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@260det, thanks for that. I've got a few ideas going right now, going to do some prototyping and hopefully make some improvements. A few updates from recent activity. Earlier last year when I rebuilt the gearbox I replaced the factory transmission mount isolator with the 240sx unit. The only modification required was drilling two holes in the crossmember. This Megan racing mount came on one of the 240sx boxes I got, and is a bit more robust than a ZX unit. The engine mounts tore again, so I ordered some OEM Nissan mounts from japan. The OEM mounts immediately delaminated on installation, so I ordered up some silver project mounts and they work just fine on the stock ZX. They are a bit stiff at idle with the cam, but while driving I can't tell the difference. Took the opportunity while everything was apart to finally fit on my #5 bypass, should help flow at the back of the head at least a little bit. AN to BSP fitting was easy enough to source. The throttle body heater cap was also leaking, so it was a good time to re-seal that. The front sway bar was also binding due to some janky drifting stuff I did to get more clearance for the brake calipers at full lock. Steering is much more complaint now, as it should be. Went to Thunderhill East this weekend and got on track for my first lap, engine was misfiring and I get black flagged for oil smoke in only a few laps. The driveshaft munched up the transmission output shaft seal, and it sprayed fluid all over the exhaust causing the smoke. I suspect it was due to the old failed engine mounts, but I'll find out for sure if it fails again. The parts shop in town had the required seal, I also got a coil and spark plugs to combat the misfire. I missed a few sessions, but I got it back on track with no leaks and running better than it has in a while. Set a 2:16.030, at least at a similar pace as the rest of the run group. The water temps get too hot after just 4 laps flat out, as mentioned previously in the thread I'll have to start doing something about this. A while ago I had adjusted the water temp enrichment table in the ECU to go very rich when the CHTS detects 240 degrees, and it worked great. At just about 230 on the gauge and it goes rich so I'm not tempted to keep pushing it.