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whyfeel

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About whyfeel

  • Birthday 12/02/1975

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    Northern California

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  1. Techno Toy Tuning has front weld on kits as well as front and rear coilovers for s130s now. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s130
  2. I have been daily driving an L28 for more than 10 years. I had it rebuilt when I got it and within a year the old (original) harmonic balancer separated. I only need 1 pulley for the alternator and water pump as well and went with the OEM 3 pulley. I am glad I did. The engine internals are stock, it passes smog easily and I abuse it to no end. That BHJ product looks great and you can option a trigger wheel for megasquirt. It looks like a good choice.
  3. I have an '82. I used some from a Z31 300zx from a junkyard and they fit with no modifications. The part looks slightly different but the fasteners let me up and the doors latch great.
  4. I have an '82 280zx n/a with a crane HI6s and LX92 coil. I used the 280zx distributor, removed the magnetic trigger assembly and installed the optical trigger conversion. I don't believe the magnetic trigger will drive the HI6. On the outside of the distributor was a plastic box that I removed. It looks similar in pictures to the ignitor on the S30's. The bonus of having the optical trigger is it's adjustibility; you can move it around in the distributor to get extra timing.
  5. That's great compression. I noticed you set it to 5 degrees BTDC. FSM calls for 8 plus/minus 2 degrees BTDC for an '82. I run 10 BTDC on my '82 zx with a '79 engine. Also double check the head temp sensor. I clean mine every few months to be sure, because it directly correlates to your fuel mixture. I know the hesitation and stumbling you are talking about. The car will run great but sometimes when cold it falls on it's face and starts "popping" in the intake somewhere until you let off the throttle.
  6. ^^^ Good to know. The t-top 280zx is really good at acting like a greenhouse in 100 degree plus weather. I've got my t-tops limo tinted and need to get my back 3 windows tinted a lighter shade so I can still see at night.
  7. 1982, 2580 lbs with a half tank of gas. I have some fiberglass on the car, but I did NOT remove the bumpers, I installed over the top of them for safety. You never know what kind of crazy stuff is about to go down on the roads. I eventually would like to build new bumpers, lighter and stronger than original. Ac removed including under dash parts. Power steering removed for manual rack and pinion. Odyssey battery, Al 13lb flywheel. Stock seats, power windows, mirrors still there. All interior pieces still there (minus the rear tailight cover and the rear headliner part) with full carpet.
  8. Here is a shot of how I mounted my tweeters. The stock speaker location is weird so I used a component to try and get better imaging. As it sits the high tones float right to your ears, even with luggage or a load in the back. This particular placement requires some EQ work to pull the excess highs out of the mix and it sounds phenomenal. The tweeters have a clear path to your ears but the rest of the speaker is shooting into your kidneys. Sorry, my car is dirty.
  9. Been busy as usual. First, the boring stuff. So the front suspension and steering is completely rebuilt now. Tokico Illumina struts Tokico springs Techno Toy Tuning adjustable TC rods Techno Toy Tuning Roll Center Adjusters Offset drilled Aluminum front control arm bushings various poly bushings New tie rod end links re-manufactured Manual rack and pinion steering rack ball joints were replaced 3 yrs ago Front wheel bearings and races replaced Front sway bars are 1 1/8 inch I just got the bearings and tie rod end links in and got new tires and an alignment. I had my front tires set to -0.4 degrees of camber each and it feels amazing. Also did a brake job for the bits that wear out. Replaced my front rotors with a set of cross drilled and slotted rotors I had from the previous car. Resurfaced the front and rear rotors with 3m twist lock pads and replaced brake pads with performance pads from PBR. I have been running them for years and they respond better with increased heat up to very high temperatures. Started in on the body. MSA body kit I had on the previous car was beat to hell. A little wet sand and rattle-can job turned out nice with my brother's help. I have some issues to clear up and will remount and relocate several bolts but it will suffice for now. I wanted to mount the fiberglass while retaining the stock bumpers, however heavy they are for safety reasons. This car is my daily driver and crazy **** happens on the open road. The bumper mounts needed to be moved back, overall shortening the car 3.25 inches from front bumper to back bumper. This doesn't include the two front rubber pieces on the bumper, at least 0.5 inches thick. So putting this on shortened the car overall 3.75 inches. Front bumper mount. Drill tube to release oil and smack with sledge gently to free up. Take measurements and weld in place. One of the rear mounts. Front view. Side view. Rear quarter. I still need to clean up the gunk on the side and do some more spraying but I really like it for now. Still need to tackle the rear suspension. Have the Tokico Blue struts and springs on as well as a 7/8 inch sway bar but I need to adjust my rear wheel's alignment. Despite the problems and a list still a mile long the car drives amazingly.
  10. I ran a '79 n/a 280zx and it primed and now I have an '82 n/a 280zx and it primes too.
  11. Haven't made any progress with the tach adapter. I believe the MSD Tach adapter isn't designed to work with Crane's HI6S setup. I posted more information about how I tried to wire it here --> http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107191-tach-adapter-with-crane-hi6s/ Last fall I noticed the speed bumps on campus were pretty huge. If I got caught in the wrong area I would scrape frame rail. I didn't have the facilities to do frame rails at my apartment, so I bent up some plated angle steel and bolted it up to keep the remains of the frame rails in tact. The PO did a number on them as well. It has been very effective, I should have made them a tad longer. I don't try to smash them and I take extreme angles but the car sometimes needs its frame sliders. Otherwise I have been cleaning up my electrical system. I put together an accessory fuse panel that bolts in place where the a/c and fan used to; two 10mil bolts. It fits nicely and is out of the way. Here is a shot of how I mounted my tweeters. The stock speaker location is weird so I used a component to try and get better imaging. As it sits the high tones float right to your ears, even with luggage or a load in the back. This particular placement requires some EQ work to pull the excess highs out of the mix and it sounds phenomenal. The tweeters have a clear path to your ears but the rest of the speaker is shooting into your kidneys. Sorry, my car is dirty.
  12. I'm guessing you might need the proportioning valve, yes. How much fluid do those Wilwoods take? 4 Piston might be bigger than stock so you could need a new master cylinder.
  13. I have a Crane HI6S system installed on my car with the optical trigger conversion in the distributor. It's an '82 n/a s130 with stock EFI. Here is what the wiring looks like. It works. I need to get the tachometer working correctly. I couldn't find Crane's 6000-8920 but I got MSD 8920 Tach adapter. I hope they are the same basic piece of equipment or I am wasting my time. I have been trying to get it hooked up with everything. In my above poorly drawn wiring diagram the Tach Adapter isn't going anywhere. I was trying to hook it up however the Crane wiring diagrams show different color wires than the MSD wiring diagrams. So I started messing with it. If it is a sensitive piece of equipment I hope I didn't ruin it. Tach adapter, four wires, black, red, white, and purple. Black is obviously ground. Red I hooked up to coil positive wires. I assume that this is just switched 12v positive for entire system. Then I hooked the white Tach adapter wire up to the coil negative/white trigger wire for the optical and the HI6S. I left out the purple wire. The engine ran and no change to tach. I assume that is because the HI6S, optical trigger and the adapter were all hooked up to coil negative and this circumvented any adapter circuit. Secondly, I ran red to coil positive and black to ground. Then I hooked ONLY the adapter to the Coil negative. Car wouldn't start, assume that is because in this setup the optical trigger went to the HI6S white wire and whatever the white adapter wire fed into Coil - didn't trigger fuel, my HI6S trigger led was blinking so it was working. Thirdly, I ran red to coil + and black to ground. Then I hooked the white adapter wire to the HI6S white wire and optical trigger (still leaving it out of the coil -). Then I put the purple wire to the coil - thinking it might be the signal out after "attenuating" the tach signal or whatever it does. In this mode the car started but ran extremely rough, wouldn't do more than idle sporadically, dying as soon as throttle was applied. This is most likely not the way to set it up. The last try, I put red to coil + and black to ground. Then I put the adapter in between the HI6S and the optical trigger on the white wire coming out of the HI6S. The the white wire on the Hi6S went to the white wire on the adapter, then the purple adapter wire went to the coil - and optical trigger. This filtered out my optical trigger sensor, so my HI6S status led didn't blink and it didn't start. So, I am not doing it correctly. I assume either a) the MSD 8920 box doesn't jive with the Crane Hi6S because it is designed for a different ignition type or I need to go behind the dash and find the wires coming out of the tach, then run the adapter wires red to coil +, black to ground, white tapped into the intact optical trigger/coil -/hi6s white wire to pick up the signal. Then figure out which tach wire is for signal, cut it and send the purple adapter wire directly to the tach. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Here's a rev test I did last month. revtestv2.wmv
  15. Been a while, been busy with work and school. I'll try and bring things up to date. First off, the above mentioned headlights are removed in favor of proper DOT approved MSR H4 headlights. Much better pattern on them. I have done normal maintenance, engine oil and filter, valve lashings, timing, cleaning harness contacts and the like. I have been running Redline synthetic oil in my transmission and differential, that is really nice. I have gotten a tach adapter, couldn't get it working. At the time I had a bad optical sensor in my ignition set so the engine kept dying while I tried wire it up in a few configurations. I have a Crane HI6S and I got the Tach Adapter from MSD PN 8920. The asked for Crane product was part number 6000-8920, so I thought it had a chance to work. It has to be with the Red and White input wires for the HI6S but I wasn't able to finish my troubleshooting. The problem is the MSD adapter has directions for use with MSD unit so the wire colors are slightly different. Here is how I have my HI6S set up. Any input would be greatly appreciated. In any case it runs well. I put in NGK Platinum plugs and gapped them to 0.045". The throttle response is neck snapping. In march I replaced the engine mounts and transmission mount. It was an amazing difference. I had replaced the engine mounts 8 years ago with OEM Nissan and they were shredded. My car was much quieter afterwards. Also at that time my kind brother sourced a junk 5speed that happened to be in great shape. It has the best throw of any used Dastun 5speed I have felt. The '79 5 speed I was running was destroying itself, I pulled 3/4" chunks out of the drain plug a year before I took it out. The speedo failed as well and started working with the new tranny. This is the nearly dead transmission's plug after I drained it before the swap. Pretty impressive that all that metal was flying around and it was still working. I think the Redline oil helped keep it together that extra little bit. It was very noisy in fifth and getting hard to shift. I didn't blow any gears but I took it easy towards the end, I didn't want to get stranded. Also been working on the front end. I put in Techno Toy Tuning TC Rods and I am very impressed by them. It tightens up the front end so much it got me going finding other broken stuff I hadn't noticed yet. I replaced the manual rack and pinion steering, already had poly bushings in it. They are getting very hard to source and it took Autozone 4 attempts to ship a working model. They were all re-manufactured however the first one had slop in the right side, the second had reverse threads on one end link. The third was the wrong part number shipped! They shipped a rack for a completely different vehicle. The fourth was finally right and works great. They are phenomenally expensive BTW. Now that the rack is good I need new tie rod links, one side is a little loose. An alignment after that and I should be feeling pretty damn skippy about it. For added comfort I got a set of Alpine S series component speakers. I mounted the tweeters flush inside the strut towers, gives pretty good imaging. Added a Bazooka 200w sub strapped in back and it is more than enough sound for the small interior. The sub is small, so you can unstrap it and unplug it easily for spirited drives. I have some more stuff to do, as always with a Z. Will update.
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