Project 240Z Turbo ITB Install

[Dtsnlvrs]

Aftermarket in his 240z.

 

Thought so. It has been my experience that most 240 owners that install an aftermarket CDI ignition or a standalone such as the SDS, cannot ever figure out the tach, so they just install a traditional tach. The MSD 8920 ( a $60 part) allows you to use the original tach (BIG STYLE POINTS) while upgrading the ignition system. BTW, most 240 stock tach problems, ie bouncy or reading wrong, will be fixed by using the 8920.

[240hoke]

I ran aftermarket gauges in my car because I wanted more gauges and more accuracy then stock could provide. I like all the gauges to match and there are so many good options out there that are more suitible for a highperformacne build. Check out KTM's post today, these things look great:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1101233#post1101233

 

If I was doing a 'stock looking' build in the future I would pull all the stock gauge guts out and place new traditional style gauges in the housings.

 

I was suggesting that you switch to a 260z or 280z tach...I *think* I have 2 or 3 in the shop if you want one. I just read though that you already have an adapter, so might as well use it, but im still a fan of the less extra junk the better.

[FricFrac]

Thought so. It has been my experience that most 240 owners that install an aftermarket CDI ignition or a standalone such as the SDS, cannot ever figure out the tach, so they just install a traditional tach. The MSD 8920 ( a $60 part) allows you to use the original tach (BIG STYLE POINTS) while upgrading the ignition system. BTW, most 240 stock tach problems, ie bouncy or reading wrong, will be fixed by using the 8920.

 

You don't need to buy the MSD 8920 - use the power resistor mod and do it for a fraction of the price if you want to use the original tach.

[Dtsnlvrs]

You don't need to buy the MSD 8920 - use the power resistor mod and do it for a fraction of the price if you want to use the original tach.

 

The Power resistor mod IIRC is used to enable a 260-280 tach to work with a MSD. The 240 has a CURRENT triigered tach not a VOLTAGE triggered tach, no resistor mod will ever get it to work with a square wave signal...you MUST create a "false" coil draw for the tach to FEED in order for it to work.

 

http://www.msdpowersports.com/pdf/frm22049_pn8920.pdf

 

IMHO in a 240 the options are...buy the 60 buck part and wire it in as per MSD, or buy all new gauges..cause lets face it, having just the tach non stock is kinda tachy

 

Oh and BTW, the adapter makes the stock tach VERY stable and VERY accurate.

[S30TRBO]

So I have a Mikuni short runner intake manifold bolted to my Extrudabody ITB's.

 

Geometry is telling me if I cut and bend the stock rod it aint gonna work. So after a long conversation with Buck there is some Mikuni "mystery bracket" out there that moves the “early†stock 240Z firewall bolted linkage mount point closer towards the hood latch. This will allow for a straight shot with only shortening and welding the stock linkage rod back together.

 

See visualizations of the now:

 

 

 

 

See she is short:

 

Decisions, decisions....:

 

1.) I have this 5.5 inch long bracket and I was thinking if I space this off of the firewall, use the stock holes for its mount, then mount the stock bracket to the "extender" bracket over an inch or so this might work?? The top rod that goes from the bolted linkage part to the welded on body linkage part I can loosen it to give me the inch or so I need to move it closer to have close to no angle for the mechanical linkage.

 

 

2.) Or bolt the longer bracket to the stock location and weld the stock bracket to it and shorten the linkage rod?

 

3.) My other choice is when I go turbo I know I am going to have to convert to a throttle cable over my mechanical linkage. So why not convert it now with something like this from Savage42?

 

 

I would need to buy some other parts to finish the "cable" conversion from Extrudabody:

 

http://www.extrudabody.biz/servlet/the-Throttle-Control/Categories

 

 

I love the feel of the mechanical throttle over the cabled but if I have to convert to cable then so be it... Sorry if this doesn't make sense I am whooped and it's late.

[garvice]

Looking good mate.

I had the same tacho in my 260z that you are talking about (Inductive loop kind). I decided to buy a new tacho (VDO) but wasn't happy that it didn't look original.

So I came up with this.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=157065

[garvice]

 

Can I ask what the large silver cable (with what looks like an inline fuse) is doing? Looks a like it is joining a distribution board and a small wire.

[Daeron]

Can I ask what the large silver cable (with what looks like an inline fuse) is doing? Looks a like it is joining a distribution board and a small wire.

 

Looks like its just an installed power tap for a possible future sound system or large draw device, or maybe an input of alternator power. the two small red wires behind the large wire head don't look to actually go into the top, and it also looks like the bus terminal is all empty at the moment.

 

Also, he said "Almost done from the left: constant hot 12 volt distro" or words to that effect. I just noticed that, myself, going back and looking a second time, though. So obviously we all miss some little things

[S30TRBO]

On the top of the inline fuse where there is no wire (in this picture) comes from the starter. It then passes through the inline fuse curves around and goes in the lower part of the distro block. On the top is where things that need +12 constant source can be added. The orange wire you see is for the aftermarket gauges, it needs both keyed and constant +12.

 

I gave everything one spot so i am not tapping in 100 different places on the 40 year old wiring harness.

 

I'll post more pics when it is done, hope I explained it well.

[ktm]

I like the look of that power distribution block. Where did you buy it?

[S30TRBO]

I like the look of that power distribution block. Where did you buy it?

 

Mobile Spec purchased from a stereo shop local to me.

[Kash]

Looks great!

[S30TRBO]

Thanks! now back to the garage...

[S30TRBO]

Alright while doing some other odds and ends like putting some spark plug wire spacers and doing the vacuum lines for the ITB's the throttle linkage was giving me the stink eye.

 

First here are some pictures of the odds and ends:

 

I had to use my dremel to open these plastic spacers up to fit my big arse Scott wires

 

Vacuum line ran from the intake to the Extrudabody Air Log then out to each ITB.

 

 

Now, after staring at the linkage mount for an hour or so I unhooked it all and moved the bracket over. So the right side bracket bolt hole is now in the left side bolt huh, pretty ingenious for an hour of contemplating.

 

I think it will work, I just need to get my dremel in there and use a tiny drill bit for a pilot hole and put in a self tapping screw because there is no room to get a drill in there or from the inside the heater box and ummm I don't know the DASH is in the way HA!!

 

I extended the rod that goes from the welded on pivot boot to the bracket I just moved. I still have a good two turns left on the threads and it’s locked down with the lock nut. Take note of the position of the stock rod, it’s not facing down towards the header anymore it’s on its side now. The chunk of aluminum on the end of the Mikuni manifold is slid all the way down on the rod and it spins 360 degrees and you use the 3 set screws to tighten it in place. I don’t think it matters what position the hook is in on the end of the stock rod or does it?

 

Here are those pics. Give me some feedback while I go jump back on the wiring.

 

 

 

[S30TRBO]

My friend Erik came over he is a ME and we did a lot of head scratching. We ended up taking apart the only Z car intake manifold I had laying around (N42 non-EGR) and robbed the linkage assembly off of that and starting placing parts here and there.

 

Here is what we came up with so far:

 

We used some of these parts:

 

The stock bell crank fit perfect without forcing it on the end of the Mikuni linkage rod. Off of that came the short "rod piece" going to the stock 240Z J-rod. In order to make this work I need more bell cranks and other pieces scavenged from other intake manifolds.

 

 

I need more length because of interference issues with the TPS. So the Mikuni rod near the thermostat housing needs to be lathed to put two circular grooves to replicate what is on either side of the tower that has a C-clip on either side. On the other side of the Mikuni linkage I need to drill through the bell crank for the set screw and drill 2 more holes every 3/4 on center for additional adjustment.

 

 

Having said all that, I have 3 options:

 

1. Continue with the modifications to keep the stock mechanical linkage as mentioned above. 2$20-$50 for machine work, plus parts from or purchasing a few Z/ZX intake manifolds. Total: $60-$100 plus welding costs

 

2. Get a long runner carb intake manifold so I only have to shorten my stock 240Z J-hook rod. I believe it will line up much better. Total $80-$300

 

3. Convert to cable linkage. $15 for the Extrudabody Throttle Cam, $15-$20 for the cable and another $25 for the firewall bracket. Total $60-$80

 

My problem is my linkage needs to align perfect with the short runner Mikuni manifold. If you look at Buck's triples on a long runner, the rod is in perfect alignment with the manifold rod and not offset at all.. thus no binding:

 

The same goes for how SU's are aligned right on top of the intake manifold linkage:

 

Decisions, decisions..... ????!!!!????

 

Although I did swap in my 42lb green tops:

 

 

[Daeron]

I'm no help, (and what follows is one of the all-time epic "dumb jerk" lines) but I sure wouldn't mind having your problems

[S30TRBO]

I'm no help, (and what follows is one of the all-time epic "dumb jerk" lines) but I sure wouldn't mind having your problems

 

"my problems" not really a "problem" more of an annoyance although I can start sending you “my problems†since I have family that lives close to you only because you insisted.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

oh yeah why did you even post?

[Daeron]

oh yeah why did you even post?

 

To comically say "damn, thats a nice setup that I envy." Sorry it was a little dry.

[S30TRBO]

thats what I figured... Thanks

[S30TRBO]

Well after much deliberation and humming and hawing I have decided to go a different route. With the help of Kevin Thornton from Extrudabody I am mailing him off the ITB’s for the cable conversion. Kevin and Extrudabody have stepped up to the plate yet again for me. I think I was one of the first, if not a close second of purchasing the Extrudabody ITB’s for the L6 back in 2007. Two years later I am at the point of installation uggh better late than never.

 

Kevin has offered to convert my throttle actuated mechanical linkage on my short runner Mikuni to cable actuated throttle. My current setup is that the Mikuni rod which is 12 or 14mm ID and it will need to be converted to accept the Extrudabody Throttle Cam that uses an 8mm rod with all the appropriate linkage. It will also include the cable and firewall mount, this would all normally cost $150. The best part is all I have to pay is the shipping costs for both ways. When my ITB’s return they will be set up and ready to rock and roll!!

 

This is a true testament ladies and gentlemen of great customer service delivered from Kevin and Extrudabody. If anyone has had doubts of dealing with Extrudabody, I would think again. Extrudabody demonstrates the old philosophy in taking care of its customers until the end state. This philosophy has slipped to the waist side by most in the industry today. I am sure Kevin could have sold me the linkage and provided some guidance with the install and modifications. Instead with a few quick email exchanges Kevin asked me to send my setup to him and he would take care of setting it up and providing me with all that I need to finish the job.

 

That right there is top notch!!!!! :2thumbs:

 

I’ll report back once they have returned…