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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/23/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
  2. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  3. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  4. 1 point
    I searched this topic myself for a long time and finally bit the bullet and went with 225/50 15 Toyo Proxes R888r. I do not like the thread pattern on the Kuhmo all season tires so this was the only option at a decent price. I don't think I will be taking this car to the track any time soon but I really like the look of this setup and I needed to get new tires when I bought the car. Instead of spending money for tires on the original Mag wheels I just got wheels and tires all at once. I know these tires will not last many miles, but I don't plan on daily driving this car. I don't know why it was difficult to get examples of the fitment on 15x8 Rota RKRs being as it's such a popular setup for 240zs (S30s in general). My car was lowered on Tokico 1050 springs (discontinued) I'm not sure what the drop is as it was done by previous owner. I did have to roll the rear fenders a bit as there is a bit of rub when it goes over bumps. Excuse the dirty car. Ed.
  5. 1 point
    I'm more excited to see people come out and have a good time! As my project shows, these cars are always evolving, so you gotta take time and smell the race gas.
  6. 1 point
    Where to start? There is so many possibilities, I'm sure I can come up with a few for you but I'll start with this one, this is a mod I wish the factory would have done, there would have been a lot less rust in the rear of the Z's'. I just welded a 4" lip to the rain gutter on both sides, now instead of water pooling on the back deck lid it runs right off.
  7. 1 point
    News Flash: "TimZ and Chickenman possessed/channeling TonyD on HybridZ..." My "ignore" button worked well... I had no clue what you guys were ranting about until I noticed the "You've chosen to ignore content by NewZed. Options" after the fact... Imagine that, the day TonyD was not the ranting guy. Imagine that!
  8. 1 point
    Calm down boys, babies aren't dying here. I'll run the fancy bolt/washer. I'm so deep into this car anyway, whats an extra $20.
  9. 1 point
    I got a headliner from the Z store.com and you're right it was quite thick. Had to trim about an inch on the sides and the back because it was a little oversized. Also I thought I could be safe with the spray-on adhesive and not get it everywhere so I didn't tape off the upper vinyls and yes I ended up getting glue everywhere haha. But I used a clean cloth and that stuff called Goo Gone and it came right off no problem... I did however cover my up my seats with a old bed sheet. I used SEM gloss black vinyl paint on the new headliner and it look'
  10. 1 point
    She came home last week. The shop wants me to bring the car back as soon as possible, once I clean and sort it out, for a photoshoot. Super Street is the rumor. I don't care either way I just want someone to shoot the car. Needs a paint correction baaaad. But she wouldn't boost at all, it was running very lean. Idled fine..After a little investigation I discovered the source of the problem. The trailer ride back over stirred up some **** in the gas tank which proceeded to severely clog one of my fuel filters. I also developed a couple leaks due to things heating up and cooling back down a few times. Like the rear diff cover needed another go around to stop some seepage, and the turbo oil feed gasket failed, so I made a replacement for that. The fuel filter fixed the lean condition, obviously, and the car boosts beautifully. It's a hoot at only 5-6psi out of the tiny t3. A wonderful starting platform. It really feels like what you'd expect a racecar to feel like on the road. It feels LIGHT. It takes no effort to move itself, and it feels very stiff. I have not come close to losing grip. The car is very planted and balanced. Makes sense....it was corner balanced. The carbon interior, not being fully installed, doesn't even rattle. I expected it to rattle like a snake, but nope.....a couple loose screws on some plastics in the rear, but the dash is Gerbraltskis. Rock solid. The new 5 speed n/a zx transmission is wonderful. The rear end does transfer a bit of noise into the cockpit, some of which I will attempt to quell, but otherwise it isn't overly concerning for me. I LOVE every second of it. It is serious sensory overload. The sound, the look, the feel of being surrounded by carbon....the response....it's the whole package. I am very happy. Now I am putting the car back in the air to confirm all the bolts under the car are still tight. I'm looking at you diff bolts.....axle bolts....lug nuts. It looks like shit now...I can't wait to clean it up a bit. It's a car again! Now it's time to make it a better one. 125 miles in. She hits.
  11. 1 point
    I can also add that once performance driving is tasted in an environment where it is safe to go beyond the traction envelope and spin out without harm.... you'll see the street never could have delivered the goods. "Adulthood" is a different pursuit entirely. ;) [Insert Peter Pan reference.]
  12. 1 point
    Concur 100%. In my experience across several states, Zs only have a chance at truly being competitive in FP. Other classes will have cars that we can't keep up with, if they show up. It's never fun to be the only car in your class and "win." Like all forms of racing, one must maximize class allowances to allow the driver a chance to compete. The S30 just isn't a platform for competition against a modern car. It is however that platform that connects driver to the road most directly. Our Zs are among the most exciting cars to autocross in terms of adrenaline for this reason. Racers with faster times get out of my Z hooting and hollering. I'm with Jon. I target competing against a few cars or drivers. I prefer to have a passenger than drive alone. Why hog the adrenaline? Get in! I pursue excitement. I feel like I win, because I'm driving my dream car since I was 17. And that's my best victory, really. FWIW.
  13. 1 point
    Socorob: If you lowered the car with springs or Coil overs. Did you shorten the strut tubes? If not you are probably running out of suspension travel and hitting the bump stops. Common problem. Then you have to put Box Car springs in the thing to keep it off the bump stops. Not ideal.
  14. 1 point
    jhm, Thank you for taking the time to reply, I will see id if they can help out.
  15. 1 point
    His car is a series one, and yours is a non-US '78 260Z, so you should expect a bit more weight, all else equal. I read a post from John C once saying that an early 280Z chassis was 100lbs heavier than a late 240Z, and a late 280Z was 300lbs heavier than an early 240Z. Seems like a big difference for just a chassis (I believe that was the context) but that's the only info I've ever found. I have a '76 chassis and an early 71 chassis, and I'm hoping I can weigh the two while stripped down and compare. I don't know how the non US late models compare to the US models.
  16. 1 point
    At Cars and Coffee, I found a nice spot for some pics...wish I had a higher end camera for some more picturesque photos like EF Ian's... But these are the best ones I've personally gotten so far I think, the spot and the lighting were just right...
  17. 1 point
    Ok, thank you all so much for your time and ideas. It turns out that I'm just a big idiot. I couldn't find whatever was smoking, almost took the dash off in my search. It took me a long time to even get to this point because I've been busy with school and work and the daylight just isn't what it is during the summer months (yet). ANYWAY. I get out the multimeter and do some more tests. I figure I'll try to make it smoke some more with the middle panel and vent panels out so I can see where it's coming from. This means I have to jump start it again, but I wanted to see how the voltage was doing before. OH, LOOK AT THAT, the battery is at 12.3 ish volts. THAT'S WEIRD. so I touch to the engine, yup, still 12.3, so the ground is good. Maybe I should actually test the positive connection. Hmm... would you look at that, it's only giving 3 volts. So I'm a big idiot. I take off the terminal and clean it (again! I swear to god, I brushed and cleaned very thoroughly when I changed the battery), notice there was some grease which came off. Don't know how it got on there. Starts right up when I reattach battery to terminal. I swear. to. god. I can't believe I'm so dumb. Drive it around the next day, it stopped again. Popped the hood, cleaned the terminals again, works again. WTF. I think it must be the anti-corrosion grease I bought which came with the felt pads when I got the battery. Never been an issue before, so idk why it seems like it's an insulator now. Fun story on the picture, before I cleaned the terminals off the second time, I found I could jump the car to itself using the battery which had a poor connection. Anyway, sorry for wasting everyone's time, but thought you deserved an update. TL;DR: OP is an idiot and didn't clean the grease off the positive terminal of the battery when installing. It was the battery's connection the whole time.
  18. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums. I have moved your post from the FAQ section to allow responses. To answer your question, yes. Your stock axles should work with the correct OBX differential. Please take a moment to read the rules of the forum. Also note our search is not the best, try using google while limiting your search results to hybridz.org may yield easier to visualize results.
  19. 1 point
    Anything is possible with a drill, angle grinder, and a welder.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for all the inputs, I Installed a larger MC because the plans was to install the larger Toyota calipers and ventilated rotors, but I have been a little short on budget, I just ordered the spacers and the rotors, and I'm waiting for them to arrive (I live in Guatemala so that will take a few weeks ). And just as aditional info, I installed an electrical vacuum pump, 20 inch of vacuum, and the feeling was the same, so I opted to finally swap to the toyota calipers. I will keep you posted, Thanks guys,
  21. 1 point
    The new tires came in and had them mounted at the end of last week. This has me motivated to make some progress with the build. I called my old friend Tho Chung who has previously done the majority of fab work on the car, to see if I can get him to finish up the stitch welding in the front and rear of the car as well as cut out the rear floor with the spare tire well. Still waiting to hear back and plan accordingly.
  22. 1 point
    Hell- if you willing to spend that money , buy one of Datsun Works heads and something truly special
  23. 1 point
    Hi Guys, there is big differances with CVs. If parts wern't heat treated they would self destruct in no time. My kit is priced the way it is as I only use good quality parts. This is the CVs I use in my kit. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=301174M-28M As you can see they are $265.00 each that's almost a 1/3 of the cost of my kit. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html Joe
  24. 1 point
    RE: "Ramps Safer than Jackstands" As someone who has watched stamped-steel ramps rated at 3X the total weight of the vehicle driven upon them spontaneously collapse... "Not on my life ever again!" I will NEVER use a ramp of stamped-steel ever again, as well as those three-legged jack stands that look like they were made from muffler tubing split a 120 degrees. I have a solid wood set of ramps I use, and an injection moulded plastic set that I use. Once the car is up on the ramps SOMETHING blocks it there, and SOMETHING is under the frame. *** As for pulling the pan...it's all above, nothing insurmountable...usually biggest issue is the Nissan Applied gaskets are like a subatomic bond with the block and pan and splitting them apart can be a chore even with a special Nazi-Era Scraper that you can whang in there with a rawhide mallet to separate the surfaces. I tend to spray up into and onto the inner block surfaces with brake cleaner to prevent oil from rolling down into the gasket area while mounting and sealing. I use the brake cleaner into each of the bolt holes to prevent oil up inside from coming out and making a leak path in the sealant. Finally, I use studs on the reassembly, all sunk in and sealed (to prevent the oil path mentioned above.) The use of studs allows me to make them long enough to accommodate 1/2" 'sandwich plates' similar to that used on later L28's and L28ET's to spread the clamping function of the pan bolts (nuts) without deforming the pan rails. They are made from 1/2"x1/8" or strap steel I get at Home Depot's metal rack. I make the rails straight, put the clamping sandwich strips on there, and use Flanged Nuts to squeeze it all together. There are two studs that are longer than the rest situated diagonally opposite corners...I put the pan with sealant on it up until I can get a flange nut started on one, then the one in the back... This lets the pan sit without touching the flanges for a final inspection and maybe alcohol wipe before pushing it up to sealant contact and finger tightening those two nuts. After that, you can quickly do the rest of the nuts. With a piece of 1/2 square keystock set in your vice you can put your pan over it and beat those concave bolt holes down flat again...and using the above clamping sandwich strips with flanged nuts will keep you from ever having to do it again! I also have a bitchen $300+ breakaway torque screwdriver (that someone else paid for) I can use to tighten the bolts exactly where they need to be... I prefer Loctite 598 as sealant alone, or as gasket dressing. If you have a gasket you really need the sandwich strips and a flat flange. With Loctite 598 you can lay your proper bead for sealing, snug the nuts to get initial compression, let it set up overnight/24 hours to cure and then retorque to proper number the next day to get some compression on the 'gasket' you just made with the 598. Loctite 598 and Permatex Ultra Black are EXACTLY the same substance, BOTH made by Henkel and simply marketed in different markets with different brands. This comes straight from Henkel Technical Support Engineering. We use it on our oil sumps which are immersed in hot oil 24/7/365 and rarely are expected to be opened for inspection before 5 years of continuous running. It is more tolerant of surface debris / contamination than prior RTV's. Our testing indicated between metal blocks, a bead will have at least a 40X espansion rate in close fitting pieces...meaning a 2mm bead will spread to 80mm wide EASILY when compressed. A 2mm bead is ALL you need if you have less than 1mm distortion. By putting a 2mm bead on the pan and then tightening to metal-to-metal, the bead will EASILY compress to cover the entire mounting flange area, even in the warped areas...effectively permanently sealing the gaps. *** Even when I don't replace the bolts with studs... those two diagonal studs and flange nuts are installed it helps hold the pan coming off as well! They're like 1" long....I cap them with a piece of vacuum tubing after install so the exposed threads are not gummed up with road grime. If you get realllllly fancy and have longer studs that stick out at least 1/4" beyond the face of the flange nut...those vinyl vacuum caps that are available in Red, Blue, Yellow, Black make for a bitchen detail all around the pan surface as a nice contrast... You know.... "While you're in there..."
  25. 1 point
    WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while 84-85 are fully mechanical. ALL 86-89 cars have the connector in the engine wiring harness, but it does not do anything on manuals. The Automatic TPS has the secondary set wires on it with the connector, but the manual does not. The automatic TPS can be put on a manual car and it'll function perfectly everytime, you can even plug that connector in...but that connector isnt doing ANYTHING. Source: 1989 300ZX FSM Don't argue with stuff you don't know, and have just observed on your cars. I've made Z31 engine harness', I know where that connector goes, and its for nothing on the manual. If you get a chance to mess with nistune, you'll also notice it shows no throttle position on Z31 ECUs, but it will on Z32s. It shows "IDLESWITCH" as one of the possible faults. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html