Pete Sprenger

I don't know of any 3.35 Rebellos, but Les Collins racing offers a 3.4L L-motor. search for Green Hornet 240Z on youtube. That is a very fast car!

I just realized that the carbon fiber strut bar is just an aluminum bar rapped in CF, so that is out, but my question about CF hoods and hatches still stands. I searched for this topic, but didn't find anything, so if there is already a good thread, I would appreciate the link.

I need a new strut tower brace and I was going to get the Cusco bar from MSA (#23-4201C) but while I was on the MSA web site, I saw that they have a carbon fiber brace as well (#23-4238). My primary concern is the functionality of stiffening the chassis, but I would like to save weight if possible as well. The web site says that it is a functional piece, but would it be as stiff as the Cusco piece? I am also looking for a carbon fiber hood and rear hatch. I want to retain the stock glass and release button in the rear hatch, but I could install hood pins if need be for the hood. Does anyone know of a reputable company that has quality parts? Pete Sprenger 1972 240Z 3.2L Rebello with TWM fuel injection

That is awesome! I want to go for a ride!

Have you tried adding fuel above 4000?

Wow, that did not post the way I formatted it. Let me know if you can't make heads or tails of it and I will try again. Let me know if you want any of my other values. Keep in mind that my engine doesn't have a MAP sensor. I have to tune it with only RPM FUEL and THROTTLE POSITION, which s a pain!!!

Here is the timing curve I got from Rebello. It is conservative, not a set of race values. My guess is that your timing isn't advanced enough above 4000. Let me know. Also check to make sure your Fuel Cut setting is set for 6,000. RPM. DEGREES 500-1000. 10 1250. 12 1500. 15 1750. 18 2000. 22 2250. 24 2500. 25 2750-4500. 27 4750-5000. 28 5250-5500. 29 5750-9750. 30

I know some spark plug wire brands can cause interference with the SDS system. The brands are listed in the manual. I can look them up later today if you don't have the manual. I think it is more likely that your timing values are off. I'll post the values that Dave Rebello gave me later today. I have to go have brunch with the family right now.

Oh man! I'm excited to hear how it goes!

Wow! That is one good looking intake! I can't wait to see how thatching runs!

I missed that. I also agree. JB Weld on the inside of any engine isn't a great idea, but definitely not on a Datsun L engine. These things have so much vibration that it is guaranteed to vibrate loose eventually. The best solution would be to find someone who can weld aluminum to fill it in for you. It shouldn't cost much and will be a permanent fix.

JB Weld on the inside of the intake? Where do you see that?

Wow, that intake looks great! I really like how you modified the 240SX throttle body so that it looks more simple. I have a tap & die set that you can use if you want to thread that shaft farther and eliminate the extra washers. You are making great progress! Pete

Nicely done!your car is going to run like a champ when you are done! I have to pull the head on mine and send it to Rebello. Two of my valves keep getting way out of adjustmen and he wants to check it out. The great ting about doing your own wiring, as you are doing, is that it will make it easier to work on in the future. I had Duane do all the wiring on my car, and now I am a bit intimidated to pull the head since I have no idea what is going on in there. Pete

Oh, by the way, you can drain the block of coolant by removing the plug on the driver's side if the block. It looks like a big bolt sticking out of the side of the block, back by the transmission. Then you won't have to worry about coolant leaking when you remove parts.

Awesome to see some progress! If you make any brackets that you need welding, or need any welding done on your car, I can help you with that if you don't have a welder. The location of your coil packs looks good. You could have some really short spark plug wires! Duane can order you some custom length Magnacore wires if you give him the lengths you need. If you use a firewall grommet boot, you can drill your own hole in the firewall wherever you want it. Thanks for the kind words about my car. It is far from the ideal tune still, but it is getting better.

If you would rather just tke the whole car to Duane, let me know. I have a car trailer that is built specifically for an S30. I'd be happy to help you move it. P.S. I'm taking my car to a Dyno day on Saturday. I know that I am no where near the ideal tune yet, but I am excited to see where I am right now!

It's a great set up! It is really easy to make changes to the tune and it is great to not need a laptop to do it. The data logging is a great feature as well. It is still a pain to know what to change and by how much, but it is light years better than the triple Mikunis I replaced with it. . Duane is great too because he is happy to provide support long after the install.

Are you taking your car to Duane Bender at Motorworks Ltd.? If not, you should. He does great work and had done a lot of SDS installs on Z cars. He did mine!

I want a set of the carbon fiber door panels. I want to use the stock, hand crank window mechanism and I am envisioning a nylon strap for the door pull like some of the old 911s had. A few posts back, you mentioned that you had a set of the cf panels that need another coat of clear. Do you still have those?

The AZC big brake kit will *NOT* make your brakes twitch! One reason racers go to bigger brakes is for better/easier modulation without lock up. Tether reason is obviously for thelarger heat sink. However, if you only do the front, your alliance will be off, even if you install an adjustable biase valve. 13" brakes are certainly over-kill for the street (I personally love overkill, my entire car has been designed around the concept) , and only you can decided the upgrade is worth it for the two times a year you go to the track.

I just read the entire thread from start to finish. I am definitely a fan now! I found this topic sort of by accident. I just got my 3.2L Rebello racing engine running with its TWM throttle bodies and SDS efi and have been working on tuning it. It has kind of been a pain. In the end I should have a bit more power than a stock VQ35, but I was wondering if it might have been a better choice to have similar power, but the reliability of a stock motor. I have to build my dreams with a teacher's budget, so reliability is important. What do you do for a living if you don't mind me asking? After seeing your project, I may have to consider a career change!!!

Selling this car is something you will always regret and may even turn into resentment later. It isn't costing you anything to just let it sit. You may even have to leave it alone for a few years, but think bout how much fun it will be to work on with your son when he gets older! If at all possible, I say hold on to it!

I know this was thread is a bit old, but I just came across it. Motorworks Ltd in Belvue Washington is a great resource for stuff like this. The owner is Duane Bender and he is the president of the Z Car Club of Washington. He has done tons of work for me on my Z and I turst him completely. It it is possible, I am sure he can do it. He is currently working on a custom Z showcar for a customer that is AMAZING. He has the ability to machine custom parts. One of the really cool thing he is working on for this show car is struts that hold up the hood and allow you to eliminate the hood spring. Contact info: Motorworks Ltd 425-453-7082

The finned cover is going in for sure. The necessary parts should be here from AZC by the end of the week. Since I am doing this, I figured now would be the time to install the sensor (I already have the gauge installed and all the wiring done. I'll look more closely into using the cooler ports for a sensor location. I have never welded aluminum, so I'll try and avoid thqt if I can. Pete