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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
  2. 2 points
    Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
  3. 2 points
    The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backing plate and the rotor vents. Doesn't look all that wonderful but I think it's going to work well. 1 down, 1 to go, then can modify my front end for the scoops and hook up the tubing.
  4. 2 points
    Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
  5. 2 points
    an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
  6. 1 point
    Hi All, I am JC, I currently live in Paris area (France), and after lots of japanese cars I had (S13, Civic, Corolla TS, GT86, EX37), I am currently buying an imported '78 280Z. Project is subject for full restoration, and maybe engine swap, as I currently have one in hands Although L28 seems to be a good base, so it is under consideration. Nice to find such a board See you all around!
  7. 1 point
    I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
  8. 1 point
    Sub-frame is done... at least it's all tacked together. And wow, not to pat myself on the back or anything, but I am thrilled with the way it came out. It couldn't be packaged any better in my opinion given the placement I want for the engine. I checked the bump steer again, and now instead of my laser drawing a horizontal line when going through the wheel travel, it makes a much more suitable vertical line with an acceptable amount of variation. There are some small adjustments I could do down the road to make it even better on the pitman arm / tie rod side of things, but this is going to be it for now. We'll see how it drives and go from there. Onward to engine mounts... after some thought I think I'm going to try to a bit of a hybrid approach from what I was originally thinking. I'll get some more pics up, but basically, I'm thinking i'll incorporate the passenger side engine mount with this sub-frame and the driver side engine mount will be on the front frame rail. I think it's going to work better given the steering column placement and the environment. More to come
  9. 1 point
    While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a snug fit by filing the sides to fit. I hope this helps somebody else with this problem. R
  10. 1 point
    Pad compound and rotor size have very little impact on overall bias. They can be used to tune in brake feel, but it's within a few percent and at the end of the day, don't effect clamping force. At the end of the day you need to start with the correct piston stagger, which I'd hope T3 can figure out. A prop valve certainly would be a good addition, I won't dispute that. I do wish generally that these companies would tell you what calipers they use. Saying "Wilwood 4 piston" is about as useful as saying "New calipers" since Wilwood has so many caliper piston sizes within the models. The tools and calculators exist for people to figure this all out, but the companies need to give us the information. Anetcodaly we all know the rears see less pressure due to the factory prop valve, residual valve, drum cylinders etc, but does anyone have actual numbers?
  11. 1 point
    Hey guys new member from Vancouver BC. Finally got my hands on a 73 240z. Needs some passenger quarter panel work from first inspection but will probably find more as I dig into the car. Struggling with which way I wanna go with this car... do I swap in a ls, rb, etc. Currently also building a 77 trans am that’s had a lot of work done. Should be done soon... well at least I hope so lol
  12. 1 point
    Well long time and I have finally bested my PB in the Ls. 8.64@157!! Also will be on JJ arm drop fastest in america. Stay tuned ,-)
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Had another good day out this past weekend, dry with temps in the 80's so it was near perfect. I beat my previous personal track record by 4 seconds and was hanging around with some prepped spec Boxsters, they were faster in the corners I was faster in the straights. I am going to have to go to different rear brake setup though. The 280zx kit has been giving me issues with dragging/sticking that is causing me to miss some track time to adjust and bleed, keep warping rotors. I don't think they can handle the heat and abuse of slowing the car from 140 mph so I am gong with the kit I probably should have in the first place, Wilwood 2 piston. Other than that I am really happy with the car's balance still. @heyitsrama I am running a fairly stock rear end with just KYB struts and German springs. I am planning on A-arms and coilovers this winter mostly for alignment tuning. I am not sure if you consider a suspension mod but I have a welded rear tower brace that ties in to the roll hoop I replaced every bushing with poly stuff. Also running no rear bar. In the front I have the same strut/spring combo with T3 NCRAs and the triangulated brace, and 280Z bar. The last two, and to answer your question, are mandatory in my book on a Z that gets driven hard. Those were my two latest additions and completely transform the car for a few hundred dollars. The best way I can explain how the car felt before is vague, disconnected, and unpredictable which I would attribute to poor suspension geometry (after lowering) and very weak suspension connection in the front. I think you could get to the same place with control arms but those are 3-4x the price of the NCRAs (comes down to how much adjustment you want) and . I don't know that the brace actually increases grip but it makes the car FEEL better and respond more consistently corner to corner which is worth way more that a few seconds off a lap to me. I have two conclusions (which are much the same as those before me) the S30 needs major help in front suspension connection (side to side) and frame to frame connection (front to rear) once you start eliminating the unibody as the main carrier for suspension loading the car feels much better. Second the front suspension geometry is a mess when you lower the car, I would wager that given the same spring rate a standard ride high Z is faster around a track than a lowered one, all other factors being equal.
  15. 1 point
    So been a long time but I finally got a retune after all these years. Only updated the fuel pump to an intank aeromotive phantom stealth and changed the boost to 14lbs. On a mainline dyno made 400hp which dyno jet numbers is 440ish on 14lbs which is exactly where I wanted to be. If i pushed it to 18 I probably can break 430 maybe 450 tops but no need at the moment. All this with 6th cylinder on 100psi while the rest are at 175/180!
  16. 1 point
    Yeah, the car is gutted now and making rotisserie mounts to connect to bumper brackets today. A HybridZ member sent over a link with chassis measurements to double check the chassis is square before welding in SFC.
  17. 1 point
    Got the Z tuned today! Made 295 hp and 340 ft/lbs torque at the wheels on 87 octane. The tuner thinks he can get to about 350 hp on 93. edit: makes 305 on 93 - I guess the tuner overestimated his abilities Still, 305 at the wheels is plenty fun!
  18. 1 point
    I have some lap data to sift through but the car (and me) were much faster, around 10 seconds without getting 100% clean laps since the track was really busy. I didn't get much seat time because it rained all morning but I have 3 more weekends lined up. Most importantly the car feels GREAT now. I wish I could explain better how the car felt before but images driving around on 2" wide tires. Now it feels like a car should again with amazing predictability in the corners and improved grip in the front. The additional reinforcement is very noticeable and turn in is awesome with the NCRCAs. The fronts are wearing evenly now which is probably where 90% of the change that I feel. It also tucks the nose in really nice mid corner if I ease off throttle a bit. Anyone that has seat time at the track understands just how important confidence is to lap times and I feel comfortable in the 260 now. As for the engine and brake upgrades.. hoboy does she fly now, actually slightly terrifying going 136 down the back straight with no ABS to rely on . But seriously there were very few cars on track that pulled harder in the straights. The HT-10s are amazing and will lock up the tires pretty easy at higher speeds so I buy in to the guys who say that you only need better pads in most cases, If I was running longer that 20 minutes I would looks for upgrades to manage heat but that is a non-issues for the time being. I may look at getting some spacers for the rear this season but am largely happy with improving my times in the car as-is this season. The next big project is coilovers to reduce roll and rear end replacement. I will get some video next time and post it.
  19. 1 point
    Progress has been slow but the car can be pushed around right now Work on wiring up the gauges, wiring harness etc is basically under way now. The frame for the fuel cell needs a couple more brackets and powder coat. Getting pretty close to sending back for paint Silicone intake hoses are probably coming out...but wanted to show a picture of where it is at.
  20. 1 point
    Hi guys. Long time lurker in AZ. I have had a handful of of S30's, a Z31T and a Z32TT. Been around Z cars for almost 30 years. Please picked up a 75 280 about 2 years ago and I have been slowly messing with it. It had some pretty beet up fenders but they aren't rusty so I'm working on them. The car had a bad paint job on top of 2 other repaints so she is going to metal. I've had a few cars with triple mikuni's and already got some more but not sure if I'm going to go that route or not. Technology is cool after all, so is boost. I also already have done a ZX 5 speed swap and have the 390 diff from the same car. Currently looking at swapping in a VLSD from an na z32. In this process I may have figured out a cheap CV swap, more on that later when I have more info. Anyway love the site and how helpful people are. See you around.
  21. 1 point
    I spent the day making up brake lines to fit the 3 configurations, bleeding each one and testing while trying to record it all on video. As @JMortensen suggested, compressed air is NOT a good substitute for brake fluid when testing a prop valves as you will see. So to any future readers please ignore my conclusions in the first post. The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. This testing was done on a 72/240z with a new 15/16" Master Cylinder, rebuilt 280z brake booster, all new Cunifer brake lines, SS flex hoses and Wilwood 120-6816 4 piston calipers on the rear. The fronts brakes were not tested. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I warmed up the brakes a bit then tried a panic stop, PS rear lock up but none of the others. Tried the same thing again and the DS front locked up but none of the others so I’m pretty close but will continue to test and play with it. So the front brakes are now getting 1200psi and rear 575psi. https://youtu.be/FWQ2V-w1Av4 For some reason the 3rd vid won't embed but the link is above.
  22. 1 point
    When I designed my new cross-member, I added notches to positively locate it laterally relative to the frame. The bolts don't take any shear load.
  23. 1 point
    I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
  24. 1 point
    There is a company that makes a reproduction Auto Panel Solutions, I see their stuff on facebook.
  25. 1 point
    It would also help to get the car on the ground and settle the suspension before making judgements. Sometimes things can look weird when everything in the suspension is drooped.
  26. 1 point
    My build has moved on quite a bit now, you make a list of things that need to be done and then keep finding other stuff to add to the list. I am very pleased with what the trimmer has done for me, all in leather and a decent price as well. I had to paint the floors and fit the sound deadening before it could go for trim, I also did a dry build of the dash and seats etc. Here some pics for those interested.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Considering the fiat 124 is a mx5 (ND) with different panels, why not go for the mx5, should be cheaper and make custom front end and rear end so it doesn't look so much like a fiat 124 with a datsun roofline? it would be a mx5 underneath anyway, just more personal?
  30. 1 point
    hx jhm, I just followed up advise from NewZed again, tightened downcomer. Looked up some more internet youtube's how to discover if there is a blown-out gasket. I stated up, with radiator cap of. It started right up again, no smoke, and i could see a flow in the radiator. No signs of bubbles there. After about 30 seconds, white smoke again, which did disappeared after like 2 minutes. Some smoke coming from engine after some time, but felt it was some residue on the exhaust shield. So kept running. No leaks, and all smoke gone. Figure for now, all fine. Radiator was warming up (car was on for about 15 minutes, and i drove a bit), but no change in oil temp or water temp gauges (need to check that). I did just touch the block, valve block and valve cover to see how hot they were. They were hot but i could still touch them, and good sign the radiator was getting warm. Figure, all looks fine for now. Did order gasket set, just in case Was trying to upload some movies... but no luck. What I also did, is open the oil lid, engine changed speed right away and was about to die, so put it back on, and all back again. Seems vacuum system is okay. VID_20200331_173144.mp4 VID_20200331_173144.mp4 VID_20200331_173144.mp4
  31. 1 point
    Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
  32. 1 point
    Thought I would drop a few pictures and an update here before starting a build thread and informational text/videos for others to reference. I have the engine ready for a clean up, inspected the cylinders which were pristine, and turned it by hand. Got all of the pieces together to send to ZFever for the wiring harness service. I’ll be posting about the adventure in finding the wiring parts soon.
  33. 1 point
    I would find a level surface, and some good reference points on the car body, and see if the car is tilted or the flares are one the car incorrectly. Or if something else is going on. Reference points might be something obvious like the back bumper, or the bumper mounting points. Or the inner wheel well arches. Or the sub-frame mounting points for the suspension. If the car boy is tilted,then adjusting the suspension is reasonable,and will bring the body back in to line. If the flares are off, then adjusting the car body will introduce other weirdness, like a tilted look from the back.
  34. 1 point
    Not sure how much effect you would get from just moving a battery a few inches lower on braking or handling.
  35. 1 point
    Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
  36. 1 point
    Hood pins/latches and vents installed:
  37. 1 point
    My car acctually have a rear mounted swaybar from when i bought it.
  38. 1 point
    Just measured i need 190mm swaybar link, i know MOT guys might not like cutted and welded link but its 10min job to attach sway bar to factory points for MOT. im doing this mod https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E36-sway-bar-strut-mount-weld-brackets/253877569934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 But again i have to criticise these parts, look how much you lose to leverage. you can only get softer with these parts But for the effectiveness to leverage to bmw it´s about +2mm (18mm bar acts as 20mm bar) but cause 240z sway bar mount is closer to lower ball joint im guessing +1mm for effectiveness Quick google to 190mm sway bar link says crown vic link might fit, thats not cheap find in Finland https://www.ebay.com/itm/165mm-210mm-Ball-Joint-Adjustable-Roll-Sway-Bar-End-Link-For-Lexus-Toyota-Nissan/264294647769?hash=item3d893047d9:g:Fd4AAOSwGhFcvW8f These are easiest. But citroen parts are 5€ each, just need to cut and weld
  39. 1 point
    I did this on my build. Not only did it make no sense (to me) to have to dismantle the hub bearings to change the disc, the OEM setup also severely limits your options regarding disc choice. I used floating discs, for example, which would not have been possible with the OEM setup. I did have problems with the TTT hubs however. Once everything was assembled, I noticed the disc had a visible wobble when mounted on the hub. I hooked up a dial indicator and measured something like .015" wobble at the outer edge of the disc. Obviously that was FAR more than could be ignored...most OEM manufacturers specify no more than .001" runout of the disc: Then I measured the runout on the TTT hub without the disc attached, and got a .002" wobble on the hub face. I think that was the source of the problem, and the wobble just magnified on the disc face since it was much larger diameter. I measured my 45 year old OEM hubs, and they measured perfectly true, no wobble whatsoever. So after pondering things for a bit, I decided to just use the stock hubs. Since I have staggered front/rear wheel/tire sizing, I couldn't really see any downside to having 5 lug in the rear and 4 lug in front. This did involve getting new front brake hats machined, but fortunately at that time I had not yet ordered wheels. I mean, I would rather have used the TTT hubs, but I knew the wobble would have been a major problem, not just with the brakes but I am sure it would have introduced a "shimmy" into the steering wheel as well. Once I received the new brake hats, the discs ran perfectly true on the OEM hubs. For the record, I do not blame TTT for the problem. I have no doubt the hubs were manufactured true. The way CNC parts are made, it would have been a far greater challenge to make them wobble than to machine them true. I think I created the problem when I pressed the bearing races into the hubs. Aluminum is very soft, and the bearing races are hardened steel. Unless they are pressed into the hubs PERFECTLY straight, I could easily see them distorting the bearing bore or shaving a small lip, in which case they would not seat perfectly true and could easily cause a wobble. I think that is what happened, and it is my fault, but I suppose it does raise some questions about the suitability of aluminum as a hub material.
  40. 1 point
    I pretty much gave up trying to use continuous beads when welding very thin metal, and use a series of connected spot welds. With such thin metal, you still get ample penetration, and for me (limited skill level) it is the best way to keep the heat under control. Every place I tried continuous beads on the Datsun sheet metal, it was a shit show...both in terms of burn through and horrible distortion.
  41. 1 point
    In 2020 I will have been producing performance exhausts for 10 years ! Firstly, I would like to thank all my loyal customers over the years to make this happen and I’ve been rewarded in return by having many of you as friends. I’d also like to thank all those Z-professionals and track, rally and hill-climb competitors who continue, respectively, to sell and exploit my parts ! To celebrate this I’ve produced some exclusive super-goodies which I’m including as gifts* with each 2020 order and so as to be clear : Silencer, muffler order = free keyring (your choice) Manifold/header order = free T-shirt (quote size ‘L’ or ‘XL’) Complete kit = free 10yrs keyring and T-shirt (quote size ‘L’ or ‘XL’) These items may also be bought seperately with worldwide shipping** included in the prices below : Keyring 10 yrs : us$11 Keyring Z profile 50yrs : us$15 T-shirt 50yrs : us$23 (two sizes only ‘L’ and ‘XL’) *so long as stocks lasts ! **I will group ship so as to reduce the overall shipping cost. Obviously if bought as an extra and included in an exhaust order, there will be no shipping cost ; so less expensive ! Please contact me via mail (or PM) for any enquiries : seanz@wanadoo.fr So, Merry Christmas and I wish you all a happy and above all healthy New Year with new Z (and ZX) adventures !
  42. 1 point
    Hey all, Wondering how fast (ET) any of you have gone in the quarter with stock 280 stub axles and flanges? I am not pushing mine very hard with an auto, and a tight converter, and running 12.05 to 12.08. I am putting it up on the converter to stage, so everything is preloaded and there is minimal shock.(235/60 mickey dr's) I would like to upgrade the heads, cam, ect, Should I upgrade the stubs before I go any harder? Thanks.
  43. 1 point
    Only you, the owner/driver, can answer the question of Eibach (or any similar lowering spring) vs stock. Do you want stock ride height and softer ride, of do you want lowering and firmer suspension? Tokico is another good lowering spring, but they're pretty hard to find at this point. Vogtland seems to get good reviews, but I have no personal experience with them. Here's a link to one vendor for the high-quality bump stops referred to above. Pricey, but worth it if you're serious about good handling: http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000. Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things. The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environmental Solutions. Single booth 23' x15' was $9995.00 and twin booth 23' x 48' was $19995. They seem to be made of material similar to those auto paint shop curtains that divide up shop areas. According to them, the booth is made of materials that pass NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)701 test methods 1 &2. TV's Garage Squad show is shown using their booths. But I would check with your local fire department first before purchasing one.
  46. 1 point
    So, I was randomly looking back through my old posts and stumble back on my intro for HBZ. 5 years ago I got hooked on Datsuns. I stopped posting to focus on reading and learning more. Because of the overwhelming amount of information available about these cars I didn’t find it necessary to ask many questions. I stopped updating my introduction after i bought the 76 280z. The 280z has come along way since then! In the past 5 years it’s seen a lot of redoing. Iv’e changed wheels, flares, engines, ECUs, a few times. Although not the most efficient way to modify a car, it is allowing me to learn, improve and keeps me interested in the process. My only underlying goal with modifying it is to keep pushing toward the car having a “special” feeling to it. I can’t define a “special” feeling exactly but it’s a feeling i would like to have when i look at the car in the garage, sit in it, show it off, and while driving. A few years ago I swapped the l28 for a l28et. My first engine swap. It went pretty well and the experience was a huge confidence booster. It made the car feel way better on the highway and the exhaust note was awesome! The next year i decided to hop up the power a little and add Injectors, FP, larger turbo, IC, 3in exhaust and MegaSquirt. I had some help tuning and was able to learn a bunch about wiring and street tuning. The power gain was pretty substantial. Although I did not get a change to dyno it, my guess is it made around 300hp with a lot of torque. I really felt like this was the sweet spot for the car. Enough power to feel “fast” compared to a modern car, but not too crazy. A few months later I decided to start liking the Gnose. The Gnose really transformed the look of the car. I took the car to Gridlife Midwest and it won Best JNC classic! A proud moment for me as it was my first car show and i honestly didn’t build it with the intent of entering or winning any. Last winter the Z got some greatly needed upgraded wheels, and a RB25 fell into my lap. I wanted to keep the white blue contrast going and had some Wantanabe RS8s custom built for the Z. The wheel size and width are totally for athletic purposes and I’m fine with that. I had been wanting to do a RB swap since before i did the l28et swap, they where just too pricey at the time. That winter I stumble across a cheap local RB25 for sale locally, and decided to take the plunge. I refreshed all of the accessories on the RB and installed an upgraded turbo, turbo manifold, ECU Masters EMU Black, custom wiring harness, 1000cc injectors, even larger FP, fuel rail, and open dump external waist gate. I also took the opportunity to clean up and paint the engine bay. People would always ask me to see the turbo swap and with how messy the bay was before i was kinda embarrassed to. I learned so much during the first swap the RB swap came out so much cleaner and came together much more easily than i would have thought. This time I did all of the initial tuning myself and took it to the dyno to get it fine tuned under boost. Made 400hp on 93. The RB25 make the car feel much more modern and refined when not in boost. On boost its pretty intense! It kinda feels like having a loaded gun on you. I was missing with the idea of tuning it on e85 but i think I am good with the power it has for now. I’m also still using the u-joints in the rear, so I am planning to upgrade the whole rear end soon. Also happened to win a showcase award at Clean Culture MI! In all, I've been humbled by how much other people enjoy the car. I've met interesting people, made good friends from people just starting conversations about it. HBZ has been a constant resource for me throughout this project. Thank you all for the quality info and keeping the forum alive!
  47. 1 point
    Hello @Zetsaz, We are currently just running the sales side so that they can focus on catching up on manufacturing, we are also helping to organize orders in a way that allows us to be more transparent with customers about their order. At any time a customer can contact us and we will have an update for their order within 24 hours, we also have a strict 4-6 week lead time for anything that is made to order. Along this note we are also working to hold more Retro-Spec products in our stock so that we can ship within 2-3 days instead of waiting for manufacturing. Please feel free to contact us if you have any other questions or would be interested in any custom parts for your Z. Thank you!
  48. 1 point
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X Seats They're really tall so i needed to remove the old braces and weld in new (much) shorter ones
  49. 1 point
    I am. Currently about 12 sets left. I plan on making more if there is a demand.
  50. 1 point
    Moving along on the suspension and engine mock up. Slow going.......
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