Wheeler

Tool man - I have only done some autocrossing with the car. That and weekend use is really what I use it for. It is fun and handles great and is loud and a little smelly...but it is fast. I followed a similar path to the one you are on. Once I redid the front subframe, I went on the the core support. Mine was a little bent (probably from an accident) and I thought I could improve it a bit. Here is one picture that I found. Lesson learned - you need to make sure the hood hinges work with your core support in the open and closed position. Mine contacted the sheet metal on either side of the core support and needed to be cut a little to allow the hinge to clear. Keep up with the great progress that you are making.

Nice work, I had to do a similar thing as well as my front sub-frame was damaged. I decided to make my own TC mounts however - i'll see if I have a picture or two. This combined with full length sub-frame connectors has really made my car stiff. You will like it when done.

I used a rebel 12 circuit harness. Worked very well no complaints. I really don't care for most of the painless products that I have seen.

I'm looking for a new challenge in my professional life and hoping somebody here might have some ideas or even opportunities. I've been at the same company for 15 years working as a mechanical engineer in differing capacitities on large off road vehicles. I started as a test engineer and worked my way up to engineering management but now I think it is time for something new. Looking to relocate to the western part of our great country or Wisconsin / Minnesota area and would consider working in many different technical or semi technical fields, but am not looking for a typical job in some big corporation (already there). Hoping to find something a little out of the norm in a new place. Please let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks guys.

Wanted parts interior for my 280z. Looking for mostly parts for the hatch area plastic trim panels around the side quarter windows, behind the rear shock towers, the filler panel on the hatch, the panel over the tai lights inside. All in black. Parts must be in good shape. Let me know what you have

Paypal sent Thanks

Dhp. Done. Let me know how to pay you

Let me know if you have one without cracks. Thanks

Just need the lower rear portion of the inner fender plastic to prevent the accumulation of gravel between the fender and the body.

Well I put the rack stopper back in and took it for a drive. What a difference! There is still some feedback into the wheel over bumps but it is much better. The stopper bumper is about 1/16 away from the x-member when mounted, I think if I adjust it so it is tight against the x-member it may be even better.

Heavy, I put in the rack stopper, test drive in the morning. Monkey, Here is a picture from this summer, it is a little more complete now, have to do the interior yet. How is yours coming along?

Thanks for the suggestions. The front suspension is all new parts / bushings and feels tight (no slop) so I don't think wear is to blame. The front lca are not quite horizontal, I relocated the inner pivot outward and upward per the suggestions elsewhere on this forum (may have come from you John). Heavy, interesting thought, I did not put this back in. What does it do, prevent the rack from sliding lateraly?

My car (280z with ls1,az lca, coil overs, azcar 5 lug conversion) is finally out on the road and running pretty well. But now the process of dialing it in little begins. The biggest issue I am seeing is that the car is very sensitive to bumps in the road and will pull hard to the side of road in which the bump occurs. This is coupled with a lot of steering feedback, more than I would like. I don't believe this is bump steer (I have some of that too, but not too bad). I think it is excessive scrub radius causing this. I recently got the car aligned.... Caster 3.125 degrees Camber -1.5 degrees SAI 22 degrees I am running 225/50R16 tire on -38 rims. What am I missing? There are many on this forum running more offset which should increase scrub more than I have. What can be done to reduce this? Any thoughts

Pete, How do I go about ordering a couple of these without speaker holes?

Thanks heavy. Good to know that I'm not the only one seeing this. I was thinking of milling about .002 off the spacer and trying that to preload the bearings as right now I don't think I am at all. Do you remember what thickness spacers you were playing with? I just want to make sure I'm in the right ballpark.

So I think I have tried just about everything. I removed the worst side and then assembled it in the bench (stub axle, outter bearing, spacer, and then the flange). Tightened it all down and then measured the space between the companion flange and the spacer to verify that I able to preload the outer bearing when assembled in the car and that the flange did not bottom on the spines before it contacted the outside bearing or that the nut ran out of threads before the companion flange contacted the inner bearing inner race. It all checked out ok. I then replaced the inner bearing with an another new one and putti back together and it seemed pretty good. At this point I said screw it and drove the car! (First time ever and it was awesome though a little loud with no exhaust and no windshield). Now it just checked it agian and it is again slightly loose. Any other thoughts. Should I be able to increase the resistance to wheel turning by adding torque to the nut? I've heard many say that you should tighten until the resistance is correct. I did try drinking and it only helped for awhile, will try again....

To follow up I finally got something to work. I used a canton swivel water neck and then used an 8inch napa universal flex hose with one end at1.5 and the other 1.75. Really happy with the fit, but the water neck cost too much. Hope this helps someone.

It has both radial and axial play. Going to get a washer to put under the nut to ensure I am getting preload and not bottoming the nut out at the end of the threads. All I can think of short of getting another set of new bearings or just start drinking.

Ok so i took it all apart and can see nothing wrong. The spacer ("B") matches the casting marking, the outside bearing looks to be installed correctly and properly seated. I confirmed the outside bearing is the right part number. The inside bearing, though hard to see, looks like it is seated. The only thing I noticed is that I don't have a washer between the lock nut and the companion flange, therefore when's tightening the nut i may be bottoming out on the shaft threads I'm preloading the bearings. Does everyone else have a washer here? Black dragon shows a washer in their catalog but the couple of manuals I looked at don't show one. This is killing me, as its the only real thing I need to do before taking the car out for the first time, it's been about 8 years since I started working on it.

Rags. I know this is a very old thread, but how did you fix this (rocking)? I am having the same issue with brand new bearings.

Thanks Zed, makes a lot of sense. I'm going to borrow a dial indicator this weekend and check axial play. Maybe its is OK but I am now doubting it. The movement is pretty small, but there is a audiable clunk when I push and pull on the brake disk (I've not heard of others having this, except with worn bearings), and like I said the only place I see movement is the companion flange moveing in and out a little so I do think it is the stub axle moving realative to the strut housing.

Z240 I hear what your saying but I am able see the companion flange move when I push/pull on the rotor. So I don't think it is the rotor to stub interface. Looks like the companion moves a few thousands but hard to tell with out at dial indicator. The wheels turn very easily which also has me concerned as it I measure about half the force I see in manual. Manual says force to rotat wheel should be about 16oz (if I remember correct) and mine measured about half that.