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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/04/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it. I need to rework either the Diff mount or the trans mount to get it any further but it's only about a half a degree so I may live with it. I'm running the Technoversions RT mount and I switched to the top mount instead of the stock bottom. This brought the pinion angle down to 2.8 degrees. The transmission is at 2.9 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied. Hard to tell if it made much of a difference but the math says it should.
  2. 2 points
    As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
  3. 2 points
    Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
  4. 2 points
    The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backing plate and the rotor vents. Doesn't look all that wonderful but I think it's going to work well. 1 down, 1 to go, then can modify my front end for the scoops and hook up the tubing.
  5. 2 points
    Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
  6. 1 point
    Nevermind...a half dozen clamps, a lot of swearing, and perhaps 2-3 years off my life got the job done.
  7. 1 point
    I had thought about tossing a tube in there but ended up not doing it just because I havent had time to run to any metal supplier and with the current situation they're typically closed before I'm done work. I'm planning on inspecting these occasionally and if I see a good bit of flex i'll either add the tubing as suggested or bump up the material thickness by .125in. To be fair though the rona will probably be gone by the time I have this on the road. 😅
  8. 1 point
    Brian, I just went through this nightmare. You will need to cut it all out. The rear hatch slam lid is actually four pieces of metal spot welded together. Two vertical pieces that flare out in opposite directions, one lower “backing” which is what bends and creates your hatch mounding life. The LAST piece is what is visible and available for $130 Online. I attached some photos of my cut and rebuild. It took 2-3 weekends. I don’t have a metal brake, so I had to weld the 90’s. IMG_4558.MOV
  9. 1 point
    No, I only have one Z at the moment. The point I was trying to make is that I've owned several over the years; but I've never been willing to spend a big chunk of money on a nice one...opting instead to buy junkers and restore them myself. It's a satisfying process to build your own car, exactly the way you want it, vs buying something already pre-built.
  10. 1 point
    2 Months later ..... I've made some good progress, great progress really. I've been able to prototype 3 different revisions of actual engine mounts, and settle on a final version and fabricate them. I 've gotten the steering linkage sorted out, I put the pedal in for the first time with their lines connected to the bulkhead, and I got the engine wiring installed (very temporarily) and actually started it up for the first time in the car, with the whole drivetrain connected. So, engine mounts first. 3D printer was working overtime again going a few different versions. I ended up straying away from the idea of welding to the frame of the car in favor of going with a solution more like what Nissan had originally done. I welded some support stand offs from my custom subframe to come up to meet the engine side supports and rubber isolators. I just couldn't bring myself to weld to the front frame rails and lose the ability to drop the engine out the bottom of the car. Next, since most of this custom subframe and engine mount work was to manage to get my BMW steering rack into the best position, I had to figure out how to actually connect the Datsun column to that BMW rack. It turns out that the BMW rag joint has a nearly identical bolt pattern as the original Datsun one, so that let me just take apart the BMW one and use half of it to adapt the Datsun column down to a 3/4" DD shaft. Then I found a collapsible DD shaft online (3/4" on one side, 1" on the other) that I used to connect from the steering column, to a Flaming River universal joint that has a 1" DD on one side and the BMW spline pattern on the other. I also am using a poly version of the original Datsun steering column coupler. Result?? The steering feels absolutely perfect... 0 slop from the wheel all the way down through to the tires. https://youtu.be/18_B0R0pzEc Once all of the engine mounts were fabricated, and the engine was finally sitting in its final position, I decided it was time to get it running... I dug out my box of wiring from the engine stand and started hooking it up. I put the dash in since it had all of my gauges and switches now and hooked those up too. This was also a good opportunity to try out the new in tank fuel pump set up. (much improved in terms of the noise vs the externally mounted Boash 044) I filled up the coolant, topped off the oil put in a few gallons of 93 and gave it a try. First go, it didn't quite want to take, but I think there was just a bunch of air in the fuel rail. After a few more cranks, it came to life. Good stuff! https://youtu.be/hwrzxf-Cf7w https://youtu.be/JXuYEDszmUA https://youtu.be/KQYHxMbQgWU A few things coming up next... I made the decision to go with AN fittings for the radiator hoses, for a few reasons. 1) I'm kinda opposed to having to splice together a bunch of rubber hoses to get the shape I need. 2) Flexible radiator hoses aren't the aesthetic i'm going for. 3) despite is being a tough pill to swallow now $$ wise, it will make future trouble shooting or even modifications easier to adapt to a new set up if needed. I'm probably going to leave the engine in for a bit longer, give it some run time since it hasn't seen much since last August (2019) and try to get a few things sorted out like coolant overflow tank location, oil cooler location, and maybe a few more plumbing things. Then it's back down to a bare shell to make a rotisserie and get those floors and frame rails replaced.
  11. 1 point
    Signal and reverse lights cleaned up/painted and new lenses added. Will replace all the wiring later. Made some wheels out of swivel casters, 4x4's and U-bolts so I could push the car around. Also had to move garages which was slightly sketchy. In the new space with some major garage upgrades. Finally got the cage in for good. More details to come. Strut towers also cut for weld-in plates. Lining up the T3 weld-in camber plates. IMG_6134.mov Welded on both sides. In retrospect, it would have been prettier if I put them on top of the towers, but it seemed like this would be stronger. They'll be covered by STB brackets anyway. A huge haul of parts show up, as well as seats and belts. Quick test fit:
  12. 1 point
    The price and popularity of S30's has been going up for a while now, well before the 400z was even officially announced that they were going to make it. With more and more cars becoming numb, fat, and auto-only, there is going to be a shift back into older cars that aren't necessarily as fast, but are perceived as "more engaging". Add in that the S30 is beautiful, and is becoming more and more rare due to many of them having been fully rusted away or crashed into trees, and the price goes up. Until the price of gasoline becomes absurd (i.e. 20 dollars a gallon or more), I don't see the prices of these going down any time soon/ever. The people on Bringatrailer with too much money have definitely shot the price up faster than anyone could have ever imagined.
  13. 1 point
    While the Z is at my place, my Bodyshop gave me some homework: To completely strip the chassis from all the seam sealer, undercoating, bondo and paint so that it's easier for him to remove old welds and weld new stuff... started by removing the biggest chunks in the front inner fender area with a spatula. but after an hour i realized i need a faster solution. After a bit of research, i found this tihng called Turbo-Igel (Turbo Hedgehog). The name comes from the "hook" style spikes that remind of a hedgehog This thing works absolutely brilliantly and isnt really agressive to the metal due to it's unique shape. The problem is, after 10 minutes the effect really starts to weaken since the hooks get dull. but you still can u se it totally for about 30minutes at a maximum speed of 3500 rpm. then all the hooks are gone With two disks i managed to get this much done in approx. 2 hours of work: Well and while the car got cleaner, i got dirtier And i removed approx 3-4 kgs of Bondo / Paint, underbody coating, seam sealer etc.. Still a lot to do. for me and the bodyshop. can you see all those terribly cheap repair attempts from previus owner? And rusty spots? And dents where there shouldn't be? Well... i've come too far to stop now, i guess
  14. 1 point
    Searching old posts will set you free. Do a search and then read posts in reverse order. Why because most 240z issues were resolved almost twenty years ago. Think of HybridZ as an encyclopedia. Turn the page......................
  15. 1 point
    Some pretty good info here https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/134342-Dual-Clutch-Transmission-(DCT)
  16. 1 point
    Crunch time! Still planning to test/tune in mid September and drive it to Nismo Fiesta in October. Shift actuator installed the transmission. Driveshaft arrived. Fixing leak on cam covers and while they are off we'll repaint them with a nice speckle red. I always loved the way Ferrari intakes looked with that texture. Lastly I'm converting the 3D printed canards into a mold to make carbon fiber parts.
  17. 1 point
    Sub-frame is done... at least it's all tacked together. And wow, not to pat myself on the back or anything, but I am thrilled with the way it came out. It couldn't be packaged any better in my opinion given the placement I want for the engine. I checked the bump steer again, and now instead of my laser drawing a horizontal line when going through the wheel travel, it makes a much more suitable vertical line with an acceptable amount of variation. There are some small adjustments I could do down the road to make it even better on the pitman arm / tie rod side of things, but this is going to be it for now. We'll see how it drives and go from there. Onward to engine mounts... after some thought I think I'm going to try to a bit of a hybrid approach from what I was originally thinking. I'll get some more pics up, but basically, I'm thinking i'll incorporate the passenger side engine mount with this sub-frame and the driver side engine mount will be on the front frame rail. I think it's going to work better given the steering column placement and the environment. More to come
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Thank you all I will look at those websites. I also found a site called classic.autotrader.com and theres a lot of "cheap" ones there but I'll look at the websites you guys sent me. lol
  20. 1 point
    That's just what the Actor, Mark Rolston would say.....
  21. 1 point
    I think that they're showing "boxed" body components. Integral reinforcement as you said. Like the rocker panels are one of the most important structural elements of the unibody. People often overlook that area when dealing with rust. The "frame rails" are just added stiffeners. They'll replace the stiffeners and leave the rusted out rocker panels. So, when looking at the cowl, or any body area, look for those reinforced areas. But, I'm not a structural or automotive engineer, so don't put too much weight in to my words. Somebody had a thread on the site where they really went deep in to how to reinforce the body. I think that they even built a framework to load the frame and measure deflection. It might be in an FAQ area, or might be found by a search.
  22. 1 point
    Just cooked the pads and got some serious heat into the system. No brake cooling to speak of, which with wheels this small and wide is a real problem. The pedal felt alright, but the brake feel just didn't instill the confidence I wanted. I need to do some research and probably some testing to find something that I like. Water and Oil temps were a bigger problem, I could get about 3 hot laps before temps were too high.
  23. 1 point
    The u-joints can all be lubed. They might not have a Zerk fitting but they should have the hole with a slotted plug in it. Take the plug out, put a Zerk in, fill them up, and put the plug back in. Inspect the seals and seams closely for rust or looseness. If you do find a bad one, just replace the one. I found that the new aftermarket joints were looser than old Nissan joints.
  24. 1 point
    Progress has been slow but the car can be pushed around right now Work on wiring up the gauges, wiring harness etc is basically under way now. The frame for the fuel cell needs a couple more brackets and powder coat. Getting pretty close to sending back for paint Silicone intake hoses are probably coming out...but wanted to show a picture of where it is at.
  25. 1 point
    When I designed my new cross-member, I added notches to positively locate it laterally relative to the frame. The bolts don't take any shear load.
  26. 1 point
    Depends on the suspension. If it has basically stock suspension you can install them lower, but when you start moving to shorter coilovers or sectioned strut housings, you start running out of room for the wheel to move up into the wheel well real fast. Camber plates make it a lot worse, especially on a 280 because the strut isolators are 3" tall vs 2" for 240Z. I cut my fenders and then put the suspension together with no spring and compressed and realized that my tire was hitting metal. Had to cut again much higher to prevent that from happening . In my case I cut the fenderwells so that they were flat from the top of the arch in the well to the outside of the quarter. Basically couldn't have cut any higher and made more room for the tire unless I had removed the whole wheel tub and rebuilt it. When the strut hits the bumpstop, there is about 1/2" space from the top of the tire to the fenderwell. I think the bumpstop is more than 1/2" long but I have super stiff springs so hopefully I won't have any issues. It's a pet peeve of mine to see ZG flares mounted way too low in the rear with really wide tires. Just obvious that nobody took the time to see if there was clearance for the tire, they just held the flare up to the body and marked and cut it there with no thought as to functionality. The other one that really bugs me is the tire and wheel being 1" from the inside curve of the flare, hellaflush style. You know that tire will hit the inside of the flare almost instantly, but still people do it all the time...
  27. 1 point
    It's been a while, but the car was painted. I haven't seen it in almost 5 years, but I'll be picking it up next month. Really looking forward to tearing it back apart and putting some finishing touches on my LM7 swap.
  28. 1 point
    There is a company that makes a reproduction Auto Panel Solutions, I see their stuff on facebook.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks all. I don’t have major cutting to do. My rockers are solid, just repair one dogleg and floors are the structural parts. The other parts are cosmetic sheet metal work and scraping the undercoating.
  30. 1 point
    My build has moved on quite a bit now, you make a list of things that need to be done and then keep finding other stuff to add to the list. I am very pleased with what the trimmer has done for me, all in leather and a decent price as well. I had to paint the floors and fit the sound deadening before it could go for trim, I also did a dry build of the dash and seats etc. Here some pics for those interested.
  31. 1 point
    I’ll add to this post, as it’s me over at CZCC with that for sale post. I have since found the matching 5020F front springs, and I also have two sets of those! All brand new. I’ve lowered the price to $100 per set of 4 (2-5020F and 2-5020R) Mind you the total lack of response to this thread might indicate interest in these springs is pretty low, but who knows. Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca if you’re interested.
  32. 1 point
    There is a curve to the hatch in both directions. Good on you for fixing that thing. Pantera hatch is aerodynamically bad and would really hurt flow to the wing. Only thing they could have done worse would be a roof spoiler.
  33. 1 point
    Made the parts for the battery tray area, need to welded in the last part. also finished the plates that will tie my new framerails to the old ones in the enginebay
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Thanks. I'm aware why the D-shape is there, I just didn't realize some aftermarket shocks came with a matching shaft. My setup from T3 with Koni Yellows has a round shaft. T3 probably assumes everyone will use their camber plates rather than stock mounts. I guess I'll just get to work with the file and round out the mounts.
  36. 1 point
    You could just call Wilwood, Stoptech, or Essex Parts (AP Racing distributor), tell them the weight of your car, how you will be using it, and what size wheels the brakes need to go under. Budget will be a huge consideration too. Of the three Wilwood will definitely be the most affordable. AP and Stoptech components range from somewhat reasonably priced to astronomically expensive. AP Racing parts go all the way up to F1 components...you can imagine what that costs. Anyway, they could recommend compatible front/rear disc and caliper combos suitable for your use and budget. They could also suggest pedal/master cylinder setups...or you could just shop around after you decide on discs/calipers. I really like Tilton pedals and master cylinders. Coleman racing can machine custom brake hats reasonably inexpensively once you know what you need. I personally would go with floating discs in front, not so important in back because the rears generally see far less heat.
  37. 1 point
    Most of the aftermarket brake companies, be it Wilwood, AP Racing, or whatever manufacture calipers intended for front wheel applications, and others for rear wheel applications. The rear oriented calipers will have smaller overall piston area to give you a default "bias" that is in the ballpark for most cars. The bias is fine tuned/corrected with either dual master cylinders and a balance bar, or with an adjustable proportioning valve. Each method has strengths and weaknesses. In general racing/track cars would be best served by a balance bar, and street cars with an adjustable proportioning valve. The relevant data are combined (assuming multiple piston calipers) piston size for each front caliper, combined piston size for each rear caliper, brake disc diameter front/rear, and tire diameter. With this information, companies like Tilton Engineering can make sound recommendations for front/rear master cylinder sizes. None of this is rocket science, but there is a lot of data and arithmetic involved in sizing everything correctly. I agree with the prior post that many brake "upgrades" are actually not always true performance upgrades. People get away with just bolting on huge discs and 4-piston calipers on the front brakes only, because generally such a mod just dramatically increases front brake bias. Front brake bias is "safe" (it won't cause the car to spin), but many of these aftermarket front brake upgrades will actually increase stopping distance from stock. To do it right, brakes need to be a system involving front/rear, master cylinders, and proportioning systems. If this is done correctly, you can dramatically improve on the stock brakes in terms of weight, "feel", stopping distance, and fade resistance.
  38. 1 point
    Eddie M. There are some LSD's available. If you have any questions let me know. Thanks, Chip JDM Powerhouse
  39. 1 point
    Heck ya, axles looking good. Btw, 2018 mustang stick v8 cars are using gt350 axles. Gt350 axles are basically the same right axle, but the left has been increased in diameter and cv size. They will not work for this conversion. So you need v8 axles 2015 to 2017 and 2018 must be v8 automatic axles.
  40. 1 point
    Not sure how much effect you would get from just moving a battery a few inches lower on braking or handling.
  41. 1 point
    Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
  42. 1 point
    There's a seal on the striker rod that dries up or wears, apparently. Very difficult to get to. If you overfill you probably get more seepage there. Not a huge deal except for the annoyance. Part #22. You'd have to tear the transmission down to fix it. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/22
  43. 1 point
    On my newly finished 71' 240z that is running a Datsun Spirit 2.8 stage II, headers, and rebuilt SU's, the car was not easy to start with the more aggressive cam. I had a previous engine in another 240Z which was tripple Minuki's and I used a Nissan gear reduction starter and that made a big difference in starting the car especially in cold weather. I did some searching around online to see what was available and tried the one from Classic Car Performance know for making performance starters for British cars https://www.classiccarperformance.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter which uses 5 roller bearings, and it has made a huge difference in being able to start the car easily in cold weather. From my experience the more noticeable advantages of a quality gear reduction starters are when the car is either running a performance cam or triple carbs. The car starts on the first try which never happened before and with the aggressive cam it a person whom is not familiar with a choke and Z cars would easily flood the engine but now that seems to be a thing of the past.
  44. 1 point
    Hood pins/latches and vents installed:
  45. 1 point
    Wheels for setting up your car 😉 The items pictured are more like hub stands as they don't resemble wheels It goes something like this - jack car up - wheel off's - bolt hub stand's to hub's in place of wheel's - lower onto corner weight scales/set up patch - give it a good shake to settle the suspension - adjust away to your hearts desire, without having to fight your way around the wheel that's normally in your way
  46. 1 point
    Super late update. Got everything out, swapped the steering column over, all the new bushings up front are in. The one motor mount fought me for a while but I got it. The kid helped me install the new TTT TC rods and jacked the crossmember into place for me. She really digs helping with the car for 15-20 minutes at a time. Hahaha. New clutch and lighter flywheel are on, motor is in, harness should be good. Im having issues starting it without starter fluid and it dies after that runs out. Injectors are all spraying, I even tried with a brand new fuel pump fed from a can, still no luck. Gonna pull the rail and put my Pallnet rail on so I have a gauge. Just need to find time after the addition of a second child. I'll get there though. And that's how she's been sitting for a few months now. Won't start on her own, won't keep running without starter fluid. Still have a few things to try and troubleshoot, but I'll get there eventually. I can't wait to get it back on the road.
  47. 1 point
    Don't let him weld anything of yours.
  48. 1 point
    Datsun Restomods is working on a tilt/power column if you can wait. I'm not aware of a lot of steering column swaps. https://datsunrestomods.com/products/coming-soon-electric-power-steering-kit
  49. 1 point
    I am using the roll bar hoop dimensions that 74_5.0L_Z graciously posted and wanted to make sure that it would also work for a 280z as well.
  50. 1 point
    Hi again! The car runs and drives very good…but I’m moving it to another shop for the past details. The tunings will not be deep, but will consist in verifying the electrical system with the addition of new connectors, recovering a corner on the dash, applying the centre console, tuning the front bumpers and correcting the leather parts on the back! The wheels will be recovered into the original charcoal colour! These works will make the car looks better and will make me rest fine…I’m tired of waiting… Let’s go to the works: Interior glass trim. Hood latch Almos tone hour to aplly the mirror… Gearbox insulator applied… New interiors…worked very good!!! Some details… The plate gate arrived and was apllied. I state the fuel rail wasn’t the correct for the 71 generation…so, I applied a correct one! Some more details… Here is the result befere went home! Filling up the tank…so great… At home…near the 510 SSS Hope you liked it…let’s wait 15 days to get it completely done!!! Regards Mário
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