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DomiNATE

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About DomiNATE

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    Guns, cars, video games, snowboarding
  1. Cool thanks. I'm friends with a snap-on guy so he let me borrow one of their Mobius(?) scanners which looks like it can do a ton of stuff. I'll findings when I get a chance to mess with it.
  2. Thanks. Is there a Ohm sensor brand or meter you recommend? I’m not familiar with them. I’ve already replaced both o2 sensors with the newest Delco ones so I think they’re right. They had different part numbers because one has a longer wire than the other but that shouldn’t matter right? I THINK this issue started because when i got the car the sensor was mounted in a way where the wire rubbed the frame and it wore through the wire. Even after replacing them both I still get this code. I forget which bank and stream the more comprehensive scanner showed as being dead. I could use advice one a good scanner as well.
  3. Thanks for the tips So I changed the spark plugs to new E3 plugs and got an all new set of MSD 8.5 plug wires and installed them, they were the same plug wires as before but one was different and damaged. I cleared the P1054 o2 sensor code, fired it up and the car ran great. No hesitation or anything. I took it for a ride to the grocery store and things were great. On the return trip the check engine light came back on however the car seemed to continue to perform well. I stopped at the end of my street and let it rip before I got home and all seemed well. The code was the same P1054 code. My diablo scanner doesn't tell me much, just says, "o2 sensor no activity" or something. I need to get a more comprehensive scanner when I get some money saved up. I'm going to consider that o2 sensor code a ghost or glitch in the matrix unless I notice a drop in performance.
  4. Hope everyone is well. I've learned a bit since my last post about my issues but I'll explain where I'm at. My car 280z with a 99' firebird LS1 and a 4L60E trans is constantly getting getting a P1054 error code (checked with a diablosport intune, i only use it to check for codes, I need a more comprehensive scanner). When the code/check engine light comes on the car seems to lose power/struggle and miss when I hit the gas, just makes a bunch of racket, it gets around ok if I don't hit the throttle too hard. I made it to the gas station about 2 miles from my house today and the symptoms popped up, I've made it 20 miles to a car meet 100% and then on the way home from the meet the symptoms return. I'm open to suggestions of what to do. Now if you feel like reading, here's what I've done... 1. When I bought the car it didn't want to start but when it did, it got around. After scanning it a Cam sensor code came up. Turns out the Cam and MAP sensors were UNPLUGGED. Plugged them in and the check engine light went off for about two days and now I'm basically having the same symptoms I am now. (i drove the car 150 miles to OCMD like that btw before I knew those sensors were uplugged) 2. Talked to a friend who's done a few LS Swaps and gave me some things to trouble shoot. First I relocated the 02 sensors directly under the header collectors, they were about a foot down the pipe in what he described as a lazy installation. 3. My symptoms made him think the car might be starved for fuel (hesitating and struggling under load on the road) so I inspected my fuel system. The main fuel line on the car appeared to be a braided 5/16 line and it was kind of a mix of sizes to get it plumbed between the fuel tank and the pump. The car also had an MSD fuel pump rated up to 40psi... I thought I hit the jackpot... I ordered the complete PSI Conversions LS Fuel kit (25' of line, proper fuel pump *Much quieter than the MSD piece of crap*, fuel filter/regulater and all the 6AN fittings your heart could desire. Finished the install this week and fuel pressure at idle improved from 58 to 61psi. But after all that, here I am, still chasing this stupid issue. Here is where I'm at... I currently have the spark plugs out of the car to inspect them and the wires. They are all an MSD wire/boot (gray/black) set specifically for an LS but one has brown boots and is visibly torn at the plug connection so I'll definitely replace that. The plugs look ok and are NGK TR55 gapped between 55 & 60. I don't see any obvious problems other than that boot. Was googling for the correct spark gap and found this update for the Spark Plug Wire Gaps https://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-J-171.pdf Well I just looked up my plugs and TR55 (gap at 60) plugs ARE NOT listed as being specifically for my year motor however some old ass LS1.com thread had guys in 2008 running the TR55 on their 99-02 firebirds. The 3 plugs on NGK's website THAT ARE what they sell for the 99' V8 all say to gap them at 40. Perhaps NGK made the adjustment to their website a long time ago when the service update was released. Is it possible I'm over gap and having misses and that's throwing the o2 code because of improperly burnt fuel on the 02 sensor? or would the the computer throw a different code? I'm not sure how specific or complicated ECU's will throw codes. I literally might just have the wrong plugs in my car... Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  5. (Sorry on my phone) Rebeckah you are right about the diablo handheld storing tunes, it will actually let you build and modify them too. I messed with it a little but decided not to install anything new because i immediately hit acronyms i didn't recognize. Either way i'm not going to do it myself for the first time. In reality this diablosport tuner was free but i'm not pressed to use it. It's possible the previous owner got it because of its flexibility, i think he wanted to do as much as possible himself. I think he maybe installed a stock tune and modified it himself. Rebeckah you mailing away your ecu was the same thing that i ended doing with my motorcycle. Worked out pretty well for me. I think i found a shop that can help me out in a week or two that's close by. Can't get it checked out before ocean city MD cruiseweekend but it should be alright. Not totally sure if the car is just going to throw codes or if it actully has a less than ideal tune but we'll see in a couple weeks. Ihiryu and rebeckah, the first shop i went to explained it the same about the HP credits vs the diablo software, it just sounded foriegn two days ago, much better now that i can read what you typed. I'm not sure what software this new shop will have but that would be interesting to see if an economic and racey map could be built and saved, not sweating it though since it's a stock motor. It does have like 2.5" headers into 1 3" pipe out the back, that's about all the mods to the motor as far as i know. The car does have the exhaust sniffers so i feel like it shouldn't be too complicated. Thanks a lot for your experiences. I'll let you know how it goes in a couple weeks.
  6. Hi guys, This fuel injection stuff is new to me... I'm trying to get my car's fuel injection/computer checked out before Ocean City Maryland cruise weekend this weekend but I'm about out of time. The car runs ok but it's not 100% and I want to at least have it checked out. The motor is a stock 99' firebird LS1 and the previous owner gave me his Diablosport Intune. I tried to mess with it a weekend ago but didn't really get into it. I spoke to a local shop Friday and apparently a newer guy answered the phone and said they could plug it in and check out it. I get there today and he's not there and the owner tells me it's not that simple, says they sell diablosport but they don't really tune them, more into HP and SCT (Brands I guess). He says if I know the computer's serial number that helps and they'd need three days to get a new map built. I don't know if I need all that right now but just wanted it to get checked out. I couldn't find my Intune tuner before I went there which didn't friggin help but then of course I found it immediately when I got home. I think I'm going to try and mess with the tuner myself again. It looks like you can do a ton of stuff with it but it was a little hard with the small screen. I immediately hit an acronym I didn't understand last time i messed with it and I only have a quick start guide, I'm going to get in touch with Diablosport soon and see if there is a glossary or more detailed instruction manual and ask them if they know any shops that actually tune rather than just sell their product. Does anyone have any Diablosport experience or know any shops in Maryland that might be able to help me out? Either way I'll post any progress I make. Take care fellas. P.S additional reading if you want. My fuel injection experience is limited to my 2010 Ducati Hypermotard 796. Years ago I installed a full exhaust on it and purchased a Bazazz piggy style back ecu for it (like a power commander). Well that turned into a crapshoot. The Bazazz units apparently don't talk well with the stock Siemens computers on those bike's, I needed to get my ECU reflashed for it to work together which is what I thought I was avoiding. A new fully tunable dedicated ECU is twice the price which is why the piggy-backs are attractive but after reflashing the ecu and you're spending the same money anyways so I screwed myself. I went back and forth with my shop and Bazazz and got annoyed with Bazazz and ended up telling the shop (Ducpond) to pull off my tuner and send the stock ECU to Redline in Virginia to get a flash and dedicated map installed on it for a similar exhaust, the bike has run pretty well ever since. Anyways I don't think or don't know if I'm in a similar situation to my Datsun's ls1 right now. Why does it matter if I go somewhere who can or can tune Diablsosport stuff. Is it something with the car's OBD port that's now proprietary to the Diablosport tuner? I thought any shop would be able to plug into my car and check out the fuel injection. I'm a bit confused obviously but I'll learn this stuff soon here.
  7. Im back

    Bring it to the Church of the Holy Donut and if I get out of bed early enough I'll see you sometime. I remember your Z from a few years ago. Neat to see the history of that car here.
  8. Great job looks awesome. Just found you on Instagram.
  9. Hi guys, To call this car MY build would be a blatant lie but I just bought the car from the last owner who did a really fantastic job until he had to let it go. The car is almost road worthy so it's at the shop getting some stuff done that I can't really do at my own home. I'll give you some details of the car and where I'm at as well as a few questions I have. I'm new to the Z car world so I'd love some comments and suggestions. The car is a 75' currently with a 99' firebird motor and what might be the matching (rebuilt) 4L60E transmission. It has a new PSI (performance systems integration) wiring harness and is clean as a whistle under the hood. https://www.psiconversion.com/ It has Dapper Lighting headlights. https://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/projector-headlights/products/7-classic-projector?variant=25175027336 Z Store front air dam http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02a01b Custom shop American Racing Wheels. 17x9 and 17x9.5 Brand new Continental Extreme DWS tires 245/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear Techno Toy (T3) front control arms, camber plates and coil overs. Rear coil overs only, the rest of the rear is stock (for now) https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z Brakes are Silvermine Motors SMALL caliper brake kit http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/brake-upgrades Exhaust from the headers is 2.5" into one 3" pipe with a magnaflow muffler on the back. It has Lotus Elise seats and new Autometer guages. The Dash cover and door panels are also new. The last owner did a great job in my opinion up to this point but there's still stuff to do. The car has an ATV battery that needs to go, it is in the original battery location and I would like to keep it there for now. The ATV battery seems to not have the cold cranking amps to power everything at start up, I have no doubt it worked fine for him in warmer weather but it seems to be failing to turn the motor and power the fuel pump at the same time. What batteries do you guys recommend that fits in the stock battery area and what are you using for retention? I also need some recommendations on what to do with the rest of the console. The top 3 gauges are for Fuel, Temp and Oil Pressure. I have a Volt gauge that I could put in one holes in the console but I'm not sure what to do with the other one. Same with the square lights. No rush on this though. What do you think?
  10. LS1 Car Club! Post yours!

    Hi guys, New to the Z world, I just bought this car from a gentleman in Illinois. Seemed like he really cared about the car but had to let it go. I'm not sure if he was a poster on this forum but he did mention it. It's a 1975 280z. Most of this is quoted from the seller's listing. There's a lot more to say but here's the meat and potatoes. 1. 1999 GM LS1 from Trans Am with 118,000 miles, GM unlocked computer, PSI Conversions harness New water pump, oil pump, timing chain, starter, rebuilt injectors (Oside Tiger), fuel pump (MSD), fuel regulator, (Corvette regulator and filter) Sanderson ceramic coated headers, MSD plug wire with heat boots, braided AN fuel line, PSI harness,new valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, silicone intake hoses, K&N filter, LS6 converted valley cover, new starter 3” into 2.5” all stainless, tig welded exhaust with Vibrant resonator and Magna Flow muffler, all connections are V-bands. 2. Professionally rebuilt 4L60E transmission and torque convertor (less than 500 miles), OEM Camaro shifter with custom weldedand smoothed shifter box housed in trans tunnel, custom solid brass shift knob (looks like a manual), shortened shifter, JCI drive shaft, OEM rear end. The rear suspension is stock for the most part with exception of T3 coilovers and all poly bushings. 6. CUSTOM one-off American Racing forged wheels, model VN477, satin black 17x9 and 17x9.5 Brand new Continental Extreme DWS tires 245/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear Custom yellow “continental” tire letters Technotoy Tuning coil overs (front and rear), front lower control arms, TC rods, triangulated front strut bar (not installed) SilverMine Motors Wilwood brake conversion, front and rear, powdercoated red Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve Technotoy front camber plates
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