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3ftyZ

R200 CLSD Pinion Flange questions

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hey guys,

 

I tried searching for the answer to this question and found mixed results.

 

Here's what I'm working with:

 

I purchased a R200 CLSD off ebay,it's the late 80's CLSD, had it serviced and added clutches from Savage a few years back. Now I finally have time to work on the car and I have my old R200 out of the car and have found that the pinion flange on the new CLSD R200 is significantly different than the original R200 (my car is a 73 240).

 

Here's a link with a picture of the new r200 (left), drive shaft (middle) and old r200 (right):

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ilX-RtNz1CMt8XSftEBVuIP_c2oYhsQyJbWzj1heIFM?feat=directlink

 

My questions:

 

1. Can I simply swap the pinion flanges? I read that the nut that secures the flange is also used to set pre-load, etc, so i assume the answer is NO.

 

2. If the answer to 1 is no, then i'll need to have the drive shaft modified for a new companion flange. Whats the best option to purchase this flange?

 

3. Also, I'd like to get some heavy duty universal joints while I'm at it, what do you guys recommend for the pinion/companion flanges and universal joints?

 

4. Since I have the rear of the car disassembled, is there anything I should look for or take care of before reassembly?

 

Thanks!

3ftyz

Edited by 3ftyZ

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Yes, no crush sleeve. Swap, red loctite, and torque to spec, which is something like 135-210 ft lbs.

 

JMo,

 

Is the newer pinion flange superior to the old? It looks beefier and all-around more stout that the original piece. I'd like to use this over swaping as the diff is all setup and ready to go and I'm not confident in which torque specs I should follow.

 

I'd like to find the companion flange to mate to my drive shaft and upgrade the universal joints at the same time, do you have any recommendation on where I can find the correct companion flange?

 

I appreciate all you guy's help.

 

thanks

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I don't think there are a lot of pinion flange failures, but I don't know the ins and outs of pinion flanges. I think JTR and John's Cars might have something for you, as they've been putting these diffs into high powered V8's for years.

 

http://www.johnscars.com/

 

From John's Cars http://www.johnscars...zcar/zcar.html:

Driveshaft: I strongly recommend my special driveshaft adapter that permits using an all GM driveshaft with full size U-Joints on each end. Shortening a GM driveshaft costs $15.00-$30.00. A kluged GM-Datsun driveshaft will cost you $100.00-$200.00 and will be the weak link you want to avoid.

 

Makes sense to me to run an adapter if it permits a full size U-joint. I'm not big on bolting parts onto parts onto parts, but it seems like the U-joint is the most failure prone thing in there, so probably an improvement. I believe stock Camaro uses 1330, which is pretty big compared to stock Datsun.

Edited by RB26powered74zcar
added link for johnscars

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I don't think there are a lot of pinion flange failures, but I don't know the ins and outs of pinion flanges. I think JTR and John's Cars might have something for you, as they've been putting these diffs into high powered V8's for years.

 

http://www.johnscars.com/

 

From John's Cars http://www.johnscars...zcar/zcar.html:

 

Makes sense to me to run an adapter if it permits a full size U-joint. I'm not big on bolting parts onto parts onto parts, but it seems like the U-joint is the most failure prone thing in there, so probably an improvement. I believe stock Camaro uses 1330, which is pretty big compared to stock Datsun.

 

Thanks for the input and advice. I'll reach out to Johnscars.com to see what he's got.

 

What do most people run for their pinion flanges for CLSD conversions? I would have expected my scenario to be quite common.

 

Thanks again!

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If you're putting it in a 240 with an L6, I would guess that the 280Z flange is the most common. If you're putting a V8 in it, I suspect that the John's cars adapter or a fabricated driveshaft with the Chevy front and Datsun rear U/J is the most common.

 

I've already got a 350 chevy in mine and have been running the rear end that came with the car. The guy I bought it from welded the spider gears for drag use and I've been slowly obtaining parts for the CLSD conversion. The unit I purchased is a R200 from an 88 300zx turbo, which I guess explains why its not as common as the others.

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When I switched to the 300ZX CLSD I already had the JTR adapter installed on my driveshaft. So I used the 280Z R200 pinion flange on the CLSD. I am running a modified LT1/4L60E connected to the diff with a shortened Z28 driveshaft and 1320 u-joint. JTR does make an adapter to fit the 300zx inplut flange if you want to go that way.

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When I switched to the 300ZX CLSD I already had the JTR adapter installed on my driveshaft. So I used the 280Z R200 pinion flange on the CLSD. I am running a modified LT1/4L60E connected to the diff with a shortened Z28 driveshaft and 1320 u-joint. JTR does make an adapter to fit the 300zx inplut flange if you want to go that way.

 

Deja,

 

I think this is it:

 

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

 

Thanks~

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So reading these it looks like JTR has a driveshaft flange that fits a 1310 u/j. So if your donor was a Camaro and you had the 1330, then you need to take off the rear flange, get an adapter 1330/1310 u/j and reassemble. The other option is to run 1330's front and back and use John's adapter. That's a real toss up. 1310 should be strong enough, so I'd probably err on the side of not bolting more parts on and running the JTR flange. The conversion u/j is not a problem and they're easy to find.

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Is this the part you are referencing in this thread?

 

The input flange?

post-1894-040424000 1323269750_thumb.jpg

 

Looks different than mine. look at my picture linked above and you'll see my pinion flange is cirlce, not squared off like yours. you may need the '#DAT-110-2.0'

 

I used the "Drive Shaft Adapter Flange. (2 Inch Pilot), for 300ZX Cars. #DAT-110-300ZX" from http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

 

I've put new u-joints in and had the drive shaft balanced and its ready to go back in the z.

Edited by 3ftyZ

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Do you have a pic of the JCR adapter? Just curious if it's what I had envisioned.

 

Here's the only pic I have of it.

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XmUIbyv0rWIe7EZp9HFJq4P_c2oYhsQyJbWzj1heIFM?feat=directlink

 

it's got a SPICER number on it, but I failed to take a picture of that before I assembled the driveshaft and u-joints. I can't read it now that its assembled.

 

I'm not sure if JTR guys modified the part in any way.

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Thanks! So actually I had the JCR part wrong. I thought they were using an adapter that got bolted to the pinion flange and then the stock rear flange. In actuality it looks like what they're selling is pretty much (exactly?) the same as what JTR sells.

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