Professor Threadkiller

Got it. I see 'em now. Was a little dark down in them holes. Thanks for clearing that up!

What's the plan to keep oil out of the spark plug area? Is there enough meat left over in the spark plug boss for a counterbore for tubes or something? On your plastic mock-up, it looks like you left enough material to counterbore for tubes, but after threading the real casting, it looks tight. Maybe you're planning to finish the OD of the boss and seal on the outside? Also, what type of plug are you planning to use? Taper seat or crush washer? I don't see the machined feature for sealing the plug to the head. Awesome project! I'll never be able to afford one, but kudos to you and those who can!

No. Not if he told you three weeks and over twice that long you still didn't even have a shipping number.

There are several different connector styles used on the OEM harnesses, and the ones you've highlighted are from AMP (Now Tyco Electronics - TE). They are called AMP "Multiple Interlock Connectors (MIC)" and I don't think you're going to find them at Vintage. They are still available at a couple places but are certainly not popular anymore. Also note that there have been evolutionary changes to the product line over the years and you're looking for the oldest style called "Mark 1". There is MK2 and they have a different retention scheme and won't work (ask me how I know). Here's a pic of the male and female MIC MK1 contacts: I've found a few sources, but they carry min order quantities. Some not too bad, but I've been saving up other requirements before placing an order.

Yup. Figured as much. Hope everything else goes according to plan!

Yes, I'm positive that I wasn't making it up about how I've got a spare one for ya if you want!

Sent you PM.

M16 x 1.50 And I've got a spare one for ya if you want. PM me.

You looking for Z or ZX parts?

The "Fast Idle Control Device" (F.I.C.D) sends vacuum to the "Fast Idle Actuator" when the A/C is turned on. FICD is one of the solenoid magnet valves over by the battery and the fast idle actuator is bolted to the intake plenum. Sounds like you're talking about the fast idle actuator. For confirmation there are some pics on pages AC-30 and AC36.

Well I thank you for taking the time and going through the effort! So unless someone has a 4" rim option I can use......

For anyone who was planning to check out rims for me, it shouldn't be necessary as I've scored a 4 1/2 inch rim. I still have to get the tire dismounted and give it a good going over, but unless I missed some detail or measurement somewhere, the hunt for this thing should be over. Here's to hoping I didn't miss something and I can move to the next part of this project!

Haha! Well I didn't say it was brilliant... Thanks for the help and let me know what you find out.

kyle319, So about determining the wheel width with a tire mounted... I came up with this: Start with this. Ultra fancy coat hanger and a pair of little wood blocks that I had handy: Measure the blocks. The ones I used are 3/4 per side or 1 1/2 inch total for both: Tape the blocks to the rim lip. This is one side and the other side looks the same: Bend the wire so it reaches around the tire and just barely touches the blocks on both sides: Carefully lift the wire off and measure the distance between the points: Subtract the thickness of the blocks, and guess on the rim lip thickness. Here's my calculations for this wheel. It's my narrow space saver spare: I've found that most steel wheels are around 1/8 inch thick per side. Aluminum rims are usually thicker, up to maybe 3/8 each side. If you can assume that the rims are in increments of 1/2 inch, you can usually figure out what they are using this method. PTK

1 tuff z, Thanks for the help, but I'm not sure that would work for me. I've got a 77 and I don't think any 16" space saver spare will fit in my spare well. It's smaller than the 240s and 260s because they reduced the diameter of the spare well when they went to the collapsible spare. But... I do have a 14" space saver that is a small enough diameter that it DOES fit in the smaller well. Problem is that the offset of the space saver rim is way wrong. and the wheel won't clear my front caliper. Fits in the rear, but won't work in the front. So... Either I hope that if I do get a flat, that it's in the rear, or I need a different wheel. So, bringing this full circle... If only I could find a narrow rim with the right offset and bolt pattern on which to mount that 14 inch space saver rubber. That way, I could ditch the collapsible stock unit and I'd have a fully inflated space saver spare with the correct offset that would fit in my embarrassingly small 77 spare well while still being large enough to fit over my front calipers. That's the plan,, anyway. PTK

Kyle319, Did you get a chance to measure any wheels? BTW - If your wheels still have tires mounted, I've come up with a simple way to measure rim width without dismounting the tires.

Not exactly sure what you mean by "any rim", but I want to use it on my Z, so I guess I'm looking for: 14 inch sized wheel 4 1/2 wide 0 offset 4 x 4.5 bolt pattern Oh, and as for aesthetics, I'm not overly concerned. Surface rust is expected, and I don't care about paint quality, but I don't want something pitted and cratered so badly that looks like it spent two years underwater used as a boat anchor. I don't care about any particular slot design. I don't care if it has hubcap mounting tabs or anything like that. I don't care what car it came from as long as the geometry is appropriate for a Z. Hoping I answered the right question... Does that help?

Yeah, I'm using Chrome for this site now. That's how I did this:

I'm looking for a steel Z wheel from 70 or 71 to use for a spare on my 77. I've heard that the first two years used 4 1/2 inch wide wheels and then in 72 they wend to a 5 inch wide wheel. I want as narrow as possible to save space in the rear hatch area. I've already got a 5 and a 5 1/2, but I'm looking for narrower if possible.. So... Anyone got a 4 1/2 inch wide steel wheel from 70 or 71 available?

No, there were no images, just simple text. I dug around on the site and determined that the forum S/W is from IP Board (lower right hand corner of the footer at the bottom of the pages). Then I searched for "problems with paste IP board". It's clearly not a unique issue, http://community.invisionpower.com/resources/bugs.html/_/ip-board/problem-with-copy-paste-r32040 http://community.invisionpower.com/resources/bugs.html/_/ip-board/internet-explorer-11-copy-paste-issue-r42941 http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/514262/cant-paste-text-on-bc-using-ie-11 There's apparently an issue with IP board and IE 11. However... No, there were no images, just simple text. No, there were no images, just simple text. No, there were no images, just simple text. And... Paste seems to work just fine in Chrome. So I guess I've got my workaround?

Not sure if what I have is the latest version, but I'm running Windows 7 and IE 11. Anyone got a workaround or setting I can tweak to get it working again?

Well at least I got over the first hurdle. I feel a little better already knowing that it's not just me and thanks for that!!

I know it sounds stupid, but I can't get the paste function to work. I can copy text to my clipboard, but when I right click and choose "paste", nothing happens. Shift-insert doesn't do anything. None of three "paste" buttons up above work either. I can hit one of the buttons and I get the pop-up box "If you allow this, the webpage can access the Clipboard, etc..." I hit "allow access", but still no paste. So... Any guidance as to whether it's PEBKAC or something wrong on the site? Something so simple, but when it doesn't work, you realize how much you need it!! I used to be able to paste just fine. Now, sometime in the past few weeks something happened and now I can't.

If I had to guess, those vents are what I'm thinking he's talking about as well, but there are no valves in there. Those passageways are a straight shot down into the bowl. Here's hoping we can get some pics.

The flat tops have a sight glass into the float bowl that you can use to check the fuel level while the carbs are on the car. You can use the sight glass to see if that's really your problem or not before you jump right to a rebuild. Also, I don't believe those carbs have anything called an "overflow valve". Have you got a pic of what you are talking about?