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  1. I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there
    3 points
  2. Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back.
    2 points
  3. For this build I decided to jump in with both feet and learn how to build fiberglass. I found out early on that I would need to build up a custom air dam so I decided to build out a door as a trial to learn the process. I have done plenty of small FG projects but never something large that involves building a mold tool. You can see the process in the pictures. First sanding and waxing the door (plug) and applying mold release. Then a layer of gelcoat and then laying down multiple layers of heavy matt until the mold has enough strength and rigidity not to break when pulling the
    2 points
  4. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  5. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  6. I have been driving this thing longer and longer distances, trying to correct all the bugs and other things that I didn't like. Some of the issues: After 50 or 60 miles, it would shred the serpentine belt. I found that the tensioner was approximately .12" out of alignment with the other pulleys. This was strange since the tensioner is a GM LS3 part, but I shimmed it a bit and solved the shredding problem. Then it started throwing the belt. I switched to a belt a couple of sizes smaller (shorter) and that problem seems solved. I had minor leakage around t
    1 point
  7. Factory brakes are designed as a system. Change one component and it has a domino affect. You will need to consider brake bias in your decision on matching front brakes to the Mustang brake you already have. I recommend that you read up on front to rear brake bias before making a decision on any front brake install. Brake bias is covered extensively in the Brake Forum.
    1 point
  8. Interested seen the post on Facebook! Sent a message thank you
    1 point
  9. @clarkspeed Thanks for the incredibly comprehensive response Clark!! 1) 100%. Have GC coilovers at each corner w/ GC bolt-in camber plates (to maintain EP spec). Will adjust ride height after the exhaust is in. 2 & 3) You have given me a lot to think about here. Car came with 3/4"" spacers, so I'll have to measure and possible buy more or taller spacers once I have the ride height set. Greg runs 3 1" spacers stacked, and has one machined to make-up for the effect on camber/angle of the LCA mounting surface. 4) 10-4! I am allowed 2" extra track total (1
    1 point
  10. I've never seen that thread before, so much good info! Thanks
    1 point
  11. He posted it there first, and then I advised him to post it here
    1 point
  12. It's horrible on both ends. A customer gets screwed unjustifiably, and a once honorable and valued company (Whitehead was good to me) is irreparably damaged at best, about to go under at worst. Whether it's Paypal or a straight credit card purchase, I keep a close eye on the dispute deadlines. If they are approaching, I always file a dispute/claim, regardless of what the merchant claims or excuses they have. Unless it's a trivial sum of money that I am willing to risk. Long range, often international transactions, would be completely undoable without som
    1 point
  13. What kind of flares are those on the rear? I looked through the 9 pages and didn't see a brand or name.
    1 point
  14. Thanks guys! @clarkspeed Daytona sounds like a real trick with the speed differential. Can you opt for a main shaft that you can just barely get rolling off the line, but allows the top speed? I keep thinking about a Winters style quick change, so I don't have to rebuild a couple of rear ends around my diff. I think my ratios are good for my power, and I just need to modify top speed with final drive. Looking at west coast tracks, I think a top speed in the 150's is ideal. much faster you need tons more power, and a 5 or 6 speed to keep the ratios reasonable.
    1 point
  15. [Holly Shiiittte. I have dreamed of this many times and realize your difficulties. On gear ratio, I am facing a similar problem. I have a Jerico 4 speed in the car I am building which is always 1:1 in 4th for those in the know. I am looking at multiple tire diameters but limited to 16 or smaller on rim. Smaller the better for weight. But Daytona is one of the tracks I must build for, and that is max speed whatever your car will do. So unless I can move to a 3.3 or lower gear or I will need to increase tire diameter. So I am thinking about a 26-27 tall 15" tire (think Nascar) or swapping a Ford
    1 point
  16. Was thinking my first set from GC in '95 or so had 5" adjusters. Just to clarify. Looks to me like you might run the spring to the bottom of the adjuster without getting the ride height you want. You could grind the perch off of the strut tube, but that's a hassle. The other solution is to run a shorter spring. Shortest spring that doesn't coil bind is always the best choice because it's lighter and it will resist bending sideways when it compresses. I started off with 10's, worked down to 8's and now run 7's, but I also have super stiff springs and run very low, so don't need 6" of travel.
    1 point
  17. One thing I add to these are safety washers on the outside of the rod ends on the strut. In case you need a link here you go, https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Washer-Prevent-Twelve-Through/dp/B07RB7RWMB. I think if you search around you can get a better price but it's been years since I've bought any. Cary
    1 point
  18. Awesome thank you so much!!!
    1 point
  19. I'll take a moment to reply to the tone of this comment. On HybridZ we (admins) are not suppressing feedback about vendors. What we are doing is trying to make sure a thread stays on topic so that future users will be able to use search and find good quality content that is helpful and relevant to their search. Ideally the original thread should have stayed on topic and a new thread started about vendor feedback. A link could be left in the technical thread and both discussions could happen and be more likely to be found be search in the future. Hope that helps, Cary
    1 point
  20. That is where it should go. Everyone usually mounts the cell at deck height which never made sense to me. Then you have to separate it from passenger with a big ass box or bulkhead design. Drop it down a little and you not only lower center of gravity, but your metal cover solution becomes so simple. I like to cover the hole with an aluminum or steel plate and then put a small 10x10 or so electrical box right over the filler cap.
    1 point
  21. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
    1 point
  22. almost done tuning the transmission (shift/throttle timing)... IMG_0405.MOV
    1 point
  23. I'm sure the all Japanese and all Nissan had some effect on the price but at $70,000 the egos of the final 2 bidders has to come in to play as well. I think you're right about a Z with a big block 572 but not because it is an American engine, it's because it's just not a good match for a Z, it's simply too big, too heavy and not at all in the style of a Z. The RB26 on the other hand fits perfectly with excellent power to weight ratio for a 240z and is very much in the nature of a nimble sports car. Dumping a monster engine in to a small light car although kind of fun in some ways wi
    1 point
  24. The idea behind the spindle locking pin is that it is an extra safety mechanism. If you lose one or both nuts and washers on the spindle pin it can't slide out, assuming you have one that can actually be removed without the use of a large press. I have used a bolt in mine an no pin or similar mechanism and have no plan to ever again. That said I do regular bolt/nut checks on my car as part of their maintenance, which a large portion of the public think is either silly or a complete waste of time. Probably the same people who shouldn't be driving an old car without all the modern nannies or
    1 point
  25. I have been trying to get all the suspension adjustments dialed in for the past couple of weeks. Kind of frustrating in front, as I'm sure you all know. Making one change affects everything else. Once I made all the changes necessary to get 6 degrees of caster, I found that all the angles changed sufficiently that it appeared to change the relative angles between the LCAs and the tie rods. So I had to quit dicking around and finally actually measure bump-steer. I found that my eye-balling of the relative angles of the LCAs and tie rods had been pretty close. To achi
    1 point
  26. I still enjoy bench racing on this forum also. So many things have been covered but technology changes with time and there is a real hardcore group here. I have a bunch of FB pages I comment on but it is just not the same as this forum.
    1 point
  27. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too 🤷🏽‍♂️😂
    1 point
  28. Just a point of detail, Quaife do still offer the lifetime warranty, they just exclude the US, Canada and Mexico. No idea why.
    1 point
  29. Aydin71 - I fully understand that you have certain regulations and rules limiting what you can and can't do. I should be very upfront and admit I'm a Quaife or OS Giken fan even though I have run an '89 LSD unit for years. The late John Coffey got me into OS Giken after testing a unit giving him a full second over the Quaife and 2.5 over the LSD unit. Quaife is good for life even if you race it. I'm on the east coast so shipping would be expensive but I would look for someone selling a Datsun R180 in the right ratio for you (3:90/4:11/4:38?) and then install a Quaife or OS Giken. You c
    1 point
  30. A couple of things based on 17 years and over 225+ track days with a 240 race car: Stock diff mount welded with two steel bars (17 years and no issues) Engine HP ranged from 150 to 350+ @rw Ran stock half shafts for 15 years with no issues Used any number of R180 diffs (3:90 Quaife/4:11 Quaife/4:38 OS Giken) Ran a 4:44 R190 LSD (stump puller) Swapped in an R200 3:90 w/Quaife using 300ZXT CVs w/Modern Motorsports stub axles The swap to the R200 was in response to toasting two R180s due to the 250rwhp/250#storque/10 inch wide rear R7 Hoosiers. One w
    1 point
  31. No updates for a while. We had a small vibration, not really bad, just annoying, and of course right at 65-70 MPH. When my wife drove the car we had the 3.07 differential in it, one attempt at finding the vibration. We put the 3.73 back in (whole chunk, nothing is shared between the two). And the vibration came back. Drive shaft out, re balanced, re tubed, trans out, looking for something, anything that may cause vibration. Half shafts out, again. Trans UP diff, down to get angles better. They were not far off before. All in attempt to cure this vibration. Called a loca
    1 point
  32. Realize I am late chiming in here, but what the heck. What Grannyknot said is correct, and right on the money. The metal directly above the rear view mirror is critical. I don't know if you are planning to do any of the work yourself but if so I would strongly suggest taking the car to a trusted body shop and have them put the car on a frame machine and having the roof straightened as best possible BEFORE ANY SHEET METAL IS REMOVED! Do not cut anything without having this done first! The right side A-pillar will come back to its correct position if the shop knows what they are doing. Think of
    1 point
  33. @calZ LOL, fair point I have been spending way too much time fabricating rust replacements, replacing roll bar mounts, and reinforcing the chassis. I think I'm getting carried away. I have been cutting quite a bit of weight by removing unnecessary components such as unused brackets and factory unibody-welded nuts. When incorporating monocoque structural components (cells, like tubes), you can reduce quite a bit of weight when compared to the resistance welded stamped steel. I may actually have to add-back weight to meet the 2150 lb spec., but at least then I can replace the weight as low as p
    1 point
  34. Sometimes a reality check is needed and that can be provided here by looking at Z race cars and their results. The fastest Z's have always used the basic stock suspension, it's great that there are those who think outside the box and who are willing to put their $ where their mouth is, Once they do that however they need to turn a profit so they have to be commited to their product. What does not seem to be widely understood by potential users is the complexity involved in any suspension redesign. At the very least the actual dimensions and locations of all components needs to be established u
    1 point
  35. Go for it. Take some pictures, it will be good entertainment. Are we talking Sawzall, hacksaw, file, grinder? Make a video. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD11S6PC357322 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S4RC354902 https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1N6SD16S0MC421925
    1 point
  36. Plenty strong is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't run a bar in my car that wasn't at least pinned.
    1 point
  37. I used to say exactly the same about Harbor Freight... Then they came out with their "Icon" line. "Snap On" quality for 1/4 the price. I have tried them. I hate to say it, but it's true. They are going to completely change the market for pro-level tools worldwide.
    1 point
  38. I live in the same area as you, and I have encountered that issue several times with Summit and other companies with products that cannot be shipped to California. I have made several trips to Summit, and I had to also make several trips to paint suppliers in Nevada to get the products needed to paint my car. Ironically though, if you do a bit of searching, there are a lot of companies in the other 49 states who do not give a crap about California law. They will ship products here even without the state's blessing. California governing is only going to get worse in this regard.
    1 point
  39. There used to be a rule on the site that there is no "best". Your choice depends on your plans. You haven't defined your plans, so really, your thread is just about what choices there are.
    1 point
  40. I bet when you were lower, your rear camber was closer to what the front was. That can make a big difference in balance especially if the tires are more camber sensitive. A little bit of toe can go a long way as well. Zero toe in the rear could be a big part of the looseness, depends on your rear toe compliance (rubber bushings or PU?). Also try zero toe up front or even a tad toe out to tone down the yaw rate gain a bit. YRG is essentially a measure of a vehicle's response to a given steering input--the more your point the tires out of the turn, the lower your YRG. Meaning point t
    1 point
  41. thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
    1 point
  42. I picked up a full set of brembo calipers front and rear from a 944 turbo. They appear to be very close to what Z Car Garage is using in their kit. I also grabbed some front rotors off of an LS430, 2001 I think. Acuras use a similar rotor also. I'll start a thread when I start my project but it may be in the spring.
    1 point
  43. If the guy who's going to buy your car in 2, 5, 20 years could talk to you now, he'd beg you not to use fiberglass.
    1 point
  44. Great points! If its just a matter of noise, im going to pass on the rubber. Great point on the angular change... I didn't think of that till just now.
    1 point
  45. I had thought about tossing a tube in there but ended up not doing it just because I havent had time to run to any metal supplier and with the current situation they're typically closed before I'm done work. I'm planning on inspecting these occasionally and if I see a good bit of flex i'll either add the tubing as suggested or bump up the material thickness by .125in. To be fair though the rona will probably be gone by the time I have this on the road. 😅
    1 point
  46. doing some final testing....(it repeats the dyno clip but there's more)
    1 point
  47. The VQ37 to my knowledge doesn't have good support with full standalone, and simply would not require it unless someone wanted to go for insane power, at which point I really think there are better platforms (LS anyone?). But the VQ37 with flashed stock ECU's also picks up more torque gains across the rev range than other VQ's. So for mild builds the potential to make pretty high N/A power is substantial with all the standard stuff that ought to be done in a swap (custom intake/exhaust/modified ECO with the security disabled, etc). We used ZFever to modify the stock ECU for this service.
    1 point
  48. IMHO, stainless steel is one of the most difficult (if not THE most difficult) material to work with for brake and fuel lines. The hardness of SS makes it more difficult to get leak-free connections as compared to softer metals. If the leaks are on the smaller/slower side, you may be able to resolve via loosening and tightening several times....helping the metal to take a "set" within the connection. It also helps to do this with the fixture unbolted from its mounting point (e.g. leave the Master Cylinder unbolted, or at least loose, on the brake booster when tightening the front and rear l
    1 point
  49. A major driver behind this was to maintain a factory brake bias and make things match front to rear. There are plenty of big brake kits already available with Wilwoods and custom hats. That's not what I was trying to do. The Odyssey rotors in those kits are further away from the upright, so the caliper is mounted completely outboard of the stock ears rather than in-line with them. I might be able to find a different slip on rotor that works in a similar location, but then wheel clearance becomes an issue
    1 point
  50. 1983 280zxt 2+2 -engine= stock bottom end, 185km on the clock -turbo= jy h-trim t04b compressor, t3 .82 stage 3 hotside -Exhaust system - 3" as well as muffler bypass behind rear wheel - How much boost- 21-23psi -ECU= I ran the time in my sig with a nistuned z31 ecu/z32 maf, i dyno'd with an infiniti m30 ecu/z32 maf - autospeed dc motor controller with an m15 and a m10 nozzle methanol setup. -CC injectors - z31 ecu/440cc - latest setup = m30ecu/nippon denso injectors flow tested@670cc -IC - dual grand national cores welded together with 2.
    1 point
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