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reefedjib

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About reefedjib

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  • Birthday 04/06/68

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    Denver, Colorado
  1. Why SUs will work well on a Stroker?

    Ok, so that's my incorrect use of "constant velocity", which seems to have more to do with the jets. I am not sure what you would call my observation... "manifold velocity"? It is the velocity of the air-fuel in the manifold. After the valve closes, the momentum of the air-fuel means its velocity does not change much and the air-fuel builds up for another intake opening. It is very interesting that this occurs with these carbs. It does not occur with triples.
  2. Why SUs will work well on a Stroker?

    I want to make an observation regarding the Constant Velocity of SUs, as far as I see it. It is quite remarkable, yet another great feat of Japanese engineering. Twin SUs come with an intake such that the first SU feeds cylinders 1, 2 and 3, and the second SU feeds cylinders 4, 5 and 6. The distribution of intake strokes for the first SU (like the second SU) is #1, then a skipped stroke, then #2, then a skipped stroke, then #3 and finally a last skipped stroke before going back to #1. So it goes 1-skip-2-skip-3-skip-1... I do not know if it actually creates a standing wave of air flow, certainly the airflow will pull mixture into the manifold on a skip step. The result is constant velocity. Pretty neat, huh?
  3. Z Shirts and clothing

    I love them, but would prefer the S30 shirt to say Datsun instead of Nissan.
  4. I have read the thread and there is all kinds of info here. In reading there seems there may be a possible solution for me, going with 14" wheels, but I am having trouble pulling it together. Here's the deal. I have 1970 240 and I have 2 sets of 14" wheels: #1 14x7 iron crosses, #2 14x7 Enkei. I am feeling vintage, so I HAVE to stick with these wheels, man! I am a DD and I will TrackDaze 6 weekends this year, as well as ZCON. I need to get the best performance out of my brakes, front and rear, for this use. What are my options for front disk brakes? Vented/slotted/cross-drilled rotors? Caliper upgrades? [*]What are my options for going disk on the rear brakes? If it doesn't come together with rear disk brakes and a front disk upgrade, it looks like I will have to go with better pads/shoes, perhaps perforance rotors/drums, and call it a day. Thanks.
  5. Swap ideas for 1970

    I have a 1970 #3177, which I am replacing the entire drivetrain and suspension. No mods to the exterior or interior other than the steering wheel, the shifter knob and the climate controls. Engine: I read an earlier quote by someone here who said, paraphrasing: "I want the old style with the new technology". In my case, I want the old style with the old technology, squeezing as much out of it I can. Therefor, I have shipped my L24 numbers matching engine to Rebello Racing for their "Purist" engine build. Lower block is over-bored and stroked to make my 2.4L into a 2.84L. Head is bored for 280 valves, port&polish, new custom grind cam. It will be dyno tuned. All in all it will make around 270 HP, up from the 151 stock HP. This is plenty of power for a 240, in my book. I don't want Fuel Injection or Turbo; my SUs are awesome! I really don't need or want more, even though I plan on racing with TrackDaze. I will be trying my best to not lay rubber when the light turns green and get that ticket (it is my DD as well). Transmission: 1982 280ZX close ratio 5-speed transmission, completely rebuilt. Differential: Very rare R200, short-nose, 3.9 ratio, Gleason/Torsen racing ATB (T-2R with preload clutch packs: http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2R.htm) LSD diff. One of 80 ever made for the R200. I think it is a 5:1 torque bias ratio, but I am not sure about that. The link says "With a high torque bias ratio, the TORSEN T-2R can deliver up to 85% of available torque to the wheel with traction." I think that a 5:1 ratio means 5/6 of the torque goes to the tractive wheel, which is .833, damn close to the 85% mentioned in the link. Suspension: Tokico 280 HP springs/Tokico Illuminas/Suspension Techniques front anti-roll bar/full urethane bushings, except the T/C rods. Thanks JohnC! Rear disk brakes: from a 240SX, for my 14" wheels. Anyway, I thought I would just throw out my "favorite" modification preferences as an alternative to consider.
  6. That other austrailian auction site.

    I love pancakes, with my shmoke, but they have to have Maple Syrup. Who has better Maple Syrup?
  7. That other austrailian auction site.

    Canada grows better pot than the US.
  8. NISMO Racing Radiator Cap

    Money sent. Thanks!
  9. NISMO Racing Radiator Cap

    I'll take it. How much shipping to 20190?
  10. Callisto

    I am putting together a lot of parts to make what I think the S30 is meant to be. No turbo, no FI, no computers, original L24. The details of what parts I am putting in is in my sig. The engine got pulled yesterday and will be on its way to Dave Rebello early next week. Stroked to a 2.84 Liter. I am trying to find steel synchros to rebuild the tranny with. The diff has some backlash that I will have the shop get out. All work is being done by London Auto Services, here in Falls Church, VA. I used to be a mechanic, but my skills are sloppy, no space, no tools. I'll let the professionals do the work.
  11. Post pics of your z's here!!

    Here's my ride, currently in the shop for upgrades:
  12. requesting username change

    How can I go about doing this, please?
  13. Nissan part numbers: 32707-R5600 or 32707-58S00 Thanks, Rob
  14. I am looking for one of: 1977-1979 280Z/ZX 5-speed MT: FS5W71A 1980 280ZX non-Turbo 5-speed MT: FS5W71B 1981-1983 280ZX non-Turbo 5-speed MT: FS5W71B 1987-1989 300ZX Turbo 5-speed MT: FS5R30A. I would prefer the 300ZX Turbo FS5R30A. If anyone has a line on one of these, please PM me and let me know. Cheers.
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