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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  2. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  3. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  4. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  5. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  6. 1 point
    Never thought about it but it but it would work... I love how at the end he says "now you have seen how easy this is to do". That looks like 4 days worth of work for 4 corners.
  7. 1 point
    ^ Jim here was able to help me out, thanks all!
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Nissan says that if you run the tank dry you need to prime the pump. Can't remember where exactly I saw that, either the FSM or the Owners Manual. You might jack the back end of the car up to be sure the pump inlet gets a little help, getting a good fuel supply to start pumping. You can run the pump by itself by disconnecting the starter solenoid wire and turning the key to start. The aftermarket pumps don't seem to have that problem but the stock pump might.
  10. 1 point
    Anything is possible with a drill, angle grinder, and a welder.
  11. 1 point
    1. What year is your Z? 2. Did you check the fuse panel? 3. Typically, the problem you have is caused by the turn signal and/or the light switch. Many "how to" posts on switch repair here and on the internet. 4. Information: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/ Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf
  12. 1 point
    Best to start a new thread for this as not to clutter up his build thread
  13. 1 point
    This is really the end of the thread right here. You either really want the 2JZ, and are willing to pay more for it, and have it take longer, or you don't, and just finish with the Ford swap that you already started. We can't tell you what you want.
  14. 1 point
    Got the last of the backorders in and packaged up! They'll be in the mail tomorrow and should be in your hands by Wednesday Again, my apologies on the delays.
  15. 1 point
    The bottom hose Dayco #C7039 The top hose is made up of two hoses Dayco #D72039 is connected to the engine. Dayco D70704 is connected to the radiator. Bought hoses at Autozone.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks man. I'm just going to deal with the gap and check it everytime I have my car jacked up. I have a bigger problem though. The new bolt holes don't line up with my diff flange. The new DS bolt pattern has slightly more space between the bolt holes then my old one, so I can get 2 bolts in on the same side but I can't get the other 2 bolts in, because the DS holes and diff holes don't line up. So we called the place I bought the driveshaft and they're claiming that it doesn't make sense, and that for a '75 280Z coupe the driveshaft should fit. Also the bolt holes themselves are larger than on the old DS. I can wiggle the bolts around if I slide them in. I don't see why datsun would change the distance between the holes for no reason. Maybe a Z expert can chime in on that. So now I need to find out what year diff I have I guess? Did certain years of S30 differentials have different bolt patterns on the flange? It's possible my diff and driveshaft were switched out at some point in it's life, but I don't know what year it was switched with. Also the new driveshaft is half an inch shorter than my old one, but it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll go take measurements of my old DS bolt pattern to help find out what kind of diff this is. Then I'll edit them in this post. Edit: I measured the distance between the bolts diagnolly from the center of the holes and got 2.75". I also found this pic of differential flanges, mine is exactly like the left one. While I was doing this my dad got a call from the driveshaft shop and they said they found a flange with the same pattern as mine, and are going to custom make me one today to fit my diff flange. So hopefully everything works out and we don't have to do this a second time. Edit2: I just found out that I might have an R200 diff. I found comparison pictures between an R180 and an R200 and the cover on mine looks just like the R200. So that explains why the driveshaft shop had such trouble. Also, I don't think it's an LSD. With the car jacked up if I spin one wheel the other wheel turns the opposite way. Edit3: I'm only updating this still because I think this info will help people that might get in a similar situation. A lot of this seems obvious by now. I found out that from 70-78 S30s all use that differential flange on the left. Except '75 S30s, they use the middle flange. When I ordered my new driveshaft I told them my car was a 1975 280Z manual coupe, and that was that. Never occured to me that my diff might've been swapped. So they shipped me a driveshaft meant for that 75 Z flange. Since my car has an R200 from some other Z/ZX it didn't fit, and here we are now. I'll get my new driveshaft with the proper bolt pattern soon and then everything will be fine. Here's where I found the pic and the info on S30 diff flanges. http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html
  17. 1 point
    Awesome news Ryan, again thanks so much for doing these apparel runs!
  18. 1 point
    Received my order today and as usual, I'm very pleased with the product, and service ... Thank You ~joel
  19. 1 point
    yeah man, that undercarriage is top notch!!! wow what a labour of love!
  20. 1 point
    Yeah, regarding the boxer swap, until someone actually gets it done and running, I'm not counting it. The purple V8 car you're talking about is the same one I was referring to, BTW. It belongs to a guy named Kevin Mackrell. I managed to find the other one I was talking about. The track width and wheel base make it look really wonky. http://jdm-culture.com/adree-hamid-r32-in-disguised-s30-240z/ Also, while looking, I managed to find mention of a third AWD Z, posted on this very forum. This one actually looks really impressive. Fourth post, by OlderThanMe.
  21. 1 point
    Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
  22. 1 point
    I was explaining helicals yesterday on another site and came up with what I think is my most concise and clear explanation to date, so I cleaned it up a bit and figured I'd repost it elsewhere. Helical diffs work like this: two large side gears in the carrier are connected to the axles, and a bunch of worm gears drive off of each side gear and ride on each other in the center. The worm gears connect the two side gears together, so that when one side gear turns at a different speed than the other, all of the worm gears must also turn. When there is no load (no torque) and the unit is not preloaded (some are preloaded from the factory, some aren't), you can jack up the rear end and spin one side with one finger and the other side spins very easily in the opposite direction. There is probably even less resistance than a normal open diff and spider gears. When you put power to it though, the torque drives the side gears outwards into the case, and all the worm gears get driven inwards to the bottom of their machined pockets in the carrier. The force of these gears jammed up in all of their respective slots is what creates the resistance to differentiation. All of the gears also try to walk off of the gear they're riding on, so there is axial and radial friction between every gear and the case. If you try to spin one wheel at a different speed, it must turn all of the gears in the differential while they're loaded. The amount of force produced here can be quantified by how much torque it can hold. This is what is called the Torque Bias Ratio. Really aggressive TBR's are 5:1, most common are ~3:1. This means that a 5:1 TBR can keep putting power to the wheel with less traction until it has 1/5 or 1/3 the traction of the other wheel and the torque applied does not exceed the traction of the inside tire. If you have less traction available or apply too much power so that you get wheel spin, then the gears inside lose some of their friction against the case. As the speed differential between the wheel speed and the car speed increases on the wheel that is unloaded, internal friction in the limited slip decreases and that tire spins more and more freely. If one wheel comes off the ground and there is no preload, all of the torque goes straight to the lifted tire. As soon as traction is restored, the diff resumes the task of limiting slip. This definition that I've given is not typical, and I know it. Usually you see something like "the differential takes the torque at the wheel with less traction and transfers it to the wheel with traction" or "sends traction from the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips". You might see some math applied: "If the inside tire can put down 100 lb/ft of torque, the LSD will send 300 lb/ft to the outside tire." This is really not what is happening at all. It's more accurate to say that the helical LSD can lock the axles together to a certain degree by applying friction equally to both axles to prevent it, and once you go beyond the limits of the friction created by the diff or the traction available at the lesser tire and try to put torque down, you get wheel spin. There is no gear reduction mechanism in the diff, no mechanism to take power from one side and add it to the other. The limited slip acts uniformly on both sides. By way of contrast, traction control systems actually change the speed of one tire vs the other by applying the inside brake really do SEND the power from one side to the other by limiting drive to the spinning tire and applying more torque and power to the side with drive. Helical limited slips do not do this (no limited slip that I know of does). We may truthfully say that the inside tire is putting 100 lbs of torque to the ground and the outside is putting 300 in a helical example, but the gears inside the diff are still applying the same amount of frictional force to both axles to resist differentiation. Limited slips allow wheel speeds to differentiate for corners and still maintain the ability to resist spinning one tire out of control, but they are not "sending power from the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips". LSDs are like sway bars in that respect. They attach to both axles of the car, so whatever effect they have is shared on both sides. The result of their equal effort can be quantified in terms of how much more power can go to the outside tire before the inside starts slipping, but the effect is not obtained by virtue of the diff transferring power to the outside tire, it occurs because the diff resists slipping and the fact that there is more traction at the outside tire. If you have a clutch LSD shimmed really tight, it might have a TBR of 1000:1 or maybe it would even be locked up solid and be infinite like a spool. But that doesn't mean that a diff with an infinite TBR puts infinitely more power to the axle with traction. It means that it drives the axles EXACTLY EQUALLY and if one side has traction it does infinitely more work than the side that has none.
  23. 1 point
    More progress, not much but something. Made a new bracket for the tension arm since the original bracket wouldnt fit my newly made frame rail. I started the downward bend to early and should had started it a little be later. I opted to make a whole new bracket in lieu of hacking up the stock one to make it work. Cut out a good chunk of rust on the fender well area. Made the support/stiffening plate for the frame rail. Not welded on yet, just snugly fitted for pics. Also made the mounting for the sway bar, kind of went over kill. I decided to have the bolt go through the entire frame. only thing left is wondering what I want to do for the tow hook mount...
  24. 1 point
    I carry a 40 cal or 357, no need for a gun rack...LOL
  25. 1 point
    WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while 84-85 are fully mechanical. ALL 86-89 cars have the connector in the engine wiring harness, but it does not do anything on manuals. The Automatic TPS has the secondary set wires on it with the connector, but the manual does not. The automatic TPS can be put on a manual car and it'll function perfectly everytime, you can even plug that connector in...but that connector isnt doing ANYTHING. Source: 1989 300ZX FSM Don't argue with stuff you don't know, and have just observed on your cars. I've made Z31 engine harness', I know where that connector goes, and its for nothing on the manual. If you get a chance to mess with nistune, you'll also notice it shows no throttle position on Z31 ECUs, but it will on Z32s. It shows "IDLESWITCH" as one of the possible faults. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html