Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 280zzzzz

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Vancouver - BC - Canada
  1. Vapor Tank or Delete

    Thanks very much for the feedback Grannyknot - I'm thinking of ITG Filter over velocity horns - I guess I could vent it into the backing plate of the filter .... ?
  2. Vapor Tank or Delete

    I am working on my Aug 76 280Z, using stock cleaned up fuel tank I have not posted much here lately, but would appreciate your opinions on whether or not to retain vapor tank in a swap from Bosch FI to Carbs. I have a NA Stroked L28 with 45 Webers, and am using a low pressure fuel pump from an older RX7 and plan to run it without a return line. My thought is to vent the tank to the fuel filler neck - What has been the most successful approach? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
  3. spook BRE 280Z

    Does anyone have experience with the spook for 280z. Pictures? How does it look? Installation difficulties?
  4. WTB center rear "license plate" finisher panel

    Thanks all. HybridZ. XLNT Resource as usual!
  5. S-30 and S-130 parts in great and some new

    Do you have the rear tag finish panel/light?
  6. 76 280Z Part Out everything must go!

    Would you sell the centre licence tag section with light of the rear finisher panel?
  7. Does anyone have a "license plate" center trim panel with light for a 1978 280z The body shop "can't find" the one that was one there when they took it apart. OO ~~~
  8. Camber Plate Alignment

    The bolt ons' do look nice on top... These DP units look about the same either way. I think it turned out pretty clean - I stressed out for the longest time about cutting into the towers... I would not have cut them if the car had been perfect in every other way... My MO is function first - it made sense to mount them below. Welding overhead does tend to markup my nice helmet... I appreciate your comments Mort.
  9. Camber Plate Alignment

    Front Camber Plate Installation Experience. I obsessed about the installation of my front plates for...... a long time. I ran with stock - mounting insulators / bearings with GC coil overs / sectioned struts / Koni 8710 - until adding the DP Racing plates. With front fenders off, and struts removed, I measured / marked the c/l of strut to firewall distance using a piece of stainless steel as a straight edge between the two strut towers. I used a large blob of plumbers putty jammed up into the strut tower to use as a pattern to form the outside shape and bend angle required for the camber plate. I then used the plate as a pattern to mark the top of the tower leaving 1/4" to weld the plate to. At this point I secured a piece of 1" plywood under the strut tower through the three mounting insulator attachment bolt holes - this wood was used to center the pilot bit of a 3 1/2" metal cutting hole saw, driven with a Hole Hawg. This was the perfect size for the inside cut on the top of the tower, only three straight cuts with a zip grinder finished off the strut tower top modifications. After metal prepping the under side of the strut towers, aligning them, the camber plates where welded to the bottom of the towers. I know - long winded... I hope this helps someone through this process. I have wondered why I don't see more camber plates installed BELOW the top of the strut tower, since the forces will be up against the underside of the tower, rather than being resisted just by the weld when mounted above. - Also the PillowBall flat surface mates nicely against the underside of the camber plate without any interference with the cut surfaces of the strut tower, which sometimes happens when the plate is mounted on top. A couple other things that where required... The top of the Koni damper rod required some machining in order to fit the sleeve in the PillowBall -- Also the top nut for the damper rod required a little machining in order to fit the top of the PillowBall. Thanks Andy.
  10. 1975 260z (1974.5)????

    I have had a similar issue with an Aug 76 280Z. There were production changes all the way along - Don't worry too much about MR.P.Eng - I feel the The serial number is the determining factor. Black Dragon has some good info on the website.
  11. Front Grilles

    can you get a USPS Ground Service Rate quote to V3S5T1 Surrey BC Canada and I'll send PayPal cash - if that works for you.
  12. Front Grilles

    Looking for 240 & 260 or 280Z front grilles - to fill in lower opening on 280Z with 240 bumpers.
  13. 1975 280z turn signal schamatic

    atlanticZ.ca - Z Tech Tips/Electrical Good Info source
  14. Crossmember Front 76 280z WTB

    Thanks for the offer Zentech - And for the excellent crossmember z240, she's been through garnet blast and is over at powder coating now. While rebuilding my front suspension and replacing bushings ,sway bar- I noticed that the crossmember had taken a pretty good shunt - and was a bit wadded up. So while I'm waiting for engine to come back from the shop, I thought I'de take this step to get the front end back into shape. Thanks Again Jim - I appreciate you help with this.
  15. The strut tubes on 280s are larger diameter, thicker material and also longer in the rear. It always amazes me how much the bumpers, rubber bits,filler trim, bumper shocks and fluid, brackets, and all the bolts weight, on the big park bench bumper system.