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73' LT1 240Z Build


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Long story short:

 

Picked this up last year

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but found out that it had been in a rear end accident and welded a new rear on :(

 

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So I ditched that shell and picked this up:

 

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Oh and this:

 

1995 firebird LT1 with a T56

 

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Then I lost my job but sold stuff off of the Firebird to continue with the build.

 

Decided on this color:

 

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Primed:

 

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Started on the engine bay. Did a test spray on the roof to see how many coats it needs:

 

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More to come soon :) ....hopefully. Need to get a job!

Edited by R_3
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That is a really nice color. Very classy.

 

If you don't mind my asking, how much did you score the F-body for? I have been thinking that once my 383 Z is on the road again, the only real modifications I will be looking for down the road is an LT1 T56 trans, LSD for the R200 and some bigger rubber.

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Good score, I got mine for $2,200, kept everything I needed and still sold over $5,400 in parts! It took over a year of selling and shipping and I still have a few pieces kicking around to sell.

Hope to see your Z this summer at ZCCNE events, Nice to have another LT1Z around.

I like to talk to you about paint sometime, I need to have my other turbo Z painted

Greg

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I pulled it from the firebird to try it out. I am removing the spare tire well to make some room. If it works, great. If not, I will just get a fuel cell. So I am not sure yet what it will allow or restrict.

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I put a '94 Z28 steel tank in my Z. couple things to consider. #1 the tank has to go in backwards since the filler on the F body tank is on the opposite side from the Z. #2 and something I did not look at is clearance for your exhaust. My tank sits very close to the rear suspension leaving very little room to get the exhaust in. We managed to make it work but its not ideal. #3 getting the filler to the tank proved to be difficult. I ended up cutting almost all the Z28 filler off and fabricating a new one so I could get the filler hose to line up. If I were going to do all this again I think I would have a custom tank made that would utilize the stock GM fuel pump, I like having the pump in the tank. There are a few picts in my Gallery

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  • 2 weeks later...

In case you aren't aware, before you attempt to install that engine you have to do a few things to it. Pull the LT1 exhaust manifolds, they will not fit. Also the AC unit which is on the bottom of the passenger side will not clear the steering rack so that's got to go. You can get an AC delete pulley to replace it. The PS pump can be gutted, the hose fitting plugged and put back on.

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Careful which AC delete pulley you get, it will hit the frame rail, I ended up replacing the huge pulley and used the smallest Idler pulley I could find to fit the pulley delete mount pulley shaft. Also there is an Power steering delete pulley kit available which I switched to after having problems shredding serpetine belts every 30 miles with my own delete system I fabricated didn't work.

I think I listed the GM part number for the pully somewhere in a thread on this site, if not I can probably find it for you.

Also the power steering part is also listed in a thread on this site as well I think Deja and I discussed it a couple of times, you have to replace one of the bolts that comes with the kit with a good #8 longer bolt.

 

Yes you have to remove the AC, it is right where the JTR mounts want to go. I also mounted the Sanderson headers WITH gaskets! before I dropped the motor in. Now is a good time to mount the EGR block off plates.

A few people have had better luck with the newer 1997-2002 f body plastic gas tanks, I am still running a stock 76 280Z tank and an external pump and filters.

If you are running the stock FPR for the LT1 you will need the GM QwiK Connect to AN fitting adaptors to run standard AN fuel lines, I ran Steel Braided flex hose, other have run new solid lines with short flex at either end.

Outside pumps are noisy and I have tried several with mixed results, I am going to try a third soon as I have fuel starvation at WOT.

Oh, the 75-76 280Z fuel tank is the only one that will fit an early Z, the 77-78 280Z tank will not fit.

 

Also you need to remove the very important knock sensor on the block and plug the hole, coolant will pour out, The Sanderson headers won't clear. I drilled and tapped the flat JTR plate in a location that cleared the steering shaft and screwed in the knock sensor there.

 

Seth, feel free to call me or email me here or through the ZCCNE for any questions.

 

Oh,Yes, please refer your paint guy, I have another in RI I am going to check his work this weekend. Can't have enough paint guys!

Edited by gvincent
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Yep, I did use the PS delete pulley (part # BK-MB31K) from PSC MOTORSPORTS. But the link I had doesn't work anymore. I had to call them to get just that part# so they may still have it. 1-817-270-0102. I had to re-tap the bottom hole in the Camaro accessory bracket to match the 3/8 bolt PSC provided. I think the one GM uses is metric, easy tap if the engine is not in the car.

 

The AC delete pulley I used I got off Ebay, its the one with the small pulley.

 

I moved my knock sensor to the drivers side using an adapter I got from DETAIL ZONE Its only $17 delivered. If I had not already had the JTR mount on the engine I would have done what gvincent did.

Edited by deja
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Wow thanks a lot guys. My goal is to get the engine in to get it out of the paint guys workspace. I have the headers to go on from jtr and they will go on before I attempt to put the engine in.

 

So I need to:

 

Get the AC delete bracket (but can take it off and install the engine and put that in when I get time)

 

I am going to make the egr block off plates

 

Knock sensor relocate and plug hole.

 

 

All I want to do is get the engine into the car so that it can be put back together and transported to my house so that I can finish the work on it in my free time.

 

Greg I most likely will try to get you up to Northborough to do some referencing and comparing when you have time. I dont expect to have it back to my place until May. I picked up a painless wiring kit and had the ecu reprogrammed for the lack of egr equipment. The wiring kit also comes with a lead for a fuel pump and radiator fan.

 

So.... all in all I know I can get the engine in and worry about the little things later on.

 

 

And my paint guys contact info: Mike Figoli 207.239.1641 and let him know I sent ya!

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Seth,

I'll bring the beast up to your place some time in May when your ready so you can check it out.

I had a big winter to do list but didn't get anything done due to lack of work space and a bad back.

The back is better now and the weather is getting warmer...I hope soon

I'm going to try and make the 4/16 inspection charity event at AC imports in NH.

I need to jack the car up and get under to check for a small exhaust leak, change the oil and if I have the time the fuel pump swap out was on my winter to do list. maybe it will cure my WOT starvation problem.

Later I still need to figure out why I can't get my AutoMeter electric speedo to work off the T56 , I have to have a wiring problem, I hate digging into the dash again.

 

Well I have to swap out front spoilers due to the last show mishap last fall, I have a Type III MSA spoiler I need painted gloss black, I'll repair or get the Type II spoiler repaired and put it on the 78Z when I get that car painted late summer/early fall I'm hoping,

I'll give your paint guy a call, Thanks

Greg

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Cool Greg, I hope to make it to the inspection day as well. We will see. I mentioned to my paint guy that he will most likely hear from you soon.

 

Some updates:

 

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Edited by R_3
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  • 1 month later...

ok small update. The body shop guy had some family issues. The car is still primed but the current task is installing the rollbar/cage (8point) and removing the spare tire well to fit the new gas tank. Then paint.... crossing fingers that I will drive this car before the fall

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