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Pharaohabq

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Pharaohabq last won the day on September 25

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About Pharaohabq

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  • Birthday 11/13/1970

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    Albuquerque, NM

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  1. When I was 14 my mom bought a 6 yr old 280z 2+2, it was nothing special, but I spent a lot of time in it going to school. When I turned 15 with the promise that my dad would teach me to drive. I was looking for a Z. I ended up with a Ford Pinto because it was $50 bucks. I fixed it and by the time I turned 16 I had my license. I drove the pinto to school a bit, and I was cool because I had a car vs all the shmucks on the bus. though not that cool. I was still drooling since my mom would let me drive hers when she wasn't going to be using it, one or 2 days a week. That was fun. I was hooked. I kept looking and soon found a 74' 260z for $250 about 4 months before I turned 17, it didn't run initially, but my dad and I were able to coax it to start. It smoked worse than mt st. helens in 1980. but rather than let it die, I smogged half the town getting it home. I parked it in the drive and took the next 3 months to rebuild the L26. This is where I learned the most about Z cars since this one needed about everything. it was Silver with a black vinyl top, 1/2 way decent interior. It was ~13 years old at that point. A little rust. I got it put together and turned the key expecting big issues, and vroom started right up, purred, perfect. I set timing and went to back it out of the garage remembering how sluggish it was when I drove it home, and I laid 5 ft of rubber out of the garage. Mom was not happy. Anyhow, I drove it for near 3 years, but always had vapor lock issues. I was feeling pretty pissed off being stranded a few too many times in the summer, and I came home and told my mom, I'd trade her. She to my surprise said, sure. Little did I know that following weekend they took my 260z and traded it in. Sad... The 280z 2+2 was mine though and little did I figure, it was full of gremlins. apparently it was once dumped in a ditch and partially flooded before we got it. I found this out because I went to replace the seals on the tail lights, and found a water line across the lenses, and rust all on one side. I had thermotime issues in the winter before we really understood that issue. Starter trouble, My brother hit a fence with it, and my mom flat spotted the tires trying not to hit a deer one night. so with a lack of funds to pay to fix everything, I parked it while I was in college. Girlfriends had z31's so I was still in the Z's and my brother had a 74' 2+2, then an 84' 50th anniv turbo. Meanwhile I got into RX-7's. after a couple of those, I bought an 86' 300zx. The prettiest... it lived 21 days before a truck ran it over. It set me back a ways, so I got the 280z running again and drove it till the clutch died... Parked it again at my parents. From there I bought a 81 Honda civic, I'd rebuilt those for my dad a couple times, and again it was cheap, $100 bucks... I drove that to school and work but one day I was driving to work and whoomp! head gasket blew and steam everywhere... The then was compounded 3 blocks later while I was limping to work, by being pulled over by a cop and ticketed for driving an "unsafe" vehicle. No, it was legal, just pouring steam out the tailpipe. Stupid oh well.. That very day I walked across the street to the Nissan dealer to see what they had and what I could qualify for. They had a 7yr old 92' 300zx, white, awesome, 3% on 13K was a deal and I was driving... I think I sold the Honda for $100 bucks. I still drive that Z32 nearly 20 years later as my DD. The 280z, one of my buddies said he wanted to rebuild, so I gave it to him, and promptly it "disappeared" I dunno, he probably sold it for beer, Who knows, he still won't tell me even today. I have a 280z VQ35 project that's been in progress for like 8 years, and 3 years ago I picked up my 70' 240z. I've helped tons or people fix their Z's in our local Z car club. I've also got a 92' D21, an 87 Jeep YJ, 97 Mitsu Eclipse GST, and a 06 Hyundai Sonata. I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've rebuilt a lot of engines mainly helping friends and family keep their cars on the road. So you could say Z cars are pretty well engrained in my blood, I love them and hate them. The looks are awesome, the engineering, well it's good for the time, being designed w/o computers and with thinner metal, but rust is so common, likely due to the salt bath they all took on the way to the US.
  2. Pharaohabq

    Driveshaft is Stuck Good

    Good to hear. Which method did you use?
  3. Pharaohabq

    Reviving #5837.

    Yeah, it's actually stained, not pitted, but hey, I found this: Centric Parts 134.42606 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder It's almost the same, and only really really concours purists would know the difference. It's not the exact one for the 70, but the cylinder is really similar. So much so that the 70' rubber cover would fit the same. The only difference is that they reworked the spot where the brake line attaches. (there's no bolt, and the line attached straight rather than at an angle. ) I've ordered these and will see how they work.
  4. Pharaohabq

    Reviving #5837.

    Well I got to work on things a bit more and unfortunately that brake bleeder is leaking which isn't so surprising. I put in a solid 1/4in bolt in with a little gray rtv until I can source a replacement cylinder cheap. I resembled the rear brakes with new lines and shoes and bled them, they do not seem to be leaking. While I had the rear up, I dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out. There is no inside rust and I wire brushed and bedliner the outside. I remounted the tank with new hoses. Though inside there's a air tank of sorts above the fuel filler that has a broken fitting I will need to repair. I'm not sure if that's a canister of sorts. Next I'll work on the front brakes. There is no driveshaft, and a 280z shaft I have is an inch too long, I'm going to swap in a 82' 5 speed, so I'll wait till then to shorten the shaft. The 4speed feels gummy when I was turning the driveshaft by hand. 27 years of sitting might have been bad for it. Look how bad this line was.
  5. Pharaohabq

    Stolen 240z?

    The internet had decided it is somewhere about 60 miles south of barstow. Never heard anything more.
  6. Pharaohabq

    Stolen 240z?

    Well apparently the guy who posted it originally deleted his post
  7. Pharaohabq

    Stolen 240z?

    This car is listed on the fb group datsun z car enthusiasts. Apparently it's in az but out in the desert. Doesn't look good. But hopefully we can find the owner.
  8. Pharaohabq

    Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Yeah saw that, Hopefully he hasn't crapped out. His vids make it look like he buys a few cars and doesn't finish much. #49 260z is noteworthy, but not as exciting as #49 240z would be. Either way it's his project, he shoudl build what he wants. I did suggest that he get it runnign before he goes nuts with the mods.
  9. Pharaohabq

    Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Sorry for the doublepost... I checked out your channel, and your #49 is 260z #49, that's much different than the 240z #49. So again, noteworthy, but not so much a big deal. If you were restoring then perhaps. Before you get crazy with big tires and such, Get it running on your new engine then look into the big tires and flares and such.
  10. Pharaohabq

    Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Wow, Poor #49, Well it's your car and you do what you want with it. I posted some time back about the Value of a number. The only time a low vin, (and yours certainly is low) has real value is in a restoration piece and with numbers matching. My car #5837 is relatively low, and #49 woudl be noteworthy, but again it's not going to get you extra thousands in value unless you went full restoration. Swapping and cuting, well that shoots all of that so have fun. You do what you want. It's your car, your decision. I'm looking to restore my 240z, so I'd love to have #49, but again that's restoration not customization. To fit 315's you're going to need to do a little more than flares. maybe some strut changes, suspension swap? it'll fit, but hang out a long ways. I just put 215's on mine and they barely fit in the stock fenders. I'll check out your channel, but please update here from time to time. We're an amazing resource. Phar
  11. Pharaohabq

    Nicksoccer22's Build's

    Seattlejester has the right idea. But keep in mind it's quite possible that you've got shorts too, so when testing continuity on "hot" wires eg, from fusebox to the headlight, Use the FSM (Xenons30) to make sure you're following the correct wire, but test not only the wire, but also test to ground. That'll tell you if it's shorted too. Being that your harness was hacked and burnt, I'd suggest you pull a donor harness and use that, or get the Painless repacement harness. That'll save you a massive amount of headache. Phar
  12. Pretty cool! How'd things go when you picked it up? 2012 + 6 years to buy it back is a good 20 years. A lot can happen in that time, especially the price of parts. If the body didn't rot out while it was sitting then you should be able to fully restore it. I'd love to find my 260z from when I was 17, but I'm sure it's long long ago been gone and rusted away, crushed or whatever. You haven't posted here since July so I'm not sure if you're going to see this, but I'd love to see some "now" picts, since we've seen the "then" picts. Let us know if you have any questions on where to get the missing parts/repros. Phar.
  13. Pharaohabq

    Driveshaft is Stuck Good

    ANother Way I've got those stupid nuts loose was to wedge the tire iron in the Ujoint, and the other end up on a block to hold the drive shaft from turning. Then put a box end wrench on the nut, and use a jack on the other end of the wrench to turn the nut. The nuts will just pop loose and you can then get a rachet on them. Make sure you're turning the right direction! All this or a decent impact wrench and an extension will also pop them loose if you can get on it. you might have to pull the shaft from the tranny to do that, and that's really hard with the Diff still connected. The Ujoints aren't that hard to find. They ARE user serviceable, but any drive shaft shop should be able to do that job for you easier. I seem to remember it was a pain to pull the cups
  14. Pharaohabq

    Reviving #5837.

    Thanks, yeah I was thinking to JBweld it, but I might just drill that section and thread in a bolt since it's in an area where it was rubbing on the Belly pan. I'm adding a rubber bumper to keep it from flopping around. the stock mount is 1/2 torn through. Anyhow that's here nor there, and not really related. So back to what is. (again Pictures are forthcoming. I am trying to locate the usb3.1 roundy cable for my camera. ) So I'd left off after swapping the Brake MC and Clutch MC, The Clutch slave rubber line leaks, I just have to get back to that since I was waiting on parts. I went to check the wheel cylinders since the Brake MC is just pushing fluid. Looking under the car I can see fluid running out of the passenger side rear brake, so I jacked it up this past weekend, and put it up on stands, and pulled the wheels off. 240Z's have rear drums as you know, and I could see fluid dripping out of the drum. it was stuck on hard, (this is common, you just need the BFH to get it off) So a few whacks with the BFH and the drum comes loose. (oh another tech tip, a 4x4 block will allow you to use a claw hammer to lever the drum pressing against the strut. ) but suprise! when I pulled the drum off, There was NO SHOES, no hardware, nothing, they had sometime before yanked the shoes for some reason. (note Ebrake cable rusted through) so yeah, it was leaking because the cylinder had nothing behind it. No big deal, except the brake hardware kit is online order only, so that and new shoes will show up this week sometime. I pulled the wheel cylinder and the rubber line since I have a replacement. The hard line was frozen at the cylinder so I pulled it too. I was supposed to remove the bleeder valve but it just snapped off when I tried to turn it. not good With the cylinder out, I took a closer look. The rubber didn't "look" bad, but it was brittle. Fortunately I planned on rebuilding it. The Cylinder itself was frozen in there with hardened fluid. Not a good thing. I'm going to need to flush all the hard lines. I wedged the cylinder out and it didn't look too bad, but not too good either. New 240z drum cylinders are out of stock everywhere you look so it's either fix these or find something newer. I inspected the cylinder and piston and fortunately it was just gunked up but not pitted. So I started with oil and 400 grit paper, then 600 grit paper and smoothed the inside of the cylinder out, visually there's some staining, but it's nice and smooth. I cleaned it with brake cleaner. rubber gloves were difficult with the sandpaper. once I was happy there it was time to look at the bleeder that snapped off. it looks like it was overtightened at one point. Sucky part is it's two angles off from square. I pulled off the other rear wheel, and pulled off the Drum, Tada! brake shoes, no matter, it's getting replaced. New shoes are $20. so I took it all out and pulled the wheel cylinder. This one wasn't leaking, but also had no fluid in the line, so that's interesting. It's a lot easier to pull it without brake fluid everywhere. I took that one back to tthe bunch, and yup, frozen like the first. I wedged out the piston, same deal, cruddy put not pitted. so back with the oil and sandpaper. I wire brushed all the outside. The Ebrake adjuster was frozen in place too, but a couple taps popped that out. I put it in the vice and estimated the angles on the bleeder valve. Then I tried to match these up on the first cylinder on my drill press. I slowly drilled out the snapped off bleeder valve then went in with the right thread tap, fortunately I was close enough that the old threads popped loose and pulled out. A few times in and out, and I could knock the last of the old bleeder remains from the hole. I swapped over the good bleeder and it seemed to fit perfect. but that was a pucker moment since I don't know where I'd find another cylinder. I had to clean out solidified brake fluid from all the passages with a piece of wire, and I blew out all the crud. The Ebrake adjusters were cleaned out, and greased, the little bolt has reversed threads, so don't lose that I cleaned up the piston and with a little oil pushed on the new rubber. The new kit fit well. The little spring is important though I don't know exactly what it does. I haven't put pressure in these yet, since I don't have the new shoes yet, but I'm looking forward to it. I'll put these back in, get them connected, then when the new hardware shows up I'll close both sides back up, put on a new Ebrake cable and then look into the front. If the rears are this bad, I expect the front Calipers to be in not so good shape. Though Those are still availible so I'd just swap them out along with the rubber lines. Look I added the pictures! Phar
  15. Pharaohabq

    S30 Rear Diff Details

    Okay, Whatever, my point is that a short nosed Diff can and has been done. Maybe I had the name of the mount incorrect, but I only knew it as an RT mount. If RTz would comment then we'd know. Until then I'll stick with my shortnosed plans.
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