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I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking.

 

I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows:

 

Block

Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts,

ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased)

 

Head

Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting.

(*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun)

Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F)

ARP Head bolts

Felpro Head Gasket

 

Fuel

MSA triple Webers 45mm

 

Ignition

Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL

 

Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance,

Edited by CRAracer05

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Flat tops with the stock N42 head gets you around 10:1 CR I think.  With a shave, even higher,  Welded chambers, way up there, need race fuel.

 

We don't use kings in America.  But, at least, you'll need a distributor to distribute spark.

 

Core.

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Flat tops with the stock N42 head gets you around 10:1 CR I think.  With a shave, even higher,  Welded chambers, way up there, need race fuel.

 

We don't use kings in America.  But, at least, you'll need a distributor to distribute spark.

 

Core.

 

Ya king was bad spelling correction, I fixed it now.

 

Just wondering what route to go on the distributor. I would like to go the cheapest simplest route. Whether it be a modified distributor, 280z or 280zx, or the Mallory.

 

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the combination of welded chambers, big cam and 93 octane pump gas will be good without detonation.

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I built my N42/N42 with flat tops, ported head and 270/280 .464" cam.  Calculated compression was at 10:1.  With SDS programmable fuel/ignition, I was still having detonation issues and had to back the timing out quite a bit.  Power-wise, it was decent, but not what I wanted and I ended up lowering compression and putting a turbo on.  Lots of people say "just drop an L28ET in" and I wish that's what I would have done :wacko:

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Just wondering what route to go on the distributor. I would like to go the cheapest simplest route.

 

welded chambers, big cam 

 

crossed fingers

You should do more reading, thinking, and calculating.  Spending big money on some parts then using cheap parts to run them is bad logic.

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You should do more reading, thinking, and calculating.  Spending big money on some parts then using cheap parts to run them is bad logic.

 

I have done a lot of both, but there is so much conflicting information out there. A handful of people say they never experienced detonation with flat tops and a large cam,because of the dynamic compression loss. My plan is to run a large cam and weld the chambers to further reduce the chances of detonation. Also, on the the distributor when I say the cheapest route I should have elaborated and explained that I would prefer to go with a modified Nissan distributor (re-curved / removed vacuum advance) than to fork out the cash for the Mallory unit.

 

I have also been reading the post on here regarding cooling modifications to the head in order to help reduce ping/detonation issues common on L-series engines. This also brings up the possible use of different coolants that may help.

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An update of what I intend to build....

 

N42/N42 engine as follows:

 

Block

Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts,

ITM flat top pistons .30" oversize (already purchased)

Glyptal coating

Rods smoothed to remove casting, shot peened, balanced, ARP bolts

 

Head

Surface job, valves un-shrouded, mild porting, welded chambers (per Honsowetz book)

Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) (reduced dynamic compression ratio)

ARP Head bolts

Felpro Head Gasket

 

Fuel

MSA triple Webers 45mm (per Honsowetz book)

93 octane pump gas

12 Gal fuel cell

Edlebrock pump and regulator

 

Ignition

83' 280zx dizzy, re-curved, vacuum advance removed (question whether to run the the E12-80 or MSD box)

280zx alternator

 

Exhaust

MSA 6-2 ceramic headers

MSA twice pipes exhaust

 

Cooling

280z OEM radiator

Electric fan

EVANS waterless coolant or HKS D1 high-pressure raditor cap (15.6psi)

 

Drivetrain

California Datsun lightened & resurfaced OEM flywheel

280z/280z 5-speed

R200 with OBX LSD (3.90 or 4.11 gears)

 

I would be doing all of the work besides machining.

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I used to make these kinds of list.  Class was too boring.  Read, don't browse, through that head-cooling thread.  You don't have "drilling the head for balanced coolant flow" on the list.  Seems like it fits in there.

 

Be careful with those California Datsun purchases.  Used to be Datsun Parts LLC.

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I used to make these kinds of list.  Class was too boring.  Read, don't browse, through that head-cooling thread.  You don't have "drilling the head for balanced coolant flow" on the list.  Seems like it fits in there.

 

Be careful with those California Datsun purchases.  Used to be Datsun Parts LLC.

 

Anymore I have so much stuff going that if I don't make lists like this I forget things. I have been reading the cooling mod thread, and just made it to the end tonight. I saved Tony D's summary on page 23 to a word document, and I also saved the photo of the block port where the plug is to be installed, and the photo of where to drill the head. I will at least do this mod on #5 & #6. My power levels shouldn't be high enough to do #3 & #4, but compression will be high so at least doing #4 might not be a bad idea.

 

I appreciate the tip on California Datsun as I hadn't read any bad reviews on them yet. I can try to find some local to machine my flywheel as I have the drawing of where to properly remove material to lighten it.

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It's not uncommon in the racing world.  Why would you go with points if you can have electronic?

 

Make a spreadsheet and put some cost estimates in for each item.  The sum will be interesting.

 

Not sure either, but my plan is to get a matchbox dizzy and have it re-curved.

 

I try not to do that anymore, or I will be tempted to just buy a newer car that doesn't need as much.

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Schneider cams have a problem with cam lobes going bad..

 

First I have heard of this? Schneider said they can regrind my factory cam and it is a better material than what they make new cams out of. I was planning on going with the 284-92F cam after talking with them this week. Still not sure on whether to go new or a regrind though.

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