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zredbaron

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Everything posted by zredbaron

  1. Well, I've always had a crack in the iron of one of my exhaust valve housings (still pissed at that %[email protected]! guy), and it's time I rebuild another head. I have an idea of what I want to do, but I figured I consult the experts before I drop the big $$$. And yes, I just spent an hour reading threads. I couldn't find anyone asking questions about setups/uses similar enough to be completely comfortable with just doing it. I did see a lot of profiles that looked like the kind of guys I want to talk to! What I have: 3.1L L28 stoker with triple weber 40mms, Electromotive ignition, and headers of course. I just totally revamped my suspension and brakes. Soon to be: 3.9 or 4.08 R200 with Quaiffe ATB. I will remove my KN chrome filters and replace those pretties with a ram-charge intake. I will use a scoop from the radiator area that will have a pressurizable collector for the carbs. => NA boost. Use: Uh, I'm in the Navy. The car is my wife. Like all good wives, she takes my paycheck while I'm gone, and like a good husband I let her. It runs 110 octane whenever it is driven. (the compression, although unmeasured, is too high for 93) The car is 90% entertainment, something to look forward to when I come home. I intend to kick some ass at autocross and perhaps do a few road race events years down the road. The goal: the best NA engine attainable. Damn the price, whats the best? I've got another, perfect condition E31 head. I planned on rebuilding with that. So I offer the question: is it better to have the high compression of the E31 head? Is the reason most people recommend E88/N42/P90 simply because E31 is so impossible to find and compression is too high for the 3.1L? Given the fact that it will likely continue to drink 110 octane, do the experts agree to go for the compression or is there something I am missing? The head, whichever one I do end up with, will have each head flowed identically and the combustion chambers will be matched. (the goal is 6 identical mini-engines pushin on the same crank. why not? each cylinder has its own intake system separate from the others) I'm currently trying to find the best machine shop in the area of the car (Arkansas) (I know....) As for camshafts...I have wrestled with this for 2 years now. Do I want the nasty cam that has power above 4000 rpm or something more streetable? I have had a hard time. The main concern is that it will require some skill to wield a car constantly above 4k at an autocross. Enter the quaiffe atb and a lot of fun! I am currently leaning toward a less streetable cam (~ .500" lift, 290 dur) since gas mileage and practicality was never what I had in mind. What grinds do you guys recommend for this setup? Any experience would be appreciated! Have any other 3.1L L28 owners regretted a decision with a cam? Anyone love theirs? What was the grind and where did you get it? Thanks a lot, this was a long read!
  2. The Weber short stacks made the most power by about 270 whp. I never swapped any parts. Frustrating day. Showed up with a singing car that refused to sing for the first hour, oddly, and ultimately broke on the dyno while tuning the timing for my initial baselines -- excessive vibrations above 35mph. Never even got a good initial baseline! 🙄 My new driveshaft was installed by a speed shop and my right rear CV axle was also removed and reinstalled in the offseason. They were found loose after I finally demanded to unstrap my Z, and two bolts on my bigger driveshaft lost their nuts today. So to speak. I'll attach media when I am able. I have my suspicions about the dyno itself, nothing but issues with ignition signal today (due to dyno? very odd day). The car was smooth as silk at the top of 4th on asphault... and on the dyno it not only shook itself apart but the ignition was so inconsistent I don't find tuning to be useful on their equipment and doubt I will return. Very cool shop though... just not for my car evidently? Weird. I'll revisit this sometime this summer -- I still need to digest the day. It simply didn't add up from the beginning. For now, I am going to bed and still not attending my first race of the season tomorrow. I've literally made myself sick today. It was all I could do to get the car in the trailer in and out for the 4th time today as a shop with a lift helped me confirm my vibration issues. For now. At least the motor remains stout and sings beautifully on road tests. 🍻 🎻
  3. Only the 47x50mm T3 stacks will be used today, sadly. Mounting issues, had to hack up the set that's by my best guess. (Tall ones wouldn't fit an airbox anyway.)
  4. Well, I may have a decent handle on tuning Webers… But in general automotive proficiency… I couldn't get the 40 mm to run due to user error. I'm not sure what happened Monday night, but on Wednesday night I had a spark plug wire disconnected and didn't notice it. How embarrassing! That's what I get for checking the plugs late at night. I have really awesome jet presets for both the 38 mm and 40 mm venturis. 40 mms like the short stacks so far! Better AFR plot, but perhaps less peak horse power. I've got about 2 1/2 hours of daylight for more testing this morning. Every minute I get done in preparation means more day that we get at the end of the day. More when I got it. Today is looking and feeling like it's going to be a solid day! Video below, while still tuning 40mms last night. 3rd gear. So far it behaves identically to the 36mm venturis in the 40 mm carburetor body, which makes complete sense. Gargly until the cam kicks in... I think the reverb is allowed to travel outside the carb body with wide open venturis. I remember seeing fuel mist in person at the engine dyno. I'll capture it. Cheers.... 🍻☕️
  5. Hey gang. I haven't had much time for road testing the 40mm venturis yet (let alone stacks). Still not driveable, so at present, the forecast is testing via 38mm venturis tomorrow unless I pull off a good tune tonight. I have main jets up to 245 now (!) and with 6 sets of emulsion tubes one would think a solid setup is within grasp. Attached is my tentative dyno flow chart: May 2018 Dyno R&D FlowChart.pdf It assumes unlimited time. I don't yet know if I'll be running 38mm venturis or 40mm venturis or both. At some point I will abandon broad data collection and proceed toward focused data collection. The results will navigate this flowchart, and so will the limited timeline. If half of those boxes have data at the end of the day I'd say that's a win. Any advice or thoughts here is always welcome. Ryan - The electromotive hall effect upgrade instructions are attached. The XDI 200 ($895) would meet/exceed my needs for carburetors, but if I'm going to rewire my ignition... I might as well rewire everything under the hood and integrate all of my fan controllers, etc. into one computer: the GT200 ($1,695!), which would also be forward-compatible with sequential fuel injection one day (should ITBs ever occur on the car). That's an $1,700 upgrade for a TPS at present. For now I'll save my cash and I'm buying the Electromotive loaner XDI unit from them, so I can get out there and race! I may have built a race motor (RIP, RIP...), but I'm a driver first and a builder/owner second. I'm already late to race season as it is!
  6. Also, I road tested the 40mm venturis last night... and they are not yet drivable or able to be dynoed. At first I was discouraged, but then I realized this might mean that they have more power potential than I realize. It must be tuned. With 40mm venturis installed, it was way lean. I was afraid to touch the pedal to get past the "iffy" airflow and into the WOT performance where it was happier (but not happy). In the end, my largest main jets (205) aren't remotely close to being big enough. Choking the Air Corrector down to 145s still wasn't enough for an AFR that didn't make me nervous as all heck. So... in my mind this means one or more of a few things: Loss of aux venturi signal The Weber book notes that jumping from 38mm to 40mm venturi will result in a loss of signal at the aux venturi. I haven't read much carburetor theory about the aux venturi, so I'm not fully sure how this impacts WOT. My impression is the aux venturi serves to assist mixtures at low RPMs and lesser throttle positions. My impression is this is a less desirable drivability issue, but a drag or road race engine would like it just fine! The main jets are just too damn small. More air needs more fuel, duh. More fuel means more power, duh. I would love this to be the fix! Emulsion tube experimentation is in order See aux venturi notes... it's my understanding tubes are for mixing at low RPMs, not WOT. I have 5 other tubes. "Ram" tubes / velocity stacks are now crucial That's the point of Friday, after all... but if I can't safely get on the throttle I have to test at the 38mm level. Cleaning up this increase of air may clean up the signal loss at the aux. venturi. Today I will order more main jets. I'll do more road testing as I'm able. Any experience with 40mm venturis out there?
  7. Thanks Ben! About the T3 stacks - I have both their 47mm and 49mm ID varieties. Do you know the ID of your setup? Since the (Weber) sleeves have an ID of 48mm, the T3 stacks are an exciting wild card to me, because I can also test with / without the inner (Weber) sleeve inserts that will be cut. When I have more time I'll post a table of the impressive list of combinations I will be able to play with. More than I will have time. Fun! Ryan - it's truly my pleasure to share. About the ignition upgrade - I will be calling their tech today. It's not an option for this week or maybe this summer... but I'd love to incorporate a throttle position sensor. I believe that means a TecS is a good option? Not sure. I owe the tech a call about the loaner unit anyway. Would allow software to map both throttle position (TPS) and manifold pressure (MAP). That'd be awesome to pair with carbs set up for WOT but retains driveability across a 5k+ RPM band. I think it can be done. Between fancy fuel, fancy ignition and fancy head work... I think one can have their cake and eat it too. But they might have to have fancy intake and exhaust setups! LOL Speaking of exhaust, I still haven't announced some of the other upgrades. The 3" mandrel exhaust now has two straight-through Magnaflow mufflers in series after the merge collector. The first is 14" and 1/2" thick(14x4), the second is 6" long and 3" thick (6x6). The sound is very balanced. The second muffler, since it is a different shape, attenuates a different sound frequency and it just-so-happened to work out the way I hoped: it didn't muffle the tough, but it did nip the high pitch resonance perfectly. I still prefer it raw -- just remove the exhaust after the merge collector. No hood and no air filters, windows down. Just open air horns and a merge collector. That's my favorite sound. One day maybe late this summer I'll take the car to a drag strip without any exhaust attached... one milestone at a time.
  8. Thanks guys. I'll try and have an IR gun on hand. I had a chance to road tune the 38mm venturis this weekend. It has better mid-throttle response than it has had in years. 190 main jets, F9 Emulsion tubes, 220 Air Correctors. I can actually floor it under 3000 RPM! (Still have to gradually roll-on the throttle, though.) This week's plan: Monday (tonight) Install 40mm venturis (with Weber long stacks) for dyno testing Road tune 40mm venturis, write down jets, air temp, etc. Get a feel for driveability of 40mm venturis with Weber long stacks (ready for baseline dyno data) Tuesday Order more main jets if 40mm venturis are thirsty (I have up to 205 main jets) Fine-tune the throttle linkage synch for dyno testing Wednesday Road test and confirm the jetting again, if the synch was adjusted. Swap to and road test the Weber short stacks, noting if the same jets can be used. Rehearse velocity stack swaps, organize parts, etc. Thursday Backup day for final road testing Stage trailer, fuel and parts Finalize R&D flowchart Friday, May 18 - Chassis Dyno @ 9am PST I'm allowing myself to feel a little excitement. Trying to allow more.
  9. I also omitted that I had two techs helping me the first day, a general mechanic and an electrician. My lithium battery didn't survive their techniques, despite me highlighting bold warnings from Braille (the battery manufacturer). I was arguing with experts in their back yard, and I've previously been burned by my ignorance / arrogance (having gone down similar roads in the past). This time, I was the expert. I had technology they didn't have an education on, and I was the one that read the manual. They were good guys, genuinely trying to help. Expensive battery, made to order, ships via ground only. Sometimes the story just hurts so damn much you don't want to say it out loud. Especially when you were right but allowed wrong to happen. Always go with your gut.
  10. Agreed! Simply stated, this dyno session is for data about stacks, so I and others can select appropriate parts for our application(s). (It is explicitly not a dyno session to dial-in "my" engine.) (Is it even mine? John Coffey's head and cam R&D, Jim Thompson's work, Joe Harlan's work, and "my" combination of go-fast parts that others invented or recommended.) I don't know if I will still be using the Electromotive loaner unit, my old unit or a new-to-me unit. So... for the purpose of venturi comparison, I will do a few pulls at the beginning of the day with the Weber long stacks and refine my timing knobs for the baseline setup. I don't anticipate revisiting timing, as I don't anticipate having much spare time. The XDI ignition doesn't have a TPS input, but I do have a MAP sensor installed. It's been hooked up for years. I don't notice much difference when it is unplugged (I do have a lot of cam overlap, after all), but then again I haven't unplugged it in years. It's worth a revisit. A waveform is a waveform. If the peak high and peak low is sufficient, then, depending on circuit design, a crude waveform will easily become a clean square wave. (This doesn't mean it sees a consistent frequency.) The integrated OPAMPs within the Hall Effect sensor do help clean up waveforms, but the tech seemed to think the later model likely worked due to the upgraded onboard signal logic. It does some intelligent filtering also. [Electromotive final analysis still to come.] This is a very painful and long story. I missed two race weekends, an engine dyno and my first ProSolo because I refused to "just put the mechanical pump back on." This is still quite abridged. Car wouldn't start. Autometer gauges didn't pass their startup test with key in IGN position. Unplugging a spark plug wire and connecting a spark tester (term?) to ground revealed the coils were firing, with crank at rest. Unplugging water pump immediately stopped the sparking. No water pump: gauges pass startup tests, car fires right up. Plugging water pump back in and unplugging mag sensor also stopped the sparking. Moving the mag sensor around the engine bay resumed sparking if mag sensor was within about 6" of either the pump or the damper (the damper is magnetic, therefore it builds up a field, also). Placing shielding between the sensor and the pump was effective with mag sensor in hand, but ineffective with mag sensor installed. (I spent a lot of time on shielding attempts, trying to MacGyver my way through the weekend.) The solid damper (BHJ?) truly exacerbated this field condition. Shielding attempts would delay the onset of when spark would occur. Depending on shielding, sparking would delay 10-90 seconds even. (With the 12A pump running.) I'm not an electrical engineer, but this is definitely indicative of a buildup of inductance, I reckon. (My theory: shielding is impossible. HAS to be solved by Hall effect / chip logic, etc. Why? The engine block is a big piece of iron electromagnet.... big magnets take more energy / time to build a field. Shielding slows it down but since pump is installed metal on metal to the engine... shielding can't help you.) Calling Electromotive resulted in "oh yeah, that's why we made the Hall Effect sensor, part no...." Part arrived. The instructions indicated those with "serial numbers less than..." were to call Electromotive. I called Electromotive. "You have to send us your unit and we can modify it to be compatible with a Hall Effect sensor." I send my unit to them, they send it back. Mod doesn't work. Mag sensor doesn't work anymore either. They overnight me a loaner unit. Doesn't work at first, but it was my fault this time - the jumper wasn't fully seated. (the later serial numbers allow Hall effect sensors by installing a jumper. earlier models like mine need to be opened up and hacked.) Sure is nice when stuff just works and your car just fires right up when it's supposed to! Thanks Leon! You've already been of influence. Speaking of engine temps... my engine keeps pretty consistent temps. It's running the 10qt oil pan from DRP and the aluminum radiator from Arizona Z with dual fans. On the road and at events (doesn't idle very long), the water runs at whatever temperature I set the thermostat. Dyno pulls with electric fans only is another story... I seem to recall it needing to cool down in Portland now that you mention it. EDIT - How does one monitor under hood temps? Such as the intake manifold and carburetor bodies. Ideas or experience? Heat gun on a few areas?
  11. Thanks Leon, good feedback. Your profile slogan is particularly on cue here. Hah! I've prepared ahead on the swapping parts routine, definitely changed my hardware and tools in the process. Jon M and Joe H can attest that I've learned the swapping parts lesson a couple of times now. Clearly didn't learn the first time. Feeling confident this go-around. Good call on the tire pressures! I likely would not have thought of that. I'll be sure and warm up the drivetrain as I arrive, too. I'll also take a log on temperatures as I am able. I'll print a table. Everything will be with an informed grain of salt; at least it's the same car on the same dyno, same day. Agreed, there will not be enough time. But, I can certainly say there are enough variables that I won't lack for options to follow hp/torque or data collection. I imagine my plan of attack will adapt as the day unfolds.
  12. Hey gang. The bad news: Surprise! Dyno dates postponed two weeks to May 18, 2018 due to unforeseen challenges. The short version is that I upgraded my mechanical water pump to an electric water pump, and the EMF (electromagnetic field) was passed through the damper and felt by the crank sensor 8 inches away. The ignition system would spark with the crank at rest and water pump running, so starting was impossible. The solution was to upgrade the magnetic pickup to a powered hall effect mag sensor, which doesn't get fooled by ambient signals as easily. The abridged long version is a two week saga with Electromotive (A++ field support!), in the end sending me two hall effect sensors and a jumper for the computer module that didn't work. I sent them my unit, they opened it up and upgraded the hardware to allow for hall effect sensors and sent it back to me, but it still didn't work. They ultimately sent me a loaner ignition module that fired right up. Evidently my early-model XDI had an onboard logic chip that was only a part of the early serial numbers of the XDI. This is actually my third Electromotive module, having owned the HPV-1 and HPV-X in the past. I'm very loyal to their technology and product, especially after their A++ service these two weeks! They may or may not have overnighted the loaner unit to me on a Saturday, and called me proactively on that weekend. Wow! (I mention this not to suggest others should expect the same level of service, but to remove any doubt as to the reliability of their products-- follow through in the field is how they ensure their technology is reliable. It "should" have been different and they wanted to figure out why! They did. Also: very, very few customers have the early unit I do.) Pics show green and white jumper attempts, the proper hall effect mag sensor, the new loaner XDI module, and the electric pump. The good news: I have SIX SETS of venturis, OH MY! My plan of attack, at Kaizenspeed's dyno, on 5/18/18: Ambitious, as always! Run 40mm venturis (chokes) for all runs When possible, run the same jets... and use the changes in A/F ratio as "apples to apples" O2 availability for combustion comparison. (As time allows, main jetting changes as well... allowing "apples to apples" HP comparison.) Insert sleeves Aftermarket air horns do not slide into the carburetor body. Sleeves are 1mm thick, which is a 2mm difference in ID. The carb body is 50mm OD, expecting the sleeve to be inserted. The Weber sleeves are 48mm ID The Pegasus airhorns are exactly 48mm ID The issue: Without sleeves... diameter goes from 48mm to 50mm (square edge!) and then 50mm back to 48mm (square edge!) Sleeves vs. no sleeves will likely matter. The R&D: My first two velocity stacks will be the Weber long and Weber short Whichever performs less well will be taken a machine shop down the road that morning and cut flush, retaining the sleeves and ditching the velocity stack. Machinist time is prescheduled, and I have a friend as a "runner." This will then be paired with all external aftermarket stacks, same dyno same day. As time allows, I will also compare with and without sleeve for a couple of stacks. Butt-dyno / driveability confirmation Top 2 or 3 also be road tested to confirm mid-throttle torque performance WOT isn't what I am after, in the end. Later this summer, at my engine builder's chassis dyno, timeframe TBD: Compare (top 2?) air horns inside an airbox (still working on my frankenbox, but making progress as I have commissioned some pieces that will be ready this week) Compare 38mm and 40mm venturis -- confirm theories about torque Possibly compare one last air horn design, a stubby shape, also inside the air box. My theories: Aftermarket stacks with sleeves will outperform aftermarket stacks without sleeves. Air horns with sufficient conical shapes ("ram tubes") will accelerate the air enough that "small" venturis/chokes will no longer be necessary to retain low RPM torque. (I have been running 38mm chokes for low RPM torque and drivability.) With different stacks, I expect to see various HP and torque gains across the entire RPM band. With the top stacks, I expect to see negligible sacrifice in torque and uncapped peak HP (possibly not confirmed until later, data TBD). Why am I doing this? Without HybridZ, I wouldn't have the car I have today. Without others having pioneered the way, WE wouldn't have the performance we enjoy today. Without open sharing, neither bullet point exists. Big thanks to the donor(s) so to date! If anyone has any advice, thoughts, experience or requests... please speak up!
  13. zredbaron

    Questions about Auto-X

    I've no doubt you're spot-on! Care to elaborate?
  14. zredbaron

    Questions about Auto-X

    I can also add that once performance driving is tasted in an environment where it is safe to go beyond the traction envelope and spin out without harm.... you'll see the street never could have delivered the goods. "Adulthood" is a different pursuit entirely. ;) [Insert Peter Pan reference.]
  15. zredbaron

    Questions about Auto-X

    Concur 100%. In my experience across several states, Zs only have a chance at truly being competitive in FP. Other classes will have cars that we can't keep up with, if they show up. It's never fun to be the only car in your class and "win." Like all forms of racing, one must maximize class allowances to allow the driver a chance to compete. The S30 just isn't a platform for competition against a modern car. It is however that platform that connects driver to the road most directly. Our Zs are among the most exciting cars to autocross in terms of adrenaline for this reason. Racers with faster times get out of my Z hooting and hollering. I'm with Jon. I target competing against a few cars or drivers. I prefer to have a passenger than drive alone. Why hog the adrenaline? Get in! I pursue excitement. I feel like I win, because I'm driving my dream car since I was 17. And that's my best victory, really. FWIW.
  16. zredbaron

    Questions about Auto-X

    Super Street Modified (SSM) is another class the Z can find itself in. You can have a stroker, add a turbo, even an RB26 swap with huge fender flares. It simply requires a few "street" items like a dash and carpeting. It is the "street" version of X Prepared (XP). Great advice given above. No one will care what class you're in until you win, or unless it is an SCCA club with numerous hall monitors ("fun" police). Pick a class, explain to the club that you're new, and people will take you under your wing and help explain the classes while you walk the course. My advice would be to show up as soon as your car is road worthy. Not competition worthy... road worthy. Seat time is worth quite a lot.
  17. We're back online! Woohoo! I have a lot of updates, such as exhaust and other upgrades... but first, let me get the time-sensitive matter out there on the internet! (I posted the following yesterday on the triple weber thread, believing it to be this thread. Oops. Mostly duplicate content for those of you who are subscribed to both.) Many thanks to the admins for restoring "Reply to Post" functionality! I have been kicking the "chassis dyno R&D" can down the road long enough. I have an appointment for Friday, May 4, 2018, which could get delayed a couple weeks if I am waiting on overseas shipping. Unfortunately, an air box will not be an option for this round of dyno pulls. My custom strut braces have really meaty and obstructive flanges. However, I plan on doing intake volumetric efficiency research with regard to venturi diameters (38mm and 40mm) and the effects of combinations with various velocity stacks ("air horns" / "trumpets"). Here are my top air horn picks I am considering: For testing lengths, I like: http://www.emeraldm3d.com/throttle-body-kits/emerald-adjustable-length-intake.html Ideally, this would give us an idea how length of the air horns affects or doesn't affect performance Dyno will only be valuable for WOT. Butt-dyno runs will also be needed to confirm drivability. I'm told by the vendor this doesn't likely fit the DCOE carburetor internally. :'( Currently awaiting email reply after sending measurements of my Weber "trumpets" (velocity stacks) For testing shapes, I like: https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/air-horns (they recommend their "40mm stack with a 50mm throttle body" - not quite apples to apples) EDIT - if ITBs were ever in this car's future... it appears Jenvey is a quality vendor choice that I didn't know about http://www.palmside.co.nz/product_cid_10899.html (won't ship to USA???) (I really like the flared shape of these.) https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1257 (currently awaiting shipping confirmation from vendor) EDIT - I forgot about Techno Toy Tuning! https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/kgc10/velocity-stacks-carbs I like these flares more than the Pegasus stacks, they seem like they would be more helpful at varying velocities of airflow. These are now my favored single purchase. Any other recommendations or considerations out there? In my mind, a given length is best, and a given shape is best. These are not necessarily mutually exclusive. I predict the adjustable length will show a "good performance range" (but not a clear "winner") and choosing various shapes within this range would reveal optimal combination(s) for a given application and intended usage. Again in my case I seek a wide, flat torque curve and not peak HP. Perhaps the data will be clear, but I'm assuming a butt dyno / road test will likely have to confirm / deny the shape winner(s), especially if some combinations are comparable. WOT hp numbers are not what wins an autocross race. If anyone is interested in contributing their 45mm air horn shape to this shared research, please message me. I would be happy to return them to you after chassis dyno testing is complete. It's likely I will only be able to afford one set of air horns to test alongside the issued Weber air horns. Alternatively, air horns, race fuel and dyno time are effing expensive. If anyone is feeling charitable and wishes to donate some coin, that would be appreciated. This project is financed by credit and cash loans; I'm "all-in" with this S30 project. Maybe some others relate? If the adjustables fit, I will find a way to source them and I will intend to pass them on to another racer in our community. Or maybe my engine builder as another thank you. Some say gains won't be made here. Perhaps in peak hp this is overwhelmingly tried and true, but in terms of area under the curve, I defer to Ferrari and other performance companies who have engineered variable length intakes. If it was a gimmick, it wouldn't be on a supercar. We don't have this data publicly available for our L6s. Let's change that.
  18. We're back online! Many thanks to the admins for restoring "Reply to Post" functionality. EDIT -- I mistakenly thought I was posting the below post to my engine thread. Oh well! It seems appropriate for this thread too. I have been kicking the "chassis dyno R&D" can down the road long enough. I have an appointment for Friday, May 4, 2018. Unfortunately, an air box will not be an option. However, I plan on doing intake volumetric efficiency research with regard to venturi diameters (38mm and 40mm) and the effects of various velocity stacks ("air horns" / "trumpets"). Here are my top air horn picks I am considering: For testing lengths, I like: http://www.emeraldm3d.com/throttle-body-kits/emerald-adjustable-length-intake.html Ideally, this would give us an idea how length of the air horns affects or doesn't affect performance Dyno will only be valuable for WOT. Butt-dyno runs will also be needed to confirm drivability. For testing shapes, I like: https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/air-horns (currently awaiting their recommendation) http://www.palmside.co.nz/product_cid_10899.html (won't ship to USA) https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1257 (currently awaiting confirmation from vendor) In my mind, a given length is best, and a given shape is best. These are not necessarily mutually exclusive. I predict the adjustable length will show a "good performance range," and choosing various shapes within this range would reveal optimal combination(s) for a given application. Again in my case I seek a wide, flat torque curve and not peak HP. Perhaps the data will be clear, but I predict a butt dyno / road test will likely have to confirm / deny the winner(s), especially if some combinations are comparable. WOT hp numbers are not what wins an autocross race. If anyone is interested in contributing their 45mm air horn shape to this shared research, please message me. I would be happy to return them to you after chassis dyno testing is complete. Alternatively, air horns, race fuel and dyno time are effing expensive. If anyone is feeling charitable and wishes to donate some coin, that would be appreciated. This project is financed by credit and cash loans; I'm "all-in" with this S30 project. Maybe some others relate? Some say gains won't be made here. Perhaps in peak hp this is true, but in terms of area under the curve, I defer to Ferrari and other performance companies who have engineered variable length intakes. If it was a gimmick, it wouldn't be on a supercar. We don't have this data publicly available for our L6s. Let's change that.
  19. I've always wanted to see a philosophy thread on HybridZ. It never ceases to amaze me how unique and quirky the Datsun following tends to be... and even more so how much we have in common despite are differences in backgrounds, etc. There are a lot of generalizations that can be made about people drawn to American muscle cars, German performance and luxury, etc. In my experience Z owners tend to be very smart individuals relative to the general population as well as automotive enthusiast groups. (Clearly we have fine taste.) This could go a number of philosophical directions, about kindred human passions, the living spirit of Mr. K, the brand of Datsun's emergence after WW2's bombs, the commonality between Z owners.... you could even present an esoteric possibility such as Z owners' souls tend to come from the same quadrant of the galaxy or something about how HybridZ [sometimes] epitomizes focused, collaborative human achievements. All are of interest to me... but rather than lay my interests and thoughts out, I'd like to ask if others have had any similar observations and have pondered their implications or meaning?
  20. zredbaron

    There is no reply button or box

    Hey guys, it's been a year or so since I've signed on. I'm having this issue also. Oddly, I was about to PM an Admin when I noticed the reply button on this page. It was NOT here yesterday on this PC or on my mobile device....? Weird. Hoping to reply to these topics specifically: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/24798-na-31lhead-camshaft-questions-no-shortcuts-max/?page=17 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/?page=34 Any advice out there? Perhaps trying again randomly? Thanks!
  21. Thank you, gentlemen! John -- the CV axles are from Wolf Creek Racing, and they are a great product. Great to see you're still out there! Ryan -- the muffler is 14" long, and is a 4" diameter (Magnaflow 14419). The "race" muffler option was 6" diameter and 6" long (Magnaflow 14159). Longer mufflers are quieter, despite how thin the first option is. Personally I don't think it's all that loud, I think the muffler does a great job and the exhaust has very little resonance. That said, many of the clubs here in WA have a 96 dB sound limit, so I guess I'll find out one way or the other! I'm close, no doubt. There's room for a 2nd muffler downstream should it come to that. I'm a huge fan of Magnaflow straight-through mufflers. Wonderful, rich tones. I first installed one on my 240Z in 2004. Liked it so much I run dual Magnaflow exhaust on my truck, too.
  22. Chassis dyno and fabrication follow-up from this past weekend. Picked up my car from Portland Speed Industries in Portland, OR. Great shop for fabrication and setup needs! They also have a chassis dyno, so for me, it was a one-stop trip to Portland. Phenomenal work on the 3" exhaust. They mounted the muffler in the transmission tunnel. Not sure why I didn't take a good picture of the muffler itself. The strut bars were what I was looking for, too. I didn't initially imagine the assymetrical shape of the front brace, but after getting used to it, I really like the fabricator's approach. Nice and tight, too. The chassis dyno experience wasn't what we were hoping for. Joe came to help with the tune, and Jon Mortensen came down from Seattle again to see "carb/dyno tuning done efficiently." Unfortunately, the shop had double-booked the dyno and didn't tell me / us. Once my car was on the dyno, the shop manager simply needed help and couldn't be in two places at once. We could have performed our pulls in under 90 mins had he or a tech been at our disposal. Such is life. As for the car... we didn't have enough jets to tune it. The shame! LOL. 65F8 idles were too small for a proper transition. The engine kept leaning out once the cam kicked in above 5000, and we aborted several runs. 185 mains were the biggest I had, and they weren't having much effect. We tossed in the smallest air correctors I had, 145, and surprisingly that dropped us into the operable AFR and we completed a pull. 264 whp, 225 ft-lbs at 6300 so far, with a nice, flat torque curve. Once it gets going! Haha, ugh. Graph attached. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9__Kb_ZBIpY A fantastic start considering the main jets aren't even correct, so nothing else can actually be dialed in, including final timing. I've since reduced the chokes to 38mm from 40mm and performed a road test. Per my wideband O2 sensor, it brought the AFR back in line, no sweat. So... I'll just have to do another chassis dyno for a final tune once I have a sufficient range of jets available. Chassis dyno follow-up will occur within 30 days.
  23. Thanks! Forgot to mention that my electrical issues were twofold.... a fried alternator and a fried hazard switch / pigtail harness. Replacing the alternator and removing the switch + harness restored the electrical system. Jon, I'm thinking I might attend the Saturday practice event and Sunday race in Shelton on Aug 12-13 (Western WA SCC).
  24. Weird, this file didn't want to upload to HybridZ for some reason. YouTube workaround: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cH8EFWg3Ks
  25. Success! After many obstacles... I have successfully road tested my Z and deem it ready for suspension tune and chassis dyno. This Friday I will deliver the car to PSI in Portland for exhaust, strut bars, alignment and corner balance. Aug 11th is my appointment on the chassis dyno! Untuned road-test media attached! Huge thank you to all contributors, most notably Joe Harlan and Jon Mortensen. Thank you all! Rev Limit.mov
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