Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 door, orange. I also own a 1976 280z that currently being built up into another fun toy and R&D test bed for future products. Much of my involvement on 'The Realm' has been sharing in my experimentation (Yamaha R1 carbs on a KA24e and MegaJolt EDIS ignition etc...) and learnings. "..I wonder if he is just cutting flanges off old u-joint axles and welding them on to "CV" axles..." - nope. I manufacture brand new adapters/flanges, accurate up to 4 thousands of an inch on centering/mounting to make them dead smooth. The flange's bolt-hole placement is left to CNC machining for repeatable accuracy. "...Not sure that they're much better than a u-joint axle though. What's the benefit?" - Several benefits: As the U-joints in our axles fail, finding replacements has been difficult, at least for me. Also, with lowered Datsuns, the larger angles within the axle exaggerates a U joint's inability to rotate at a constant speed. These newer CV axles (short for Constant Velocity), can rotate at more consistent speeds with larger angles. The end result is a noticeably smoother ride - even for Datsuns with seemingly fine stock axles. Another reputed benefit is more drivetrain efficiency and a couple percent increase power to the wheels. "I wonder where the came up with the torque limit. Breaking welds? " : A LOT of engineering went into these CVs - down to shear calculations, metals selected for the adapters and how it interfaces with the CV, impacts from tempering, redundancy in fastening etc... Calculations showed that the fastening/welding technique is ~20-30% higher than the stubs at their weakest point. Back to the question, the torque limit was placed because that's the approximate OEM limit that the axle is designed for, and I wanted to limit anyone trying these axles on over the top machines. As previously posted the axles are comparable to the Subaru STI which are quite capable. My guess on the weakest link now lies in either the axle splines or the shoulder/D bolts themselves. " Being that the stub axle is such a weak spot..." - I'm not sure where on the stub you are referring to but I do offer an integrated stub CV where an OEM STI stub is directly fastened onto the CV housing - in 3 different manners (it's NOT coming off!). It's really slick with only 4 bolts to fasten the axle onto a clip-in diff setup. A similar R200 version is in the plans for this spring as well. I hope that answers the questions. My CV axles are designed to fill a niche market and not directly compete with existing products/vendors. There are already several options for owners with massive HP and/or heavy track duty needs. My CVs, and frankly the basis of all my future products, are intended to be an affordable & original solution that offers a level of reliability (read: lack of maintenance) you expect from a street car, be it stock or with a moderate swap/upgrade powerplant.
  2. 2 points
    Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
  3. 2 points
    Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
  4. 2 points
    Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enabled it but set proper settings and filters on it. Send me a PM with your E-mail address and I will send you a touched up Tune. This is just a Baseline . but should be an improvement. I also do Remote Tuning and offer full Tunes built for your particular engine specs.
  7. 2 points
    I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
  8. 1 point
    I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R
  9. 1 point
    Yep thanks wiring is ok. I found the problem, the voltage meter got damaged/jammed by sandlast media going in there during restoration process.... Will try to find another gauge..... Thanks everyone for your help!
  10. 1 point
    Will message you regarding purchase. All other questions covered in PDF https://www.dropbox.com/s/23dj8il5rru20i3/Z31%20Turbo%20CV%20axle%20ConversionV4.pdf?dl=0
  11. 1 point
    I'm replacing most everything on my Z, and even trying to go as cheap as possible on everything, and using lots of junk yard parts and doing 100% of the labor myself, I still can't find a way to spend less then 15k. A much better way to do a "full" upgrade, would be to upgrade everything else that isn't engine related first (brakes, suspension, chassis strengthening, seats, paint, bodykit?, etc) before you touch the engine. As soon as the engine comes out, you'll want to upgrade everything "while you're there". At this point, just add 3-5 years onto whatever time budget you gave yourself unless you're one of those crazy singular focus ultra driven workhorses that apparently has no other hobbies. Man I'm jealous of those people. There's an Australian guy on youtube right who documented pretty much every aspect of his Z restoration. You might want to give his damn near 90 videos a watch and see if that's what you want to do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCk_vb_SJctymCkwnF6sAwDg
  12. 1 point
    Lol yeah, I assumed as much. Figured on that first compression/decompression plastic ones would pop fairly quickly.
  13. 1 point
    ++1 Fel-Pro. 9 years since build with no leaks!
  14. 1 point
    Hi Folks, maybe its interesting for some of you so I like to share the process on my Z with you. Normally I import cars from JP to Germany but my Z is from the lone star state Texas and find its way to Germany this spring. Little curious story: The last TX owner lived 1mi from Gasmonkey Garage and as you all know they had build a Datsun before last Semi. I think mine was in too bad shape so Richard don't bought it for the build, but anyway.. I bought my car at the 19.03 this year from a Moviecardealer in Berlin and get it into m garage a few days later. Because of oo many other project the car sits in my yard for some weeks before I can start. End of April I striped it down and get it blasted and primed. After That I had startet with some welding jobs, but theres nothing to bad so I will finish that next week and the car cango to the paint shop. This is hot it actually looks: Some test fittings. I also cleaned put the whole engine bay and make everything smooth and nice. The interesting part will follow after the car would came back from the painter in Slate Gray. Following Parts are waiting in my garage for the install after the paint or are in transit: SR20DET with Stock S15 top mounted Turbo, complete handmade 3" exhaust, Apexi Power FC and wiring specialities harness Sparco Seats, Black leather interior with grey stitch, Nardi Steering, New Center Console, Speedhut Gauges, AEM AFR All underneath is black or red powder coated with new PU-Bushes BC Racing Coils and 10x17 and 8,5x17 Japan Racing Wheels with Federal RSR Semi Slicks, complete R33 Skyline Brake System with extra Handbrake Caliper Front Aidam, 240Z Style Bumpers and Fender Flares There are a lot more little modifications, will update more interesting thinks after car is at the paintshop and I can start to put the engine together and do some fabrication. Have a nice Sunday. Alex
  15. 1 point
    Went digging in the junkyard today with the CV spider in my pocket. Turns out the 02 explorer has the same diameter shaft ends... but courser splines. The good news is its a solid heat treated shaft and its the same thickness its whole length, necking down only for the splines. I also called moser and talked to them about sending in a core shaft and paying for two pairs of CV axle spline service and they're happy to do it so long as they look everything over and it seams like it works. Cutting the heat treating off the hollow shafts just wasn't sitting well with me. I also discovered that the two left shafts are different on the ends in diameter and one had a slightly smaller cv joint pair... I'm guessing i got one v8 shaft and the other from a v6 car. Both are splined the same into the housing and at the hubs... but one is stronger than the other with bigger cv joints. The left and right v8 shaft have the same size cv joints... its just the spare left shaft had some differences. Going back to the junkyard tomorrow to compare my cv joint to the explorer outer cv. If they are the same internally i plan on building a hybrid cv. But if they're different I'll pay for 2 pairs of spline service and know that I'll never have to worry about the strength of those shafts...
  16. 1 point
    Really cool. Love it. Never seen that swap before.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks! I looked into that at one point, too, with the swp but they all seemed to mount too far out and would either hit the inner fender well or not clear the hood. This bracket kit for the lwp is pretty simple, looks clean, and worked well with my mostly stock wiring.
  18. 1 point
    Depends what you want. I like 16s and can confirm that with narrow coilover conversion RBR 16x8 +10 fit with stock arches and 225 tyres, anything that brings the wheel further to the outside of the car than this could potentially lead to the need to run 215s although you may get way with a 0 offset. Usually more choice in 15" by the way but I prefer 16" and need it to clear my brakes. Good tip, don't use the forum search, use google using hybridz.org at the start, always gets better results. I searched when I was a newbie and it took a lot of time, but the answers are there. Just make sure to check more than 1 source, ideally more than two.
  19. 1 point
    Yes there was a batch that wasn't annealed properly. Somehow they slipped thru their QC. Common problem is what you see here too hard the end just snaps off. If you have a set you would like to have checked please send them back to me. I will take care of it for you. Sorry for the inconvenience. FYI the manufacture just upped their price on each part by $50.00. So that puts my cost at $750.00 plus shipping almost what they sell them for. Don't forget I need to buy 10 parts at a time. Thanks Joe
  20. 1 point
    280zx has a completely different body. Why would it?
  21. 1 point
    A little background info: car was stock when I bought it from NC, with 80k on engine frame rails replaced undercoating redone floor pans replaced tub scraped, repainted, dynamat l28e replaced with rb20det rb20det with new intake manifold, exhaust manifold (soon to be replaced turbo, injectors, coils) custom exhaust I'm in the process of putting the engine back together and then it is getting dropped back in. Then will put in some coil overs, even though bags would be INSANE on this car. Then tires, wheels, some small other changes, as well as putting in a nice interior. I'm hoping this car will be up and running for Spring time!! I can't wait to rip my baby around(:
  22. 1 point
    Procedure is in the FSM Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
  23. 1 point
    Contacted him via facebook and he responded almost immediately. Would recommend this route if you still can't reach him. Brad
  24. 1 point
    I can't tell you how many times I have watched your Youtube videos and had a smile from ear to ear with the sound of your car ZRedBaron.... Amazing!!!
  25. 1 point
    YEH!!! I got it solved! - I had short linked to ignition black blue and black yellow, as my "s" on ignition was not getting switched. From the measurements I noticed that via the ignition coil, 12volts is also active back from the black-blue in the "on" setting. Due to the short link, the pump/injection relais switched both relais at the same time, causing a mess in that control circuit. - I fixed the ignition switch first, and got that sort of solved (bad chinees replica) - Now still no power in the pump, with the strange things as described before - I started pulling plugs again, and then I also noticed the seat belt warning light was off. I disconnected the seat belt (which i had locked months ago to avoid the beep), and tried again. Suddenly I got the beep-beep sound again. - Tried it the ignition again , and it worked!!! I think the seat belt relais was stuck and causing some leak, and that together with the bad switching on the relais from the bad ignition switch, and my short link. Now I got my fuel pump working, and engine running (after an explosion in my improvised air intake hose, due to starter fluid). Engine starts nice, but drops after 5 seconds. Think my fuel level is too low. Man...! lots of fuel is needed to be put into that tank before the outflow nozzle is reached from totally empty. Thx for all the help, and I' m sure I will need some more soon:-) Joost
  26. 1 point
    You're talking about an early S30 - 1970-1976, right? Not a '77-'78? The rotating mechanism in the earlies can get sticky over the years and the grease turns solid. A temporary fix is to lube the rotating mechanism on the outside of the door with some spray lube. Overdo it - turn by hand and release until it rotates smoothly and easily. The real fix is to take apart the door, remove the entire mechanism to completely clean and re-lube it before re-installing...
  27. 1 point
    JHM i have been looking through said diagram and it was a big help. Basically I compared the 240 vs 260 and what is actually in my car and was able to get everything working. I now have 12V at the distributor EDIT: when the key is turned on! not all the cabin stuff seems to be working but I don't care because racecar and most of it is still waiting to come out. Yeah I am running my fan, light bar, starter, fuel pump and alternator with new wire/fuses/relays. I'll post it up when i get it done. First order of business is to charge the batter that is putting out 8.8V during cranking... If i actually get the motor to fire I will start the process if getting every looking nice.
  28. 1 point
    Question has been answered many times. There are whole web pages dedicated to your question. Google "r200 swaps" etc. Search HybridZ and classiczcars.com Start here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm http://www.jasonparuta.com/?page_id=1507
  29. 1 point
    Yeah HLS30... That's not JDM usually. He might have bought it in Japan, but for the US market, who knows. There's few records. We'd need the full vin to be able to realy search anything. HLS30-004xxx would be an earlier car, but could be a 260z too. If you get us a picture of the Vinplate it'll tell even more since we'd be able to see what the engine is supposed to be etc. That being said, if it's sitting in boxes, then it's a project with no real worth other than parts (I need a decent dash ) until you put it together. Download the FSM off xenons30 and go from there. only you can tell us what you have. We can give you estimates based on what you tell us but until then it's just conjecture. We will be able to tell you what goes where and a general process for putting it together. Obviously we're not going to be able to do it for you, nor would we want to. But don't be thinking you're sitting on a gold mine, unless your car has some really rare parts, such as anything that says 432 on it. Hagarty can help you with insuring it even while it's a project, so you might look into that. Otherwise give us more pictures, We are a hungry lot and a picture is worth 1000 words. Phar
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Also for what it's worth, you'd be amazed how "smooth" a well performing suspension can be. Stiff might feel sporty, but remember that the goal is to maintain contact over the road surface, not skip over it. Also don't forget that spring rates are acting as a force between two points. Required spring rate to reach max travel target is subject to weight of wheel package as well as chassis weight. Then there's also suspension geometey which is a huge reason some chassis run wildly different rates. A 400# spring on a 240sx might feel soft but absolutely brutal on a s30.
  32. 1 point
    Move this post to the "Engine Components/EMS/Megasquirt" Forum and look for "Chickenman" and/or "softopz". Chickenman does remote setups and tuning for a modest fee.
  33. 1 point
    It comes down to your vision of how the car will be built and used. Built two 240Z 350 SBC projects with 1989 Camaro WC T5 transmissions. First 240Z was built in 2001 for my teenage son. Car is still on the road. Second car built nine years ago. Daily driver. No problems. Also, the T5 fits well in the car with the shifter close to the stock position. Suggest that you spend a few weeks reviewing HybridZ threads on transmissions and purchase the JTR 240Z V8 installation manual. Many answers there.
  34. 1 point
    Go to your local community and sign up for a welding class. They usually aren't that expensive are incredibly valuable for a person with no experience welding. Afterwards you'll have a skill.
  35. 1 point
    Well, I suppose I should probably update this as it's been awhile. Nothing too huge going on though, just some cosmetic fine tuning in the engine bay. - Replaced all the hardware with fresh yellow zinc plated - New plated water pump pulley, and block off plates. - Made a throttle cable bracket for the Mikunis and eliminated the j-arm that went to the firewall bracket. - Made a new heatshield for the carbs. Bit of a frankenstein's monster, but it seems to work. 2 sheet of aluminium, some Nimbus GII (waffle) between them, and reflective gold tape in the underside. It now mounts onto the front of the carbs via a custom bracket. Pain in the A to remove, but less visually intrusive and it made room for the throttle cable bracket. - Painted the strut bracing brackets matte black. - Removed blue anodising from some AN fittings. - New Magnecor KV85 ignition leads. It was fun buying the universal kit and being able to route them however I wanted. - Red wrinkle powder coated the valve cover. Reckon that's about it for the under the hood now. Very happy with how everything looks! Threw in a few shots of the car too, just for fun ,:)
  36. 1 point
    These guys sell shims that thick and thicker. http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted I have them in my engine and would recommend them.
  37. 1 point
    Better late than never, I suppose? A few points The mock-up wheels are way too big (18s) but they are what I had on hand at the time. The garage is terribly messy. I am an amateur and have no idea what I am doing.
  38. 1 point
    I really hate you for posting this, and I hate myself for clicking on the thread. I've started assembling the parts I need for hydro, but now I'm calling around sourcing the parts for electric. Thanks for making it a bit easier/harder to choose. 🙄
  39. 1 point
    4130 easier to machine than mild steel? Maybe close to the same if annealed which it typically is not. Usually comes normalized which is going to be harder than mild steel, not terrible but definitely harder. If you go to a thinner section it would likely be easier than the large thickness parts. Welding is certainly doable but you need to be more careful with heat zone, ideally post treat to normalize. Choose filler carefully, fit properly, etc. I plan on using pretty much all 4130 on my car on what I add in the cage, floors, etc. It is stronger if treated correctly and can be lighter at the same strength if you go thinner wall. For example I'll use 1-1/2" .095 tubing in the cage where you would normally use .120 wall to get a similar or maybe a little better strength and a lighter part ~20%. But you have to be careful not to make it brittle or soften things up to the point of mild steel strength with the thinner section which is then weaker. And it is MUCH more expensive. Not insane but substantially more for material. 4130 is good for high performance thin walled structure type applications. Any of the energy transfer parts like hubs/axles look at 4340 or even 300M is best unless you get into some of the new "wonder alloys" and proper heat treat. 300M isn't stronger than 4340 natively, it just allows you to heat treat to a higher level without getting brittle which is how you get a much stronger part. 4130 might be a good option but cold rolled would likely be fine for most applications. The thicknesses you are showing here are plenty IMO. I'd look at bracing and structure a bit rather than throwing mass at the parts. I'll bet that it could be done thinner and still keep plenty of strength even in mild steel. That saves money and weight. 4130 would be much thinner. Generally you can get more strength three ways: mass stronger materials better design/engineering The second two are much better for performance. Design is free other than the time to do it which in the business world means money. But only costs on the initial setup, free on everything after that, maybe even cheaper if done right. Materials - cost is higher raw cost and often higher fabrication/heat treat/procedures. You just have to weigh out what it's worth to you or whoever is going to be buying it. Not trying to offend here, some of that is my opinion but based on facts and how things are done in higher performance applications. Every build on here is done differently and one of the things I really appreciate and enjoy on this forum is the tact that is generally afforded. Everyone's vision and budget is different and there is room for all of that here.
  40. 1 point
    Well, I have been regularly working on the car since my last post....just haven't posted in a while because it feels like I am spinning my wheels and not getting much done. I managed to finish the strut tower bars and sway bar mount reinforcements, and completed the modifications to the firewall to mount the Tilton master cylinders: Finished the structural modifications to the rear of the car for the fuel cell cage to drop in. Just have to re-skin the framework with sheet metal: And, spent some time welding up the assorted cutouts and holes from the bumpers, OEM exhaust, marker lights, antennas, and other items I won't be using. That's pretty much it. Feels like a lot of time invested over the past month or so without much progress. Thanks for looking.
  41. 1 point
    I'm more excited to see people come out and have a good time! As my project shows, these cars are always evolving, so you gotta take time and smell the race gas.
  42. 1 point
    Here's a much simpler method to checking whether it's a float level issue. Take a jet cover off and pull one main stack out. Use a flashlight to look down into the empty hole and see if fuel is spilling over the brim to the auxiliary venturi passageway. If it is, you have a float/needle and seat issue. This can be done with the fuel pump on (if electric) and/or the car running. It should take all of 30 seconds to do.
  43. 1 point
    Before proceeding, check that your rear shoes are not worn out and or not adjusted. Per question 7, it is possible that the reaction disk has fallen out. It is a rubber disk about the size of a quarter and 1/4 inch thick and goes between the booster and the MC push rod. They typically fall out when people change the MC , try to adjust the push rod, pull the push rod too far out of the booster such that the reaction disk is pulled out of a pocket it sits in and falls to the bottom of the booster. Symptom: pedal travels almost to the floor and then the brakes grab really hard. Recommend that you search HybridZ. There is a post by a member that details this problem. It may be in the FAQ bake section or in the brake forum. Do your research and before doing the next step. You will need to visually confirm that the disk has fallen out. 1. You do not have to remove the MC for this. 2. Remove the nuts that hold the MC to the booster. 3. Do not remove the brake lines from the MC. Just pull it away from the booster and push it aside. 4. Remove the spacer that goes between the MC and the booster. 5. With a flashlight, look inside the booster where the push rod is. You will see a star shaped "keeper" that holds the push rod seal in place. 6. Carefully remove the keeper so you don't bend it. You may have to reshape it when reinstalling it. 7. After the keeper is removed pull on the push rod until it comes out. The seal will come out with it. 8 With a flashlight look at the pocket in the booster where the push rod sits. You should see a black rubber disk. If all you see is shiny metal pocket, then the disk has fallen out. Now you have a choice: 1. Remove the booster and shake it around until the disk falls out or 2. Buy a new booster as it will have a disk installed. Note if you pull the push rod out too far while adjusting the length per the FSM then the new disk will fall out. Recommend that you glue (JB Weld) the disk to the push rod, even on new units. Just orient the booster in a vise with the push rod pointed up vertically. Dig out the disk , glue it to the push rod and then replace the push rod, seal and keeper in the booster. This will save your mental heath when adjusting the push rod length. Your Z is over 40 years old. In the interest of safety, I always completely rebuild the brake system on old cars before putting them on the road.
  44. 1 point
    Haha! Caught me. That is a 1978 280z that I backdated with a bunch of 240z stuff, and painted for a Canadian gentleman. If you'd like I could copy and paste my thread from another site and upload that here. There was some pretty awesome rust repair that went into that one. He is hopefully coming to get his car, and a boat I fixed for him by the weekend, or early next week. here's a link to that thread. It's got a shit ton of pictures. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9043433-1978-Datsun-280z-quot-resto-mod-quot-Progress-Thread Some teasers. I can make the same thread on Hybrid if people feel that may be cool. Then perhaps the owner could take control of the thread and keep it updated throughout the life of his car. Twinning is winning. Not sure if you mean the composter (the cubic looking thing next to the fence and driveway). Food scaps and other organic material are thrown in there, and over the course of a few months it is rotated to transform the contents into excellent soil, rich in nutrients, to supplement with yearly planting.
  45. 1 point
    She came home last week. The shop wants me to bring the car back as soon as possible, once I clean and sort it out, for a photoshoot. Super Street is the rumor. I don't care either way I just want someone to shoot the car. Needs a paint correction baaaad. But she wouldn't boost at all, it was running very lean. Idled fine..After a little investigation I discovered the source of the problem. The trailer ride back over stirred up some **** in the gas tank which proceeded to severely clog one of my fuel filters. I also developed a couple leaks due to things heating up and cooling back down a few times. Like the rear diff cover needed another go around to stop some seepage, and the turbo oil feed gasket failed, so I made a replacement for that. The fuel filter fixed the lean condition, obviously, and the car boosts beautifully. It's a hoot at only 5-6psi out of the tiny t3. A wonderful starting platform. It really feels like what you'd expect a racecar to feel like on the road. It feels LIGHT. It takes no effort to move itself, and it feels very stiff. I have not come close to losing grip. The car is very planted and balanced. Makes sense....it was corner balanced. The carbon interior, not being fully installed, doesn't even rattle. I expected it to rattle like a snake, but nope.....a couple loose screws on some plastics in the rear, but the dash is Gerbraltskis. Rock solid. The new 5 speed n/a zx transmission is wonderful. The rear end does transfer a bit of noise into the cockpit, some of which I will attempt to quell, but otherwise it isn't overly concerning for me. I LOVE every second of it. It is serious sensory overload. The sound, the look, the feel of being surrounded by carbon....the response....it's the whole package. I am very happy. Now I am putting the car back in the air to confirm all the bolts under the car are still tight. I'm looking at you diff bolts.....axle bolts....lug nuts. It looks like shit now...I can't wait to clean it up a bit. It's a car again! Now it's time to make it a better one. 125 miles in. She hits.
  46. 1 point
    I can also add that once performance driving is tasted in an environment where it is safe to go beyond the traction envelope and spin out without harm.... you'll see the street never could have delivered the goods. "Adulthood" is a different pursuit entirely. ;) [Insert Peter Pan reference.]
  47. 1 point
    Concur 100%. In my experience across several states, Zs only have a chance at truly being competitive in FP. Other classes will have cars that we can't keep up with, if they show up. It's never fun to be the only car in your class and "win." Like all forms of racing, one must maximize class allowances to allow the driver a chance to compete. The S30 just isn't a platform for competition against a modern car. It is however that platform that connects driver to the road most directly. Our Zs are among the most exciting cars to autocross in terms of adrenaline for this reason. Racers with faster times get out of my Z hooting and hollering. I'm with Jon. I target competing against a few cars or drivers. I prefer to have a passenger than drive alone. Why hog the adrenaline? Get in! I pursue excitement. I feel like I win, because I'm driving my dream car since I was 17. And that's my best victory, really. FWIW.
  48. 1 point
    jhm, Thank you for taking the time to reply, I will see id if they can help out.
  49. 1 point
    His car is a series one, and yours is a non-US '78 260Z, so you should expect a bit more weight, all else equal. I read a post from John C once saying that an early 280Z chassis was 100lbs heavier than a late 240Z, and a late 280Z was 300lbs heavier than an early 240Z. Seems like a big difference for just a chassis (I believe that was the context) but that's the only info I've ever found. I have a '76 chassis and an early 71 chassis, and I'm hoping I can weigh the two while stripped down and compare. I don't know how the non US late models compare to the US models.
  50. 1 point
    RE: "Ramps Safer than Jackstands" As someone who has watched stamped-steel ramps rated at 3X the total weight of the vehicle driven upon them spontaneously collapse... "Not on my life ever again!" I will NEVER use a ramp of stamped-steel ever again, as well as those three-legged jack stands that look like they were made from muffler tubing split a 120 degrees. I have a solid wood set of ramps I use, and an injection moulded plastic set that I use. Once the car is up on the ramps SOMETHING blocks it there, and SOMETHING is under the frame. *** As for pulling the pan...it's all above, nothing insurmountable...usually biggest issue is the Nissan Applied gaskets are like a subatomic bond with the block and pan and splitting them apart can be a chore even with a special Nazi-Era Scraper that you can whang in there with a rawhide mallet to separate the surfaces. I tend to spray up into and onto the inner block surfaces with brake cleaner to prevent oil from rolling down into the gasket area while mounting and sealing. I use the brake cleaner into each of the bolt holes to prevent oil up inside from coming out and making a leak path in the sealant. Finally, I use studs on the reassembly, all sunk in and sealed (to prevent the oil path mentioned above.) The use of studs allows me to make them long enough to accommodate 1/2" 'sandwich plates' similar to that used on later L28's and L28ET's to spread the clamping function of the pan bolts (nuts) without deforming the pan rails. They are made from 1/2"x1/8" or strap steel I get at Home Depot's metal rack. I make the rails straight, put the clamping sandwich strips on there, and use Flanged Nuts to squeeze it all together. There are two studs that are longer than the rest situated diagonally opposite corners...I put the pan with sealant on it up until I can get a flange nut started on one, then the one in the back... This lets the pan sit without touching the flanges for a final inspection and maybe alcohol wipe before pushing it up to sealant contact and finger tightening those two nuts. After that, you can quickly do the rest of the nuts. With a piece of 1/2 square keystock set in your vice you can put your pan over it and beat those concave bolt holes down flat again...and using the above clamping sandwich strips with flanged nuts will keep you from ever having to do it again! I also have a bitchen $300+ breakaway torque screwdriver (that someone else paid for) I can use to tighten the bolts exactly where they need to be... I prefer Loctite 598 as sealant alone, or as gasket dressing. If you have a gasket you really need the sandwich strips and a flat flange. With Loctite 598 you can lay your proper bead for sealing, snug the nuts to get initial compression, let it set up overnight/24 hours to cure and then retorque to proper number the next day to get some compression on the 'gasket' you just made with the 598. Loctite 598 and Permatex Ultra Black are EXACTLY the same substance, BOTH made by Henkel and simply marketed in different markets with different brands. This comes straight from Henkel Technical Support Engineering. We use it on our oil sumps which are immersed in hot oil 24/7/365 and rarely are expected to be opened for inspection before 5 years of continuous running. It is more tolerant of surface debris / contamination than prior RTV's. Our testing indicated between metal blocks, a bead will have at least a 40X espansion rate in close fitting pieces...meaning a 2mm bead will spread to 80mm wide EASILY when compressed. A 2mm bead is ALL you need if you have less than 1mm distortion. By putting a 2mm bead on the pan and then tightening to metal-to-metal, the bead will EASILY compress to cover the entire mounting flange area, even in the warped areas...effectively permanently sealing the gaps. *** Even when I don't replace the bolts with studs... those two diagonal studs and flange nuts are installed it helps hold the pan coming off as well! They're like 1" long....I cap them with a piece of vacuum tubing after install so the exposed threads are not gummed up with road grime. If you get realllllly fancy and have longer studs that stick out at least 1/4" beyond the face of the flange nut...those vinyl vacuum caps that are available in Red, Blue, Yellow, Black make for a bitchen detail all around the pan surface as a nice contrast... You know.... "While you're in there..."
  • Create New...