74_5.0L_Z

Just looking at the picture that you posted of your steering shaft, it looks like the u-joints aren't phased correctly. It may be an optical illusion from the angle of the picture.

When are you hoping to get this car on track? I'm hoping to do an SCCA track day at Sebring in February. It would be nice to see you guys there.

I like the external slave cylinder. You may have to clearance the driveshaft tunnel a bit, and it will create another obstacle to routing headers. I'm using a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing. Works great and doesn't take up space in the driveshaft tunnel. The downside is that if it leaks then you have to remove the transmission to fix it...

They are Spinwerkes series 82. Unfortunately they are no longer available. I bought them around 2007. 15x10 and weigh 12 lbs

The two areas "1" are a great place to attach tow hooks.

Hopefully you are converting to all SAE / AN brake fittings. It's a real pain to have a mix of metric and SAE. I routed my brake lines inside the cabin to get the brake lines away from heat. I'm running a Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and use a proportioning valve installed on the drive shaft tunnel.

That is an interesting master cylinder set-up. I haven't seen that before. I assume that you will be running all new brake lines.

The dyno chart for that was from my old 331 stroker: Stock Roller Block (4.030" bore) Eagle 3.25" stroker crank and rods Mahle 4.030 Pistons Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.571" lift) AFR 185 heads 1.75 Long Tube headers 30# injectors I scattered that engine at Daytona My new engine is a 347. Dart SHP Block (4.125 bore) Scat 3.25" stroke forged crank and H-Beam rods Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.625" lift) AFR 185 heads Long Tube headers 42# injectors I use Megasquirt MSPNP 2 to tune both engines.

With a good 5th gear, overdrive is wonderful... I have the mythical R200 with 3.36 rear gear. The transmission is a T5 with the G-Force Shafts and gears 1 through 4. I run short tires Avon 23 /10.5-15 on all four corners. When I first installed the G-Force gears I was only auto crossing the car, and really only used 2nd gear. When I started doing track days (Daytona and Sebring), I quickly discovered that 5th gear was horrible. With the stock gears, 5th wasn't optimal but wasn't too terrible (3.35, 1.94, 1.44, 1.0, .67). When I changed to the G-Force Gears, 1st gear was improved but 5th gear sucked (2.95, 1.95, 1.33, 1.0, .58) First time at Daytona, I was redlining 4th gear by the time I came off the banking onto the front and rear straights, and the .58 5th gear would drop my rpms and torque too much to be useful. The .58 5th gear was horrible, so I pulled the transmission and took it to Astro Performance in Tavares, Fl and had them install the A5 5th gear (0.81). The difference was night and day. Overdrive went from a total buzz kill to being my Warp Drive... If you get a transmission with a good 5th gear (TKX with .81 5th), then you'll be fine. This is what the gear spread (speed versus rpm) looks like: Here is what a full acceleration run looks like if you assume 0.25 second shifts: The above uses numbers from my old dyno chart and the following inputs: Dyno graph from my old engine (my new engine makes more power and torque):

I used to run this: https://www.thezstore.com/product/6551/tension-rod-t-c-kit-70-8-87-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx It worked pretty well. I have since gone to rod ends and a clevis.

http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/7. Steering Universal Joints, Splined Couplers and Shafts.pdf

There are couple of ways that you can attack this. 1. You can add a u-joint and rod end support between the existing to get you under the motor mount. 2. You can raise the motor mount pad to allow the existing shaft to pass under. That may cause other issues like hood clearance and drive line angle. 3. You can shift the entire steering column inboard and down. I did this on my car using some 1/4" aluminum plate at the firewall and where the column bolts to the pedal box. But mine is just a race car. My seat is moved 1" closer to the centerline, and I wanted the steering wheel centered on me.

Years ago, I had to add an extra u-joint to get around my headers. I used a Sweet Manufacturing U-joint and a rod end. This was way back in 2003, so I don't remember the specific part numbers. You do need to add the rod end as an additional support. You need to align the universal joints so that they are phased properly.

Do you plan to do any chassis reinforcement? Cage?

What size tires will you be running? What rpm are you expecting to set as redline? Also, your calculator has the speed profiles for the option 3 and option 4 swapped. You will have a higher top speed with the 3.3 gear.