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I thought I share my Datsun project here. I bought it about year ago from US. I looked car that was not too rusted, was running and cost under 5K. Finally found this -71 240Z from Hollywood. It was little over my budget, but seller was kind enough to drive it so shipping company, so I saved few hundred in there. And there was also lots of new parts included. Car had L28, 5 speed, R200 and Z31 ECU. After waiting two (long) months car finally arrived to Finland and it turned out to be in much better condition that I could never expect. There was almost no rust and car really was in driving condition. I drove few days with it and then teared it apart. And I also sanded it to bare metal. Only welding that I did was fill those side light holes because they are not needed in my country. After that it was time to paint. Painting was done in my own garage where I did small "paint booth". After painting it needed lots and lots of wet sanding and polishing... Previous owner had fitter Eibach springs and Tocico shocks but I wanted it to be lower so coilovers were needed. I bought BC Racing coilovers that were meant for S13 and fitted them to S30. I cutted original shock tubes and welded threaded collars in place of them. S13 camper adjust strut tops were too big for S30 strut towers, so I made smaller strut tops. There is not much camper adjust, but at least some. Previous owner had fit disk brakes to rear and 13/16" MC. I decided to upgrade front brakes with 300mm vented rotors and Outlaw calipers. I also did 5-lug swap using Z31 parts in front and rear hub was redrilled. I have always liked old BBS wheels and bought BBS RM. Wheel were originally 7.5" x 15" and rear wheels were widened 1.25". Interior was in quite bad shape. Seat cover was broked and dash was cracked. I repaired dash with fiber glass and painted it black. Seat was repaired with new covers. New gauges came from Speedhut. I have now driven about 5000km with my Datsun in this summer. Have been in few track days and few car meets. And it has worked perfectly. As for new engine I wanted some modern 6 cyl engine, and though RB25. However those are quite expensive and rare in our country, so I used something totally different...BMW M50B25 with 5 speed ZF310 gearbox. I used 2.8 crankshaft and pistons so engine is now 2.8 instead original 2.5. Also block height is shaved 2mm to get squish height to about 1mm. That shaving also get me 12:1 compression so I am going to use E85. As engine management I am using Megasquirt MS3. And I also have M3 throttle bodies and headers and some hotter cams. Engine is now totally rebuild with new piston rings, bearings, cam chain, etc. During this winter I need to get this engine fitted to Datsun engine compartment and get everything working.
I love V10's so I'd really like to try this conversion in my 260Z, just trying to work out if it would be possible. Engine is a BMW S85 5L V10 from the E60 M5, makes 507hp is stock form, with less restrictive exhaust system and remap up to 550HP is possible, Its not all that heavy an engine, an RB26DETT weighs 255 - 260kg and the S85 weighs around 240kg so it certainly not to heavy to put in a Z. The engine will definitly fit lengthwise but it may be a bit tight widthwise and I'm not sure if the E92 M3 6 speed gearbox will fit in the transmission tunel and the gearstick position looks like it could be quite far back. Only other concerns are clearance of the front crossmember and steering arm. What do you guys think? Heres some photos of the engine in question:
I've been looking at a few different ways to hook up my Volvo Relay / BMW Sensor / E-Fan set up and I've settled on using the CHTS port on my P90 head, as opposed to the thermostat housing. Beforehand, I'd like to ask a few questions in an attempt to avoid any unforseen complications: 1.) The CHTS port is M10x1.5 I believe, and the sensor I'm planning on using is M14x1.5; will there be enough material here to drill and tap to that size? 2.) The sensor I'm planning on using is typically in a wet port; will it give accurate readings in the P90's dry port? 3.) If the sensor will give good readings, would it benefit from some sort of thermal grease (think heatsink grease) being put into the port before installing the sensor? 4.) Which temperature ratings (low/high fan speed) would be more appropriate for a modified (shooting for around 300HP) L28ET; 180/195 Â°F or195/210 Â°F? Thanks in advance!
Hey all I'm at odds with what to decide on doing and need some suggestions (some advice wouldn't be bad either.) Well here's my dilemma; I have a bmw M50B25 out of a 1992 325is complete with everything except the flywheel and clutch in my garage and I wanna know what you guys think of swapping it into a Z would be like or should i just stick to swapping init the L26 with the round top SU's I got with the car? If i were to swap in the M50b25 i would want to run boost on it because stock they can handle a conservative setup of 8-12psi, but the real dilemma is that I'm kinda unsure of the swap because It's never been done before and I don't really want to open up a pandora's box of problems. People have told me that the engine is relatively simple but that's not always the case. Anyways I'd gladly appreciate any input you guys have as to this swap. Oh and the engine itself is a stand alone system so wiring shouldn't be too much of a hassle.