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Fixed the door slaming issue..


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#1 datsunlover

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Posted 14 May 2005 - 07:37 PM

I'm sure most of you guys know the pain of having to SLAM THE HELL out of your doors to get them to close.. Well, I do. Lots of time spent adjusting the striker's and door hinges.. still, had to really bash the doors to make them shut. (ussualy the first one would catch, but it wasn't compleatly latched and the doors would rattle around over bumps and such) I thought I was just really bad at aligning things, or the whetherstriping was to thick... Well, today I had a closer look and made some modifications to the latch on the body. Hard to describe, but if you look at the door on your Z you'll understand. The door has a little round cylinder with two 'bumps' on it, about 90* apart. The lower one (pointing towards the ground) hits first on the body latch, causing the cylinder to rotate and pushing the second 'bump' around/into the latch on the body. Seams to me that the past 30 years of closing the door had worn down the metal so much that the second 'bump' wasn't rolling into it's proper spot, as it was hitting the 'point' where the cutout starts. I simply ground back the little radius with a dremel and WOW! The doors close like a new car! I don't know if this is any help to anyone, but I thought it was worth posting anyway.. I'll try to get a pic to describe what I've done..
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#2 Zoldman

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 02:04 PM

Wow,

A pic of this would be great. I hate trying to shut my doors; its almost an Olympic event.

Bill

#3 Hugh

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 02:07 PM

My doors ain't bad, but if it makes that much of a difference, hell... I'll do it to mine, too!!

Lets see a pic!! :-D

#4 Guest_JAMIE T_*

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 02:49 PM

That issue is usually the result of the "Precision" brand weather stipping being slightly too thick. Mikelly shattered his drivers door glass having to slam the door.

#5 datsunlover

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 02:54 PM

Ahh yes, BUT, just to see, I pulled the weather striping OFF at one point, and it closed a bit better, but still not properly. I was worried about shatering my glass too, as it rattles around a bit to begin with.. Looks really bad to when you're leaving a car show and you have to 'take a run' with the door wide open, and wail it shut. And it STILL doesn't close! :lol: I'll go get the digicam right now..
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#6 datsunlover

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 03:35 PM

Ok, so if you know what the door piece looks like (rotating cylinder with two bumps on it) you can figure out the first one hits the area marked in blue. This causes the cylinder to rotate, 'rolling' the second bump into the small radius, and latching the door closed.

The yellow line points to the spot where mine was hitting, and causing that 'clunk' sound. This point was actually smashed really bad from years of abuse, and took a small amount of grinding to fix the peand/mushroomed metal.

I then realized the root of the problem; The area marked in blue had been worn over the years and was not in the correct position anymore to allow full rotation of the door cylinder. (well, I guess the door piece could be slightly worn too.. seames to be stronger metal though..) So I used the dremel tool with a small grinding stone to grind back the area in red.. about 1/16" in the end. I just took a bit off at a time, blended it in to the original rad, and closed the door till I didn't hear/feel it hitting.

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I assume that the 3 or more body jobs this car had over the years didn't help, and a lot of folks probly tried to adjust the latch mechanism but did a poor job, or gave up and just slammed them. At one point I peared into the door while trying to close it and saw that even though it was hitting, you could still get the door to close.. it just took a lot of force, and would actually move the whole door UP as it scraped in to place, before finally latching. I feel like a fool for not realizing this sooner, but oh well.. live and learn. Hope this helps. :)
Wisdom is knowing what to overlook..
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#7 Hugh

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 04:36 PM

So what I gather is this:

The area in blue is now closer to the area in red, and the two rollers don't align anymore?

You grind out the red area to match the distance that it used to be from the blue?

Then adjust the plate out further towards the door... I suppose?

#8 Here comes trouble

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 05:14 PM

Good fix for doors...........My 78 Z does not have the same latch as yours but another 280 Z (1975) out back does. My passenger side door does not want to properly latch but that maybe due to lack of use and lubrication. The 1975 parts car opens and closes like new.

#9 datsunlover

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 06:20 PM

So what I gather is this:

The area in blue is now closer to the area in red, and the two rollers don't align anymore?

You grind out the red area to match the distance that it used to be from the blue?

Then adjust the plate out further towards the door... I suppose?



Yup, exactly. :) It doesn't take much, and instead of the factory sharp edge, (left from the original stamping operation I supose..) I put a small round on it just to help as a 'lead in' if the door striker does come into contact.

Trouble;
I never thought about the later Z's having diffrent latches.. (mine is a 75) From what I've seen, they were all the same.. Do you have a pic of the later style latch? Maybe there is a simmilar fix for them..
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#10 Here comes trouble

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 08:21 PM

Sorry no pictures On the door... the latch parts are inside the door with a slit in the sheet metal for operation access.. On the door opening there is this stud intergrated to an L shaped round guide bar all on a plate using 3 mounting holes... Looks like it is beyond wearing out and improvement over earlier models. It also looks like the 78 doors and doorway striker plate could interchange on an earlier model. Since my earlier post my closing problem was solved by a liberal dose of WD-40

#11 katman

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Posted 16 May 2005 - 08:03 AM

Regarding the weatherstripping-
We recently finished a total resto on an original owner 1971 and started with the factory door weatherstrip, now only available for 280Z's but it still fits. Way too thick. Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun fixed us up and the doors close great.

#12 JMortensen

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Posted 16 May 2005 - 08:53 AM

I had the same experience with 280Z factory weatherstrips (and they were EXPENSIVE). I'm going the JC Whitney route next time.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#13 slownrusty

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Posted 17 May 2005 - 05:48 AM

I fixed my door slamming issue too with....DIVORCE papers.

LOL

Yasin
Ole skool "wouldn't have it any other way"

#14 Mike kZ

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Posted 18 May 2005 - 04:24 AM

Man, this works great!! I've been having major problems with my drivers door, and have the prefered factory Nissan seals, and this fixed it! Good find man. I'm going to sticky this for others.

#15 Metro

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Posted 18 May 2005 - 06:27 PM

I used the mcmaster weatherstripping that people have suggested and I didn't have any problems with closing my doors.

That is, until I put the door panels on, that 1/4" was just enough to hit my driver side seat. doh.

1976 Datsun 280z L28et | MS2-Extra, wasted spark, Jenvey ITBs, t3/t04, Ford HPX MAF

2000 F250 Crew 4x4 7.3 PSD, Full Force 180cc/30% Injectors, PHP Chip, FRx, HPx, AFE Intake, Hutchmod, TransGo kit, 4" Lift, 35" Toyo M/Ts


#16 Hugh

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Posted 18 May 2005 - 06:44 PM

I used the mcmaster weatherstripping that people have suggested and I didn't have any problems with closing my doors.

That is, until I put the door panels on, that 1/4" was just enough to hit my driver side seat. doh.


Just had to comment, that is one beautiful Z you have there. One day when I get "done" with my engine, I'll do some body work. :-D

#17 datsunlover

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Posted 18 May 2005 - 07:17 PM

Man, this works great!! I've been having major problems with my drivers door, and this fixed it! Good find man. I'm going to sticky this for others.



Heheh.. cool! A post I started got made a sticky! :lol: I feel all warm and fuzy inside.. Oh.. that might be the beer though..


Glad I could help out! :D
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#18 Metro

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Posted 21 May 2005 - 07:12 PM

Just had to comment, that is one beautiful Z you have there. One day when I get "done" with my engine, I'll do some body work. :-D


Thanks, it looks nice in pictures, but my paint job is a "20 footer" in real life. I started on the body first because it was a beater, now time for the motor!

#19 Nismo280zEd

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Posted 22 May 2005 - 08:19 PM

I used the aftermarket OEM style replacement weatherstrip from MSA... alot cheaper than OEM. Initially it was hard as **** to close the doors, but after a couple weeks in the Texas scorching sun and a few open and closes.. they work very nicely. No slamming at all. Alot of problem with door slamming is miss alignment, worn hinges, striker plates, etc. A couple hrs adjusting will save ya weeks of headaches. But then again I have the later style latches... 78

78 280z 2+2 (Sold) 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon-Piper (Sold)
2007 Honda CBR600RR-Mandy(Sold) 2000 VW New Beetle-Curby(Sold)

2014 Toyota Camry SE-Camie


#20 hat1324

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Posted 22 May 2005 - 09:10 PM

my Z only has 25k miles and maybe 15 years of door opening and closing...

good thing it blew the motor in 89, sat outside in the winter up north,and got backed into; other wise it would be nice!




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