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LanceVance

P90 CHTS Port + Volvo/BMW E-Fan setup

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I've been looking at a few different ways to hook up my Volvo Relay / BMW Sensor / E-Fan set up and I've settled on using the CHTS port on my P90 head, as opposed to the thermostat housing.

 

Beforehand, I'd like to ask a few questions in an attempt to avoid any unforseen complications:

 

1.) The CHTS port is M10x1.5 I believe, and the sensor I'm planning on using is M14x1.5; will there be enough material here to drill and tap to that size?

 

2.) The sensor I'm planning on using is typically in a wet port; will it give accurate readings in the P90's dry port?

 

3.) If the sensor will give good readings, would it benefit from some sort of thermal grease (think heatsink grease) being put into the port before installing the sensor?

 

4.) Which temperature ratings (low/high fan speed) would be more appropriate for a modified (shooting for around 300HP) L28ET; 180/195 °F or195/210 °F?

 

Thanks in advance!

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So the CTS has dual contacts . Fan operation is base on your T-stat temp. . Use low CTS for low T-stat like 160F . I would go with low temp. here in TX . :icon7:  . What's the fan off temp. ? Didn't see the spec in " Taurus fan " thread .

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180F is low speed and 195F is hi speed ? You have to run T-stat lower than 180F . With out knowing the turn off temp. and if the turn off temp. is lower than T-stat temp. , it could be running all the time once activated . Fan motor(s) won't last long .

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2.) The sensor I'm planning on using is typically in a wet port; will it give accurate readings in the P90's dry port?

 

 

3.) If the sensor will give good readings, would it benefit from some sort of thermal grease (think heatsink grease) being put into the port before installing the sensor?

 

The switch (better word than sensor) will close/open at the same temperature, wet or dry.  Buried in the metal of the head, it will still reach head temperature.  The only effect you might see would be in response time, but probably not significant.  If it was a sensor, being used by an EFI system, the delay might make a difference.

 

Thermal paste couldn't hurt, but thread contact will transfer plenty of energy to the body of the switch.  They're small.  You'll want to verify that the switch closes at the right time anyway, in use, so testing will show what's what.

 

These are just opinions,  I'm not an engineer.

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I've already got a sensor for MS to reference. I'm wanting to keep the radiator fans compartmentalized, and given that the rear of the head runs hot this seemed like the best place to use.

Regarding what switching temperature to use, I think the question you need answered is what temperature is typically measured at the CHTS port when the thermostat housing reads 160, 180, or 195.  This should give you better insight as to what switch to use at the CHTS.  My N42 head doesn't have a CHTS port so I can't help, but it sounds like somebody (Xnke, perhaps?) must have measured this already...

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Put some more thought into this and came up with a different plan of action for everyone to consider/weigh in on.

 

Would there be anything wrong with drilling/tapping the heater fitting (PN. 27195-E4400, I believe) at the back of the head to provide a port for the BMW sensor?

 

IMG_20140720_114758_020-1_zpslegep8x9.jp

 

I'm figuring this should be close enough to the coolant stream, not to mention the problematic rear cylinders to provide an accurate and rapidly responsive reading.

 

...Also, the sensor is rather bulky so hiding it towards the back, angled downwards is an extra plus!

Edited by LanceVance

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Came up with option number 3!

 

This offers the most concealment, and puts the sensor all the way at the back of the head:

1dbc17db099139d0ee51f7c42f3d2931_zps3mal

 

Any reason not to put the sensor in the 35mm core plug at the back of the head? Obviously some care will have to be taken to ensure there are no leaks, but this seems like it checks all the boxes.

Edited by LanceVance

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I too am running a turbo set up 2 aftermarket fans. Mine run all the time switched with the key and no problems. Why not have them run alll the time ? I do have to run them when the car is shut down (also have an electric water pump running

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