ZT-R Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 hey guys, after reading 9000 pages of stuff i am giving up and posting. i have a 240z with ground control coilovers and tokico 3125 struts, sectioned. i am not using the camber plates. the top hat supplied (techno toy tuning at least) doesn't fit into the bearing. i was wondering what you guys are doing. i guess i could take the stock upper spring perch and modify it in some way, but i figured i would ask 1st. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Check out this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98897-step-by-step-coilover-conversion/ See how he does his upper spring perch setup (step 30+), I think it should work for you as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 well the ground control tophats are a little bit different. they have the sloping top with a little nipple if you will, like the stock perch, but the diameter of the nipple is bigger than the stock perch. i was looking at it and i think i can put it in my lathe and turn it to match the oem bearing diameter, then i can cut the isolator thickness to whatever i need to or put a shim under (actually on top) of the bearing. if that all makes sense.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 oem perch O.D. diameter= 1.09" oem perch I.D diameter= 1" wall thickness would be .09" ground controlO.D= 1.249" ground control I.D=.891" wall thickness would be .358" if i mill down the aluminum it will work yeilding a .199 wall thickiness. i would think that would be enough. what do you guys think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack_280Z Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) I have a 280Z '78. I don't know if you can make, as mine, the same modification with your "groud control kit" and your Tokico 3125. Anyway, I show you my installation: In my case ( for 280Z '78) I used Tokico TOBZ3099 (For Toyota MR2 1½" lower). The two only things than I made are: Grind a larger "D" hole in the "cap" and grind my rod thread for have a "D". I used two washers to fit in the groove on rod. Put the bering and the cap. Screw the nut. And all stays toghether at the top of the rod. You can see groove smaller than the rod. The "D" on the rod thread: The two washers. The inside hole of the washers are smaller than the rod and fit on the groove. Bering and the cap (We can see the "D" hole). Put cap and bering on the rod: Fit well and don't go lower on the rod: Scew the nut and all stays toghether at the top of the rod (Do not tighten the nut and use the lock nut): At the end, the sping push the "ground control cap" on the washer. I hope it can help you for do not modify your "ground control cap". Jack! _______________________ Edited April 22, 2011 by Jack_280Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 ok, broke out the lathe on the suspension and i am glad i did, turned out great. more pics to come. these are the lower perches that come with the ground control coilovers.... they made me laugh and reminded me of my hondas weaponR suspension... so giving the middle finger to that i made these. hammer tight tolerances turned out perfect i must say then i modified the top hats to fit inside the bearing like the oem perch... after that i i cut a little bit of the rubber on the isolator and put it together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Yeah when I took out those perches I was like, "What the crap are these?" Looks like you answered your own question. Very well done, I think I'd like to try something similar. Perhaps I'm missing something but in Jack's solution, what keeps the strut centered on the bearing? It seems like it's just sitting on the bottom surface and is free to float around since the bearing ID is significantly larger than the rod that goes through it. In fact the washers look like they are free to float around a bit as well. Mine came like his though where there is significant wall thickness on the hats and two giant washers for each so I'm assuming this is what TTT proposes for installation. Is everything just supposed to be centered by the D hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 i would assume, i do have to say i like what i did over that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Wow! You guys really made something complex out of something very simple. Just... wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 As gratuitous as that comment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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