Front Camber Plate Installation Experience.
I obsessed about the installation of my front plates for...... a long time.
I ran with stock - mounting insulators / bearings with GC coil overs / sectioned struts / Koni 8710 - until adding the DP Racing plates.
With front fenders off, and struts removed, I measured / marked the c/l of strut to firewall distance using a piece of stainless steel as a straight edge between the two strut towers.
I used a large blob of plumbers putty jammed up into the strut tower to use as a pattern to form the outside shape and bend angle required for the camber plate. I then used the plate as a pattern to mark the top of the tower leaving 1/4" to weld the plate to.
At this point I secured a piece of 1" plywood under the strut tower through the three mounting insulator attachment bolt holes - this wood was used to center the pilot bit of a 3 1/2" metal cutting hole saw, driven with a Hole Hawg. This was the perfect size for the inside cut on the top of the tower, only three straight cuts with a zip grinder finished off the strut tower top modifications.
After metal prepping the under side of the strut towers, aligning them, the camber plates where welded to the bottom of the towers.
I know - long winded... I hope this helps someone through this process.
I have wondered why I don't see more camber plates installed BELOW the top of the strut tower, since the forces will be up against the underside of the tower, rather than being resisted just by the weld when mounted above. - Also the PillowBall flat surface mates nicely against the underside of the camber plate without any interference with the cut surfaces of the strut tower, which sometimes happens when the plate is mounted on top.
A couple other things that where required... The top of the Koni damper rod required some machining in order to fit the sleeve in the PillowBall -- Also the top nut for the damper rod required a little machining in order to fit the top of the PillowBall. Thanks Andy.