cygnusx1 Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 That sucks that they gray out the TW when you select EDIS... With Megatune and the old version of firmware that I run, I can adjust the trigger angle fine in the software. Contact DIY Autotune, or Matt Cramer for advice on that issue. A timing light is ESSENTIAL here. Go get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 I have my light ready... now I need to figure out how to bring up the trigger wizard in TunerStudio! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 While I'm at it... someone please confirm that I have my spark plugs correctly connected to my Ford EDIS coil pack: http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a98/SloSilverEX/280zx/mywiring-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 I got a solid 10 degree reading from the timing light. What's my next step? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 I have my light ready... now I need to figure out how to bring up the trigger wizard in TunerStudio! What version of MS are you running ?, I'm using "MS2Extra Serial 310" and Trigger Wizard works Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 I upgraded my firmware to MS2Extra 3.1.1 and can now use the Trigger Wizard. I set it to "10" to match my timing light reading, but my engine isn't performing any different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 I pulled my spark plugs, and they are good and black with soot. I don't think I'm running rich - I think I'm using a good set of Cranking and After Start Enrichment settings - but I'm not sure. Anyone have any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 It turns out that my cranking and afterstart enrichments were... well, rich! Way too rich. I got a GREAT tune file from a friend, and now I can get it to idle at 800RPM, rock solid, with no throttle input at all. When I do give it throttle, it only revs up to 1500RPM or so. Why would that be? Is it because I have it in limp-home mode? Or is there something else going on, like a vacuum leak? My idling manifold pressure is about 85kPa, and the engine-off pressure reading is 97kPa. Does that sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 It turns out that my cranking and afterstart enrichments were... well, rich! Way too rich. I got a GREAT tune file from a friend, and now I can get it to idle at 800RPM, rock solid, with no throttle input at all. When I do give it throttle, it only revs up to 1500RPM or so. Why would that be? Is it because I have it in limp-home mode? Or is there something else going on, like a vacuum leak? My idling manifold pressure is about 85kPa, and the engine-off pressure reading is 97kPa. Does that sound right? It idles at 85? Do you have a vacuum gauge? That doesn't sound right. The engine off pressure sounds about right, though. If it won't pass a certain RPM it's usually too lean/rich and/or timing is way off. Check the map and smooth it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Whoa, I was going to say that black, sooty plugs are a sign of being way too rich. Engine off pressure of 97 kPa is 14.1 psi, nearly atmospheric which is correct. A reading of 85 kPa is very low for manifold vacuum. That is basically 2 in. Hg; I idled around 18 in. Hg on my setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 So either my MAP sensor isn't calibrated right (which I doubt, since engine-off reading is okay), or I have a big fat leak somewhere. Agree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 (edited) So either my MAP sensor isn't calibrated right (which I doubt, since engine-off reading is okay), or I have a big fat leak somewhere. Agree? If it had a leak that big, the engine wouldn't be idling at 800. 8000 more likely. Are you sure Tuner Studio has the correct MAP settings in the config? I know some of the MAPs have points where their voltage outputs intersect. Edited May 11, 2011 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 No, not sure about MAP settings. I am using the stock 2.5 bar sensor and may need to recalibrate... Need to find instructions for doing that in the Megamanual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 No, not sure about MAP settings. I am using the stock 2.5 bar sensor and may need to recalibrate... Need to find instructions for doing that in the Megamanual in Tuner Studio it's, Tools / Sensor Calibration select MPX4250 for the default one that MS2 v3.0 board uses. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Man, that's the one I had selected already. I was hoping for an easy fix. I wonder why else the idling pressure would be off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Man, that's the one I had selected already. I was hoping for an easy fix. I wonder why else the idling pressure would be off? If the tune isn't running as well as it can be, the engine just plain won't pull enough vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 I hope that's all it is. It does seem logical that if the engine were otherwise properly tuned, more intake air would simply mean higher RPMs. Now that I better understand how to use the Trigger Wizard to adjust my timing, I'll try that tonight. After I install my injector o-rings, which I apparently damaged when I installed them dry. Nothing like fuel spray all over my hot engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 When your engine is idling at 800rpm now, what it the timing advance the light shows? I would expect it to be around 20-24BTDC on an L28ET. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 I'll be checking that tonight. The first thing I want to do is use the Trigger Wizard to make sure that actual timing (measured with a timing light) matches commanded timing in Megasquirt. I plan to set the Fixed Timing to 15*, then use the Trigger Wizard adjustments to bring the actual timing to 15*. I'll report results in the morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Sounds good. Once you get that to match then switch to your real timing table so advance at idle is around 20-24. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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