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ford master cylinder / camaro slave / plastic line


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MONDO EDIT below

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Hey guys,

I started this thread asking some questions about this setup. Well I got bored and tackled it head on. So instead of questions, here is my write up on using the F150 master cylinder, F150 plastic clutch line and stock camaro slave in your Z.

 

Installing the master cylinder:

I dont know if its MY Z or if they call came that way, but Lee's instructions on "just drilling 1 hole" was severely understated. You do have to drill a hole, but behind the hole is a bracket (see pic below on how I had to shave the top part) and that bracket makes it hard to bolt the master down. Anyway, 2 hours of grinding and cutting and hammering and drilling later, the master is installed. Maybe my car has more reinforcement in the pedal box area (there was THREE sheets of metal) from a previous owner. I dont know.

 

I will see how long this lasts. The F150 master has a heim setup on the end of the rod, so you do NOT have to use the stock datsun clevis. Rod/thread/clevis issues are thus solved.

15nr9k4.jpg

 

Routing the clutch line:

This took some thought. The clutch plastic hard line is straight and I was afraid it would break. But see the pic below, the rest should be self explanatory!

33kaaf9.jpg

 

This entire setup costs $82 after tax. Im reusing the slave until it melts (it seems fairly new) and I will get the metal one at that time. The Mcleod setup is EASY. I read all the previous posts for HOURS. These pics would have helped me, so I hope it helps someone!!!

 

Thanks

Abe

Edited by revlis240
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I used the same clutch set up on my first 240Z v8 project ten years ago. I too had to redrill the holes for the clutch MC and hit the flange inside. Never had a problem with it. It worked good and is still on the road.

 

Since then McLeod offers a roll pin adaptor (p/n MCL 139026 at Summit) that fits in the Camaro slave that allows the attachment of a -3 braided line.

 

For my second 240z V8 build I used the Tilton 7/8" MC, Mcleod roll pin adaptor and a Camaro slave.

 

Parts numbers:

 

Tilton 7/8" MC TIL-74-875U $80.00

Napa Camaro slave UP37821 $43.98

McLeod roll pin adaptor MCL 139026 $$46.39

Earls 32" -3 ST/90 Clutch Hose EAR6301172 $27.00

Earls -4 FEM swivel EAR 915104 $7.99

Earls -3 to -4 union EAR991902 $4.99

 

Note on the McLeod roll pin adaptor the tube part that slips into the plastic Camaro slave has a diameter that is slightly larger than the hole it fits into. I had to file the wide part of the tube so that the adaptor would complety seat into the roll pin hole on the Camaro slave.

post-178-029436700 1296504469_thumb.jpg

post-178-081934100 1296504523_thumb.jpg

post-178-063471900 1296505225_thumb.jpg

Edited by Miles
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Be sure to route the plastic Ford line away from the exhaust header. See pics of my old build. I think that I flipped the hose around. I found the easiest way to install the hose was to remove the slave attach the hose/roll pin to the slave and then lower the assembly into position and bolt the slave to the bell housing. Makes easier working topside and manage the small roll pin and O ring.

post-178-051420200 1296505972_thumb.jpg

post-178-043728400 1296505987_thumb.jpg

Edited by Miles
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  • 2 months later...

Years ago a member named juju (Lee) discovered this and posted the how to. '01 maybe?

Lost in the archives? I found a metal replacement slave for my T56 w/ T5 bell-camaro slave and has been trouble free for 9 years.

 

Be sure to route the plastic Ford line away from the exhaust header
I used a hair dryer and re shaped it slightly.

Nice to have a few images.

----------------------

 

Ok...I sent this to John in another post, but I thought I would list these part numbers in it's own topic for anyone that my need them. These are the part numbers for the 7/8" clutch master cylinder and hydralic hose that will connect right to the stock Camaro/Trans Am slave cylinders with no modifications. The only thing that has to be done to use this setup, is to knock out the top (master cylinder) mounting stud and drill another hole about 1/4" higher than the (stock) top hole. This isn't hard to do...just set the master cylinder up there, mark the new hole, and drill it. Actually, you will knock both mounting studs out, because the new master cylinder has it's own mounting studs included. But the main thing is there are NO modifications to the slave cylinder, NO fittings or adaptors to track down, and NO hose to be special made. Here are the part numbers...

 

---Master Cylinder Part Numbers---

BrakeWare - 12117

Bendix - 12117

Wagner - F110710

Raybestos - CMA39580

 

---Hydralic Hose Part Number---

Ford Motor Company - E3TZ7A512A

 

I'm not sure about the slave cylinders used with the T56 6-speed, but those of you with the T56 might want to look at one of these master cylinders next time you go to the local parts store to see if they will work for you also. The master cylinder that I listed above uses the "Non-Threaded" hose connection exactly like the slave cylinders used on mid-late '80s Camaros and Trans Ams. The hose that I listed above is long enough to connect the master and slave cylinders. The stock Camaro/Trans Am hose is not long enough. Hope this help some of you guys out.

 

Lee

Edited by John Scott
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Kamikazee

 

Yes the Tilton 7/8 MC fits right onto the stock 240Z studs in the firewall. Just replace the Tilton push rod with the push rod from the 240Z MC so the Tilton MC will connect to the clutch pedal like stock.

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Okay, that's good to know.

 

I am having MAJOR issues with my conversion that I just got back from the shop, they told me it was ready to roll out on Thursday. God, were they wrong.

 

They hadn't bled the clutch (there wasn't even any fluid in it and they were trying to use the stock 5/8" MC), the brakes, and they didn't even bother to plug or block-off the return line. So, now I have a really pretty curbside ornament sitting in the parking lot behind my apartment.

 

After working on it for twelve hours straight in their parking lot trying to figure out how to jury-rig the car to drive home, I think the shop owner realized he'd made a mistake and gave me a rather large Wilwood MC, it's big, 1", for free. It bolted right in. I'm pretty sure the Master Cylinder is no longer the issue, but I still can't get the clutch to fully disengage. I'm using earl's -4 AN braided SS line, a roll-pin adapter on the stock plastic Camaro slave and a -4 to 1/8" adapter with this Wilwood MC, if that helps. And, yes, I clearanced the trans tunnel enough to allow full travel of the fork.

 

Any thoughts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

did you do the part 2 bleed of the slave?

you push IN the fork all the way, open the bleeder, get someone to SLOWLY push the clutch in from the pedal, close the bleeder and repeat.

Once thats done, the fork should see a good amount of travel, ~.75". Did you adjust the rod on the M/C? I had to remove my stopper and have the pedal come up like 2" past the brake pedal to get to a point where the clutch travel is acceptable. The pedal is high as hell, but work-able.

 

If all that is done, are you sure the fork is moving?

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rev: the slave that I have installed right now has no bleed valve, you have to take the slave out of the hole, drop it down and gravity bleed it.

 

My fork is moving, yes. I will try removing the stopper and adjust the pedal out more and see if that works. I will also be getting rid of the slave cylinder I have in favor of the auto zone one.

Edited by kamikaZeS30
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  • 1 year later...

Since then McLeod offers a roll pin adaptor (p/n MCL 139026 at Summit) that fits in the Camaro slave that allows the attachment of a -3 braided line.

 

For my second 240z V8 build I used the Tilton 7/8" MC, Mcleod roll pin adaptor and a Camaro slave.

 

Parts numbers:

 

Tilton 7/8" MC TIL-74-875U $80.00

Napa Camaro slave UP37821 $43.98

McLeod roll pin adaptor MCL 139026 $$46.39

Earls 32" -3 ST/90 Clutch Hose EAR6301172 $27.00

Earls -4 FEM swivel EAR 915104 $7.99

Earls -3 to -4 union EAR991902 $4.99

 

Note on the McLeod roll pin adaptor the tube part that slips into the plastic Camaro slave has a diameter that is slightly larger than the hole it fits into. I had to file the wide part of the tube so that the adaptor would complety seat into the roll pin hole on the Camaro slave.

 

 

Just to update the thread, it looks like there is a cheaper alternative to the McLeod roll pin adpater for the Camaro slave cylinder: rus-640281_w_m.jpg This is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/ and is only $21 and apparently you get 2 of them in a package, sooo that means you can sell one to a friend for $21 and break even on the deal! :P OK, you could sell one for $11 and only be out $10 for a fitting that you would have paid $46.39 for. These fittings fit -3AN hose.

 

Davy

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recommend this master cylinder.

 

454-75-875U $89.25 (Summit prices)

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=23&m=b

 

It is shorter and gives you room to fit the window washer tank.

 

It has the same throw and diameter as this one but just more compact.

454-74-875U $72.28

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=22&m=b

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Josh, I was seeing that you kept your windshield washer bottle/reservoir in the stock location, which is the same thing I am trying to accomplish. I have been looking at the Wilwood Master Cylinders since they apparently have a smaller base and would allow for a larger brake booster from a 280Z or 280Z 2+2 for the brakes. I think Miles was the one who mentioned the Wilwoods for that very purpose, but it is good to know the shorty Tilton will work with the clutch & slave just fine. That pretty much confirms that I will be going to a shorty version of either one in the near future, so thanks very much for posting it!! :2thumbs:

 

Wilwood shorty MC260-10371-lg.jpg

 

Davy

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Josh, I was seeing that you kept your windshield washer bottle/reservoir in the stock location, which is the same thing I am trying to accomplish. I have been looking at the Wilwood Master Cylinders since they apparently have a smaller base and would allow for a larger brake booster from a 280Z or 280Z 2+2 for the brakes. I think Miles was the one who mentioned the Wilwoods for that very purpose, but it is good to know the shorty Tilton will work with the clutch & slave just fine. That pretty much confirms that I will be going to a shorty version of either one in the near future, so thanks very much for posting it!! :2thumbs:

 

Wilwood shorty MC260-10371-lg.jpg

 

Davy

 

No problem. Glad I could help.

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