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  1. New addition to the shop! Almost destroyed my first tire, but didn't scratch the rim!
    2 points
  2. I welded 4x 1.75" wide 0.06" thick strips from the roll hoop to the body, two on the sides right below the window frame and two to the roof support .75" outboard of the dimple die holes. I cannot believe how much quieter the car is and how much better it handles bumps, hard accelerations, sharp turns, etc. Its really incredible, wish I'd done this a year ago.
    2 points
  3. There was some conversation in other topic about blade type rollbar. So, i have one like this. 32x3mm cro-mo tube and 260mm blades. Blades are 35 to 25mm wide and 6mm thick, steel of course. Bar itself is more just a link between blades. This type rollbar works mainly with blades, i.e tube is stiff and blades are flexing (if they do) It depends how they are adjusted. If blade is vertical, it´s very stiff, horizontally they are pretty flexible. Any position between those, are something between, ofc. To adjust, just loose bolt (most left head of blade) and tur to desired position. Or attach cable and make remote control.
    2 points
  4. Starting a new topic based on hijack of Ben's FP 280 thread. There are a couple people, including me, building competition cars or running them at this time. Scope of this thread should define minimum requirements of an autox, time trial, or race prepared Nissan Z car along with advanced path for future upgrades. But mostly minimum requirements suggested for competion based applications. Hence the post under the Motorsports heading. First observation, amazing how long it's been for activity on this topic.
    1 point
  5. Small pre-black friday update. My buddy Mark came to help me out with a lot of the chassis wiring. We got a huge amount done, but there is always more to do it seems. He's gonna come back and do all the pinning for the AS connectors, since they require special tooling that I don't have. Mark shrinking the T on the PDM run Bulkheads for the wires, pretty excited about this. Biggest will be the engine harness, 66 pins, and we are using 62 of them! I also got the frame plated and the engine mocked. Using a reverse mount starter, so I'll need to cut some clearance for that thing, and I MAY need to re-make the Apex Engineered motor mount for the passenger side, depending on the dry sump setup, and how the pump wants to integrate. Really it's time to buy some parts and get this short block put together. Really happy with the motor placement so far. Nice and low and plenty far back. I picked up some CX Racing headers, which I expect to need to modify before final purpose. Ohm said they work well with their kit, but I'm thinking they will hang too low. Ohm also send over some small fabrication parts so I can convert my sub frame from a long nose diff mount to a short nose diff mount! Still on the fence about using the Q45 diff I have or using a 350z/G35 center. I need to do some more gear math, but I'm thinking this will be a bit down the road once everything else is working.
    1 point
  6. 11-17-2022 UPDATE: I found myself in the Bay Area for a few days, so I took some time and drove out to Antioch to meet Dave Rebello and his crew. Very nice guys, and the tips for building my engine were extraordinary. 50 years of doing this means a lot of good knowledge to gain. While there I picked up the Harmonic Balancer I need for the stroker crank and checked up on the pistons. Guys were so nice they took the balancer into the back and honed it.....for street applications, Dave said it needs to be honed.....when I told him I would hone it with my drill on my leg he handed it to one of his guys and they went and did it proper! Pistons almost ready. Amazing that the quality control is so good nowadays. The chief engine builder, Mark, was telling me the last 20 SETS of pistons from TRAUM, all rings were to spec, and DIDN'T even need to be filed to fit. INCRDIBLE! Also saw out front awaiting shipment a 2.5 stroker heading to europe, 13.0 to 1 compression race engine, Dave told me numbers and I don't remember but it was WAY more than 300.....almost 400. Mark said from idle to 8000 it is a beast! I also snapped a pic for a dyno chart from a 2.7 street build he did that showed torque way above 200 all the way across.....I hope, I hope!
    1 point
  7. @jhmThe basic tools you mentioned are often more than most bring with them to the track, and they can be super illuminating for issues. I think the iphone vs android debate boils down to which you have. If we are trying to bring folks into the data-sphere, lowering barriers to entry is huge. Having ANYTHING for timing etc, is going to be helpful. If, like Jon is, looking for a new device, I think Android is the better choice, since the two more involved apps I am aware of for this, on will only work in an Android environment. Solostorm is not an inexpensive situation ($220: https://www.petreldata.com/product/solostorm-autocross-data-logger-for-android/) but it is very powerful. Other tools like Harrys Lap Time or Track Addict Pro are good, but do rely on the inherent tools built into the phones. If you have a bluetooth OBD-II scanner and a bluetooth GPS, that will get you much further than most. Since most Z cars don't have OBD-II however... For my rebuild, I looked heavily into a AIM system. The Solo-2 DL is a really good option that doesn't require a lot of adding in, and the AIM telemetry software is really well supported. Ended up going with MOTEC since their system is also really well supported, and a few folks I race with quite a lot also run them so it will be easy to get support and compare notes.
    1 point
  8. I scoured the internet, and have even been in touch with the gurus who have been doing radio repair for a long time. Until now, there hasn't been any good circuit guides made available for the Hitachi KM-1520ZC that I'm aware of. I took a chance on an eBay purchase of a 1972 KM-1520H radio manual (made for cars from Detroit, apparently) and it paid off. The circuit appears identical - at least as far as my amateur self got into it to identify a problematic trace in my own stereo. The faceplate seems to be the main difference between the models. I'd be interested to see if anyone else identifies any other differences. I scanned and processed it, hopefully someone can find it helpful at some point as I did. https://objects-us-east-1.dream.io/dox/KM-1520H.pdf EDIT: Capacitor C38 is 3.3uF/25V on my radio - as opposed to 10uF/25v spec'd in this manual (for those doing electrolytic capacitor replacements)
    1 point
  9. Sorry for the delay, life gets in the way of project cars. I ordered a custom wiring harness from rywire. I didn't want to mess about wiring. Everything is beautifully labeled. I had to add a spacer to the intake manifold to make the dry sump tank fit. It's a 2.3 gallon tank.
    1 point
  10. Jon, FYI, I usually do things the hard way 🤯 I welded up one end of both spacers, took them to my friend's shop, turned excess off ID and OD, faced to +.005. Surface ground to length. Came home and re-assembled both assemblies. Problem solved. Chris
    1 point
  11. Day of arrival. The chassis arrived yesterday, and I was able to get it uncrated and on the ground in about 3 hours. Cordless jigsaw and tin snips were indispensable. The rear wheels fit nicely and relatively easily over the wheel hubs (I mentioned concerns earlier about this). The hub pilots turned out to be 2.761" and the wheel center holes were 2.768". Some minor problems noted. The rear rotors, spec'd from a 2010-2015 Camaro, were supposed to have enlarged center holes to fit over the Corvette wheel hubs, but they were not machined, so they did not fit. I called Art Morrison, and they will send me out new rotors. Fortunately, I was still able to get the rear wheels on and snug to roll the chassis off the trailer. Very satisfied with the welding and metal forming throughout except one thing. The mid section frame width which I spec'd to be 51.25" is 51" on one end and 51.125 on the other. Front frame width and rear frame width (measurements which AME spec'd) are dead on. This bothers me, but I can overcome it by adding some shim plates to the sides if needed to get to 51.25". I spec'd the frame width to fit snugly in between the rocker panel drop lips. My steering rack simulator bracket made from oak didn't stay put with C-clamps on the front cross member, so I had to manually turn both front wheels to maneuver the chassis around and get it inside. I will have to redesign this using steel and then tack weld it to the front cross member before going forward with my bump steer and ackermann geometry measurements. The linkage itself is sound. Still unpacking and inspecting kitted items including Monotube Strange shocks and Driveshaft Shop CV axles. Next steps are going to be aimed at getting those measurements so that I can finalize the steering rack specs and get it on order ASAP. Will have to invest in a good bump steer gauge. Any suggestions?
    1 point
  12. Just a heads up for people reading this; there have been scams on classiczcars where a newly joined member messages someone looking to buy something. They say shit like, “go email my buddy at something@foo.com”. There have been accounts messaging me on here as well, with the same message format. So be careful!
    1 point
  13. Thanks Jon, no, the torque drag thing makes no sense to me either. Endplay spec. is 0 to .0059! I made a tool to use a beam style torque wrench to measure rotational torque. Spec. is 3.9 in-lb. I was getting 25+ before torquing. My spacers are short by .003-.004. I think that is my problem. Guess I'll have to make some. Thanks! Chris
    1 point
  14. I've seen them on ZCD and ebay. Didn't realize this type of failure was so common.
    1 point
  15. Haha! I'm all for a discussion about important race related matters such as oil pressure. I might be unhappy to be the catalyst for such discussions, but not disappointed to host them in my build thread. I've started working on the wiring harness. I have a friend who builds some really spectacular stuff for prototype cars, and offered to help me get a new engine and chassis harness sorted out for this car. We are trying to do it right, and he's managed to score some pretty serious hardware for me. We are using a Motec PDM32 which is all autosport connectors. One thing has lead to another, and he might be going a bit wild on the construction with the twisting and sheathing. This is all going to look hilarious next to my Megasquirt ECU (rebranded as a Notec from here on out!)
    1 point
  16. My buddy who runs Aerowolf made a pretty sick youtube video as well of the mods I made to the car over winter. I'll try and do a photo dump shortly, but this is a pretty overview of what happened, along with a medium speed lap at PIR to close out.
    1 point
  17. Thanks guys, I'll try a couple of shear tabs between the hoop and the roof support, probably one on each side. Just yesterday I fixed a big rust patch in the dogleg which had been hiding under some bondo (nice job whoever fixed that last 😕 ) and that seemed to stiffen the car up substantially, no more banging when entering the driveway!
    1 point
  18. Nothing quite feels like saying "Project Complete". When the car goes from being a Project to a Driver/Tinkerer car. 13.5 months, 413 days to make her a clean driver again. From being a 50 year old, dog eared "potential", to back in the game.......LONG journey. Blessed beyond measure and to have a 240Z now....is incredible. Thank you Lord Jesus. (build is chronicled under 240Z projects, "joe's 240Z adventure, if interested.)
    1 point
  19. I bent the 240 pedal a bit so my throttle cable went through the firewall opening correctly. Your's looks like a 280 pedal, much thicker metal. I wouldn't be afraid to bend it. If the stop and cable are adjusted, it should only ever be fighting the spring tension on the throttle body.
    1 point
  20. In your videos the starter and battery sound fine. If you watch the tachometer needle it gives a pretty good clue that you're either losing power to the coil and distributor or the ignition module is going bad. The needle does not budge when the engine is not starting, it should be showing the engine's RPM while trying to start. You can test the first possibility, loss of power to the ignition system, by watching a meter attached to the positive lead of the coil with the key on and when you try to start. Voltage should be maintained above about 10 volts. If you don't have power there then focus on that. It would be worthwhile to clean the connections to the coil and ignition module and see if things improve. The old E12-80 and E12-92 modules are known to go bad eventually though. Wouldn't be a surprise if that was the problem, although they usually fail when they get hot. p.s. the magnet under the stator ring is known to break on those distributors also. That might cause a low trigger pulse to the module at starting RPM. That kind of fits your symptoms. It's not obvious, you have to remove the breaker plate and lift the stator ring to see it. Also, one reason the magnet breaks is because the shaft bushings on those distributors wear out allowing the 6 pointed reluctor wheel to contact the stator ring. Here is a good resource showing some of those things. The result of a worn out bushing is shown way down at the bottom. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
    1 point
  21. Slow progress. Close to finishing up the rear suspension. I keep finding things I need to clean and paint. But it is getting there. I suppose its time for the big reveal. Based on Cary's sugggestion, I am going with an external shock. Not sure I can get away with it, but its easily reversable. It was surprisingly easy to do. I used adjustable shock brackets from AA Manufacturing with a some angle iron for strength. Even easier in the front to connect to tubing. I used 1/2 threaded rod with rod ends to mock it up. I 3d printed a shock body to make sure there was clearance. I took a set of cheap Toyota MR2 struts and drilled a little hole in the bottom to drain out the oil. They are loaded in the strut tubes just for keeping geometry, no friction. The only tricky part is the motion ratio is different than the strut. Right now I am thinking Penske 7500's for the shock. They are reasonably priced, come custom valved to my parameters, have multiple lengths, and are double adjustable.
    1 point
  22. First time spraying base-clear urethane. Made lots of mistakes and have a lot of runs, but live and learn! To be fair, painting an engine bay with added stiffeners and sharp angles is tough, even for the experienced. Sprayed epoxy. Sprayed silver urethane base coat 8 hours later, followed by clear. Masked off the urethane and scuffed the overlap yo give it some “tooth” for the asphalt (3M) undercoating. All still within the epoxy cute window so it should harden rock solid. Working on prep work in the interior but it’s hot as heck out here! Stay cool my friends. IMG_8831.MOV
    1 point
  23. With those giant rotors, you will not generate very much heat into the pad (relative of course). The Wilwood pads are surprisingly excellent for that application in street or track duty.
    1 point
  24. @Zetsaz @berton Video is up. Ended up being a longer video than expected so editing took a while. 240Z Steering Rack & Column
    1 point
  25. hatepotholez, I had a similar problem with new Precision Door Weatherstripping as you. I fixed it in one day and did not spent any money on the repair. I will post how I did it in my next post -V8 Z forum Gen III & IV Chev V8Z coming soon. Check it out! Toolman
    1 point
  26. @jhm thanks John!! I found a pair for a reasonable price on the eBay site you shared and got them on order. Many thanks!! Now to noodle a flare option and get it all mounted before I finish bodywork dunno what I’d do without this community. Thanks all
    1 point
  27. In my experience, the metal will rust under the filler if you don't first seal the metal with epoxy paint. This exact situation was occurring with the hood I'm restoring on my build page - rusty metal under the filler. Is it a real problem? I don't know for sure. There was no sign of rust from the outside...but it was definitely there, and the reason I prefer to put epoxy down first, then filler.
    1 point
  28. Removed all the body leading. Not clear if this was factory or from a previous repair. Will do some welding to bind the seams, the apply short-stranded fiberglass filler to fill the gap. Took a DA sander to existing finish. Lots of body work ahead. IMG_8413.MOV
    1 point
  29. Had a great weekend watching Jason's 3,000 lb datsun put down low 10 second passes effortlessly using the super 8.8 setup on cheap coilovers and stock control arms. He pulled a personal best of 9.9 @ 134 at the end of that weekend.
    1 point
  30. Went to replace the rear wheel bearings on my Z and found this! Looks like the previous owner cut off the old bearing and took part of the stub axle with it. Please send me a PM if you have one. There are pairs on eBay but I don't need a set nor the companion flange or other parts. Just the stub axle. Thanks.
    1 point
  31. Just to follow up on this, I purchased the vents and they are nicely built and look sweet but they do NOT fit without modifying. I had to remove at least 1/4" of material from the edges to get them to fit in the hood recesses.
    1 point
  32. A little update on my ITB build. In the middle of this build I decided to buy a historic building and renovate it, then have my first child, so everything got pushed to the back. I am finally finding time to work on it all again. I think one of my biggest issues was voltage from my old alternator, upgrading that has made everything more happy. Well finally got my osgiken clutch out and went with a stage 1 from exedy with a lightened steel flywheel. The osgiken was way too hard for me to street drive and my wife hated it. It was poorly installed by me and it's a pretty racey clutch. I sent to Z car off to a guru. Andrew Kazanis, he swapped the clutch, found my clunk (exhaust hitting during load) and change my rear main seal. Then his buddy Matt finally fixed my passenger regulator. Which hasn't worked in years. I went with a repopped one. Matt thinks my rear end is a little noisy, but Andrew can't hear it. I cannot thank Andrew enough for all his help. He is a friend and just an all around great guy. If I was to start this over, I would pick an ECU that someone in the area knows. I think ITB is something I jumped into, without enough knowledge or money. So many small issues popped up, and all stopped or slowed me down massively. You really end up chasing your own tail a lot, trying to do all of this. A few on here and on facebook have helped a ton. Tioga, Richard Boyk, Rodney have helped so much. I can't thank them all enough. Maps, settings etc... Somehow they have completely different views on pretty much all of the maps, but all are very knowledgeable and all know a ton more then me. It will be interesting as I road tune which maps/ settings I like more. Haltech is nicely made stuff, but I found their original software extremely hard to figure out. They have since done a massive massive upgrade (NSP) and it's much easier to use now and much more intuitive. Also tells you when settings and maps are in conflict. Which is huge! I am getting pretty confidante and I think I have all the small ECU settings correct. The ECU should start self tuning. So time to drive her and get it running right. I literally got stuck for months from one stupid box being checked, I couldn't get the idle right during cold starts! IAC or not. I will most likely attempt to use IAC again. I have it fully plumbed and wired, it's also a learning feature of the ecu, so it should be the best route for cold starts. I will turn it off after say 100 degrees, which the motor idles fine after that. My hand throttle works, also using timing to help cold starts also helps a ton. Also don't rip out perfectly good jenvy throttles, for vintage SK throttles unless you are dumb:)
    1 point
  33. We don't need to guess here. The wind tunnel testing did the MSA spoiler (BRE spoiler) and a 5.25" tall spoiler. At 120mph, the BRE made 22 lbs downforce. The 5.25" one made 30 more lbs downforce. Without a spoiler at baseline, it made 55 lbs of lift. The much bigger thing with regards to Z car aero is to do something in the front. Cover up that huge hole in the front and I expect you'd see some real gains at the drag strip. Stock, the test car made 320 lbs LIFT. That work that the air is doing is slowing you down. If you look at the wind tunnel results the stock test #2 the car had .471 CD. If you look at the last test with the car with the most aero mods was .407. The hp to drive the baseline car at 120 was 102. The hp to drive it with the front end mostly blocked off was 88. So closing up the front is like giving yourself another 14 hp at the fast end of the track.
    1 point
  34. Couple pics from a recent install I did a couple weeks ago in a customers car.
    1 point
  35. "71c" transmission. Technically this one was out of a Silvia, but it's the same as the late s14 ones.
    1 point
  36. She's in! Need to bleed the clutch to check everything but it's all bolted up to the engine side and alternator is back on. Waiting on a new speedo cable, reverse switch, and shifter gasket before I fill it up. Afterward I'll get the new driveshaft in and double check everything Spent a decent chunk of time before it was rebuilt cleaning the bellhousing and tailhousing so they were painted and cleaned up a bit. It's looking nice with that new T3 crossmember even though it's not perfect. Currently on the way are a new intercooler and piping among a few other things. Edit - Also removed the clutch weights from the Centerforce clutch per a L series builder's recommendation. Supposedly makes it difficult to shift once you start getting up to about 6k rpm. I don't expect to get there often, but with my modest goals and the added rotational weight, it feels like the added clamping force isn't worth the tradeoff of some questionable shifting at high rpm
    1 point
  37. I built something similar for my race Z. I used .050” aluminum on the sides, and for the top and bottom the material is about the thickness of a beer can, about .010”. I used the lower right and left areas to funnel air for a second brake cooling duct on each side. Originally I had a sheet of lexan across the upper half, to block off the right and left upper half, and perforated the center for the radiator duct. After a bit of vigorous bump drafting the front got messed up a bit so the lexan went away. I really should replace it, the appearance was much better.
    1 point
  38. Thanks for your interest. I have spent the past several years trying to convince myself that I am not insane (though the project may be), and my move to the AME chassis was a big decision. It was a trade-off in spending money up front to save me time and ultimately get a car capable of handling the way I would expect after dumping tons of money into it regardless of which direction I choose. I have followed some of the other members' projects, and I see tons of work going into reinforcing the unibody which ultimately adds a lot of weight anyway. My goal with the AME chassis is that it, together with a minimally designed roll cage to meet NHRA / SCCA requirements, will provide all of the primary rigidity for the car, and the small remaining shell of the body I will use will just go along for the ride pretty much. I have struggled with coming to terms on a few aspects of the project. I don't like super wide wheels that protrude far outside the original body lines of the car. I wanted to keep that minimal, while recognizing that I would definitely need fender flares for what I have planned. Initially I wanted 17" wheels because I though 18" wheels looked strange on the Z car and was afraid they would just transmit too much road vibration to make it enjoyable to drive on the street. Plus, 17" tires now are relatively cheap. However, I also wanted to stick with a max tire diameter of about 25", so I came up with limitations on the 17" wheels and tire sizes. I finally decided on 18", and both front and back will be 25" diameter. OE Datsun tires were 24.6 I believe, and I felt it important to stay as close as possible to that. The narrowest track width (hub to hub mounting) that AME offers is 55.5 (OE Z car is 54.5), so I went with that on the front and rear, and am using 5.5" backspacing on the front wheels (18 x 9) and 6.5 backspacing on the rear (18 x 10.5) to keep the wheels tucked in as much as possible. I'll be picking up my wheels within the next 60-90 days and will post pics when I have them.
    1 point
  39. Personally I think ARBs are just as useful to road racing as they are to autox. I know a lot of people like to argue that point but they are a tool help with setup. I can tell from my hillclimbing days that my car was easier/nicer to drive when using ARBs to balance the fast corners. You can spring the car stiff enough to not need them but if you don't have a really smooth course it will not put power down as well and the car will have a lot more of a snappy feel when loaded up and ride over bumps. In the end it's all down to how you like the car to feel and what makes you confident in how the car behaves. If you have no confidence and feel is crap it doesn't matter how fast XYZ driver is with a similar setup. What I learned about the splined bars is that you need to rate test them about 3 times before they will read the same. If a bar is used then it will probably do this. I bought some from Roush years ago that were supposed to be used and came in new packaging. You can rate test them on the car locking the other opposite side at level ride height and then handing weights from the spindle or weld a hook to an old steel wheel and bolt that on to simulate the best experience and then hang weights from a chain and use a laser level on the wall or piece of plywood or similar. Your just looking for what happens hole to hole. And you can run both sides in different holes to split the rate (most people forget this). The advantage to this method is you will know what the installed rate at the wheel is. That's what you need for all the spreadsheets that calculate wheel loads. You might as well make some droop limiters too while you are there. If you add a forward facing arm you can build a stop using a pivoting foot bolt (https://www.mcmaster.com/leveling-pads/). Or use the arm side and capture how far it can extend. Just make sure there's enough clearance for the wheel/tire combo. Hope that helps, Cary
    1 point
  40. Today i got an odd little NOS piece set in my mailbox. I found these turn signals a while ago in Germany. When i checked the part numbers, i realized the European Microfiches say it's a "West germany" Spec part. 1x Left side 26165-N3600 and 1x right side 26160-N3600. This made me even more curious, so i got them. I'm not sure why they're different. Must probably have been some local law or regulation (Similar to the french taillights), which required different blinkers. Here is a comparison of three different types. Left: West germany". It has a tilted rubber piece, for a more angled turn signal, and a long tail connecting cable. Center: Original ones that came on my 1972 swiss (european spec) cars, with straight rubber. Unfortunately the cable was cut, so i have no reference here. Right: Some asian Turn signal reproductions with a short tail cable and different connector and "straight" rubber. I wish i could find out the reason behind this. An odd and probably rare piece. Nice to have in my collection.
    1 point
  41. Couple pics of various cars that got back to me with progress of their builds.
    1 point
  42. https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/?fbclid=IwAR2T8lFNnlM0_l6ywNaPiWWpnX3fLlONFA_vq1zqM3Z1f21CSq6Z0vUeZxk Here's a link to their datsun parts
    1 point
  43. They're the same. You can check the FSM also for more verification.
    1 point
  44. Hello Newbie, Looks like you have found a decent looking car. Should you need help with most anything related to your new z, there is tons of good information here at HybZ and over on ClassicZcar. Searching past post will reveal discussions on most topics and well thought out questions usually are answered by those who have traveled the road before. Welcome.
    1 point
  45. @jhm @clarkspeed thank you both, sincerely. I may be a smidge perfectionist, and I say that equally as a criticism and an asset. I think I have frustrated the heck out of Greg by now LOL. “Dude get that tub on the track” haha I have some serious EP GCR challenges with the tube steel, but if I suck as a driver I doubt the judges/competitors will press the point. I suppose it would be a welcome problem to have. Most of this will be hidden under aluminum cladding. No better feeling than when you take the hood back off, place it back in the car, and hear that sweet “click” noise without the car putting up a fight. you can see what I did with one of pics. Welded the tube into the general “location”, then welded the pin mounting plate directly to the tube with the hood on, all from underneath. That’s how I ensured there was no lateral load on the pin. The hood flexes quite a bit, so I could not rely on dimensions off-car. i plan to put in two rubber bump-stops mid-way back under the hood, as the hood “sits” flatter than the fenders. Need a little encouragement to sit-up.
    1 point
  46. Car is still around. Still drysumped LS2, jenvey throttles with quaife 6 speed sequential and independent 9 inch. 18 x 11 wheels and 300 mm slicks all round, big AP brakes. Cool car, but the process over 9 years has been expensive. 3 x R200s, 3 t56 gearbox’s, 3 sets of coil overs, 2 sets of brakes (plus numerous rotors and pads -last set of maintenance rotors and pads was $3400. I motor blown due to oil pressure, one due to a lifter, one cooked, but still ran. Driveline is not bullet proof, but works hard so requires a little maintenance. Video is what I class as a diagnostic video. It also happens to show a Z doing a 2.18 lap around Bathurst. My quaife had dropped one tooth on 3rd gear.
    1 point
  47. Thanks, and for some reason that's the filetype my iphone saves them as (I'd never heard of it either). Hopefully these will work...
    1 point
  48. I guess at $2500 a set I have good taste. Anyone know of any similar wheels for $1000 or less?
    1 point
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