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  1. 2 points
    As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
  2. 2 points
    Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
  3. 2 points
    The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backing plate and the rotor vents. Doesn't look all that wonderful but I think it's going to work well. 1 down, 1 to go, then can modify my front end for the scoops and hook up the tubing.
  4. 2 points
    Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
  5. 2 points
    an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
  6. 1 point
    While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a snug fit by filing the sides to fit. I hope this helps somebody else with this problem. R
  7. 1 point
    Just cooked the pads and got some serious heat into the system. No brake cooling to speak of, which with wheels this small and wide is a real problem. The pedal felt alright, but the brake feel just didn't instill the confidence I wanted. I need to do some research and probably some testing to find something that I like. Water and Oil temps were a bigger problem, I could get about 3 hot laps before temps were too high.
  8. 1 point
    The u-joints can all be lubed. They might not have a Zerk fitting but they should have the hole with a slotted plug in it. Take the plug out, put a Zerk in, fill them up, and put the plug back in. Inspect the seals and seams closely for rust or looseness. If you do find a bad one, just replace the one. I found that the new aftermarket joints were looser than old Nissan joints.
  9. 1 point
    Got the Z tuned today! Made 295 hp and 340 ft/lbs torque at the wheels on 87 octane. The tuner thinks he can get to about 350 go on 93.
  10. 1 point
    I have some lap data to sift through but the car (and me) were much faster, around 10 seconds without getting 100% clean laps since the track was really busy. I didn't get much seat time because it rained all morning but I have 3 more weekends lined up. Most importantly the car feels GREAT now. I wish I could explain better how the car felt before but images driving around on 2" wide tires. Now it feels like a car should again with amazing predictability in the corners and improved grip in the front. The additional reinforcement is very noticeable and turn in is awesome with the NCRCAs. The fronts are wearing evenly now which is probably where 90% of the change that I feel. It also tucks the nose in really nice mid corner if I ease off throttle a bit. Anyone that has seat time at the track understands just how important confidence is to lap times and I feel comfortable in the 260 now. As for the engine and brake upgrades.. hoboy does she fly now, actually slightly terrifying going 136 down the back straight with no ABS to rely on . But seriously there were very few cars on track that pulled harder in the straights. The HT-10s are amazing and will lock up the tires pretty easy at higher speeds so I buy in to the guys who say that you only need better pads in most cases, If I was running longer that 20 minutes I would looks for upgrades to manage heat but that is a non-issues for the time being. I may look at getting some spacers for the rear this season but am largely happy with improving my times in the car as-is this season. The next big project is coilovers to reduce roll and rear end replacement. I will get some video next time and post it.
  11. 1 point
    Okay, now driven on both setups i can tell this mod is way stiffer than original. For normal winding roads, brisk thru roundabouts normal setup is more balanced for my use, but on highway driving faster stiffer feels bit safer. Wet auto-x track would be fun to test on both, i think stiffer would understeer a lot.
  12. 1 point
    Do you have the vacuum hose connected to the booster on the brakes? If so, disconnect it and plug it. You may have a big vacuum leak internal to the booster.
  13. 1 point
    Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
  14. 1 point
    I spent the day making up brake lines to fit the 3 configurations, bleeding each one and testing while trying to record it all on video. As @JMortensen suggested, compressed air is NOT a good substitute for brake fluid when testing a prop valves as you will see. So to any future readers please ignore my conclusions in the first post. The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. This testing was done on a 72/240z with a new 15/16" Master Cylinder, rebuilt 280z brake booster, all new Cunifer brake lines, SS flex hoses and Wilwood 120-6816 4 piston calipers on the rear. The fronts brakes were not tested. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I warmed up the brakes a bit then tried a panic stop, PS rear lock up but none of the others. Tried the same thing again and the DS front locked up but none of the others so I’m pretty close but will continue to test and play with it. So the front brakes are now getting 1200psi and rear 575psi. https://youtu.be/FWQ2V-w1Av4 For some reason the 3rd vid won't embed but the link is above.
  15. 1 point
    Fuel reserve warning light stopped working a while back so (after confirming continuity of the yellow/blue wire from the sender to the light) I changed the sender and the issue has been resolved. I used a replacement unit from @zcardepot.com which is of excellent quality, has the exact same factory connections and cost $78 (compared to the unit offered by MSA at $200 plus you need to splice in a different connector!!!). I made a wrench out of 2" PVC pipe to turn the lock ring very easily, which makes the whole job a breeze. With a Dremel, I made 4 slots on the inside edge of one end of a 6" section of straight pipe to coincide with the 4 crests that jut out from the top of the lock ring. A 90 degree elbow at the other end of the pipe makes for easy turning. I also cleaned up and painted the edges of the access port with bed liner, and replaced the weatherstripping foam on the inside of the cover. Pics below.
  16. 1 point
    My build has moved on quite a bit now, you make a list of things that need to be done and then keep finding other stuff to add to the list. I am very pleased with what the trimmer has done for me, all in leather and a decent price as well. I had to paint the floors and fit the sound deadening before it could go for trim, I also did a dry build of the dash and seats etc. Here some pics for those interested.
  17. 1 point
    Think of what the forces are that your subframe is currently going to be experiencing. It isn't holding the engine up, so all it's doing now is dealing with the lateral forces of your rack and pinion, and bit of vertical force from the front suspension arm rotating in it on each side. Personally I think you'd be better off triangulating the front side to reduce the moment arm your steering rack is going to be putting on it.
  18. 1 point
    I’ll add to this post, as it’s me over at CZCC with that for sale post. I have since found the matching 5020F front springs, and I also have two sets of those! All brand new. I’ve lowered the price to $100 per set of 4 (2-5020F and 2-5020R) Mind you the total lack of response to this thread might indicate interest in these springs is pretty low, but who knows. Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca if you’re interested.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Considering the fiat 124 is a mx5 (ND) with different panels, why not go for the mx5, should be cheaper and make custom front end and rear end so it doesn't look so much like a fiat 124 with a datsun roofline? it would be a mx5 underneath anyway, just more personal?
  21. 1 point
    Well after MANY years of searching, dreaming, reading and creeping around this site I finally got a Z! She an early 74 260 All original 2 owner car and I couldn’t be more excited about finally getting one these cars. The Car Has been in California since new so hopefully rust if any is minimal. The owner of the car passed away and the control of his estate wanted to get rid of the car in a hurry so bought it for 3k which I feel is an amazing deal! I can’t wait to dive into the car and make it my own.
  22. 1 point
    Heck ya, axles looking good. Btw, 2018 mustang stick v8 cars are using gt350 axles. Gt350 axles are basically the same right axle, but the left has been increased in diameter and cv size. They will not work for this conversion. So you need v8 axles 2015 to 2017 and 2018 must be v8 automatic axles.
  23. 1 point
    I would find a level surface, and some good reference points on the car body, and see if the car is tilted or the flares are one the car incorrectly. Or if something else is going on. Reference points might be something obvious like the back bumper, or the bumper mounting points. Or the inner wheel well arches. Or the sub-frame mounting points for the suspension. If the car boy is tilted,then adjusting the suspension is reasonable,and will bring the body back in to line. If the flares are off, then adjusting the car body will introduce other weirdness, like a tilted look from the back.
  24. 1 point
    Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
  25. 1 point
    Hood pins/latches and vents installed:
  26. 1 point
    @ETI2K, since you asked about corrosion control...these are two good products to consider. Have used both for several years with good results. https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Dynatron-Auto-Seam-Sealer-Caulk/?N=5002385+3293193911&rt=rud
  27. 1 point
    Personally I have stopped using weldthru primer, useless. Stitch weld, clean everything up well, 2k epoxy prime, continuous bead of seam sealer just the way OEM does then paint and undercoat. Good for another 40yrs.
  28. 1 point
    My car acctually have a rear mounted swaybar from when i bought it.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    You're in the entirely wrong area, but here you go
  31. 1 point
    Having trouble uploading the video, but if it worked here's a lap from my recent visit to buttonwillow. Had some running issues, but overall felt great to get out on track. edit; re uploaded w/ youtube. https://youtu.be/xv4rmxQ1vH8
  32. 1 point
    Only you, the owner/driver, can answer the question of Eibach (or any similar lowering spring) vs stock. Do you want stock ride height and softer ride, of do you want lowering and firmer suspension? Tokico is another good lowering spring, but they're pretty hard to find at this point. Vogtland seems to get good reviews, but I have no personal experience with them. Here's a link to one vendor for the high-quality bump stops referred to above. Pricey, but worth it if you're serious about good handling: http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm
  33. 1 point
    oh wow sometimes i can be such a neanderthal i swear. Found the source of my supposed 'rod knock' ... a nice 1/8" hole under the #2 air smog pipe that connects all the exhaust runners on the manifold together, like i cant believe i didn't even stick my hand around that area to quickly check for a leak. Heh though i don't regret checking the rod bearings and i certainly don't regret cleaning the filthy oil pan, all's well that ends well thanks everyone!
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    So, I was randomly looking back through my old posts and stumble back on my intro for HBZ. 5 years ago I got hooked on Datsuns. I stopped posting to focus on reading and learning more. Because of the overwhelming amount of information available about these cars I didn’t find it necessary to ask many questions. I stopped updating my introduction after i bought the 76 280z. The 280z has come along way since then! In the past 5 years it’s seen a lot of redoing. Iv’e changed wheels, flares, engines, ECUs, a few times. Although not the most efficient way to modify a car, it is allowing me to learn, improve and keeps me interested in the process. My only underlying goal with modifying it is to keep pushing toward the car having a “special” feeling to it. I can’t define a “special” feeling exactly but it’s a feeling i would like to have when i look at the car in the garage, sit in it, show it off, and while driving. A few years ago I swapped the l28 for a l28et. My first engine swap. It went pretty well and the experience was a huge confidence booster. It made the car feel way better on the highway and the exhaust note was awesome! The next year i decided to hop up the power a little and add Injectors, FP, larger turbo, IC, 3in exhaust and MegaSquirt. I had some help tuning and was able to learn a bunch about wiring and street tuning. The power gain was pretty substantial. Although I did not get a change to dyno it, my guess is it made around 300hp with a lot of torque. I really felt like this was the sweet spot for the car. Enough power to feel “fast” compared to a modern car, but not too crazy. A few months later I decided to start liking the Gnose. The Gnose really transformed the look of the car. I took the car to Gridlife Midwest and it won Best JNC classic! A proud moment for me as it was my first car show and i honestly didn’t build it with the intent of entering or winning any. Last winter the Z got some greatly needed upgraded wheels, and a RB25 fell into my lap. I wanted to keep the white blue contrast going and had some Wantanabe RS8s custom built for the Z. The wheel size and width are totally for athletic purposes and I’m fine with that. I had been wanting to do a RB swap since before i did the l28et swap, they where just too pricey at the time. That winter I stumble across a cheap local RB25 for sale locally, and decided to take the plunge. I refreshed all of the accessories on the RB and installed an upgraded turbo, turbo manifold, ECU Masters EMU Black, custom wiring harness, 1000cc injectors, even larger FP, fuel rail, and open dump external waist gate. I also took the opportunity to clean up and paint the engine bay. People would always ask me to see the turbo swap and with how messy the bay was before i was kinda embarrassed to. I learned so much during the first swap the RB swap came out so much cleaner and came together much more easily than i would have thought. This time I did all of the initial tuning myself and took it to the dyno to get it fine tuned under boost. Made 400hp on 93. The RB25 make the car feel much more modern and refined when not in boost. On boost its pretty intense! It kinda feels like having a loaded gun on you. I was missing with the idea of tuning it on e85 but i think I am good with the power it has for now. I’m also still using the u-joints in the rear, so I am planning to upgrade the whole rear end soon. Also happened to win a showcase award at Clean Culture MI! In all, I've been humbled by how much other people enjoy the car. I've met interesting people, made good friends from people just starting conversations about it. HBZ has been a constant resource for me throughout this project. Thank you all for the quality info and keeping the forum alive!
  36. 1 point
    Thanks jhm. As FYI to all I'll be having a 1yr anniversary sale starting next week and ending Cyber Monday. https://datsunrestomods.com/blogs/news
  37. 1 point
    Not sure about you guys, but I struggled with bench grinders and angle grinders for years (decades) before I saw the light. Once I built myself a 2x72 belt grinder (mostly used by knifemakers) my workshop was transformed. I just finished working with some 3/8" x 5" flatbar in a project, and I was destroying metal that big in no time with a 36 grit ceramic belt. I can see a million uses for this working on cars, including using (fantastic) scotchbrite belts to give a nice finish to stainless and aluminum parts. 5 seconds with one of those belts transforms crappy looking metal. Now that I have it, I cannot imagine a shop being complete without it. These things run upwards of $3000 it seems, granted at that price you get variable speed, multiple contact wheels, aftersales support, etc. Being frugal as we are, I managed to put one together for less than $400. (And then promptly spent $300 on belts, lol) I should have done this years sooner... Can only imagine how much better my Z parts would have been if I had. If you are interested here's a link to my youtube channel with a vid. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtyEKcRbODF-sTWDF3kgEYw/about Not in the Z games these days, but the time may come again. Catch you all later.
  38. 1 point
    this gets better and better.... you can run a 1350 u joint yoke directly without any adapters.
  39. 1 point
    I was having trouble getting a video that made sense of the Forester and 260z overlayed. After reviewing data and video it is clear I was being light on the throttle (which I kind of knew) and shifting too early (not in the power band). I am confident I can shave 4 seconds off of sector 3 if I stay in 4th and brake 350ft later lol, my corner exit speed is way better in the 260z. Looking at sector 4 gave me a lot more confidence in the car and reminded me that it is all about the idiot behind the wheel. Sector 4 goes from a hard flat 90 right to a very tricky blind uphill that you really need to sweep a 1 turn with no brakes. It is nice to be able to see where exactly I made mistakes and really I was just being too timid with my speed. That being said I could see a ton of roll in external video, upgraded bars it is. Next season I will have more alignment capability so I am hoping to make my goal of getting in to the high 1:40s. Sector Trap Time 1 2 3 4 5 6 16.62 37.1 19.55 13.48 21.76 16.64 Forester 16.02 34.95 16.75 13.45 20.04 16.01 260Z 0.6 2.15 2.8 0.03 1.72 0.63 delta Sector Trap Speed 81 109 46 60 53 70 77 113 38 65 59 77 -4 4 -8 5 6 7
  40. 1 point
    Moving along on the suspension and engine mock up. Slow going.......
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Welcome aboard and that is an interesting concept you are considering. I wonder if the smaller and lighter Toyota 86 or older Scion frs/ Subaru brz would be a better candidate. Older models are relatively inexpensive.
  43. 1 point
    Welcome Very interesting. Mark's build is probably along the same lines or the project ardvark build. The reason I think people restore the rusty frames are to have the all important VIN number which allows registration and insurance. Kit cars without a VIN of sorts can be difficult to get certified for insurance or road use. If it is a track only toy then the requirements are much less, granted I think some places still want VINs for insurance purposes even for race cars. Would be interesting, 350z's are pretty affordable, and if you could find a way to use the sub frames and such and the stock suspension pickup points the list of benefits would be pretty neat. The problem then would be you are basically building a lighter 350z with a body kit. Mark has a very modified power plant and suspension setup, and the project aardvark has similarly extensive modification, but for drift usage. I'm not sure how the car would be running 350z geometry in a shorter wheel base with a different balance and different weight. Will be interested in what you come up with!
  44. 1 point
    If you're asking that question, you can't do it. Either spend a ton of money having an auto fabrication shop doing all the work for you, or change your mind on doing it. If none of those options are suitable for you, then spend hours and hours learning to fabricate and pour over other peoples build threads until you can find enough similarity in swapping some engine into a Subaru, and swapping an RB engine into something that normally doesn't have one.
  45. 1 point
    In 2002 I started a collaboration with John Radevich of JCI in Dallas, Texas. The goal was to build my 1977 280Z into a daily driver using an LS1 and T56. Ya search of "LS1 / T56 Update" will give a lot of the history of that project that resulted in one of the first S30's on the road with that combination in June of 2003 and a conversion component kit sold worldwide by JCI. Since then over 16 years and about 45,000 miles have passed. The car has been raced on quarter mile tracks, done the combination oval and infield at Texas Motor Speedway, done autocross work and a hillclimb. In between those fun events it has been my fair weather daily driver. The move from Texas to Washington state eliminated winter driving due to the corrosive deicing material used by WSDOT. Could it have been done better? Back then, probably not, but today definitely so. I'm happy to see all the aftermarket equipment available for these cars. I used to only shop at Motorport Ajuto in Orange, CA (zcarparts.com) for my bparts but with the drivetrain conversion my world was opened up to Arizona Z Car, Techno Toy Tuning, Silvermine and so many others. Every year that has gone by has seen the development of quality parts and systems for these cars - like zledslights.com down in Weslaco, TX and Dapper Lighting with their LED lighting conversions and Braille for their great Lithium Ion lightweight batteries IMG_4214.MOV IMG_4214.MOV . One thing that has remained constant, however, is the quality of the designed parts and equipment provided by JCI during that project so many years ago. To this day I have not had issue with any component designed by them. Thanks John, you did well for me.
  46. 1 point
    The engine is in and bolted to the front mounts. And it appears my modified brackets will work. Whew! Here are a few photos.
  47. 1 point
    Well I don't see a reaction disk in there.... Edit: also based on the crustynes of the booster and the fact that i can get one from autozone for under $100 with tax and shipping I plan to just replace it.
  48. 1 point
    The amount of help on here is extraordinary. I appreciate all the advice, I'm doing as suggested and picking up some books, but mainly diving into other builds more. I'm also trying to take smaller bites, or at least take a section on at a time so I don't end up with the "Paralysis by analysis" bug. I decided to just take my time/and tear it down to frame.. get it blasted then primed in 2k, which will allow me to make any adjustments during the 2jz/(154 or CD009) . Thanks again for the advice guys..
  49. 1 point
    It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
  50. 1 point
    I don't know how much lower the front of the diff will be with that mount, but there is a shorter version of the energy suspension mount that would help bring the nose of the diff back up some. Look into part number 3.1158
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