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  1. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  2. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  3. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  4. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  5. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  6. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too 🤷🏽‍♂️😂
    1 point
  7. First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech re
    1 point
  8. @calZ LOL, fair point I have been spending way too much time fabricating rust replacements, replacing roll bar mounts, and reinforcing the chassis. I think I'm getting carried away. I have been cutting quite a bit of weight by removing unnecessary components such as unused brackets and factory unibody-welded nuts. When incorporating monocoque structural components (cells, like tubes), you can reduce quite a bit of weight when compared to the resistance welded stamped steel. I may actually have to add-back weight to meet the 2150 lb spec., but at least then I can replace the weight as low as p
    1 point
  9. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! I reached out to Fritz and he showed me another source for the LSD. Il be placing an order for his shafts shortly. I think this will be the best value overall, given the 20-30lbs weight savings and the LSD.
    1 point
  10. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
    1 point
  11. A buddy of mine made this one, this thing is the Hammer of Thor, it also helps to keep the torch on it.
    1 point
  12. The spindle pins are such a pain in the ass. Something I found really helped was getting a medium-sized tub, and then filling it with about a gallon of 50/50 ATF and acetone. It's like penetrating oil on steroids. Set the side of the strut/control arm assembly with the spindle pin into the tub and let it soak for 2 or 3 days. I stopped breaking threaded rod after that.
    1 point
  13. If they're bound then they're not doing anything, but if they're not then they're softer than the rest of the spring, hence the progressive part. The Tokicos are worse, and it's been an ongoing topic since the 90s. It is as designed though. If it bothers you get a non-progressive spring. Personally not a fan of progressive springs.
    1 point
  14. I bet when you were lower, your rear camber was closer to what the front was. That can make a big difference in balance especially if the tires are more camber sensitive. A little bit of toe can go a long way as well. Zero toe in the rear could be a big part of the looseness, depends on your rear toe compliance (rubber bushings or PU?). Also try zero toe up front or even a tad toe out to tone down the yaw rate gain a bit. YRG is essentially a measure of a vehicle's response to a given steering input--the more your point the tires out of the turn, the lower your YRG. Meaning point t
    1 point
  15. thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
    1 point
  16. At least a year or so ago Carbotech will put any of their compounds on a set of shoes. I purchased Rockauto shoes and removed the material before sending them to in. As to keeping them cool I will take a picture of what an EP/ITS backing plate looks like after having a several holes cut to allow heat to dissipate. I ran steel drums due the amount of heat generated, I think with the holes cut I could have used aluminum drums instead.
    1 point
  17. Check the simple stuff like the air intake. Make sure the throttle blade is opening completely. Check the intake system for mouse nests, they work fast. Make sure the filter is not clogged. Take the black cover off of the AFM and make sure the counterweight/vane is moving freely as you rev the engine. The AFM vanes have been known to bind. The only thing stopping an in-tune engine from revving and producing more power is air flow. Your symptom sounds kind of like an air flow problem.
    1 point
  18. I had thought about tossing a tube in there but ended up not doing it just because I havent had time to run to any metal supplier and with the current situation they're typically closed before I'm done work. I'm planning on inspecting these occasionally and if I see a good bit of flex i'll either add the tubing as suggested or bump up the material thickness by .125in. To be fair though the rona will probably be gone by the time I have this on the road. 😅
    1 point
  19. IMHO, stainless steel is one of the most difficult (if not THE most difficult) material to work with for brake and fuel lines. The hardness of SS makes it more difficult to get leak-free connections as compared to softer metals. If the leaks are on the smaller/slower side, you may be able to resolve via loosening and tightening several times....helping the metal to take a "set" within the connection. It also helps to do this with the fixture unbolted from its mounting point (e.g. leave the Master Cylinder unbolted, or at least loose, on the brake booster when tightening the front and rear l
    1 point
  20. Hello, im adding back to this thread as i was tagged by a few people in it so i have copied my responce from another thread. Hello everyone Intro Its Ohm from Apex. A few guys linked me to this forum to chime in. First off, ill like to publicly appologize to ervyone who has encoutered frustation with axles and components from us. Those who have ordered the first few kits when we first released were impacted with long wait times, and missing hardware. When i first launched the product mid last year I didn't realize the demand it would cause (also from the He
    1 point
  21. Hey guys, I've been a long time lurker but just seeing if there would be any interest for a weld-in chassis strengthening kit. I couldn't find anything on the market, so I decided to make one myself. I'm located in Sydney, Australia and will happily ship these kits overseas if there is enough interest. To register your interest (no commitment or deposit required) just follow the group-buy format of e.g. 1. sabiauto 2. ... At the moment this is just to see if there is enough interest for me to mass produce it. This will be
    1 point
  22. I'm pretty sure you don't want to use epoxy over flash rust. I mean, I've never tried it, but I wager it's a bad idea...
    1 point
  23. Crunch time! Still planning to test/tune in mid September and drive it to Nismo Fiesta in October. Shift actuator installed the transmission. Driveshaft arrived. Fixing leak on cam covers and while they are off we'll repaint them with a nice speckle red. I always loved the way Ferrari intakes looked with that texture. Lastly I'm converting the 3D printed canards into a mold to make carbon fiber parts.
    1 point
  24. While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a
    1 point
  25. So, are you going to tell us what the final fix was or did I miss it elsewhere in your thread ? Was it the stub axle ? Or the diff ?
    1 point
  26. Back again. Couple more updates. I got the driveshaft adapter back from my machine shop. and it fits like a glove between the BMW CV joint and the r200 input flange. I guess my measurements were pretty good and their machine work was top notch. I also went ahead and got the tires mounted onto my wheels and tossed them on for a brief test fit. Granted there's no sub-frame in the car to hold the wheel in place very much, but just hanging there, it's looking pretty good to get away with out any fender flares. In front sub-frame news, I think I have all the
    1 point
  27. Thank you all I will look at those websites. I also found a site called classic.autotrader.com and theres a lot of "cheap" ones there but I'll look at the websites you guys sent me. lol
    1 point
  28. That's just what the Actor, Mark Rolston would say.....
    1 point
  29. Thank you, I was coming up short! This is great info! What a compilation of pictures! This was especially helpful to visualize how people tie in the front strut towers to the rocker panels inside the front fender panels! I think most everything else I've done with my cage, it's pretty extensive. This has all been helpful to help me visualize it all, thanks again to you both!
    1 point
  30. here's a shot of the holes in the back panel and a pic of the hatch area that shows you how open the rear is to the ground. The rear suspension packaging is open. So the idea is to flow air past the diff up over the fuel cell and out the holes.
    1 point
  31. Interesting comments and I think that you have nailed the crucial weaknesses in the stock S30 body for race use. Basically the fire wall does not sufficiently connect forward to the front suspension load points. Also the attachment of the front X member which bolts to the rails, the stock four bolt setup allows flex, it's simple to add a couple of brackets forward to bolt to the rails.
    1 point
  32. I have used both the Maxima and 240SX rear calipers on my Z cars. The problem is that the bleeders do not point straight up such that air remains trapped in the cylinder. Wasted lots of time and fluid. Remove caliper with flex line connected method: You can remove the caliper while leaving the flex line connected. Block the piston so it can not move otherwise when you pump the brakes you will just blow the piston out of the cylinder and you will be very very sad. Hold the caliper so the bleeder points up and shake the caliper while your accomplice pumps t
    1 point
  33. I had a hell of a time getting my SBC V1.0 started on my first go around, replaced just about everything external to the engine with new stuff. Turns out it was way too retarded and any attempt to start failed or resulted in a backfire. Here is what I finally did and suggest that you do as well. -Remove #1 spark plug and valve cover (removing the timing cover is preferred but not easy) -Find top dead center of the compression stroke via methods already discussed (align crank and cam dots if you have the cover off, more accurate) -Take note of the position of your harmonic balan
    1 point
  34. So, I guess it worked , I am able to get a bit of camber and a bit of toe equal on both sides. Easier to control on throttle oversteer now. Here is how I spent my weekend
    1 point
  35. Taking orders now for my S30 super-lite strut-bars, available in August. Lightest on the market not forgetting that 'light is right' ! 5% off the parts' price for the first 50x orders*. *8x firm orders already placed as at Independance Day. US$260 £212 CAN$358 AUS$381 Kits so far are : front and rear bars front bar only New nuts and washers for the strut tops front and/or rear Price list in multiple currencies attached. Later, new front and rear caps will be available
    1 point
  36. Just cooked the pads and got some serious heat into the system. No brake cooling to speak of, which with wheels this small and wide is a real problem. The pedal felt alright, but the brake feel just didn't instill the confidence I wanted. I need to do some research and probably some testing to find something that I like. Water and Oil temps were a bigger problem, I could get about 3 hot laps before temps were too high.
    1 point
  37. SO..... I finished the job last night, and took her out today. What a change. It's no F1 or lowered monster, but it doesn't squat like it used to when I start off (it went from what felt like 2-3 inches to .5-1), won't dip when I brake, even hard (from what felt like 3-4 inches to maybe 1) and won't lean very much anymore as I turn. BUT most importantly, it'll now stick to the road. In the last few months, driving it felt like it was floating on the road, and not like a Bentley might cruise gently, but more like walking on a grate, where you foot is flat, but nor making co
    1 point
  38. I assume you're talking about these: https://silverproject.eu/front-lower-control-arm-adjustable-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/?currency=USD They are cheaper then what's offered by about everyone else, and they look cheaper too. Why they went with some welded in tube and bushing is beyond me when everyone else goes with a heim joint. Unless you plain on doing a lot of very specific tuning and adjusting the length, you're eventually going find a specific length you want, and then you have a arm that basically the same as the stock arm except probably heavier.
    1 point
  39. Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.
    1 point
  40. Do you have the vacuum hose connected to the booster on the brakes? If so, disconnect it and plug it. You may have a big vacuum leak internal to the booster.
    1 point
  41. Well I ended up getting the NCRCAs and T3 front triangulated bar installed. Two new tie rods and a fresh alignment (2mm toe out) in the front, I did find that the rear has a pretty big toe in issue. Nothing I can do about that at the moment but the tires don't seem to upset so I will just run with it. I did some more cage work in the mid and rear including a welded STB and connecting the main hoop to the roof rails. I still want to tie the front of the rockers to the frame rails and up to the strut towers but can't find time. The car feels extremely tight and planted now even a lower speed. Th
    1 point
  42. Always evolving. Stay tuned for some rear end work. I have found I have slight differences in my rear trailing arms. Even with the adjustable eccentric bushes I am unable to get any neg camber or toe on my right rear. Rather than reinvent the wheel, or add a new subframe we are gonna work on the mounts. The 9 inch rear cost me way to much to start from scratch.....
    1 point
  43. Think of what the forces are that your subframe is currently going to be experiencing. It isn't holding the engine up, so all it's doing now is dealing with the lateral forces of your rack and pinion, and bit of vertical force from the front suspension arm rotating in it on each side. Personally I think you'd be better off triangulating the front side to reduce the moment arm your steering rack is going to be putting on it.
    1 point
  44. There is a curve to the hatch in both directions. Good on you for fixing that thing. Pantera hatch is aerodynamically bad and would really hurt flow to the wing. Only thing they could have done worse would be a roof spoiler.
    1 point
  45. Made the parts for the battery tray area, need to welded in the last part. also finished the plates that will tie my new framerails to the old ones in the enginebay
    1 point
  46. Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
    1 point
  47. I had planned to work on installing the front suspension parts on my Z but I discovered that my supply of Gold powder was almost gone. So while I waited for the Gold Powder to arrive, I decided to finishing cutting the Right Front fender for the Rocket Bunny Flares. Like the Rear Flares, I made a Template of the already completed Left Front Fender. Note- I use almost all the fender edges( top, back, front and bottom) to create the template. The more reference points that you use, the more accurate the template will be. Side view of template Put template o
    1 point
  48. Wrong bolts (to small) between the driveshaft and hub could also clunk under load.
    1 point
  49. 1983 280zxt 2+2 -engine= stock bottom end, 185km on the clock -turbo= jy h-trim t04b compressor, t3 .82 stage 3 hotside -Exhaust system - 3" as well as muffler bypass behind rear wheel - How much boost- 21-23psi -ECU= I ran the time in my sig with a nistuned z31 ecu/z32 maf, i dyno'd with an infiniti m30 ecu/z32 maf - autospeed dc motor controller with an m15 and a m10 nozzle methanol setup. -CC injectors - z31 ecu/440cc - latest setup = m30ecu/nippon denso injectors flow tested@670cc -IC - dual grand national cores welded together with 2.
    1 point
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