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Jboogsthethug

Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build

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here are a few updates on the paint. It's beena  learning experience for sure. I've gotten the engine bay all painted and last night I shot a 2k primer over the car to finish it all up and black out some runs easier. after I block out this primer I'll throw another coat of epoxy over and depending on whether I have to wait for a full day (SPI's tech sheet reccomends a 24 hour wait), I'm hoping to have everything tonight. If I can get away with painting today I totally will.

 

I'm very excited to be at this point, it's been a long time coming. there are definitely imperfections in the paint so far, but I'm happy with what I've learned and accomplished! It's a cool project to have taken on.

 

Close up on color:

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engine bay shots:

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before 2k epoxy:

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after:

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Some more updates:

After painting the 2k primer, I sanded the entire next day and got things smoothed out, threw on another epoxy coat, and then sprayed the base and clear! It turned out overall really good I feel. Definitely not a professional job, a few runs here and there and some orange peel that I need to wet sand down, but overall I'm really happy with it for my first paint job! I think it turned out pretty good. 

 

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This week I am finishing wet sanding, then I am having the windshield  and hatch installed and then I'll install the rest of the windows and door internals, etc. Slowly the ole turd will come back to life!

 

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A little update,

 

A while back I got my windshield and hatch glass installed, a place called precision glass in Layton, Utah gave me a good deal, and I was a bit scared to try and install myself after breaking one windshield already trying to remove it. Here are a few pictures of that!

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I also got my interior painted, rubberized undercoating from home depot. I was skeptical at this because of the dramatic price difference between this and undercoating you'd buy from sherwin williams, but it goes on nice and feels rubbery and solid after drying. My brother in law used it before and says it's good. I'll have to update after some wear and tear in the car!

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I also installed my gas tank door! the paint job on that is substantially better haha.

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Lastly, I bought a black dragon gasket kit. (http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/ZRS1.htm) I'm just wondering how exactly to install the rear quarter window exterior gaskets. You can see that it's a U shaped gasket, with a longer stem on one side, shorter on the other. I'm assuming I glue it to the window trim, longer stem as the outer gasket and the shorter stem on the inside. Like this:

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Is this correct? Am I supposed to glue it to the car? Any tips are appreciated!

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I did get the window weatherstripping glued in and the windows installed. From my experience, two people is a must, or you'll be out there all night. here are some pictures for reference.

 

glued on (you can see the longer part of the U in the gasket went towards the outside of the window). It ends up being a little under an inch longer than needed. try not to stretch it but rather just lay it down or else you might have gaps when installed, especially in the corner (see below)

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let it sit for a day (I have no idea the exact time it recommends) then installed. 

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If you look on the passenger side detail picture, you can see there is a very slight gap where the gasket isn't sealed up completely against the body. I must've gone too tight around that corner when gluing, keep that in mind!
 
 
I got to work last night and installed the trim on the entire windshield and one side of the hatch (it takes forever unless somebody has a better trick to it)
 
I have a small pick set, and after pushing the trim in on one side I pushed it in on the outside first then worked my way down the inside side), I worked slowly using the pick so I wouldn't hurt the rubber. I slid my pick in so it couldn't catch or tear, then I (also making sure it couldn't tear by angling the pick downwards) nudged the small piece of trim up and out. I did this over and over again across the entire windshield.
 
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I also got the rain gutter trim and my front flares installed. The front flares do not fit quite the same after all the body straightening I did after my initial install. Something to keep in mind, not a big deal as I plan on doing other flares most likely in the future.
 

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I forgot but I never did the rivets for the rear flares. I got to work doing that yesterday. I already had the rivet holes drilled, but on a lot of those spots I couldn't fit the rivets in because they'd hit the inner fender. I fixed this by first drilling a small guide hole as centered as I could (going through the main hole into the inner fender). Then I got a larger bit and slowly went through the inner fender from inside the fender well. Be careful with this, that last little bit of drilling it likes to catch and pull through and It also pulled through my main hole. I was using a larger diameter drill bit so it ended up drilling a hole too large and now I'm looking for new rivets that have a larger lip. 

 

I plan on going through and filling those holes with silicone after it's all done.

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Can you put a small washer on the back of the river to cover the hole and grip the fender and flare? We do this at work all of the time with small 1/8" shank rivets and a #6 machine screw washer for thin panels. (Obviously treat the metal around the whole to prevent rust before securing)

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Can you put a small washer on the back of the river to cover the hole and grip the fender and flare? We do this at work all of the time with small 1/8" shank rivets and a #6 machine screw washer for thin panels. (Obviously treat the metal around the whole to prevent rust before securing)

 

I was wondering the same thing, I will try that out, thanks for the tip! and treat it as in primer the spot, or what would you suggest?

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McMaster lists all the detail specs on their hardware with drawings if you click the details link, might hello with finding a washer size

 

Primer- just something to seal the bare metal from the holes and the washer rubbing on the back side to prevent any future rust problems

 

I actually just barely got some parts from there. I'll pick some up later and try them out, thanks for the info!

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McMaster is the best for metric hardware, only comes in boxes of 10,25,100, etc... But so much cheaper per fastener than everywhere else in Utah. Used to be if you ordered before about 2-3pm it would show the up next day from ups without paying for next day shipping. Only time I've paid for next day shipping, the stupid OnTrac shipping guys lost the package between California and Utah. That delayed a big engineering high profile project by a couple days.

Edited by 1969honda

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. Quote

 

I already had the rivet holes drilled, but on a lot of those spots I couldn't fit the rivets in because they'd hit the inner fender. I fixed this by first drilling a small guide hole as centered as I could (going through the main hole into the inner fender)

 

 

Thought I would add my experience with this same situation. On the holes where the inner fender didn't allow the riv-nuts to go in completely, I took a rounded tip punch and taking my time, I put through the outer fender hole and kept tapping and checking until I had it sitting flush. Unfortunately I did punch through on one. But was an easy fix with the mig.

Edited by 88dangerdan

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. Quote

 

I already had the rivet holes drilled, but on a lot of those spots I couldn't fit the rivets in because they'd hit the inner fender. I fixed this by first drilling a small guide hole as centered as I could (going through the main hole into the inner fender)

 

 

Thought I would add my experience with this same situation. On the holes where the inner fender didn't allow the riv-nuts to go in completely, I took a rounded tip punch and taking my time, I put through the outer fender hole and kept tapping and checking until I had it sitting flush. Unfortunately I did punch through on one. But was an easy fix with the mig.

 

Thanks for adding in! Just to make sure I understand correctly, you just basically bent the inner fender inwards in the spots that needed extra room to install the hardware? Like a little cave?

 

 

McMaster is the best for metric hardware, only comes in boxes of 10,25,100, etc... But so much cheaper per fastener than everywhere else in Utah. Used to be if you ordered before about 2-3pm it would show the up next day from ups without paying for next day shipping. Only time I've paid for next day shipping, the stupid OnTrac shipping guys lost the package between California and Utah. That delayed a big engineering high profile project by a couple days.

 

 

mcmaster is awesome, tha place is definitely cheap! Also check out pegasusautoracing, they have great prices as well!

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I pretty much followed 240hoke's right up on how to do it. I added a small album of pics. After I finished welding the inner and outer fender together and grinding/sanding it down. I used a flexible sealing putting to finish it out. Then when I did the undercoating with "Por15 bedliner" I brought it out to the edge. For the front I left an extra 1/4" before I made the cut so I could fold it back over on itself. You can see that in the last picture. https://goo.gl/photos/L3YH6KdVmXK5kFWw9

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I pretty much followed 240hoke's right up on how to do it. I added a small album of pics. After I finished welding the inner and outer fender together and grinding/sanding it down. I used a flexible sealing putting to finish it out. Then when I did the undercoating with "Por15 bedliner" I brought it out to the edge. For the front I left an extra 1/4" before I made the cut so I could fold it back over on itself. You can see that in the last picture. https://goo.gl/photos/L3YH6KdVmXK5kFWw9

Dang! That looks very clean! your z was very rust free! I'm impressed with that, I've never see it done that way before, but I do wish that I had seen that before I did mine! Props to you mate!

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This past week I got a good amount of progress done. I'm pretty happy with it! 

 


Firstly, I bought an fx1 pro from corbeau (Initially they gave me the fx1, which has a 2 inch wider base and it did not fit at all, so I took it back to their warehouse and they swapped me there, along with hooked me up with a bunch of stickers. Obviously not a huge money loss on their part but it was nice). Here is my friend Jordan test driving out the wrong seat haha

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Then, installed the seat into the driver's side of the Z!

 

I used the stock rails, Knocked out the stock carriage bolts on one side of both rails, and drilled new holes on one side of each rail until they matched the holes for the seat. They were pretty close to begin with initially so it wasn't hard. 

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after all that, I put tape on the front stock seat mount, put the rails back as far as they would go so they were exactly aligned, put those aligned bolts on the tape and marked the spots. Then, found center of those marks on the mount and drilled! After that, I cut a 1 1/2" piece of metal bar into the correct length, then marked up the holes and drilled those out (easier to do this from behind the seat, climbing over from  the passenger side. I slid the bar to where I could see the middle of the stock holes on the rear mounts, as well as where the bolts lined up). then I marked those all, centered them out, and drilled. Attached the rear bar to the seat, then attached the bar/seat to the rear mounts, then front. worked out pretty well! (I will admit, it was more of an eyeballing it all as I don't plan on these being my final seat mounts. As you can see, I'm 6'0" and my head is about a centimeter from hitting with the cushions in, I'll need to do some adjustments and probably do some side mounts to make it a bit safer! So, I can't fully recommend my method, though I am please with how well the seat fits in and how straight/centered it is. I also drilled out some holes in the side of the rear mounts so I could tighten the rear bolts to the custom bar, but found it to be much easier to use the aforementioned process above.)

 

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The next day or so, I used my Christmas present from my wife ( a new pressure washer, she knows me well!) and cleaned off the engine/tranny, taking care to cover any ports well. It looks much better now! Though I will clean it more eventually. Later on, I dropped it in the bay!

 

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the next day, I installed my dash! pretty simple process, I'm happy with how my self restored dash turned out, though I'm willing to bet it won't be permanent.
 

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then tonight, I borrowed a floor jack, lifted the tranny inside the trans tunnel, and finished installing the engine! I also removed the smog pump and a few bits, taking care to reintsll the bolt holding the adjustment bar back in with washers as I'm pretty sure it helps hold some cover on. overall, pretty goos weight reduction  ;)  haha. I also installed the steering wheel bar thing.
 

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more updates soon!

Edited by Jboogsthethug

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Hmmm... I have drill down there next weekend at Camp Williams, if I get down Friday at a decent hour I'll have go looking

Thanks for your service in the military! What branch are you in?

 

As far as Corbeau, you definitely should have  look! Call ahead and they will let you try out their seats in their show room!

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Thanks, I'm a mechanic in the Utah Army National Guard.

 

That's a great idea, it would be nice to sit in a few and see what is going to actually work for me before buying. I'm kind of picky about lumbar support and the angle my legs sit at from the back to the front of the seat.

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