Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by Wheeler

  1. Tool man - I have only done some autocrossing with the car. That and weekend use is really what I use it for. It is fun and handles great and is loud and a little smelly...but it is fast. I followed a similar path to the one you are on. Once I redid the front subframe, I went on the the core support. Mine was a little bent (probably from an accident) and I thought I could improve it a bit. Here is one picture that I found. Lesson learned - you need to make sure the hood hinges work with your core support in the open and closed position. Mine contacted the sheet metal on either side of the core support and needed to be cut a little to allow the hinge to clear. Keep up with the great progress that you are making.
  2. Nice work, I had to do a similar thing as well as my front sub-frame was damaged. I decided to make my own TC mounts however - i'll see if I have a picture or two. This combined with full length sub-frame connectors has really made my car stiff. You will like it when done.
  3. Wheeler


  4. I used a rebel 12 circuit harness. Worked very well no complaints. I really don't care for most of the painless products that I have seen.
  5. Wheeler


    From the album: Wheeler's Z

  6. Wheeler

    Looking for an opportunity

    I'm looking for a new challenge in my professional life and hoping somebody here might have some ideas or even opportunities. I've been at the same company for 15 years working as a mechanical engineer in differing capacitities on large off road vehicles. I started as a test engineer and worked my way up to engineering management but now I think it is time for something new. Looking to relocate to the western part of our great country or Wisconsin / Minnesota area and would consider working in many different technical or semi technical fields, but am not looking for a typical job in some big corporation (already there). Hoping to find something a little out of the norm in a new place. Please let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks guys.
  7. Wheeler

    Wanted: 280z Interior Parts

    Wanted parts interior for my 280z. Looking for mostly parts for the hatch area plastic trim panels around the side quarter windows, behind the rear shock towers, the filler panel on the hatch, the panel over the tai lights inside. All in black. Parts must be in good shape. Let me know what you have
  8. Let me know if you have one without cracks. Thanks
  9. Wheeler

    Wheeler's Z

  10. Wheeler

    Wtb. 280z right side taillight surround

    Paypal sent Thanks
  11. Wheeler

    Wtb. 280z right side taillight surround

    Dhp. Done. Let me know how to pay you
  12. Just need the lower rear portion of the inner fender plastic to prevent the accumulation of gravel between the fender and the body.
  13. Hope someone can help, been strugling with this for awhile. I recently reassembled my rear stub axles in the strut housing (with the spacer that came out of it and new bearings), installed the companion flange and tighted the locking nut. I did an inital assembly and everything went together fairly well, but I found that by grabing the rear brake disk (AZC five lug conversion) there was very slight axial play, I would guess about 1-2 thousands. I tried to tighten the nut further and did so up to 250 ft lbs but this made no improvement. I have verified that the play is in the stub axle / wheel bearings and not in the suspension or shock to strut inerface. And I am seeing this on both rears not just one. Any thoughts or experience on this is appreciated. My car is a 1975 280Z. Thanks -Colin
  14. My car (280z with ls1,az lca, coil overs, azcar 5 lug conversion) is finally out on the road and running pretty well. But now the process of dialing it in little begins. The biggest issue I am seeing is that the car is very sensitive to bumps in the road and will pull hard to the side of road in which the bump occurs. This is coupled with a lot of steering feedback, more than I would like. I don't believe this is bump steer (I have some of that too, but not too bad). I think it is excessive scrub radius causing this. I recently got the car aligned.... Caster 3.125 degrees Camber -1.5 degrees SAI 22 degrees I am running 225/50R16 tire on -38 rims. What am I missing? There are many on this forum running more offset which should increase scrub more than I have. What can be done to reduce this? Any thoughts
  15. Well I put the rack stopper back in and took it for a drive. What a difference! There is still some feedback into the wheel over bumps but it is much better. The stopper bumper is about 1/16 away from the x-member when mounted, I think if I adjust it so it is tight against the x-member it may be even better.
  16. Heavy, I put in the rack stopper, test drive in the morning. Monkey, Here is a picture from this summer, it is a little more complete now, have to do the interior yet. How is yours coming along?
  17. Thanks for the suggestions. The front suspension is all new parts / bushings and feels tight (no slop) so I don't think wear is to blame. The front lca are not quite horizontal, I relocated the inner pivot outward and upward per the suggestions elsewhere on this forum (may have come from you John). Heavy, interesting thought, I did not put this back in. What does it do, prevent the rack from sliding lateraly?
  18. Wheeler

    Fiberglass door panels w/speaker holes

    Pete, How do I go about ordering a couple of these without speaker holes?
  19. Thanks heavy. Good to know that I'm not the only one seeing this. I was thinking of milling about .002 off the spacer and trying that to preload the bearings as right now I don't think I am at all. Do you remember what thickness spacers you were playing with? I just want to make sure I'm in the right ballpark.
  20. So I think I have tried just about everything. I removed the worst side and then assembled it in the bench (stub axle, outter bearing, spacer, and then the flange). Tightened it all down and then measured the space between the companion flange and the spacer to verify that I able to preload the outer bearing when assembled in the car and that the flange did not bottom on the spines before it contacted the outside bearing or that the nut ran out of threads before the companion flange contacted the inner bearing inner race. It all checked out ok. I then replaced the inner bearing with an another new one and putti back together and it seemed pretty good. At this point I said screw it and drove the car! (First time ever and it was awesome though a little loud with no exhaust and no windshield). Now it just checked it agian and it is again slightly loose. Any other thoughts. Should I be able to increase the resistance to wheel turning by adding torque to the nut? I've heard many say that you should tighten until the resistance is correct. I did try drinking and it only helped for awhile, will try again....
  21. Wheeler

    WTB 280z hood release cable

    Need a hood release cable from a 280z. Let me know if you have one.
  22. Wheeler

    Water Inlet Plumbing

    To follow up I finally got something to work. I used a canton swivel water neck and then used an 8inch napa universal flex hose with one end at1.5 and the other 1.75. Really happy with the fit, but the water neck cost too much. Hope this helps someone.
  23. Having some trouble figuring out the water inlet plumbing for the cooling system. I'm looking at a swivel inlet neck for the engine from Jegs, but at $120 I'm hoping for a better / cheaper answer. The problem is the engine coolant inlet and the radiator outlet (bottom port) are not aligned and routing a hose between the two looks difficult or impossible without a pre-bent hose. Wondering what others have done for this - pictures would be great. Thanks
  24. Rags. I was looking at a old post. (July 2009). Where you had loose rear wheel bearings. What did you eve do to fix. I am having a similar problem.

  25. It has both radial and axial play. Going to get a washer to put under the nut to ensure I am getting preload and not bottoming the nut out at the end of the threads. All I can think of short of getting another set of new bearings or just start drinking.