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  1. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  2. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  3. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  4. @clarkspeed Thanks for the incredibly comprehensive response Clark!! 1) 100%. Have GC coilovers at each corner w/ GC bolt-in camber plates (to maintain EP spec). Will adjust ride height after the exhaust is in. 2 & 3) You have given me a lot to think about here. Car came with 3/4"" spacers, so I'll have to measure and possible buy more or taller spacers once I have the ride height set. Greg runs 3 1" spacers stacked, and has one machined to make-up for the effect on camber/angle of the LCA mounting surface. 4) 10-4! I am allowed 2" extra track total (1
    1 point
  5. I have meaning to start up this thread for long time. In the past 10+ years I have learned quite a bit about building and racing early Z cars. So I decided to take all my knowledge and build the "ultimate" racing Z. But of course that is a relative term. More precisely, an early Z that is built loosely to the IMSA GTU rules of 1978 and legal for vintage racing. This actually allows quite a bit of modification, so my attempt is to apply lessons learned from 40 years of racing into a car than can compete with muscle cars from the late 60's. Both HSR and SVRA group the GTU cars in with typ
    1 point
  6. Yes. It's a 3.1 ish. The OS was a 3.3. Not sure why Rob hasn't been more vocal about the results but I'm sure he has his reasons. Let's just say the owner is happy with the KN20. Hopefully ZCG will publicly post some numbers soon as they are impressive.
    1 point
  7. Hello, I just wanted to thank everyone for all your support and suggestions, I did narrowed things down and it was the camshaft, I already replaced it and added a new timing chainsaw well, the car operates well now, I know is a long journey but the car has everything operational, I just need to open a new trend about a good radiator. Best regards.
    1 point
  8. It has been awhile. I finally was able to just recently get back to working on the Z and I want to thank jhm , the copper washers you sent the link for, work, and all my leaks are fixed. It was a little tricky keeping them in place on the distribution block at the back. Thanks again
    1 point
  9. It's horrible on both ends. A customer gets screwed unjustifiably, and a once honorable and valued company (Whitehead was good to me) is irreparably damaged at best, about to go under at worst. Whether it's Paypal or a straight credit card purchase, I keep a close eye on the dispute deadlines. If they are approaching, I always file a dispute/claim, regardless of what the merchant claims or excuses they have. Unless it's a trivial sum of money that I am willing to risk. Long range, often international transactions, would be completely undoable without som
    1 point
  10. First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech re
    1 point
  11. Was thinking my first set from GC in '95 or so had 5" adjusters. Just to clarify. Looks to me like you might run the spring to the bottom of the adjuster without getting the ride height you want. You could grind the perch off of the strut tube, but that's a hassle. The other solution is to run a shorter spring. Shortest spring that doesn't coil bind is always the best choice because it's lighter and it will resist bending sideways when it compresses. I started off with 10's, worked down to 8's and now run 7's, but I also have super stiff springs and run very low, so don't need 6" of travel.
    1 point
  12. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
    1 point
  13. I have locked this topic as it has strayed far from the original post. I will leave this up and if there are relevant replies that address the actual topic I will approve. I think there is enough good information to leave it rather than sending it to the shed.
    1 point
  14. Thanks for the welcome, and I appreciate the insight. There is a 280zx in the junkyard nearby, maybe I'll have to do some salvaging. Although I had a 70 240Z in high school and I loved the feel of that four speed, so I'll have to do some soul searching. As requested, here are a few more goodies. The first picture also shows an uninstalled BRE style (I think, but unknown brand) lip spoiler. My most coveted prize is of course, an FM radio from a later model, which will absolutely be installed. Enjoy
    1 point
  15. They do. But I've seen this interpreted different from time to time. My car has a separate metal box over the cell and the lines where they are in the cabin. I got busted at a hillclimb (GCR rules) that I didn't have metal over my fuel lines (braided hose didn't count) so I did what any normal person would in the middle of nowhere. I built a cover using aluminum foil and riveted it to the floor here and there. Technically it was a metal cover. Rules were changed after that to be more specific.
    1 point
  16. Just a few visual examples
    1 point
  17. I think this is the first time I went through your entire thread. And I have to say you have done it right. I am more into road race now, but if I were building an FP car today I would follow a similar path. Personally I believe lowering both sprung and unsprung weight is the key. I really like your brake and wheel setup. The only disadvantage you have is not using an early 240 shell to start with. But you have almost compensated for that. I am familiar with the John Thomas car and really his only advantage is the weight, a strong Rebello engine, and most of all, his extraterrestrial driving.
    1 point
  18. Ok, I think is fixed now. Still working on a few other errors.
    1 point
  19. Aydin71 - I fully understand that you have certain regulations and rules limiting what you can and can't do. I should be very upfront and admit I'm a Quaife or OS Giken fan even though I have run an '89 LSD unit for years. The late John Coffey got me into OS Giken after testing a unit giving him a full second over the Quaife and 2.5 over the LSD unit. Quaife is good for life even if you race it. I'm on the east coast so shipping would be expensive but I would look for someone selling a Datsun R180 in the right ratio for you (3:90/4:11/4:38?) and then install a Quaife or OS Giken. You c
    1 point
  20. @calZ LOL, fair point I have been spending way too much time fabricating rust replacements, replacing roll bar mounts, and reinforcing the chassis. I think I'm getting carried away. I have been cutting quite a bit of weight by removing unnecessary components such as unused brackets and factory unibody-welded nuts. When incorporating monocoque structural components (cells, like tubes), you can reduce quite a bit of weight when compared to the resistance welded stamped steel. I may actually have to add-back weight to meet the 2150 lb spec., but at least then I can replace the weight as low as p
    1 point
  21. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
    1 point
  22. I searched and could not find any information on wiring up an upgraded Honda wiper motor and using a universal 3 position switch. I have the Speedway wiring harness and could not get the stock wiper switch to work so needed an alternative. This worked for my 75 280z. You'll need : 30/40 Amp Relay Inline fuse 30 amp Universal 3 position switch
    1 point
  23. Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.
    1 point
  24. It´s just because it´s a Porsche. They did massive mistake with putting an engine in back of the car. Since then they are sruggling with it. Suspension and car dynamics are everything with weight. In that 911 they have so much weight in rear tires that suspension must be stiff, still weight is in corners by 90% outer wheel. What is fastest way to drive through corner? Yes, it is all weight equally in all tires. Nobody designs car wich is cornering just 3 wheels, unless you have to (because weight) WEIGHT IS EVERYTHING, that is where to start. And these
    1 point
  25. I live in the same area as you, and I have encountered that issue several times with Summit and other companies with products that cannot be shipped to California. I have made several trips to Summit, and I had to also make several trips to paint suppliers in Nevada to get the products needed to paint my car. Ironically though, if you do a bit of searching, there are a lot of companies in the other 49 states who do not give a crap about California law. They will ship products here even without the state's blessing. California governing is only going to get worse in this regard.
    1 point
  26. If they're bound then they're not doing anything, but if they're not then they're softer than the rest of the spring, hence the progressive part. The Tokicos are worse, and it's been an ongoing topic since the 90s. It is as designed though. If it bothers you get a non-progressive spring. Personally not a fan of progressive springs.
    1 point
  27. I bet when you were lower, your rear camber was closer to what the front was. That can make a big difference in balance especially if the tires are more camber sensitive. A little bit of toe can go a long way as well. Zero toe in the rear could be a big part of the looseness, depends on your rear toe compliance (rubber bushings or PU?). Also try zero toe up front or even a tad toe out to tone down the yaw rate gain a bit. YRG is essentially a measure of a vehicle's response to a given steering input--the more your point the tires out of the turn, the lower your YRG. Meaning point t
    1 point
  28. It's a 360 degree thing. Left right up down 45 45...full circle. But if you get left and right and up and down right, they 're all right.
    1 point
  29. Yes he is a good guy. I've done a little work for him and bought a motorcycle from him a long time ago.
    1 point
  30. I picked up a full set of brembo calipers front and rear from a 944 turbo. They appear to be very close to what Z Car Garage is using in their kit. I also grabbed some front rotors off of an LS430, 2001 I think. Acuras use a similar rotor also. I'll start a thread when I start my project but it may be in the spring.
    1 point
  31. If the guy who's going to buy your car in 2, 5, 20 years could talk to you now, he'd beg you not to use fiberglass.
    1 point
  32. Great points! If its just a matter of noise, im going to pass on the rubber. Great point on the angular change... I didn't think of that till just now.
    1 point
  33. I had thought about tossing a tube in there but ended up not doing it just because I havent had time to run to any metal supplier and with the current situation they're typically closed before I'm done work. I'm planning on inspecting these occasionally and if I see a good bit of flex i'll either add the tubing as suggested or bump up the material thickness by .125in. To be fair though the rona will probably be gone by the time I have this on the road. 😅
    1 point
  34. That coat hanger trick looks good. I was planning on drilling and pinning, but that looks simpler and will give that a shot. If I mess it up, I can always fall back to plan B, buying replacement locks. Thanks for the links!
    1 point
  35. While the Z is at my place, my Bodyshop gave me some homework: To completely strip the chassis from all the seam sealer, undercoating, bondo and paint so that it's easier for him to remove old welds and weld new stuff... started by removing the biggest chunks in the front inner fender area with a spatula. but after an hour i realized i need a faster solution. After a bit of research, i found this tihng called Turbo-Igel (Turbo Hedgehog). The name comes from the "hook" style spikes that remind of a hedgehog This thing works absolutely brilliantly and isnt really agressive to
    1 point
  36. Hi All, I am JC, I currently live in Paris area (France), and after lots of japanese cars I had (S13, Civic, Corolla TS, GT86, EX37), I am currently buying an imported '78 280Z. Project is subject for full restoration, and maybe engine swap, as I currently have one in hands Although L28 seems to be a good base, so it is under consideration. Nice to find such a board See you all around!
    1 point
  37. You should, the original outer metal piece of the stock bushing has to come out to fit either Prothane or Energy poly bushings. I've done several in the shop - it has to come out. I installed Energy poly in my personal 260Z (Goldie) nearly 10 years ago (and, yes, I cut that barrel out - with a sawzall (but, I'm careful) and, I daily drive my car)). Please don't hit that with a hammer anymore.
    1 point
  38. I'm not sure who owns the artwork, but that would be cool to do. Just a warning having witnessed quite a bit, group buys and such can get out of hand real fast especially with money and such involved. I know there are on demand printing outlets nowadays. A bit more pricey and more overhead, but benefit of being able to get the items out quickly and one at a time.
    1 point
  39. I'm pretty sure you don't want to use epoxy over flash rust. I mean, I've never tried it, but I wager it's a bad idea...
    1 point
  40. Crunch time! Still planning to test/tune in mid September and drive it to Nismo Fiesta in October. Shift actuator installed the transmission. Driveshaft arrived. Fixing leak on cam covers and while they are off we'll repaint them with a nice speckle red. I always loved the way Ferrari intakes looked with that texture. Lastly I'm converting the 3D printed canards into a mold to make carbon fiber parts.
    1 point
  41. QUICK UPDATE: Got the car sandblasted yesterday!!!! The company I went with is local here in St. Louis and did an excellent job using fine crushed glass. Took about 4 hours and there is no noticeable warping to the panels (I did skip getting the hood sandblasted because it is such a large flat panel I think it would have been impossible to avoid warping it). For those of you thinking of getting the car sandblasted and want to get the rear underside without a rotisserie the frame is so light that myself and 3 friends lifted the shell onto and off the trailer,
    1 point
  42. So, are you going to tell us what the final fix was or did I miss it elsewhere in your thread ? Was it the stub axle ? Or the diff ?
    1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. I have a 280ZX setup that was on my car for over a year and worked fine with stock fronts but you will need to remove the proportioning valve and retention valve in the the MC. I recently upgraded to the SM Wilwood kit because even with $200 hawk pads they were getting cooked at the track. If your car never leaves the highway this won't matter. Please don't take what TTT told you at face value. I swapped an SBC in my garage and the rear disk swap was 10x more frustrating to finally get everything working. Also make sure you're aware of what is required to remove the backing plates.
    1 point
  45. That's just what the Actor, Mark Rolston would say.....
    1 point
  46. I have used both the Maxima and 240SX rear calipers on my Z cars. The problem is that the bleeders do not point straight up such that air remains trapped in the cylinder. Wasted lots of time and fluid. Remove caliper with flex line connected method: You can remove the caliper while leaving the flex line connected. Block the piston so it can not move otherwise when you pump the brakes you will just blow the piston out of the cylinder and you will be very very sad. Hold the caliper so the bleeder points up and shake the caliper while your accomplice pumps t
    1 point
  47. the girls.pdf Hello, My name is Mike. I live in Gulfport MS and work in Charleston SC (for now). I've had this 1978 280 Z for about 3 years. It hadn't run for over 15 years when I got it. I had it running in a weekend …. And then the work began. I've actually got a line on one more in Mo but that's a different story. I love old cars and the challenge that they are to make them the jems that they use to be.
    1 point
  48. Here you go, https://tiltonracing.com/product/master-cylinder-reservoirs/ I have always found Tiltons reservoirs fit perfectly on Nissan MC's
    1 point
  49. Just wanted to follow up with a bit of a progress update. I started stripping paint and bondo, used a head gun and a scrapper to get started, I guess I'll move on to a wire wheel at some point. The roof didn't look to bad, here is a wider view of the cracked area previously uncovered. I still can't figure out why it had any bondo at all there... The other side looks slightly worse, notably the seam, and then some rust on the inside the weatherstripping was covering... An example of some paint bubbling up with a bit of rust underneath at the rear of
    1 point
  50. 1983 280zxt 2+2 -engine= stock bottom end, 185km on the clock -turbo= jy h-trim t04b compressor, t3 .82 stage 3 hotside -Exhaust system - 3" as well as muffler bypass behind rear wheel - How much boost- 21-23psi -ECU= I ran the time in my sig with a nistuned z31 ecu/z32 maf, i dyno'd with an infiniti m30 ecu/z32 maf - autospeed dc motor controller with an m15 and a m10 nozzle methanol setup. -CC injectors - z31 ecu/440cc - latest setup = m30ecu/nippon denso injectors flow tested@670cc -IC - dual grand national cores welded together with 2.
    1 point
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