Paint Stripper Evaluation
Posted 13 February 2005 - 08:49 PM
I followed the directions as best I could with each one.
**Klean-Strip Aircraft Remover Spray, 18 OZ Can: (Purchased at Wal-Mart, ~$7). This product actually was the worst, and did nothing to any other paint I tried it on. Really, it acted more like a spray wax than paint stripper. Extremely Poor!
**Eastwood DeKote: Specifies 3+ hours to sit. Well, after 5 hours now, it is not doing much. It did bubble the one top coat on the door, but has not touched the original coat under it. I rate this VERY Poor. What a waste of $44/gallon!
**Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II Aircraft Coating Remover, 1 Quart: (Purchased at Checker Auto Parts, ~$9). This stuff bubbled the paint better than the first two, but was dissappointing still. It was also rather expensive. I did not try spraying this paste, although the can says that it can be sprayed. I won't be using this again either, marginal results.
**Klean-Strip Low Odor Aircraft Remover Paste, 1 Gallon: (Purchased at Checker Auto Parts, ~$19). This product worked okay, but when left on for the specified 30 minutes, it dried and was difficult to scrap off. When left on for 10 minutes, it made the paint a goopy mess. It required several applications, and made a mess! I will use it up, but won't buy any more.
**Klean-Strip KS-3 Premium, 1 Gallon: (Purchased at Home Depot, ~$18) This product worked satisfactory, and even softens the under coating okay. The thicker paste made it easier to apply to the vertical and overhung surfaces. Required several applications, but was not as messy as the Aircraft stripper, and worked better.
**Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II Aircraft Coating Remover Spray, 15 Oz: (Purchased at Check Auto Parts, $6/can). Yes, this is the same stuff as the brush style listed above, including identical labeling other than one is a brush on and this is a spray, and expensive. The brush on is green, this is clear. This, amazingly enough, was awesome, and worth its weight in gold (well, almost). I used 4 cans of this today (Probably 2 cans per hatch, inside and outside of hatch). It takes 10-20 minutes to work, and makes the paint separate cleanly from the steel, leaving perfectly looking steel underneath. Most of the sprayed area is clean on first try, with only spot applications required at times. This by far is the BEST paint stripper I have even used, simply awesome. Now, if I could find another store that carries it (I need probably a 12 more), I would be set. Checker only had 2 cans at each store I tried...
Hopefully this will help other in choosing the paint stripper to use. I know which one I will use from now on. It also softened the small spot of undercoating I tried. I am not sure though how effective it really is at removing undercoating. Also, wear gloves with any of these, boy do they burn otherwise!
Posted 13 February 2005 - 10:46 PM
Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:59 AM
Posted 06 March 2005 - 06:32 AM
**Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II Aircraft Coating Remover, 1 Quart: (Purchased at Checker Auto Parts, ~$9). This stuff bubbled the paint better than the first two, but was dissappointing still. It was also rather expensive. I did not try spraying this paste, although the can says that it can be sprayed. I won't be using this again either, marginal results
Posted 06 March 2005 - 12:10 PM
I had a hard time finding enough of the stray type Mar-Hyde. Ends up, it seems that nobody around here except Checker carries the stuff, and each Check store only carries 2 cans at a time. What a hassle. They wouldn't order a full case for me either. Finally, I had THEM round up all the cans they could from the various stores and I just stopped by and bought all of it. VERY god stuff indeed.
I have found that allowing the spray kind to dry completely works very well. What seems to happen is:
1. It gets to work as well as it possibly can
2. It lifts the paint off extremely well, and them dries. This makes scrapping cleaner, and the mess can simply be vacuumed up off the floor without staining. It looks like a bunch of leaves on the floor.
3. You don't have to worry about the fumes, or when the right time to scrap it is.
4. You can use a wire brush (I put a cup wheel on a drill) to get in the corners without just making a mess.
I can highly recommend using the stuff in this fashion, and it seems to be safer too (less exposer to the fumes).
Posted 07 March 2005 - 11:43 PM
Posted 08 March 2005 - 07:27 AM
Posted 09 March 2005 - 08:44 PM
90 Talon Tsi Fwd
Posted 09 March 2005 - 10:15 PM
"I'm tired of chasing my dreams man. I'm just going to ask where they are going and hook up with them later." - Mitch Hedberg
Posted 10 March 2005 - 06:01 AM
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