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Fixed the door slaming issue..


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I'm sure most of you guys know the pain of having to SLAM THE HELL out of your doors to get them to close.. Well, I do. Lots of time spent adjusting the striker's and door hinges.. still, had to rea

This thread really helped me out; I recently bought a '72 240 off of eBay. It was great but the drivers side door had to be slammed to the point of concern or it would not fully latch. From inside the

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To add to this thread. Just an FYI, but the more you grind from the red portion (second lobe notch), the more you will have to compress the door to close. Yes, the geometery will be better and the lobe will be able to rotate properly instead of binding, but you now require the door to press in that much further to allow that latch to reach it's latched position. Moreover there is a higher tendancy for the door to have rattles when shut since there is more play.

The best solution is probably the rubber piece. This allows the cam to rotate more and provide a better angle for the next tooth/notch.

I however don't trust myself with being able to glue a tiny piece of rubber to a cam that is covered with grease/oils/years of grime. I opted instead to just add material to the blue area. I built up an extra 2-3mm on the initial face (blue edge) with a welder. This worked great allowing the cam to catch sooner and get the second cam into the right position (basically I am adding weld material to the striker face the equivalent width of whatever the rubber piece would be.

 

Also to note, I now have the freedom to drop the striker plate down to get better door alignment. Beforehand, if you dropped the striker at all you make the angles even worse and it would not shut at all. No problems now.

 

Pics to come.

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This thread really helped me out; I recently bought a '72 240 off of eBay. It was great but the drivers side door had to be slammed to the point of concern or it would not fully latch. From inside the car it was very difficult.

 

After finding this thread in a bout of restlessness last night; I went to Lowes and bought a 36" piece of 3/8" PEX pipe. PEX is made from polyethylene and is pretty similar to nylon in hardness and low friction. 

 

post-52198-0-54863600-1458500032_thumb.png

 

I trimmed a 3/8" piece off and made one cut along the side. After submerging it in boiling water for a few minutes, I formed it around the 1/2" handle of the x-acto I used to cut it with.

 

It snapped right on the contact lobe of the door latch.

 

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The door closes almost without effort now.

 

15 minutes for both doors and $1.60 in materials.

 

No grinding.

Edited by simulacrum
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