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Hello everyone! Im new to the Hybrid Z forums so I thought I would start a build thread for my build on my 1975 280z. Current car: 1975 Datsun 280z Mods: Subaru Power Steering conversion, Full Eibach suspension, aftermarket swaybar + full polyurethane bushing conversion, Toyota front disc conversion, aftermarket A/C installed, 240z driveline, (im probably missing some things so I'll update it as I go.) I have roughly 20 years of receipts of all the work done to the car. I just recently acquired the car so everything listed above was done by the previous owner. Now here is my plans for the rest of the car: [Key --> Green = Acquired Crossed Out = No longer using ] Turbo Spec Motor 7.31:1 Compression (N42 block/P90 Head) Either T3 Precision Turbo or T3 Turbonetics Arp Head Studs External Wastegate + Blowoff Valve + AFR + Boost Gauge Oil Cooler Turbo dizzy 82/83 280zx + shaft Megasquirt EFI kit from Softopz 550cc RX7 Injectors / 440 cc Supra Injectors (For Sale, Message me if interested I will ship at no extra cost) Turbo Oil pump (thoughts?) 240sx throttle body + Sensor Intercooler + Piping Oil Pressure T for oil lines to turbo (in & dump) 2mm head gasket to lower compression to 7.8/1 wastegate Downpipe (need a dump tube as well for the wastegate) Turbo Manifold(x2 anybody want to purchase my extra?) + wastegate adapter 2.5" exhuast / black widow widowmaker Upgraded Ignition System (not sure which to go with yet, suggestions??) NGK Plugs Pallnet Fuel Rail Kit + Throttle Body Spacer Electric fuel pump upgrade + New Pressure Regulator ------------------------------------------------- UPDATES: Update 11/3/2017 - With some great info/advice from the comments, I am highly considering going with a megasquirt plug in play kit made by softopz (just waiting on his reply at the moment). I've also decided I definitely DO want a bigger cam, so any suggestions on that front are helpful as well. Also I have added that if I go the megasquirt route I am ordering a pallnet fuel rail to compliment it. Update 11/4/2017 - Alright after meticulous research, hours of comparing prices and talking back and forth to people who have done the cam/turbo builds and the potential power gain (and I do mean COUNTLESS hours of this haha), I have decided to completely ditch the whole cam and head upgrade idea and go the turbo build route. For almost the same price (actually a bit cheaper) I can get alot more smiles per gallon with the turbo build. There just isn't enough power to be had on the N/A build for the amount being spent. So as of right now this is the game plan. I will continue to add to this as I see fit, everything will be updated on this original thread post. Part 2 11/4/2017 Just went through the receipts on the car (dating back to the late 90's) and boy was I in for surprise! All of the tedious work to maintain the stock L28 has been completely gone through by the PO! For example the timing chain kit from Z Motorsport has been installed, Tune up kits routinely done, fuel pump and filters / lines replaced, harmonic balancer replaced, and the list goes on. I couldnt be more happy with this purchase!! Did I mention the PO gave me a close ratio 5-speed for the car?! This car amazes me and I am very thankful that it has had such meticulous care over the years. Update 11/7/17 Added some parts to the list. Also purchased a turbo manifold on facebook for 150 bucks! ***Update 11/10/17**** I have purchased a complete L28 turbo motor setup at a very very good price! Here are the engine specs: L28 N42 Block with dished pistons, P90 Head, N47 intake, turbo manifold, Pallnet fuel rail + Fuel pressure gauge, 440cc supra injectors, rebuilt chinese housing turbo with turbonetics internals, turbo dizzy, and assembled with ARP studs. Came with some other misc parts as well. Update 11/13/17 Link to spreadsheet for parts list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iOiWBJyjQH3KEkLnBor0snwgOvXaUo4I0qIo1ZDYFZo/edit?usp=sharing Update 12/7/17 Tore down the entire motor and I am going to rebuild the bottom end and the head and all freeze plugs timing chain etc... Ordered all the parts just need to hot tank the block to start assembly again.

Clean title 119k miles Really reliable just did a 190 mile trip with it not a single issue New tires, brakes, water pump, and thermostat (Have the window spoiler thing will throw in for free) Automatic (pretty cheap to swap) Interior isn't the cleanest but it's not bad. It would make a great project car or even just a good cruiser. I can't keep it anymore so just throw me a reasonable offer.

I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking. I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased) Head Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting. (*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm Ignition Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance,

I am planning on building an L28 for my '72 240z. I've done lots of reading, and of course have discovered the information on DatsunZGarage. I am planning to follow his setup on a P90/F54 (Which I already own) pretty much exactly. It is a pretty moderate build, and I'm not going to go overboard into performance. I try to daily drive the Z when I can, which includes a 100 mile commute. My main concern is pinging. Shaving the head 0.080" brings me up to around (Probably a little over, I don't know what size pistons I need yet) 10:1. With the P90's head design this shouldn't be an issue, but I am in California so I really only have access to 91 octane and I don't plan on using any octane booster. If this is CR even an issue, I'd rather just get the compression a bit lower from the start, than retarding timing and potentially losing performance that way. I understand how the camshaft and valvetrain geometry is kept in line with his setup, what I don't know is if I want to lower it a bit, how to go about that the best way (Say shaving just 0.060" instead). Like I said, I have done lots of reading, and have searched on here and haven't quite found my answer. This is probably more a question of general engine building than specific to the L series, but you guys likely know best and I figure it should be a fairly short and sweet answer. I'll try to get a thread together showing my progress with the car soon too, it's been a lot of work but I enjoy it, and I love my Z. Thanks!

hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall