy weld ins)

 

I feel if my strut tower flexes enough to break the filler, I'll probably have more to worry about than just touch up paint.

[tooquick260]

Thanks gives me ideas on my install. Nice touch on the powder coating , u have a small oven.

Edited August 21, 2014 by tooquick260

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

A little more progress. Nothing much. But it puts me in a good spot to work tomorrow.

Getting the fit right.












More to come tomorrow.

[tooquick260]

Hey, what you doing next weekend? Why don't you fly down to Orlando and help me with mine.

 

Looks great! Finish that thing and drive down for Z Nationals!

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Hey, what you doing next weekend? Why don't you fly down to Orlando and help me with mine.

 

Looks great! Finish that thing and drive down for Z Nationals!

 

Haha, pay my airfare and I'd gladly help you out, especially for a chance to check out your EFI wiring.

 

Mentally,  I'm at a point where I don't ever think about the car being driving or "done". I just keep turning bolts, til there are none left to turn.

 

Hopefully one day I may surprise myself. Haha....one day.

 

 

 

 

...A little fiddling this morning. Front camber plates are done.

 

 

 

 

 

I see a 1" front swaybar....and I want it to turn black.

 

 

Looking a little better (Hurrible picture though...)

 

 

New End links vs. Old

 

 

 

I think I'll go for a sail today. More progress probably in the evening.

 

Til then.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Made some pretty decent progress this evening. Spent a couple hours, and leisurely pulled the entire rear end out of the car.

The rear end (Still the original $hit-tastic clunky r180) was most certainly the weakest link in my system.

Now I've got a blank canvas to work from. Definitely a milestone.

I hated looking at that garbage in there.













It's going to look sooo much better when I put all my goodies back in there.

I still need to buy camber plates for the rear, which I may order this evening, and then I start focusing on brakes, and a limited slip differential. I'm currently eyeing an OS Giken Super Lock R200. *Droooools*


Tomorrow or the next day I am expecting the first stages of my brake upgrade (1" wilwood master cylinder, and an adjustable proportioning valve)

Also expected this week is the majority of my EDIS parts.

 

I'm making progress on all fronts! Er....at least trying to.
 

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

The start of my brake stuff came today.

 

 

Now I am trying to plan out my new braking system.

 

I'm actually going to pull my motor out one more time, for a few different reasons, but that will make this as easy as possible.

 

My car's production date is 1/73, so I'm pretty sure my braking system is different than the earlier cars. And being that it's a January car, I don't know if everything transitioned to my car, or if it still has 72 parts..That's my main reason for being so unsure....(please correct me if I am wrong)

 

After reading through all of the brake upgrade threads, I've decided that there are WAAAY TOO FEW pictures of completed proportioning valve installs. So once I figure this stuff out, I'm going to diagram, and spell it out for anyone else in the future.

 

But, I THINK I may have figured it out(?)

 

Here's my logic....again.... correct me if I am wrong.

 

 

So here is a picture of the stock 7/8" master cylinder, and the "distribution block"

 

 

From what I understand, the line closest to the firewall (on the master cylinder) controls the front brakes; the one closest to the camera is the rear brakes, (same as the new Wilwood)

 

I am under the impression that the distribution block can stay, and I can connect the master cylinder to the existing hard lines, if I utilize adapters, or the OEM 72-73 7/8" Master Cylinder fittings.

 

The next step would be the proportioning valve. My research tells me that I must connect the prop valve to the REAR brakes, somewhere inline.

 

This is a picture of what I believe to be the proportioning valve, mounted on the firewall (the upper most section of the block with the "F"s).

 

 

That is where I believe I bypass, and hook into the adjustable prop valve instead. (or....if that is correct, I could drill out the OEM prop valve, and then leave it hooked up and add the prop valve in the cockpit. Right?)

 

So at first, I thought that would be it, but then I started questioning myself in regards to the last junction for the rear brakes.

 

This guy.

 

 

And another view

 

 

I believe I read somewhere that people would drill these out too? But that's one of the things I honestly don't know. So any feedback would be welcomed with open arms.

 

Is my understanding of the braking system correct?

 

I'm entirely self taught, and like everything else on this car, it is my first attempt at major aftermarket brake stuff, so I am a total novice. But I want to learn.

 

I really appreciate the support.

Edited September 7, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[RebekahsZ]

You just need to replace the proportion valve either with some sort of distribution block or remove the proportioning parts from the prop valve. The t-fitting in back doesn't require modification.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Okay, so it would seem that I am on the right track.

 

At this point in time, I am thinking about removing the OEM proportioning valve parts, reconnect the lines, then add the Wilwood adjustable somewhere further down the line, most likely in the cockpit somewhere.

 

Glad to know I don't have to drill out that last fitting, logically it didn't make sense to me, but then again lots of things don't

 

 

Thanks for the input!

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Okay looks like we lost some posts with the site outage.

 

Luckily I have a few running build threads from my car.

 

Here are the threads to fill in the gaps, bringing it up to current.

 

 

This is the stuff that gets me going!

So I have spent these past few days contemplating how I want to modify my braking system. Specifically the lines.

The goal: Remove the OEM proportioning valve and plumb in an adjustable somewhere in the cockpit, with ease of use, troubleshooting and maintenance in mind. The new valve will go in the REAR brake line.

After a few failed ideas, I think I have come up with a real winner.

So here's what I plan to do...


I removed the stock proportioning valve, which was mounted on the firewall at around the 7 o'clock position to the brake vacuum booster.






I then fit the OEM lines together with brake line flared unions (Factory fittings are M10x1.00 - inverted flare)



Perspective



Also...dropped my transmission out. Lots of room to work. The car hasn't been this stripped of drivetrain since the assembly line (1/73)







Where I have planned to install the proportioning valve is the type of stuff that makes me, a 25 year old dude, giggle.



This is my center console.

As you can kind of see, it's pretty decent. (would make a good plug for molding someday)





However I'm left with these unsightly holes to deal with.






So I'm going to turn a negative into a positive. I intend on hiding the proportioning valve (body) here, while trimming the center console (in said offending area) to allow the top of the valve to poke up through the console.



Locating it between the ashtray (which would remain functioning, for spare change/toll purposes) and the shifter.

The hole will be large enough to allow the console to remain easily removable, and would give it a really clean look. If necessary I can make a trim ring out of carbon, or glass, to really finish up the opening, as well.

Yay! for thinking it over!



I have to run into town later this afternoon to run some errands, but upon my return I will tear right into the install. I'm hoping to have it at least mocked up tonight.

Wish me luck.









Oh yeah, I changed the leaky pan gasket as well...But who cares about that?

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Next post: (lost due to outage)

 

Okay.

Instead of using a bunch of unions, I just decided to remake the rear portion of the line.

I have made it to the proportioning valve. I really like the placement. I'm still far from done, but I'm off to a good start.





Here are some pictures to make sense of what I did. A little explanation too..





Cut the OEM piece at the approximate place for the the proportioning valve. The ashtray. And removed it from the car.




I then used that as a template and made my own line. With appropriate changes.








Flared with fresh M10x1.00 fittings.













So far so good. But so much more to do as well.

Stay tuned.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Continued:

 

Finished the majority of the new line plumbing.

Rears are just about there. Fitment just needs a little bit of tweaking.



Also I trimmed the console.

Very pleased with how it came out. Very clean.














Haha! Almost doesn't need some finish attention. Almost.  




My face is covered in dirt. Time for a shower.

Proportioning valve is roughly finished. Hooray!

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Some line cleanage. UGH!

 

MUCH better. Much difficult. Much frustration.

Utilized the stock mounting points, and just drilled the rubbers out to accept the 5/16" return. Despite what some of the angles might insinuate, nothing touches.

I still need to mount the prop valve, install some grommets in the brake line holes and that's about it. Lovely.









I have also changed the routing of the return, to exit out the transmission tunnel, like the feed. You'll understand later, however here's a real early idea of the exit.




Okay.. I'm beginning to tire of being under the car. Thankfully not too much more remains.


Had a wonderful sail this evening though. I'd have a video, however the GoPro took a swim....Whoops...RIP.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Cleaned up stuff a bit. Probably can't tell from the pictures though.

More of the same.  







Extra classy.



So after I shortened the routing of the return line I had the 4 brackets that ran along the passenger side frame rail to contend with. Instead of deleting them, I have decided to use those brackets for the body/charging harness. That frees up the old bendy brackets for the EDIS wiring harness, and the extensions needed to my EFI harness. I love it when little things like that work out for you. It's so rare. Cherish these moments.







Also, this is how I am mounting the proportioning valve.

I have to buy the bolt long enough to do it, but here it is explained, and mocked.

Installed a 1/4" rivnut in the top mounting hole location



A couple spacers.





Everything still fits.





How I currently stand. Haha




I'm keeping busy, so I guess I got that going for me...
 

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Some stuff came today.



Adjustable fuel pressure regulator



and some powder. Which I wasted no time coating some random brackets, and the camber plate bolts/washers.

I know...SUPER exciting





Touch up respray of the engine bay.



Removed the Wilwood bottom fitting adapters. Installed the adapters out of the Nabco (1972-1973) 240z master cylinder. Now I can hook into the existing lines.

 

That's good, because I'm pretty tired of making inverted flares at this point. Haha.

 

 

Removed the fittings. Sitting on the vice.



Cleaned up Nissan fittings installed. Accepts: M10x1.00 thread.





There's lots more going on, I'll keep you posted.


More parts are in the mail.

 

Also have a cool composites Datsun project going on in the shop that I work on at lunch. I can taste the sweet sweet carbon.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Wilwood master cylinder was bench bled and installed.  Brake lines just need to be hooked up.

The holes had to be enlarged to fit the booster.






Camber plate bolts all powdercoated..and stuff.




Lots of stuff is still going on in the background....Like EDIS planning, brake stuff, fuel stuff, Sparco seats....etc..

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Not much.

Trying to get a little bit done each night after work.

More powdercoating, and cleaning the water pump cover. No more paint.







totally forgot the timing plate, but yeah, it's gray too.











I'm also struggling to find a blue that closely matches the GM blue of my engine. So I am reviewing different blues to see if anything would work.





And finally...A sneak peak at what will become the master plug used for making replacement (carbon fiber) center consoles. It's a side project I started a couple days ago at work. So carbon consoles baby!



It'll look something like this when finished. (hood plug for a jet ski cowl.)




Perpetually waiting on stuff in the mail.

More to come.