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LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread


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Sooooo I just lost 15 minutes of my life reading all 21 pages of this thread... Couple of comments...

 

16 wheel HP on HEADERS alone is what I would have expected. When I had my C5 Corvette this was exactly what we would have expected. We did a header/Z06 Intake/software tune and picked up 40 Wheel HP on an LS1. It's a known compbo, so why anyone would poopoo headers producing anything over 20HP on their own is ridiculous. We would also have expected as others have stated that we'd be upgrading heads/cam/intake/tune later to make the header upgrade really shine.

 

And this next comment is going to piss some of you off, but it's true. $825 is a STEAL for good quality custom headers. Bitching about the price per performance gained is sad, but seems to be the norm here on HybridZ.

 

I'm doing my research right now and I'm trying to decide what route to go for headers on my LS1/heads/cam/ARE drysump build. I'd love to get a pair of these for my little 1976 280Z, but I don't want to wait a year, and I don't want to deal with unresponsive shops. So was this just a "You guys didn't meet the full agreed to group buy order of 20, so I'm not shipping the gaskets" or has this guy become a shop to deal with in these economucally tough times?

 

Regardless, If anyone with a set isn't planning to use them now wants to unload them, Im' in the market for a set of heads. Feel free to contanct me.

 

Mike

I could have not put it any better myself. After you pay $1600 for a set of Z06 headers these were actually cheap, the only drama was the lack of response and how long it took.

I love this website, there is ton of valuable information and a lot of good people that go out of their way to help you. On the other hand there are also alot of bottom feeders that want power but don't want to spend any money. I'm a firm believer of the old saying "you get what you pay for".

Edited by alainburon
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Hello Keith,

 

Unfortunately my project its at a standstill. I'm waiting on the body shop now. They do restoration as fill in work when they are slow that's whay it's taking so long. I'm hoping to go by there after Thanksgiving and start putting pressure on them. They had my car long enough. I will post updates as soon as I have some progress.

I have been following you progress and seen your videos of your car at the track, awesome car sir. Happy Holidays.

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You know it's actually not "that" expensive in the scheme of things. On my 383 stroker we were limited to using 1 5/8th block hugger headers, and we all know those things joke the hell out of a motor. How much power was I leaving on the table because I couldn't get a properly fitting long tube header with the right ground clearance for my road racecar? Probably a lot. So you have to put it into perspective.

 

Robert, the guy who has done 3 V8 Datsun full exhaust systems for me in the past said he could knock out a complete full custom set of 1 3/4 headers for my car if I was willing to leave the car for 2 weeks. He said he'd fit the work in between exhaust jobs and fishing and would cap the cost at $2000. I was going to do this come spring, but then decided to buy these headers and have the LS1 shortblock I have rebuilt so I can convert over to the gen3 platform and lose 100 pounds off the platform. $2K for proper fitting one off custom headers that will clear my bellhousing, my steering linkage, my oil pan and my framerails, all while making more hp and torque? What a bargain.

 

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
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But how long is long enough? Easy boys, I'm talking about headers....

Honestly, what length should we be builing for? I though 36" was the goal, but how the heck do you install those? Seems like ya gotta compromise at some point to allow fitment. The long tubes 1tuffz got made were 24". The Kooks that rags' friend had made were 29". Thoughts?

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But how long is long enough? Easy boys, I'm talking about headers....

Honestly, what length should we be builing for? I though 36" was the goal, but how the heck do you install those? Seems like ya gotta compromise at some point to allow fitment. The long tubes 1tuffz got made were 24". The Kooks that rags' friend had made were 29". Thoughts?

 

Keith - this is a ~400 hp engine we're talking here, in "hobby" cars. I'd only be worried about tube length if you were trying to squeeze every last pony out of the car. I say build whatever fits!

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That's kind of where I am. I sold off my long tubes after reading the write ups from guys who installed them (and went thru a lot of pain to do it). Then it took me about 20 minutes to install my JTR "headers." Easy serviceability has become a consideration for everything. Listening to opposing points of view.

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I run a set of 1 5/8" long tubes with 2.5" collectors on my 240Z, I did it because my 385 sbc is set up for racing with some cruising in between. I ran Sanderson block huggers and they sucked, lost power and they burnt up aluminum flange gaskets! The primaries were just too short and got too hot!

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I am going to be needing a set built 1.7/8" by 3 or 3.5" long tubes for my L76 6 liter with L92 heads. I may have a hook up on them as a friend of a friend builds custom exhaust/headers...fingers crossed!

Edited by Zfan1
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There are some very talented and creative people on this site. They are also some of the worst at helping you deraille your plans, by showing you how you should do it. Don't get wrapped up in it. You'll end up being like me and Pete Paraska with 10 years of your life gone and very "little" driving of said car.

 

 

That's kind of where I am. I sold off my long tubes after reading the write ups from guys who installed them (and went thru a lot of pain to do it). Then it took me about 20 minutes to install my JTR "headers." Easy serviceability has become a consideration for everything. Listening to opposing points of view.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys,

 

Just spent an hour reading the posts in detail.  I'm finally decided to complete my LS2 swap in a 280z with minor bolt-ons: cam, intake, TB, and a good "reliable" tune for the street.  This is a great thread and hated to hear about the problems toward the end with Blake.  I have an honest question to the guys that purchased the headers.  With everything that y'all (I from the south) gone through, would you consider trying to work with Blake to see if he is willing to build a set for your car?  Or would you just go with a set of shorties and be done with it?  If shorties, does anyone know the exact model that is a bolt-in for the John's Cars mount kit? 

 

Also for the LTs did anyone have A/C on their car and if the headers cleared the compressor?  I remember a member stating had to move/mod some A/C lines?

 

Thank you,

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You've begun a great start by simply reading the thread-thank you. I'll chime in with my 2 cents worth. As you know I started the thread and did my best to coordinate and keep it moving along-with that said it was frustrating as many aspects were out of my control. I can say the end results, measured with a bang for buck meter, are [also my opinion] worth it.

 

If I had a do-over and was beginning my LS-x swap I would do it again-albeit a slightly different outcome as I posted in #400 [see below]

 

If we could have a do over then I'd personally do the following;

 

Have the oxy sensors bungs shipped [but not installed] then, drill holes & weld in best position/access/clearance for my z

delete the v-band connector on headers

shorten or angle the collectors [primarily the right side] more toward the tranny

weld a 3" to 2.5" transition directly to the shortened collector and v-band at the 2.5 end [better clearance in the trans tunnel]

sell my entire old 304ss exhaust and go aluminum after the 2 to 1 junction using a b-v-band connector [losing a few pounds]

Edited by 1 tuff z
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Screen name "rags" had a pretty good experience with kooks headers for a custom long tube fabrication.  But, he's located in new jersey.  That car got flooded in Sandy, so check with him in case he is parting out.  I personally wouldn't fool with Blake any more.  I really appreciate what 1tuffz got done, and Blake is an artist-his headers are beautiful.  But, with all artists you have to put up with more idiosyncracies than I'm usually willing to tolerate-like selective phone answering and going dark-ops for months at a time.  Blake just kind of went "Modern Motorsports" on us in the middle of the project.  The Sanderson headers sold thru JTR are just super easy to install, but the angle on the collector is a little difficult to deal with (just hard to get a wrench on the collector bolts).  Otherwise, there are zero fitment issues so long as you remove the required aluminum "bosses" from your engine before you drop it in and you are careful locating your oil pressure sender.  If you want new shorties, I really recommend buying from JTR directly.  He is easy to deal with, provides responsive customer support, and we want to keep him in business. I have his ceramic headers and they are great.  That being said, over the next few months, I plan to order a set from JTR that is bare metal or painted.  I'm gonna get a v-band flange welded on them instead of the 3-bolt collector, then have them ceramic-ed.  My current JTR headers will then be available for sale very lightly used sometime before spring.  PM me if you decide you want them before I put them in the classifieds.  I haven't yet thought about how I'd price them.  I don't know anything about the JCI headers-they may be even better than the ones I have.  I dare you to copy wfritts911's system, but add stacks like the "Little Red Wagon!"  IMO:  these cars are so fast right out of the box (even un-modified),that unless you are competing for a national championship, it really doesn't matter what headers you strap on them for that last 1-2 percent of power.

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