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  1. 2 points
    an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
  2. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  3. 2 points
    Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights switch has its own set of wiring so it may be acting as a red herring if you are using that as the reasoning in your train of thought. I suggest taking a breath, people are here to help of their own accord, it may be frustrating to seemingly answer the same question or when someone is caught on a seemingly unrelated point, but realize we need clarity to try and help. It may serve to help their train of thought, and it may seem tedious, but given the free help, maybe try being accommodating? It may serve better to have a post where you clarify exactly what you are looking for that you or others can refer to someone asking a question in the post. I can't answer as I've only looked at the early Z wiring in detail, but it seems odd for the blinker wiring to go through the floor so I can identify with others as to the confusion. I'm finding a note that the part number was used for a fuel pump relay, might be something else to check. I do know the pins are a standard spade connector so you could wire in a modern relay if you can pin out the contacts and make little adapter lengths, I've done that for some older plugs before. Identify power, ground, switch ground, switch power, and output. Then you can use any modern automotive relay.
  6. 2 points
    katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoir shocks so I quit thinking about Z brakes. I ran both the Nismo rear shoe, and the relined Carbotech shoe, I think. We cryo treated rotors and drums. We ran the parking brake so we could adjust the rears during the course of a race. That and having an adjustable prop valve so you can make the rears take their share of the load is critical. If you aren't turning the friction surface of the drums blue, then you ain't there yet. Scour the junk yards and find every Z drum you can find and have them turned and expect to rotate in a new set every weekend. Up front, don't fall into the trap of using a pad that maximizes the pad material, in other words instead of this | | , you want this \ /. The outer radius of the rotor runs hotter because its going faster (linearly) and wears the pad faster. Nothing worse than having to pump the brakes every corner to take up the slop from tapered front pads, maladjusted rear shoes, and expanded rear drums. We drilled holes in the backing plate on the rears for some cooling, but not much else you can do back there. Up front we ran three 3" ducts on each side, one to the hub area of the strut to cool the bearings, one to a custom "can" that blew air on either side of the rotor, and one that blew into the caliper overtop of the pads. That one was tricky to make as there isn't a lot of clearance between the caliper and a 14" wheel that we had to run. I also drilled a series of small holes around the periphery of the pistons just behind where they contact the back of the pads so air could circulate behind the pads from the aforementioned duct over the pads. PM me and I'll send you some pictures.
  7. 2 points
    I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 door, orange. I also own a 1976 280z that currently being built up into another fun toy and R&D test bed for future products. Much of my involvement on 'The Realm' has been sharing in my experimentation (Yamaha R1 carbs on a KA24e and MegaJolt EDIS ignition etc...) and learnings. "..I wonder if he is just cutting flanges off old u-joint axles and welding them on to "CV" axles..." - nope. I manufacture brand new adapters/flanges, accurate up to 4 thousands of an inch on centering/mounting to make them dead smooth. The flange's bolt-hole placement is left to CNC machining for repeatable accuracy. "...Not sure that they're much better than a u-joint axle though. What's the benefit?" - Several benefits: As the U-joints in our axles fail, finding replacements has been difficult, at least for me. Also, with lowered Datsuns, the larger angles within the axle exaggerates a U joint's inability to rotate at a constant speed. These newer CV axles (short for Constant Velocity), can rotate at more consistent speeds with larger angles. The end result is a noticeably smoother ride - even for Datsuns with seemingly fine stock axles. Another reputed benefit is more drivetrain efficiency and a couple percent increase power to the wheels. "I wonder where the came up with the torque limit. Breaking welds? " : A LOT of engineering went into these CVs - down to shear calculations, metals selected for the adapters and how it interfaces with the CV, impacts from tempering, redundancy in fastening etc... Calculations showed that the fastening/welding technique is ~20-30% higher than the stubs at their weakest point. Back to the question, the torque limit was placed because that's the approximate OEM limit that the axle is designed for, and I wanted to limit anyone trying these axles on over the top machines. As previously posted the axles are comparable to the Subaru STI which are quite capable. My guess on the weakest link now lies in either the axle splines or the shoulder/D bolts themselves. " Being that the stub axle is such a weak spot..." - I'm not sure where on the stub you are referring to but I do offer an integrated stub CV where an OEM STI stub is directly fastened onto the CV housing - in 3 different manners (it's NOT coming off!). It's really slick with only 4 bolts to fasten the axle onto a clip-in diff setup. A similar R200 version is in the plans for this spring as well. I hope that answers the questions. My CV axles are designed to fill a niche market and not directly compete with existing products/vendors. There are already several options for owners with massive HP and/or heavy track duty needs. My CVs, and frankly the basis of all my future products, are intended to be an affordable & original solution that offers a level of reliability (read: lack of maintenance) you expect from a street car, be it stock or with a moderate swap/upgrade powerplant.
  8. 2 points
    Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
  9. 2 points
    Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
  10. 2 points
    Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enabled it but set proper settings and filters on it. Send me a PM with your E-mail address and I will send you a touched up Tune. This is just a Baseline . but should be an improvement. I also do Remote Tuning and offer full Tunes built for your particular engine specs.
  13. 2 points
    I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
  14. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  15. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  16. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  17. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  18. 1 point
    Hey guys, after a 6 year hiatus I am returning with yet another Z project. Going full tilt this time, LS, and effing turbo. Found a '75 that has been sitting for 25 years.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    A buddy and I are designing a cnc billet triple intake. It’s based off of the harada. It will feature the ability to add a balance tube and come with needle bearings. Stock will be 45mm tubes. It will have a bridge, but it will mainly be for looks, it will attach to the same balance tube holes. Also throttle arms will be long enough to clear the starter circuit. It will use the harada parts that are available, like the connection rods, springs, Shepard’s hook and insulators. It will be customizable for intake runner lengths, bore etc... I’m pretty excited on how it looks. The basic idea is that a high end customize-able intake is missing in the Datsun triple world. I didn’t like the finish/ quality of the harada and some of the mechanics. So building my own. My buddy won’t mass produce them but for a high end build or someone that wants a specific design this will be great. Plus it’s fun to make and design. We should have the throttle shaft all designed and drawn today.
  21. 1 point
    People with actual eyes can usually see that this thread is over 8 years old.
  22. 1 point
    Back to the beginning. If you look at the wiring diagram, the reverse light circuit is tied to the Accessory bus in the fuse panel. The circuit also feeds the wiper motor. Out of the 20 amp fuse (stock) there's a Blue/Red (LR) that runs through the dash harness -> engine bay harness -> wiper motor. There is a Red (R) spliced into the LR at some point that also (stock) runs through the dash harness to the engine bay harness. Stock, the wiring to the reverse switch on the transmission comes out of the loom about the same spot the wiring to the wiper comes out and runs under the trans tunnel on the right side to the switch on the transmission. A Red/Black (RB) comes out the other side of the switch and back along the same path that the Red went out. Once it's back inside the cabin, the RB connects to the body harness and goes back as power (+12v) to the reverse lights. The lights get their ground from back under the hatch (tied to the sheet metal somewhere IIRC) In your case the red should be connected to that 20 amp fuse output that also powers the wiper motor. The black is NOT a ground (if it's coming from the other side of the reverse switch) - it should connect to the Red/Black that's going back to the reverse lights. (I would not do it that way - as it's confusing to anyone else working on the car. Black in a Datsun should always be a ground. If you can't run it RB, use R - then people will at least know it's probably power) (A switch is merely a break in a wire - it is NOT "one side hot, one side ground". So, in this case the Red/Black is just a continuation of the Red wire. The reverse switch is there so the light only comes on when the transmission is in reverse. The reverse switch breaks the wire apart when not in reverse, and "puts the wire back together" when it is in reverse.) This is a very simple part of the process. I just learned most of the above looking at the wiring diagram and remembering how the wires hook up to my transmission. (OK, I have a little stronger background in Z wiring, I admit...) But, If this is too much, you'll need to get someone else OR - like they stated above - spend a good deal of time in learning. IMO an EZWire kit will not make this process simpler but at least it will be new wire - which is always a plus... You'll still need to understand how all these components are wired - and why. The dash harness (there are actually two separate harnesses strapped together as one assembly) is mildly complex - gauges, lighting, multi-function switches, ignition, fuse panel, flashers, stop lamp, hazard switch (OK, now I'm just being an a-Hole...). How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. This can be done - one step at a time.
  23. 1 point
    My 260Z has lead there as well but mine was in good shape after media blasting so we just went over it with DP epoxy primer. My understanding is that once the lead starts to fail you need to remove it, melt it out, and either replace it with new lead or filler.
  24. 1 point
    Also just a heads up, i won't be able to reply that often so please be patient as I am running this company and a few others and get pulled in various directions. thanks
  25. 1 point
    Just finished welding the adapters together, figured I'd give my review. Turned out to be relatively straight forward and simple. Only extra work required was some grinding of the inner edges so my 280z adapter would seat correctly. Definitely get the welding jig if you don't have access to a mill or lathe.
  26. 1 point
    Here's the latest on the bracket saga. I tried three sets sourced by Summit Racing, and when the third set (made by Grove) was going to hit stuff, I bit the bullet and fabricated (actually, I modified the last set I got). The folks at Summit were super about the returns, but when the third set didn't work, I felt embarrassed. After all, three times! I used 1/4-inch aluminum plate to make the modified parts, and used as many parts as I could of Grove's stuff. The compressor is off now, but with both in place, I measured and measured, and I am now certain--well, almost certain--that these will work. Here are some photos.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    What is now becoming an established annual two day event which attracts lots of S30's, Bathurst tests car and driver like no other circuit eg front end lift at 200 KPH anyone? Anyway enjoy and if you Murricans have a spare November this year, plus the necessary, ship your S30 over and take part.
  29. 1 point
    Post a photograph of the engine compartment. From this we can discern whether the original swap was the "JTR method" or the less advantageous non-setback one. If there's rust in the floorboards, almost certainly there is rust elsewhere, in nontrivial amounts. This may or may not require immediate attention, but it does merit jacking up the car (suitably supporting it!) and a thorough examination. Some rust, while annoying, is only cosmetic. This particular car evidently has a 5-lug rear conversion. Does it also have a solid rear-axle conversion? Such a conversion remains controversial even to this day... but properly done, it has its own appeal. What is the rear-axle ratio? If the transmission is a TH350, it won't have an overdrive gear, which is annoying on the highway. Lack of overdrive is, in my opinion, the main reason for why a "race car" is unpalatable on the street.... something to consider. Otherwise the standard routine is to examine and possibly refresh the engine. Do you have specs on the cam? The heads? The compression ratio? Have you done a compression-test? The standard tuning-approach applies, whether it's a Datsun or a Chevelle... lots of literature on that. BTW congratulations on the purchase! Aesthetically it looks aggressive, without being outright garish. Those fender-flairs nicely split the difference between too-much and not-enough. But I do wonder about the rear axle... the rear wheels aren't particularly wide, yet they protrude considerably outboard. Perhaps the axle is too wide? Could it be narrowed? 4-link or ladder-bar or something else?
  30. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums, I will say this is dangerously close to skirting the rules there. If you would like to sell your product please feel free to make a thread in the vendor forum. I do wonder if it is some exotic material that justifies the price. That may be information you wish to include in your own thread. If you would like there is even a wind tunnel section that I'm sure would benefit from the data backing up the performance.
  31. 1 point
    You want to do the exact opposite to this taller driver who had to get an extension to keep the wheel close enough with the pedals as far away as practical. For mine it was all about getting the seat and driver back for better weight distribution.
  32. 1 point
    I figured that would be the answer. I saw that some of the trucks had the drillless mounts. For now I’ll keep it off on the z thanks again
  33. 1 point
    VCT Plumbing Got the hardlines mostly done for the intake phaser control. Went well just tedious and time consuming. The bottom two lines are advance and retard and the top two lines are returns. The center is the feed. They are 5/16 OD which gives me an ID that closely matches the Honda circuit. It started off easy and then I remembered that an alternator needed to sit in there. That made things a little more interesting. The bulkhead fittings worked out great. I chose to use soft aluminum tubing for the interior lines. I knew routing them was going to be a bitch and I wasn’t wrong. Looks a little rough but it will work. Non of the fittings are compressed yet. I’ll lock everything down during the final assembly and then tweak everything so they have clearance. Feeding through the caps turned out to be a better way to go than through the tower bases. I had to redesign the EDIS coil bracket since the valve was now in the way. It’s not as hidden as it used to be but when the throttle bodies and stacks are on it should be buried pretty well. I’m super glad I went this route with the VCT valve. The look of it is exactly what I wanted and he hard lines fit the whole theme of the build. Lots happening over the next few weeks as I try and finish it up and get it back in the car.
  34. 1 point
    Jhm, thx for the explanation. It had me confused before. The fact that my starter does crank when I apply 12volts directly to the starter where the signal from the ignition switch goes, means that that the ignition solenoid is functioning, right? Tomorrow I gonna get that thing to work, with all this advise. cheers,
  35. 1 point
    What year S30? The early-year cars came with open R180s, and some of the last year cars came with R200s. I don't believe any of the standard differentials were LSD from the factory. Most people putting down serious power in straight-line applications use the R200...it's quite a beefy unit. There are quite a few threads here about the different options available, so search and you should find all the info you could possibly want, and make sure you check out the pinned threads too. Hope this helps.
  36. 1 point
    Cary (tube80z) has been mentioning this idea of the dual ball joint front end off and on for the last couple years. I hadn't really given it too much thought until I autoxed my car and was really lifting the inside rear tire, and Dan (74_5.0L_Z) suggested that the problem might be scrub radius and caster related. I guess the idea is that the outside wheelbase increases significantly enough due to scrub that the car leans over in that direction and the inside rear comes off the ground. Recently this thread popped up talking about swapping front suspensions and it quickly devolved into a pissing match for reasons beyond my comprehension, but it did get me thinking more seriously about the dual ball joint idea. Cary seems to think it's doable with the ball joints in the same plane, and had thought of a modified bumpsteer spacer as a possible way to do it. That got me thinking that it might be easier to just make a square tube knuckle and bumpsteer spacer combo, so that's where I'm at right now. Thinking square tube with simple clevises welded to it for the ball joints, and then taper the front end and have it open and then use shims above and below the tie rod to adjust bumpsteer. I have absolutely no idea how to figure out the spacing on the clevises to minimize scrub and that sort of thing but I'm very interested to see if I can make it work, and to see if it would be as easy as I think it should be.
  37. 1 point
    Better late than never, I suppose? A few points The mock-up wheels are way too big (18s) but they are what I had on hand at the time. The garage is terribly messy. I am an amateur and have no idea what I am doing.
  38. 1 point
    The strut setup on these cars is ok, but there's a reason they aren't competitive anymore. No camber gain in roll and the nightmare front hubs (hello, scrub radius called...) are challenges that can't be solved with this arrangement. The Apex Engineering is in my opinion the kit to get. It lets you lower the car and raise the inner arm pickup point to correct your roll center. I've drilled out my stock sub-frame, and that mod combined with the outboard roll center adjuster blocks make for a wizard handling car. You MIGHT be able to graft in a Miata front subframe, but you'll undoubtedly run into some hilarious issues with this. I say go for it, particularly if you've already exhausted the adjustments in the stock configuration! And post photos if you do.
  39. 1 point
    I searched this topic myself for a long time and finally bit the bullet and went with 225/50 15 Toyo Proxes R888r. I do not like the thread pattern on the Kuhmo all season tires so this was the only option at a decent price. I don't think I will be taking this car to the track any time soon but I really like the look of this setup and I needed to get new tires when I bought the car. Instead of spending money for tires on the original Mag wheels I just got wheels and tires all at once. I know these tires will not last many miles, but I don't plan on daily driving this car. I don't know why it was difficult to get examples of the fitment on 15x8 Rota RKRs being as it's such a popular setup for 240zs (S30s in general). My car was lowered on Tokico 1050 springs (discontinued) I'm not sure what the drop is as it was done by previous owner. I did have to roll the rear fenders a bit as there is a bit of rub when it goes over bumps. Excuse the dirty car. Ed.
  40. 1 point
    News Flash: "TimZ and Chickenman possessed/channeling TonyD on HybridZ..." My "ignore" button worked well... I had no clue what you guys were ranting about until I noticed the "You've chosen to ignore content by NewZed. Options" after the fact... Imagine that, the day TonyD was not the ranting guy. Imagine that!
  41. 1 point
    Hi again! On the last 3 weeks we have finished the Z…it’s so nice to see the car ready to paint…there are some minor details to solve, but not metal work, only disassemble some parts. These weeks were hard…every time we thought the car was done another hole and rust appeared, so we decided to clean the metal until the last bit of paint…I’m talking about the floor…damn…completely rusty….now is new… The engine is in the rebuilding process and I haven’t got pictures…maybe next week… Meanwhile is just waiting for the paintig day. Windows, fuel lines and brake lines will be removed within 15 days! Hope you enjoy the progresso….let’s see the photos! Floor…no words… Final result…so nice!!! Behind the seats… Front floor and the battery frame…the battery flame will be fixed tomorrow…but it seems long time ago someone made a repair on it! Someone open a hole…crazy maniascs…so…let’s cover it… Gone… The mudflaps holes were covered too…they will no longer be used… The back of the car was in bad shape too…minor dents…but needed some repair!!! No holes….yeah!!!! Now some photos… The oil pan is in great shape, just needs to be painted grey…the colour is not bad…. Mr.Vitorino focused… No doubts…903 blue… Warriors relax… Now we will wait 15 days…and deliver it for painting… Hope you still enjoying it!! Regards Mário
  42. 1 point
    technique is way more important than electrode choice in tig welding. Establish your puddle, then start moving the torch. keep arc TIGHT. Feed in filler at appropriate increments, and don't stop the torch for too long otherwise you'll put too much heat into the part. A million billion times more tricky than it sounds.
  43. 1 point
    Lumber arrived last Friday. Now if it would just stop raining long enough for me to do some framing.
  44. 1 point
    I don't post here often, but as owner of FutoFab I thought I would chime in about the FutoFab STi conversion stub axles. FutoFab purchased the WCR stock after Todd Walrich passed. Part of this stock included the Beta Motorsports / John Williams designed stub axles. We also heard about breakage issues on those axles and decided if we were to carry on with STi stub axles, they would be made by a driveline shop from axle forgings, not machined from billet stock. We felt using an axle forging for our stub axles would improve the quality in 2 key areas. 1) The flange being forged onto the shaft allows the grain of the steel to "flow" into the flange rather than be cut as it would be when machined from a billet. 2) The heat treating on our forgings is done to the shaft only. Heat treatment penetrates roughly .20" to .25" into the surface of the metal. The treatment depth leaves the core of the shaft untreated, making it more flexible. While heat treating adds strength, it also makes steel more brittle. Because heat treatment will fully penetrate the thinner flanges, we prefer to use forgings with untreated flanges. Since we have changed to using forged shafts, we have not had a failure reported to us. Dave Patten, Owner
  45. 1 point
    Yeah! After talking to a race shop that gave me the idea, I did some searching and found Ronin did that for miata swaps.
  46. 1 point
    Greetings GTO kit owners, I have a GTO kit that I am restoring and modifying with LS1 and T56 of of 04 GTO. I have re-enforced the chassis and replaced the floor boards. I have started to finish the body (making the vents functional). I have a complete 2004 GTO w/T56 donor. I could use any advice before I start pulling the donor apart. Thanks Willie
  47. 1 point
    RE: "Ramps Safer than Jackstands" As someone who has watched stamped-steel ramps rated at 3X the total weight of the vehicle driven upon them spontaneously collapse... "Not on my life ever again!" I will NEVER use a ramp of stamped-steel ever again, as well as those three-legged jack stands that look like they were made from muffler tubing split a 120 degrees. I have a solid wood set of ramps I use, and an injection moulded plastic set that I use. Once the car is up on the ramps SOMETHING blocks it there, and SOMETHING is under the frame. *** As for pulling the pan...it's all above, nothing insurmountable...usually biggest issue is the Nissan Applied gaskets are like a subatomic bond with the block and pan and splitting them apart can be a chore even with a special Nazi-Era Scraper that you can whang in there with a rawhide mallet to separate the surfaces. I tend to spray up into and onto the inner block surfaces with brake cleaner to prevent oil from rolling down into the gasket area while mounting and sealing. I use the brake cleaner into each of the bolt holes to prevent oil up inside from coming out and making a leak path in the sealant. Finally, I use studs on the reassembly, all sunk in and sealed (to prevent the oil path mentioned above.) The use of studs allows me to make them long enough to accommodate 1/2" 'sandwich plates' similar to that used on later L28's and L28ET's to spread the clamping function of the pan bolts (nuts) without deforming the pan rails. They are made from 1/2"x1/8" or strap steel I get at Home Depot's metal rack. I make the rails straight, put the clamping sandwich strips on there, and use Flanged Nuts to squeeze it all together. There are two studs that are longer than the rest situated diagonally opposite corners...I put the pan with sealant on it up until I can get a flange nut started on one, then the one in the back... This lets the pan sit without touching the flanges for a final inspection and maybe alcohol wipe before pushing it up to sealant contact and finger tightening those two nuts. After that, you can quickly do the rest of the nuts. With a piece of 1/2 square keystock set in your vice you can put your pan over it and beat those concave bolt holes down flat again...and using the above clamping sandwich strips with flanged nuts will keep you from ever having to do it again! I also have a bitchen $300+ breakaway torque screwdriver (that someone else paid for) I can use to tighten the bolts exactly where they need to be... I prefer Loctite 598 as sealant alone, or as gasket dressing. If you have a gasket you really need the sandwich strips and a flat flange. With Loctite 598 you can lay your proper bead for sealing, snug the nuts to get initial compression, let it set up overnight/24 hours to cure and then retorque to proper number the next day to get some compression on the 'gasket' you just made with the 598. Loctite 598 and Permatex Ultra Black are EXACTLY the same substance, BOTH made by Henkel and simply marketed in different markets with different brands. This comes straight from Henkel Technical Support Engineering. We use it on our oil sumps which are immersed in hot oil 24/7/365 and rarely are expected to be opened for inspection before 5 years of continuous running. It is more tolerant of surface debris / contamination than prior RTV's. Our testing indicated between metal blocks, a bead will have at least a 40X espansion rate in close fitting pieces...meaning a 2mm bead will spread to 80mm wide EASILY when compressed. A 2mm bead is ALL you need if you have less than 1mm distortion. By putting a 2mm bead on the pan and then tightening to metal-to-metal, the bead will EASILY compress to cover the entire mounting flange area, even in the warped areas...effectively permanently sealing the gaps. *** Even when I don't replace the bolts with studs... those two diagonal studs and flange nuts are installed it helps hold the pan coming off as well! They're like 1" long....I cap them with a piece of vacuum tubing after install so the exposed threads are not gummed up with road grime. If you get realllllly fancy and have longer studs that stick out at least 1/4" beyond the face of the flange nut...those vinyl vacuum caps that are available in Red, Blue, Yellow, Black make for a bitchen detail all around the pan surface as a nice contrast... You know.... "While you're in there..."
  48. 1 point
    I've been there! I can't say how many times I've flown in to somewhere...opened up the local instruction manual, and started at Square 1... Customers don't want to see that. They want the Factory Guy to come in with a glamorous set of tools and diagnose some bizarre malady. The best was a vibration issue at a company in MO... I was there on the machine during overhaul...and now...three years later it was vibrating. Customer diagnosed it...I was there to reassemble. Long story short...they had sent the electric motor out for overhaul when it shorted phase-to-phase and after re installation their fears of compressor damage seemed justified in a high vibration trip that wouldn't go away. Puzzling to me was if I rotated the compressor by hand it was fine...then, sitting over the coupling pushing down on the 48" Pipe Wrench rotating it it came to me: normally I crawl onto the machine from the high speed side (opposite of what I was) and push down... I thought "I'm rotating this backwards!" I did my scroll check, then asked they get the manual, section 5, page 4 (standard standard, standard!) The motor company, despite marking everything for orientation, had reversed end bells of the motor. The customer did the rotation check, reversed leads, then had a vibration problem that just would NOT go away! They even said to me when I got there "it's strange, we an roll it in reverse and it's fine..." One basic check to the manual (which clearly said: "compressor rotation is clockwise viewed from drive end"!) and they would have never torn into a perfectly good machine. Nor had to pay for a field Balance! I flew across the country, assembled the machine, and in 45 minutes and one start diagnosed reversed end bells (improper rotation)... Later compressors had a big cast-in direction of rotation arrow...hmmmm wonder why? Most of the time it comes down to something very basic, but overlooked or dismissed. The head of maintenance sat there, looking at the book....and said "we probably did all this work for nothing then..." Yep! And balanced a field balanced rotor that made it imbalanced and needed another field balance to get it back where it was before you took it all apart! "D'OH!" Don't get discouraged, just step back...and then comeback with a fresh outlook and check it all again. You are right: a second set of eyes s invaluable when looking at this...it was JeffP and a case of Moosehead before he said "Man, your laptop's comm chip has some really funky signals coming out...let's try mine!" Badaboom! Fixed...for about 20 minutes and then my power circuit went DOA! Second box was fine and that box has been in there since!
  49. 1 point
    I carry a 40 cal or 357, no need for a gun rack...LOL
  50. 1 point
    I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
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