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Pharaohabq

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Pharaohabq last won the day on September 25

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About Pharaohabq

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  • Birthday 11/13/1970

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    Albuquerque, NM

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  1. Pharaohabq

    Stolen 240z?

    Well apparently the guy who posted it originally deleted his post
  2. Pharaohabq

    Stolen 240z?

    This car is listed on the fb group datsun z car enthusiasts. Apparently it's in az but out in the desert. Doesn't look good. But hopefully we can find the owner.
  3. Pharaohabq

    Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Yeah saw that, Hopefully he hasn't crapped out. His vids make it look like he buys a few cars and doesn't finish much. #49 260z is noteworthy, but not as exciting as #49 240z would be. Either way it's his project, he shoudl build what he wants. I did suggest that he get it runnign before he goes nuts with the mods.
  4. Pharaohabq

    Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Sorry for the doublepost... I checked out your channel, and your #49 is 260z #49, that's much different than the 240z #49. So again, noteworthy, but not so much a big deal. If you were restoring then perhaps. Before you get crazy with big tires and such, Get it running on your new engine then look into the big tires and flares and such.
  5. Pharaohabq

    Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Wow, Poor #49, Well it's your car and you do what you want with it. I posted some time back about the Value of a number. The only time a low vin, (and yours certainly is low) has real value is in a restoration piece and with numbers matching. My car #5837 is relatively low, and #49 woudl be noteworthy, but again it's not going to get you extra thousands in value unless you went full restoration. Swapping and cuting, well that shoots all of that so have fun. You do what you want. It's your car, your decision. I'm looking to restore my 240z, so I'd love to have #49, but again that's restoration not customization. To fit 315's you're going to need to do a little more than flares. maybe some strut changes, suspension swap? it'll fit, but hang out a long ways. I just put 215's on mine and they barely fit in the stock fenders. I'll check out your channel, but please update here from time to time. We're an amazing resource. Phar
  6. Pharaohabq

    Nicksoccer22's Build's

    Seattlejester has the right idea. But keep in mind it's quite possible that you've got shorts too, so when testing continuity on "hot" wires eg, from fusebox to the headlight, Use the FSM (Xenons30) to make sure you're following the correct wire, but test not only the wire, but also test to ground. That'll tell you if it's shorted too. Being that your harness was hacked and burnt, I'd suggest you pull a donor harness and use that, or get the Painless repacement harness. That'll save you a massive amount of headache. Phar
  7. Pretty cool! How'd things go when you picked it up? 2012 + 6 years to buy it back is a good 20 years. A lot can happen in that time, especially the price of parts. If the body didn't rot out while it was sitting then you should be able to fully restore it. I'd love to find my 260z from when I was 17, but I'm sure it's long long ago been gone and rusted away, crushed or whatever. You haven't posted here since July so I'm not sure if you're going to see this, but I'd love to see some "now" picts, since we've seen the "then" picts. Let us know if you have any questions on where to get the missing parts/repros. Phar.
  8. Pharaohabq

    Driveshaft is Stuck Good

    ANother Way I've got those stupid nuts loose was to wedge the tire iron in the Ujoint, and the other end up on a block to hold the drive shaft from turning. Then put a box end wrench on the nut, and use a jack on the other end of the wrench to turn the nut. The nuts will just pop loose and you can then get a rachet on them. Make sure you're turning the right direction! All this or a decent impact wrench and an extension will also pop them loose if you can get on it. you might have to pull the shaft from the tranny to do that, and that's really hard with the Diff still connected. The Ujoints aren't that hard to find. They ARE user serviceable, but any drive shaft shop should be able to do that job for you easier. I seem to remember it was a pain to pull the cups
  9. Pharaohabq

    Reviving #5837.

    Thanks, yeah I was thinking to JBweld it, but I might just drill that section and thread in a bolt since it's in an area where it was rubbing on the Belly pan. I'm adding a rubber bumper to keep it from flopping around. the stock mount is 1/2 torn through. Anyhow that's here nor there, and not really related. So back to what is. (again Pictures are forthcoming. I am trying to locate the usb3.1 roundy cable for my camera. ) So I'd left off after swapping the Brake MC and Clutch MC, The Clutch slave rubber line leaks, I just have to get back to that since I was waiting on parts. I went to check the wheel cylinders since the Brake MC is just pushing fluid. Looking under the car I can see fluid running out of the passenger side rear brake, so I jacked it up this past weekend, and put it up on stands, and pulled the wheels off. 240Z's have rear drums as you know, and I could see fluid dripping out of the drum. it was stuck on hard, (this is common, you just need the BFH to get it off) So a few whacks with the BFH and the drum comes loose. (oh another tech tip, a 4x4 block will allow you to use a claw hammer to lever the drum pressing against the strut. ) but suprise! when I pulled the drum off, There was NO SHOES, no hardware, nothing, they had sometime before yanked the shoes for some reason. (note Ebrake cable rusted through) so yeah, it was leaking because the cylinder had nothing behind it. No big deal, except the brake hardware kit is online order only, so that and new shoes will show up this week sometime. I pulled the wheel cylinder and the rubber line since I have a replacement. The hard line was frozen at the cylinder so I pulled it too. I was supposed to remove the bleeder valve but it just snapped off when I tried to turn it. not good With the cylinder out, I took a closer look. The rubber didn't "look" bad, but it was brittle. Fortunately I planned on rebuilding it. The Cylinder itself was frozen in there with hardened fluid. Not a good thing. I'm going to need to flush all the hard lines. I wedged the cylinder out and it didn't look too bad, but not too good either. New 240z drum cylinders are out of stock everywhere you look so it's either fix these or find something newer. I inspected the cylinder and piston and fortunately it was just gunked up but not pitted. So I started with oil and 400 grit paper, then 600 grit paper and smoothed the inside of the cylinder out, visually there's some staining, but it's nice and smooth. I cleaned it with brake cleaner. rubber gloves were difficult with the sandpaper. once I was happy there it was time to look at the bleeder that snapped off. it looks like it was overtightened at one point. Sucky part is it's two angles off from square. I pulled off the other rear wheel, and pulled off the Drum, Tada! brake shoes, no matter, it's getting replaced. New shoes are $20. so I took it all out and pulled the wheel cylinder. This one wasn't leaking, but also had no fluid in the line, so that's interesting. It's a lot easier to pull it without brake fluid everywhere. I took that one back to tthe bunch, and yup, frozen like the first. I wedged out the piston, same deal, cruddy put not pitted. so back with the oil and sandpaper. I wire brushed all the outside. The Ebrake adjuster was frozen in place too, but a couple taps popped that out. I put it in the vice and estimated the angles on the bleeder valve. Then I tried to match these up on the first cylinder on my drill press. I slowly drilled out the snapped off bleeder valve then went in with the right thread tap, fortunately I was close enough that the old threads popped loose and pulled out. A few times in and out, and I could knock the last of the old bleeder remains from the hole. I swapped over the good bleeder and it seemed to fit perfect. but that was a pucker moment since I don't know where I'd find another cylinder. I had to clean out solidified brake fluid from all the passages with a piece of wire, and I blew out all the crud. The Ebrake adjusters were cleaned out, and greased, the little bolt has reversed threads, so don't lose that I cleaned up the piston and with a little oil pushed on the new rubber. The new kit fit well. The little spring is important though I don't know exactly what it does. I haven't put pressure in these yet, since I don't have the new shoes yet, but I'm looking forward to it. I'll put these back in, get them connected, then when the new hardware shows up I'll close both sides back up, put on a new Ebrake cable and then look into the front. If the rears are this bad, I expect the front Calipers to be in not so good shape. Though Those are still availible so I'd just swap them out along with the rubber lines. Look I added the pictures! Phar
  10. Pharaohabq

    S30 Rear Diff Details

    Okay, Whatever, my point is that a short nosed Diff can and has been done. Maybe I had the name of the mount incorrect, but I only knew it as an RT mount. If RTz would comment then we'd know. Until then I'll stick with my shortnosed plans.
  11. Pharaohabq

    S30 Rear Diff Details

    Earlier RT mounts were for the short nosed diffs. I was looking and I can't find the pictures but the Techno Toys Short nosed mount is what I'm talking about. It moved the nose mount back a ways, yes you have to have your moustache bar modded too. But you CAN put in a short nosed without too much trouble. In J mortisen's link above, this is the RT mount I had seen before.
  12. Pharaohabq

    Reviving #5837.

    Yeah I've been busy raising a daughter and changing jobs, it's been tough to get back to things. I'll post up some pictures soon I need to take some when I get back out there. Not a Z note, but I have an 87 jeep wrangler that has a pinhole leak in the xfercase, any thoughts on how to patch that? it was from rubbing on the belly pan. Phar
  13. Pharaohabq

    First Project post - BadDog Missing?

    Z cleaned up nice. I assume you got your rails no issue?
  14. Pharaohabq

    Replacement sheet metal

    +1 on Tabco. They have just about every part. It'd be a good idea to check Rock auto on the same parts sine I was able to get the same tabco parts for nearly $40 of the set of rear arches.
  15. Pharaohabq

    240Z Horn Button Refab

    I think we already handled that for you. I still make these rings and a lot of other Z parts. Just let me know if you're looking to reproduce anything. We can always try. Are there any plastic engine parts that we have trouble finding anymore? I had a guy contact me about the z31 mirror window interface, but I need to look into Ninjaflex to see how rubber parts turn out and hold up to sunlight. I've made replacement z32 window sliders that've held up for nearly 5 years now. Let me know what you're looking for and we can see what is possible.
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