Jump to content
HybridZ
bushido431

5.0 T5 shifter location

Recommended Posts

I just bought my father's 280z back after 15 years. When my father did the engine conversion in 87 he made a custom center console because the shifter was too far forward, I want to put a factory console back in. Does anyone know of a way to get shifter close to srock location. Possibly swapping tailshaft with 3rd Gen Camaro or 280zx Turbo? I'm considering fabricating a remote shifter. If anyone else has solved this issue please post up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97812-460zgt-project-build/?p=978422

 

With a stock center console, if you forego the switches (in my 78, there's a Haz, Def switch in the way) it will buy you a bit more space in the 'up' direction.  Working with those two switches probably cuts 1.5" out of your clearance, I bet.

 

Second thing, I just remembered, the 94+ V6 T5 (same 300ft-lb torque rating as the V8 T5) has a bellhousing/input shaft that is 3/4" deeper, which might help you.  Granted, you'd need at least 3/4" of extra slip yoke on your current driveshaft to safely swap them, but if you do, that's a lot of easy space.  I have a 94 V6 T5 behind my 351w in my wife's 65 Mustang, and it fit perfectly in that, while lots of guys with pre 94 trans have to trim the shifter hole to get clearance. If you don't have the driveshaft length, you might be able to get a set of universals that are offset, two of them should buy your 3/4" back I'd think.

 

Oh, and there's a Facebook group, "V8 s30 Owners"; on Sept 29th, one of the guys posted up these two pictures:

 

14479756_10103490544847196_4913028527388

 

14449858_10103490544837216_5462765756389

Edited by yellowoctupus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My car has the shifter very close to the stock location, but that required moving the engine back almost against the firewall.  The back of the driver's side cylinder head is 3/4" from the firewall.

 

To put the engine in this position required deleting the factor hood latch, and fabricating my own mounts.  I believe the Laine Family installation has the engine in a position similar to mine and that they managed to keep the hood latch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/21/2016 at 1:08 AM, yellowoctupus said:

I just remembered, the 94+ V6 T5 (same 300ft-lb torque rating as the V8 T5) has a bellhousing/input shaft that is 3/4" deeper, which might help you.  Granted, you'd need at least 3/4" of extra slip yoke on your current driveshaft to safely swap them, but if you do, that's a lot of easy space.  I have a 94 V6 T5 behind my 351w in my wife's 65 Mustang, and it fit perfectly in that, while lots of guys with pre 94 trans have to trim the shifter hole to get clearance.

 

So for sure the same bolt pattern as the V8? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yessir. Same pattern for all of these: (stolen from Wikipedia-Ford Bellhousing Patterns )

  • 200 I6 1978-1983 only, partial (4 of 6 bolts) pattern.
  • 250 I6
  • 255 V8
  • 289 V8 - (made after August 3, 1964) - had 6 bolts holding bellhousing to block
  • 302 Cleveland (Australia)
  • 351 Cleveland V8 (not the 351 Cleveland M-block engine)
  • 351 Boss
  • 351 Cobra Jet
  • 302 Windsor V8
  • 351 Windsor V8
  • 400 Cleveland M-block V8 aka 400FMX (certain 1973 casting numbers D1AE and D3AE, mated to the FMX transmission)
  • 3.8/3.9/4.2L Canadian Essex 90° V6 (RWD only)
  • 240 I6
  • 300 I6
  • 4.6L Modular V8 (first two casting runs, numbers F1AE and F2VE)
  • 5.0L Windsor V8
  • 5.8L Windsor V8

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×