Zoldman

I just finished the JTR LCA mount relocation and installed poly bushings. All went fine, so I lubed 'em up and bolted everything together. The bushing are real a real tight fit and it takes some effort to move the control arm through its range of travel. Not "leaning on it, vein popping" effort, but the arms will not fall on their own if you pick the corssmember off the ground. No real rough spots in the travel, just a consistent resistance. Just wondering if this is ok, or should they move up and down easy; like fall on their own from the top?? Thanks for the help Bill

I believe the part number is CC5, but you will also have to specify port type and collector size. JTR sells them cheaper to us HyBridZ people than Sanderson does; and they usually have them in stock.............

I just went through fitment issue with Sanderson headers that I bought from JTR for my Air Flow Research 195cc LT4 heads. This is not a JTR issue, by the way. It is an aftermarket head issue. JTR sent the right stuff and got it to me real fast.........good service from them. The part number from JTR is Dat-402C and Sandersons numbers is CC5. They are the best looking, tightest fitting blockhuggers I have ever seen, and they fit the stock LT1 heads perfectly. They bottom of the collector is angled toward the oil pan, which makes the exhaust guys job a little tougher, but not insurmountable. They are real D Port and match the heads perfectly. Unfortunatly, I have AFR heads, and the two inner tubes hit on the outer lower edge of the head casting. I called Sanderson and talked to Tony, who was very helpful. He said that this is a common problem with aftermarket heads because while they follow the intake pattern of the stock heads very well, they all seem to do their own thing on the exhaust side. This causes all kinds of fitment problems, as both Pete and I are experiencing. I am grinding the edge of the head casting to keep the tubes from hitting; it only needs a 1/16 or so. There is plently of meat on the casting, so this isn't a problem, but was/is frustrating. Keep after it, Pete, if I can figure it out, I'm sure your solution will be even better! Bill

In '95, the Z28 LT1 was OBD1, but GM used an OBD2 connector for the ALDL port......go figure. Check your PCM part number; it should be 16188051 (if it is from a '95 OBD1 Camaro). Bill

Hey all, I'm redoing my steering rack and found that both the steering u joints on my 260 are stiff and have a "grinding" action to them. There is one at the rack and one mid way up the steering shaft. I can't find any in the MSA and Victoria catalogs, but I'm hoping someone has dealt with this before and found a replacement source. I searched on "steering u joints" and got no answers. Anyone have a solution? Thanks Bill

Plame is not a covert operative, and has not been overseas within the five year window that the law proscribes. She is a desk bound analyst at CIA headquarters who put in a good word with her CIA bosses for her unemployed hubby (Joe Wilson) so he could get a little job. He repaid her kindness by coming home from Niger and acting as if he was now the world's authority on Saddam and his nuclear program. He went before every media outlet that would have him and proclaimed that although Dick Cheney had sent him to find the goods on Saddam, he was exposing the lies that Cheney and Bush were foisting on an unsuspecting public. Dick Cheney never sent him, doesn't know him, and wouldn't have sent a well known leftist in any case if he wanted a "whitewash" of the situation. Rove did not "out" Plame, he was answering a reporter's question about why Cheney would have sent Wilson, who was known to be unfriendly to the Bush administration. Rove replied that he had it wrong; Cheney did not send anyone to Niger. He told the reporter that Wilson was sent by the CIA, likely due to the fact that his wife worked there and got him the job. He was trying to keep this reporter from publishing a false story, not expose a "covert operative" who isn't covert and isn't an operative either....... You can hate Rove, his boss, and all the rest, but get the facts straight. That means don't listen to anyone who has an agenda, which is everyone in Washington, on the right or the left. They would all sell their mothers for another 10 points in the polls. Bill

The only car the LT1 engine was available in for 1992 was the Corvette. If you engine did not come from a Corvette, it isn't an LT1; and is most likely an L98 TPI engine. From the compression ratio you mentioned, I would think it is an L98. The LT1's were either 10.5/1 or 10.8/1. The easiest way to check is to find the distributor. If you can't find it where a regular small block Chevy has one, it could be an LT1, since the LT1 used the Optispark distributor that is mounted behind the water pump. If you can post a pic of your motor, I'm sure someone can identify it for you. Bill

Wheelman, You are correct about the Arizona Z spring rates. I chose the 260/280 set, which is 180f/200r, and think they're fine. Ride height is perfect. On a bad or scalloped road, the car rides pretty harsh, but its not supposed to be the family sedan........and I find that a little extra throttle gets the car up on top of the bumps where it rides real nice. The Arizona 240 160f/180r springs would probably be ok too, but I wonder if they might compress enough to lower the car too much for speed bumps. Like I say, I like mine just fine. Bill

Wheelman, I ditched the Tokicos and went with Arizona Z Car "280Z Sport Springs". They are 180 lb front and 200 lb rear if I remember correctly. Ride height is perfect. I would post some pix but car is not here this week. Bill

I'm having a custom tank built for my 260, and want to increase the capacity of the tank. I've looked at swaps and cells, but I've got a friend who will make me an all aluminum tank cheap. Anyone with custom tanks or fuel cells or swapped tanks have an opinion on the minimum height that the bottom of the tank should be from the ground? Right now my calcs put the bottom of my tank at 9", which is an inch higher than the bottom of the diff.......should be ok, right? Tank should hold about 19 or 20 gallons. Thanks Bill

Wow, A pic of this would be great. I hate trying to shut my doors; its almost an Olympic event. Bill

I like the sound of that idea, too. Pix please??? Thanks Bill

If you have one of the Edelbrock Quadrajet type carbs, the most likely culprit is the spring tension on the secondary air door. If the spring is too loose, when you jump on it, the door opens too quickly and causes the engine to go real lean, giving you the infamous "Quadrabog". If you keep your foot in it, the bog goes away as the engine spools up, but all of your momentum is killed. You also might have incorrect primaries and a too lean secondary rod set. If you know the model number, I will see if I can find you a set up guide for your carb that can help you get it right. Give me as much info as you can. The Quad is a great street carb if it is set up right; better than the Holley in my opinion for dual purpose (both street and strip) use. Good Luck, Bill

I'm going the same route for my someday to be LT1 powered car. What carb pump do you guys run to fill the surge tank? I only ask because most of the ones I have seen/heard are very noisy and the thing will be running all the time. The Holley Red/Blue is especially loud. There are different types, I hear, but I don't know how to identify them. Bill

Looks like when my LT1 engine is installed, if I use head studs I will have to remove the brake booster and master to slide the heads off. So, common sense says to use head bolts instead. But, I have always used studs, being told by big time engine builder when I was just learning that studs are far superior in strength and also tighten down much more uniformly which is real important on aluminum heads. ARP does sell head studs in higher rated materials than the bolts, and their info seems to push studs also. Anyone have an opinion on this?? Once the heads are on, I don't want them to have to come off again, but things do happen......... Bill

Wonder how much he wants for it?? I think I'm afraid to ask............. Bill

If you get your Turbo thing figured out, I've got a '72 i might be willing to part with. It was going to be my Hybrid project, but I fell into another and it is just sitting........I hate to sell it, but don't know when I'll get time to work on it. Let me know via email if you want to talk. Bill

Looking' good! Did you use the JTR crossmember spacers, or leave them out? Bill

Me likee...... There's nothing that can't be fixed using the awesome power of the human intellect. Of course it helps to be really pissed off and have some large power tools..... Looks good; let us know when she's rollin'. Bill

Bill, A.G. is right on here. If your mounts are slotted, you should be able to move the end of the tailshaft back to the passenger side (right) and get it parallel. You will still have some up/down angle between the trans and diff, but that is what u-joints are for, although you should shim and correct the trans height till you minimize the angle. Bill (also)

Oops, I mean 423 grill..............

Jamie, What's a 423 grill? I've been wanting a different look, do you have any pix or know where I can get a look at one? Thanks Bill

Thanks to everyone who posted. I swapped out the steering wheel for the stock unit, and adjusted the preload on the rack. It is quite a bit better now, but ain't no way its "palm of the hand" easy. I'm swapping out the 305 that's in it now for an LT1 so when I get the old motor out, I'm gonna pull the rack and take it apart. My guess is it needs a going through. By the way, the motor is in the JTR position, the steering arms are stock size, and yes, I probably need to build up my arm muscles........ Thanks again Bill

Good idea, I am going to swap steering wheels and see what happens. As to how much difference it could make, see the answer Cyrus posted, it looks like it will make a big change. Stock wheel is close to 16". Bill

Cyrus, Wheels are the 15 X 6 Datsun "Swastika" units from 280 ZX. Offset is supposed to be +12mm. Ok, the Grant has got to go...............any other ideas? Thanks Bill