AtlantaZ Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Great... my fuel rail has decided to leak at the #4 and #6 injector holes. Anybody got a spare Pallnet/JSK rail that they'd be willing to sell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Sure the o-rings aren't just fubar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) Great... my fuel rail has decided to leak at the #4 and #6 injector holes. Anybody got a spare Pallnet/JSK rail that they'd be willing to sell? You really think you need an all new fuel rail? Unless you have some legitimate physical damage to the rail itself, it's going to be your fuel injector O-rings (assuming this is an O-ring style rail opposed to a barb style rail). I've reviewed this whole thread and I think you just need to start with a solid fixed advance angle and go from there. Once you can control timing, the rest should be pretty easy, just a matter of electronic adjustments really. If you're getting consistent fuel pressure, an accurate timing measurement, and you don't hear a big nasty HISSSSS of air coming from the intake manifold (vacuum leak), you're in good shape. Just keep going, I've been in your shoes before...trust me. Edited May 12, 2011 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 I tried installing three different sets of new o-rings on my injectors, and tried lubricating them liberally with oil, and all three times I get fuel spraying all over the place as soon as the rail pressurizes. When I remove the injector, the ring is torn and/or abraded. And I am inserting them as gently as I know how. On the Supra o-ring injectors, is there some sort of additional grommet or gasket that goes between the rail and the injector body? I can't find an obvious reason why the same two rail holes keep leaking fuel everywhere. I can't wait to fix this and get on with adjusting the timing! And a big thanks to everyone who's offered helpful tips and encouragement. I'm getting close!! I'll be sure to post a video of the car running (when/if that day comes!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 If I can't get these o-ring injectors to seal, I may consider moving to a barbed rail instead. Anyone have a good recommendation for barbed-style injectors that will fit the 280zx manifold and perform similar to the Supra 440cc turbo injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 If I can't get these o-ring injectors to seal, I may consider moving to a barbed rail instead. Anyone have a good recommendation for barbed-style injectors that will fit the 280zx manifold and perform similar to the Supra 440cc turbo injectors? Pull the fuel rail off, install 1 injector at a time, with some rubber grease on the o-ring, apply pressure and twist the injector at the same time, have the injector on a 20ish degree angle, so the o-ring sits into the rail more in one area, until the o-ring is fully in the rail then straighten it up, put all 6 injectors into the rail, then fit it to the manifold. been careful not to have a injector come out. PS take your time, don't rush it. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 How about I just JB weld them on? Kidding!! Taking the rail to Not On Main Street Garage tomorrow. The guys there think that there may be a burr somewhere up in the rail bore, so they're going to ream it out and check it for me. If that doesn't work, I'm going to convert the rail to a barb type - but I'll have to figure out how to clamp down the Supra injectors on the manifold. I'll report in tomorrow with results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 (edited) Got my new fuel rail in. Alternator appears to be good, system voltage is 12-13V, but I still can't convince it to rev over 2k rpm. It idles just fine at 1k rpm. When I floor the pedal, the engine splutters, revs up to 2000RPM, then splutters its way back down to 1000RPM (with the pedal still on the floor). Any thoughts? Edited May 30, 2011 by AtlantaZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 I'm thinking that the problem may be a combination of timing issues and possible vacuum leaks. Once I replaced my melted turbo coolant feed line, I'll continue tweaking. By the way, I recommend that no one ever use rubber line to feed coolant to the turbo. Those suckers get hot!! And rubber doesn't like hot metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Last ditch call for help! I'm about ready to take it down the street to the pros. If anyone is local to Atlanta, Georgia, and has time to help me troubleshoot my Megasquirt setup this weekend, I'd gladly buy you lunch!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Hah! Got it to idle again. The trick was to set up my injector characteristics to 100% current limit - even though they're low impedance injectors, for some reason only the high impedance injector settings work. Maybe I don't have the flyback circuit installed like I thought? It splutters when I throttle it again. Since there's a 1" gap currently between my turbo outlet and my downpipe, I can clearly see blue flames when I throttle up to 1500rpm - is this normal? I feathered the gas and got it up to 2500rpm, and got a backfire - which made for a smoky fireball in my engine bay. Pretty spectacular! Anybody else think my fuel might be a tad rich? Now that idles, I think I will install my wideband O2 sensor and see where my readings are at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack_280 Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Good luck. I'm just about to start putting my engine back together and wiring up my MSII. I'm hoping to have everthing back together before ZCON in mid July, but I realize that's going to take quite a bit of things going right when I've had nothing but things going not quite right up to this point. If you do end up finding a solution (or the pros do) let us know what it was. Zack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 I feel like the advance and fuel tables are rock solid, so I'm going to mess a bit with the injector settings. I think the O2 sensor will go a long way in helping me figure out exactly where the problem is. I will say that TunerStudio's "Output test" feature was really helpful in diagnosing the system. Using it, I was able to confirm that all six injectors were firing - which was one of my concern. Please feel free to ask me any questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Yes install the wideband sensor so you know what ratio your engine is running at. Is your fuel pressure steady when the engine revs just revs to 2k?. Your fuel tables and timing tables can't be locked down, if you don't know what the engine is running at. When you use someone elses fuel and timing tables, it doesn't mean your engine will like the exact same numbers and or settings, in each cell. Its a good starting point but the wideband is your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 (edited) I managed to capture some of the blue-flame effect on my phone's camera. Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gopTeQIo8b4 Edited June 3, 2011 by AtlantaZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) Wideband says that at my 1000rpm idle, I'm reading about 12.5:1 AFR - sounds rich for idle, yes? What's the correct way to bring the idle to where I want it to be (15:1)? When I throttle it, the AFR drops to 8:1 or below. What's going on there - it seems like maybe the engine is miscalculating? How do I get it to run on EGO control? And should my exhaust manifold be glowing red after idling and revving the engine to 2000rpm for 20 minutes? My coolant temp reads 190F, so the coolant is okay, but it just didn't seem like the manifold should be that hot... or am I naive? Edited June 4, 2011 by AtlantaZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 Found one problem: The AFR tables CANNOT be calibrated on a running engine! I'll try recalibrating on Sunday and post progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 If your idle tuning it, you just reduce the numbers in your fuel table and check the wideband. 12:5 to 13:2 are good at adle. Seems the engines like idle around there. And yes 8:1 is way rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Running that rich for 20 minutes will definitely make the manifold glow! You're dumping tons of extra fuel out of the exhaust ports some of which then burns in the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaZ Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 The engine seems to only want to run smooth when I set the Supra turbo injectors up with "high impedance" type injector settings in TunerStudio... but now they're burning hot to the touch. What's going on here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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