JMortensen Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I remember years ago John B was looking at running bias slicks and talking about flipping the GC plates around to get more positive adjustment. Due to the lowering and the control arm length change in my car, I need less neg camber than I can currently get with the plate in the normal way. It tops out at about -3.5 degrees. Flip it and I've got about -1 degree on one side and about -1.5 on the other side. The problem is that I can't move the adjuster because it immediately contacts the bolts that hold the plate in the car. Thinking I can take the top piece off and do a crude notch with my band saw and then use the closer two screw holes, but that seems to be about my only option. Am I missing anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Not that your approach won't work; but if you'd rather not cut your GC plates, what about switching to a smaller adjustment plate (like the one used on AZ ZCar camber plates)? http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Any adjustment left on the LCA? Tweak the strut tube a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 LCA is as short as I can get it. AZC top isn't compatible with the GC top. I could switch out the whole plate and that might be a solution, but would like to do that as a last resort. Tweak strut tube. I've heard about that forever, don't honestly know how they do it or where. Could you explain? Did make a little progress, I took the lower two bolts out and that allowed me to get to about 1.5 degrees, which I think I'll just call "close enough" for this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I've seen it done by heating the tube and bending it, also by sawing about 3/4 way thru the tube, bending the cut closed, then welded. Both are done right next to the spindle. Stock class with no adjustable parts allowed. Are you going to run the car this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 That's the plan. Looks like it might rain though. Gonna have Mark Haag (zredbaron) out with me if it doesn't. Got new used slicks today too. I really hope it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Well I hope you get to run. I know that will be huge for you. Gotta have an update!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Post pics!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Rain in WA?? That's crazy talk! Probably too late now, but is there room to drill two new holes for new mounting points to replace the two existing mounting bolts that are interfering with your adjustment plate? This might be preferable vs cutting notches as you were originally thinking. Used to run with Mark in Virginia Beach...his 240 is one of the nicest I've seen. Good luck to you both -- fingers crossed for decent weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 No room for new holes. That camber plate takes up the whole space. GC suggested I buy a plate with a longer slot and cut it to fit in the strut tower, but I don't think there is room for a longer slot. Rain is closing in after what has been the hottest, driest summer I can remember since I moved here in 2002.. Looks more and more like Sat is not going to happen. Forecast said rain Sunday, then rain Saturday, now says rain Friday. Next option is in Medford, OR in 2 weeks. Really wanted to do both and get some miles on it. Would hate to tow all the way down there and then have something stupid break and have to tow back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Another alignment question. Since caster is defined by the top of the strut and the ball joint wouldn't it be accurate and easy just to measure the angle of the strut (measured front to back, not at its leaned in angle relative to the chassis)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I flip mine around all the time. Only use the 2 close holes and shaved the washers to fit together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 At far as caster and camber, Im setting up a car now on jack stands without hubs. A digital angle gauge on strut works fine for locating things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 Are you similarly limited in the range of motion when you have them "backwards"?jhm had a good idea, countersink the holes and use a flathead machine screw. Going to have a look at that, see if there is enough meat there to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Jhm's idea worked great, and flat head 5/16 flathead screws were easy to find at the hardware store. Only issue I had was trying to hold the screw from the bottom while tightening the nut on top. Managed to do it with an impact driver (only screwdriver I had with a big enough phillips) and a 3/8" impact gun on top. Did waste one screw trying to hold with a stubby screwdriver from the top. That didn't work at all. Also shaved the washers down as Clark suggested. If I could get away with just one screw on top then I think I'd have the full range of slot adjustment available, but not sure if running it with just one screw is a good idea. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Nice!! I've seen those flatheads in allen head also, but typically only in fastener specialty shops for the sizes needed for camber plates. Can order them online too, I guess, if needed for future uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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