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  1. I want to thank all of you here for giving me inspiration for my build. I have adopted the Hybrid Z name for my build years ago since this site provided a lot of information that I consider priceless. I was able to meet some great people at ZCON, some that know my build and others that just wanted to say hello and compliment me on my build. When I built this car I built it as my version of what a Z should be therefore I know a lot of people were not going to like it since it was my vision and nothing else. Taking my car to ZCON for the 1st time and walking out of there
    3 points
  2. Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back.
    2 points
  3. For this build I decided to jump in with both feet and learn how to build fiberglass. I found out early on that I would need to build up a custom air dam so I decided to build out a door as a trial to learn the process. I have done plenty of small FG projects but never something large that involves building a mold tool. You can see the process in the pictures. First sanding and waxing the door (plug) and applying mold release. Then a layer of gelcoat and then laying down multiple layers of heavy matt until the mold has enough strength and rigidity not to break when pulling the
    2 points
  4. thanks! Gosh I’m not sure how to adjust the res of the photo’s uploaded here. I can try e-mailing them to myself and uploaded from a computer instead of from my phone. The pictures themselves are huge files on the iPhone. Here is a vid I posted on IG today. Got my rear suspension in thanks to the helpful folks here at HybridZ @JMortensen, @jhm, @Ben280 And more IMG_5985.MP4
    2 points
  5. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
    2 points
  6. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  7. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  8. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  9. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  10. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  11. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pic
    2 points
  12. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  13. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several
    2 points
  14. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights swit
    2 points
  15. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoi
    2 points
  16. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  17. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 do
    2 points
  18. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  19. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better
    2 points
  20. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  21. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enable
    2 points
  22. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  23. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tow
    2 points
  24. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  25. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have s
    2 points
  26. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  27. I have been driving this thing longer and longer distances, trying to correct all the bugs and other things that I didn't like. Some of the issues: After 50 or 60 miles, it would shred the serpentine belt. I found that the tensioner was approximately .12" out of alignment with the other pulleys. This was strange since the tensioner is a GM LS3 part, but I shimmed it a bit and solved the shredding problem. Then it started throwing the belt. I switched to a belt a couple of sizes smaller (shorter) and that problem seems solved. I had minor leakage around t
    1 point
  28. There's an article about the KN20 head on Road and Track, nice to see this thing get some recognition. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a37360407/datsunworks-kn20-head-brings-dohc-to-the-240z/
    1 point
  29. First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech re
    1 point
  30. Sorry it took me so long to get back, but thanks for the link.
    1 point
  31. I'll take a moment to reply to the tone of this comment. On HybridZ we (admins) are not suppressing feedback about vendors. What we are doing is trying to make sure a thread stays on topic so that future users will be able to use search and find good quality content that is helpful and relevant to their search. Ideally the original thread should have stayed on topic and a new thread started about vendor feedback. A link could be left in the technical thread and both discussions could happen and be more likely to be found be search in the future. Hope that helps, Cary
    1 point
  32. I think this is about the time I sold the grey "parts" car. It was running so nicely that I couldn't bear to strip it for the interior. I did screw around with a funky idea for a gated shifter on the Z. When I was younger, I used to play this arcade game at GameWorks that was a Ferrarri challenge game and it had a gated shifter and it was so cool, I thought I could get it to work on the Z. Turns out the S130 gearbox does not have enough shaft movement at any "reasonable" height for it to have distinct gates. This 3rd prototype did work, but only until I bolted it rigidly to the tu
    1 point
  33. Hello, im adding back to this thread as i was tagged by a few people in it so i have copied my responce from another thread. Hello everyone Intro Its Ohm from Apex. A few guys linked me to this forum to chime in. First off, ill like to publicly appologize to ervyone who has encoutered frustation with axles and components from us. Those who have ordered the first few kits when we first released were impacted with long wait times, and missing hardware. When i first launched the product mid last year I didn't realize the demand it would cause (also from the He
    1 point
  34. I'm pretty sure you don't want to use epoxy over flash rust. I mean, I've never tried it, but I wager it's a bad idea...
    1 point
  35. Catching up on everyone's kits as fast as I can, here's what the complete cradle looks like with the optional crossmember. Snapped the picture before we bolted it back into Kyle's v12 datsun project.
    1 point
  36. battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.
    1 point
  37. Thought I would drop a few pictures and an update here before starting a build thread and informational text/videos for others to reference. I have the engine ready for a clean up, inspected the cylinders which were pristine, and turned it by hand. Got all of the pieces together to send to ZFever for the wiring harness service. I’ll be posting about the adventure in finding the wiring parts soon.
    1 point
  38. Personally I have stopped using weldthru primer, useless. Stitch weld, clean everything up well, 2k epoxy prime, continuous bead of seam sealer just the way OEM does then paint and undercoat. Good for another 40yrs.
    1 point
  39. Well, I started down the path. We'll call it progress. Initial rough up and flame treat. The backing pieces were secured with plastic weld epoxy initially and then gone over with alternating layers of the g/flex 655 and West 105/207 and glass with sanding in between. If I had to do it over I would have just made some 90 degree brackets with thin metal and epoxied those on added rigidity. And what it looked like before the finish cuts for the gauges. Between all the layers, the back plates are probably between 1/8" -1/4" thick. Plenty sturdy enough for the gauges.
    1 point
  40. Thanks for the replies. This just happens on the left side. The right side seems to have no wear whatsoever, and the spring and strut tube turn together smoothly. I'll double check if they came with bearings in the hats. I know that the gold blocks in the T3 camber plates have bearings built in. So in short, I need those bearing top hats in addition to the bearings already in the camber tops? The coilovers came pre-assembled from T3 before the install. I'll have to check if they had the hats with bearings, if not I'll definitely be getting a set.
    1 point
  41. Thanks! A 240 tank would work fine too because I'm 85% sure I'm going to put a surge tank in anyway so having the baffles or larger flow may not be as necessary. It has been a challenge but we must soldier on. I'm open to options so I'll check them out. I did not. I think people with carbed cars like them because they come baffled from the factory so it's easier to convert to EFI.
    1 point
  42. So I found a true Nissan TPS at the JY and it is so much more accurate ! Don’t even know what model it came off of, but it works. Didn’t need to preload it or anything
    1 point
  43. Not much to report. It’s been a rough year in far NorCal. Record fires last summer, and record snow this winter. Lost tress and fencing around the property and had to shut down the office a few days without power anywhere. Hoping and praying for an un-eventful weather pattern for spring and summer with plenty of opportunity to run the Z.
    1 point
  44. Excellent on getting the turn signals working! Now on to your headlights. Here is a basic troubleshoots guide I put together for someone else, I believe you have done much of this but take a moment to review it to see if anything in it helps. Here’s a sorta step by step process for checking. 1) Start by checking the Engine bay main fusible links connections. The one closest to the fender (outer) and the front (away from the firewall) is the one that provides power to the headlight switch. These often get tarnished or corroded at the Blade connectors. Once these are cleaned and you’ve
    1 point
  45. Finished fabricating the mount for my Woodward steering rack. The new rack is significantly quicker than stock, with a 2.36 ratio, and also simply serves as a replacement as my stock rack was pretty tired and loose. I was unable to find most of the parts to rebuild it, so I figured this was another area where going aftermarket was a good long term strategy. The crossmember is the one from Apex Engineered, and all I did was cut off the stock rack mounts it comes with and make my own for the Woodward rack. The crossmember has some useful features, like multiple control arm pivot p
    1 point
  46. I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.
    1 point
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