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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights switch has its own set of wiring so it may be acting as a red herring if you are using that as the reasoning in your train of thought. I suggest taking a breath, people are here to help of their own accord, it may be frustrating to seemingly answer the same question or when someone is caught on a seemingly unrelated point, but realize we need clarity to try and help. It may serve to help their train of thought, and it may seem tedious, but given the free help, maybe try being accommodating? It may serve better to have a post where you clarify exactly what you are looking for that you or others can refer to someone asking a question in the post. I can't answer as I've only looked at the early Z wiring in detail, but it seems odd for the blinker wiring to go through the floor so I can identify with others as to the confusion. I'm finding a note that the part number was used for a fuel pump relay, might be something else to check. I do know the pins are a standard spade connector so you could wire in a modern relay if you can pin out the contacts and make little adapter lengths, I've done that for some older plugs before. Identify power, ground, switch ground, switch power, and output. Then you can use any modern automotive relay.
  4. 2 points
    katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoir shocks so I quit thinking about Z brakes. I ran both the Nismo rear shoe, and the relined Carbotech shoe, I think. We cryo treated rotors and drums. We ran the parking brake so we could adjust the rears during the course of a race. That and having an adjustable prop valve so you can make the rears take their share of the load is critical. If you aren't turning the friction surface of the drums blue, then you ain't there yet. Scour the junk yards and find every Z drum you can find and have them turned and expect to rotate in a new set every weekend. Up front, don't fall into the trap of using a pad that maximizes the pad material, in other words instead of this | | , you want this \ /. The outer radius of the rotor runs hotter because its going faster (linearly) and wears the pad faster. Nothing worse than having to pump the brakes every corner to take up the slop from tapered front pads, maladjusted rear shoes, and expanded rear drums. We drilled holes in the backing plate on the rears for some cooling, but not much else you can do back there. Up front we ran three 3" ducts on each side, one to the hub area of the strut to cool the bearings, one to a custom "can" that blew air on either side of the rotor, and one that blew into the caliper overtop of the pads. That one was tricky to make as there isn't a lot of clearance between the caliper and a 14" wheel that we had to run. I also drilled a series of small holes around the periphery of the pistons just behind where they contact the back of the pads so air could circulate behind the pads from the aforementioned duct over the pads. PM me and I'll send you some pictures.
  5. 2 points
    I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 door, orange. I also own a 1976 280z that currently being built up into another fun toy and R&D test bed for future products. Much of my involvement on 'The Realm' has been sharing in my experimentation (Yamaha R1 carbs on a KA24e and MegaJolt EDIS ignition etc...) and learnings. "..I wonder if he is just cutting flanges off old u-joint axles and welding them on to "CV" axles..." - nope. I manufacture brand new adapters/flanges, accurate up to 4 thousands of an inch on centering/mounting to make them dead smooth. The flange's bolt-hole placement is left to CNC machining for repeatable accuracy. "...Not sure that they're much better than a u-joint axle though. What's the benefit?" - Several benefits: As the U-joints in our axles fail, finding replacements has been difficult, at least for me. Also, with lowered Datsuns, the larger angles within the axle exaggerates a U joint's inability to rotate at a constant speed. These newer CV axles (short for Constant Velocity), can rotate at more consistent speeds with larger angles. The end result is a noticeably smoother ride - even for Datsuns with seemingly fine stock axles. Another reputed benefit is more drivetrain efficiency and a couple percent increase power to the wheels. "I wonder where the came up with the torque limit. Breaking welds? " : A LOT of engineering went into these CVs - down to shear calculations, metals selected for the adapters and how it interfaces with the CV, impacts from tempering, redundancy in fastening etc... Calculations showed that the fastening/welding technique is ~20-30% higher than the stubs at their weakest point. Back to the question, the torque limit was placed because that's the approximate OEM limit that the axle is designed for, and I wanted to limit anyone trying these axles on over the top machines. As previously posted the axles are comparable to the Subaru STI which are quite capable. My guess on the weakest link now lies in either the axle splines or the shoulder/D bolts themselves. " Being that the stub axle is such a weak spot..." - I'm not sure where on the stub you are referring to but I do offer an integrated stub CV where an OEM STI stub is directly fastened onto the CV housing - in 3 different manners (it's NOT coming off!). It's really slick with only 4 bolts to fasten the axle onto a clip-in diff setup. A similar R200 version is in the plans for this spring as well. I hope that answers the questions. My CV axles are designed to fill a niche market and not directly compete with existing products/vendors. There are already several options for owners with massive HP and/or heavy track duty needs. My CVs, and frankly the basis of all my future products, are intended to be an affordable & original solution that offers a level of reliability (read: lack of maintenance) you expect from a street car, be it stock or with a moderate swap/upgrade powerplant.
  6. 2 points
    Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
  7. 2 points
    Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost
  8. 2 points
    Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enabled it but set proper settings and filters on it. Send me a PM with your E-mail address and I will send you a touched up Tune. This is just a Baseline . but should be an improvement. I also do Remote Tuning and offer full Tunes built for your particular engine specs.
  11. 2 points
    I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
  12. 2 points
    Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tower bolts. Next stop vacuum resin impregnation.
  13. 2 points
    Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
  14. 2 points
    With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have since admitted that they have NEVER had this stub axle on 240Z and admitted that there stub axle was previously copied off of an unknown Datsun stub axle they were told was an S30. I have supplied them all of the measurements using my mics and calipers for the risers so the bearing would fit per spec. Unfortunately, the first riser was not machined to measurements I provided so they did them a second time, this time per my measurements and they are perfect. Great, however the billet machined shoulder then cam into contact with the housing and again would not spin. Soooooo I sent them a stock 240Z OEM stub axle along with their axles with the understanding that DSS would machine into the billet stub axle the proper recess and width allowing the stub axle to fit as OEM with the stock stamped dust cap. DSS sent the axles back to me with shoulder machined down but without the necessary recess. I called them concerned they still would not fit however, per their instructions, bolted them back up as they were “within .005 tolerance of OEM”. I bolted them back up and they continue to press against the housing and will not spin. I called DSS with the bad news and they said “sorry, we didn’t think the recess was that important”. My response was “why didn’t you just machine the axle to match the OEM one I sent”? There Response- “Im not sure i need to talk to the machine shop”. As of this afternoon, DSS has requested I send it all back one more time and they will make it right. I’m going to give them that opportunity again as I am to far into this to just turn back. So, after month of emails, pictures, and sourcing hardware to fit (since the supplied hardware hits the differential on the adapter side of this conversion) I am again hoping that DSS machines these stub axles to OEM spec. Keep in mind, this is advertised as a “bolt in no modification kit”. Im really not offended that I’m not making sense to you. I’m offended and ticked off that I was sold a product that has never actually been bolted on to a 240Z and that I have been patiently (admittedly sometimes not so) trying to help them produce a useable product from the other side of the U.S with phone calls emails and pictures. The final straw is sending them an OEM axle with the instructions “make a copy of this” and it still came back machined wrong. Every point you have made regarding bearings and risers and clearance I agree with fully and in fact I communicated to them to fix those issues as they arose. It’s been a long process. I’m sorry I can’t satisfy your deepest need for every piece of communication and I honestly can’t tell you why they keep getting it wrong. Funny thing is, they can’t explain it either, but they sure as heck are not blaming me. Lee thanked me for my patience with all of DSS mistakes. Getting into a war of words is not my bag. I’m bummed out this crap is clogging up the forum. I apologize if I offended you. I’m really just a hard working guy that loves Z’s and gearhead culture in general. I’ve been building and racing for most of my 50 years of life (first kart and motorcycle age 5) and building cars in my garage is my therapy..... supposed to be fun. Given all my frustration with this purchase, i just needed a place to vent and I really want others to avoid the same. So hearing that I’m a whining complainer that doesn’t know what the hell he is saying and is incompetent to turn a wrench hits where it hurts to be perfectly honest. Agree to disagree is cool with me, time to let this squabble go. With respect, Jim
  15. 2 points
    Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
  16. 2 points
    Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several HybridZ shirts in your closet! Looking forward to hearing your ideas on what you'd like to see along with the shirts. Hats, beanies, keychains, stickers, etc all come to mind.
  17. 1 point
    Welcome Very interesting. Mark's build is probably along the same lines or the project ardvark build. The reason I think people restore the rusty frames are to have the all important VIN number which allows registration and insurance. Kit cars without a VIN of sorts can be difficult to get certified for insurance or road use. If it is a track only toy then the requirements are much less, granted I think some places still want VINs for insurance purposes even for race cars. Would be interesting, 350z's are pretty affordable, and if you could find a way to use the sub frames and such and the stock suspension pickup points the list of benefits would be pretty neat. The problem then would be you are basically building a lighter 350z with a body kit. Mark has a very modified power plant and suspension setup, and the project aardvark has similarly extensive modification, but for drift usage. I'm not sure how the car would be running 350z geometry in a shorter wheel base with a different balance and different weight. Will be interested in what you come up with!
  18. 1 point
    Here's the latest on the bracket saga. I tried three sets sourced by Summit Racing, and when the third set (made by Grove) was going to hit stuff, I bit the bullet and fabricated (actually, I modified the last set I got). The folks at Summit were super about the returns, but when the third set didn't work, I felt embarrassed. After all, three times! I used 1/4-inch aluminum plate to make the modified parts, and used as many parts as I could of Grove's stuff. The compressor is off now, but with both in place, I measured and measured, and I am now certain--well, almost certain--that these will work. Here are some photos.
  19. 1 point
    thanks D9inger!!! that is one bueatiful engine.
  20. 1 point
    On my '71, I cut a slight arch out of the console where the shift lever hit. When the leather/vinyl shift lever boot is in place, the cutout is not seen. Dennis
  21. 1 point
    Ok, just took the 77/280 off the rotisserie so had a chance to weigh it, this is just the shell, all paint was removed then 2 coats of epoxy primer were applied and 2 coats of undercoat, the only thing left on the car is the vinyl headliner and the 2 rear wheel arch vinyls. Now I'm not 100% on this method but I couldn't think of any other way to do it with what I had on hand. With the car level the rear measurement was taken with the car hanging from the rotisserie bar that bolts on where the tie down hooks usually are, then jacks were placed under the rear rotisserie bar and the front was weighed hanging from the front rotisserie bar that is bolted to where the bumper shocks attach just in front of the radiator support. I checked the accuracy of the crane scale by lifting my small anvil which I know is 118 lbs and it was bang on, I have to apologize, I forgot to take a pic of the rear measurement but it weighed 289 lb, front was 246 lbs 289lbs 246lbs 535lbs minus the 6lbs of the rotisserie bars, is 529 lbs Someone with better geometry skills than me will have to verify if the method I used is valid.
  22. 1 point
    So I'm happy with the design, unfortunately this part of my project is on the back burner for the moment. Focusing on getting my engine back in and running. But I'm super happy with preliminary testing. The plan for now is going to be to print them in ABS, finish them with acetone smooth and regular sanding, then mount them up.
  23. 1 point
    This is our second Z. We had an early 260Z which we sold in Sept. It was an numbers matching original L26 and 4 speed
  24. 1 point
    Procedure is in the FSM Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
  25. 1 point
    Just went through the (many) pages of your build, looks great! Thanks for the insight.
  26. 1 point
    Probably the "reaction disc" in the booster. A common enough problem that it has an FAQ entry. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/
  27. 1 point
    You're talking about an early S30 - 1970-1976, right? Not a '77-'78? The rotating mechanism in the earlies can get sticky over the years and the grease turns solid. A temporary fix is to lube the rotating mechanism on the outside of the door with some spray lube. Overdo it - turn by hand and release until it rotates smoothly and easily. The real fix is to take apart the door, remove the entire mechanism to completely clean and re-lube it before re-installing...
  28. 1 point
    I think you deserve your own thread, it has deviated a bit from the original poster and all. Let me know if you want assistance in copying posts and moving them over. For the record well done. Testing and looking for faults BEFORE putting it out there while gathering feedback by public posting. At a good price point I'm sure you will have people very interested.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    It was carb related, I still don't know what happened but the Holley was flooding the left bank of the dual plane intake, flooding 3/5/2/8 (by memory) which are fed by the left side of the intake. I stole the Edlebrock 1407 off my '62 Galaxie and she fired right up and ran great. I've been through the Holley 4 times and can't figure out what is up, warped metering block, something crazy, I replaced every part to no effect. Might get one of these if I can't find what's up with Holley https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs I think the spark issue was just the plugs starting to foul. I always assumed the timing light would fire when on a wire even if the plug wasn't sparking, someone set me straight on that. All ignition efforts were unrelated but we have a new cap and rotor. The Holley is messed up that's for sure. The old girl wants to rip it up with the Edlebrock on there, although I suspect it's too much for this motor being a 700cfm carb but it'll get the groceries home anyway until we can either sort the holley or find a replacement.
  31. 1 point
    I thought I would give it a full month to let the grease soak in, the red grease is Redline assembly lube, the dark grease is from wiping my finger around the ball joint of my DD. The fabric came out much better than I thought it would, there is still a light stain from the dark grease and the Redline is almost certainly just the dye in the lube. If these were cleaned off soon after it happened I'm sure you would see no traces. This was done with clean white T shirt cotton and Brakekleen, keep rubbing until the cotton comes away clean.
  32. 1 point
    Also for what it's worth, you'd be amazed how "smooth" a well performing suspension can be. Stiff might feel sporty, but remember that the goal is to maintain contact over the road surface, not skip over it. Also don't forget that spring rates are acting as a force between two points. Required spring rate to reach max travel target is subject to weight of wheel package as well as chassis weight. Then there's also suspension geometey which is a huge reason some chassis run wildly different rates. A 400# spring on a 240sx might feel soft but absolutely brutal on a s30.
  33. 1 point
    Well, I did want to adjust the fuel and timing maps a bit to get rid of a few drive-ability issues since I'm not running a stock block. Also wanted to pull some timing before turning the boost up again. I also have an 84T ECU I've been scavenging components from it, I'll probably dump the ROM at some point as well.
  34. 1 point
    Well, I suppose I should probably update this as it's been awhile. Nothing too huge going on though, just some cosmetic fine tuning in the engine bay. - Replaced all the hardware with fresh yellow zinc plated - New plated water pump pulley, and block off plates. - Made a throttle cable bracket for the Mikunis and eliminated the j-arm that went to the firewall bracket. - Made a new heatshield for the carbs. Bit of a frankenstein's monster, but it seems to work. 2 sheet of aluminium, some Nimbus GII (waffle) between them, and reflective gold tape in the underside. It now mounts onto the front of the carbs via a custom bracket. Pain in the A to remove, but less visually intrusive and it made room for the throttle cable bracket. - Painted the strut bracing brackets matte black. - Removed blue anodising from some AN fittings. - New Magnecor KV85 ignition leads. It was fun buying the universal kit and being able to route them however I wanted. - Red wrinkle powder coated the valve cover. Reckon that's about it for the under the hood now. Very happy with how everything looks! Threw in a few shots of the car too, just for fun ,:)
  35. 1 point
    Well, I have been regularly working on the car since my last post....just haven't posted in a while because it feels like I am spinning my wheels and not getting much done. I managed to finish the strut tower bars and sway bar mount reinforcements, and completed the modifications to the firewall to mount the Tilton master cylinders: Finished the structural modifications to the rear of the car for the fuel cell cage to drop in. Just have to re-skin the framework with sheet metal: And, spent some time welding up the assorted cutouts and holes from the bumpers, OEM exhaust, marker lights, antennas, and other items I won't be using. That's pretty much it. Feels like a lot of time invested over the past month or so without much progress. Thanks for looking.
  36. 1 point
    News Flash: "TimZ and Chickenman possessed/channeling TonyD on HybridZ..." My "ignore" button worked well... I had no clue what you guys were ranting about until I noticed the "You've chosen to ignore content by NewZed. Options" after the fact... Imagine that, the day TonyD was not the ranting guy. Imagine that!
  37. 1 point
    Hi again! On the last 3 weeks we have finished the Z…it’s so nice to see the car ready to paint…there are some minor details to solve, but not metal work, only disassemble some parts. These weeks were hard…every time we thought the car was done another hole and rust appeared, so we decided to clean the metal until the last bit of paint…I’m talking about the floor…damn…completely rusty….now is new… The engine is in the rebuilding process and I haven’t got pictures…maybe next week… Meanwhile is just waiting for the paintig day. Windows, fuel lines and brake lines will be removed within 15 days! Hope you enjoy the progresso….let’s see the photos! Floor…no words… Final result…so nice!!! Behind the seats… Front floor and the battery frame…the battery flame will be fixed tomorrow…but it seems long time ago someone made a repair on it! Someone open a hole…crazy maniascs…so…let’s cover it… Gone… The mudflaps holes were covered too…they will no longer be used… The back of the car was in bad shape too…minor dents…but needed some repair!!! No holes….yeah!!!! Now some photos… The oil pan is in great shape, just needs to be painted grey…the colour is not bad…. Mr.Vitorino focused… No doubts…903 blue… Warriors relax… Now we will wait 15 days…and deliver it for painting… Hope you still enjoying it!! Regards Mário
  38. 1 point
    Your air intake is already a cold air intake if you're running the stock one. If you want more induction noise and maybe less restriction then I guess you could replace the original air box with a cone filter, but realistically the change will be minimal since the stock position is already in front of the radiator in the coldest place you could put it.
  39. 1 point
    True, my last post was stabbing towards the "reality factor" not the "how much am I giving up factor". Yes, E85 isn't listed, and not ALL fields can be calculated by mixing numbers, as many things have dynamic effects on the fuels. But some things like the latent heat of vaporization scale very linear in the blend. The evidence of this can be seen in how well certain aspects of flex-fuel tuning work all the way from E10 to E85 and anywhere in between with simple table extrapolation. While we can get stuck in the details of science, real-world tuning application says that most things blend linearly just fine. Well, as discussion basic bowl cleanup, mild unshrouding, and intake port centerline lifting will all be done. I'd be surprised if I'm not flowing over 190cfm on the intake side. But speaking of just dividing numbers, you also didn't note the difference between the number of intake runners when comparing here. But anyway, the main compounder of heat in force induction is PSI, and the restriction of the air pump is directly related. I think we've both proven we understand that 100psi of boost might make 100 hp on some motors, and other motors might make 1,000hp with just 10psi. It's all about flow. That said, The G25 turbos should match stock-to-hot street L28 builds nicely, though I think it's a bit low on flow potential on the turbine side for a real hot L28 trying to chase world records. The compressor on the G25 I think is slightly biased towards higher PSI than I think most would really want to run on a L28 unless you're going to run low compression. This is also evident in the recommended displacement range Garrett advertises of 1.4-3.0 litres. An L28 is knocking on the door of that, but would likely be just fine as it's a mild flowing head. This is a turbo that WANTS to live around 2.5 pressure ratio and will work up to 3.5 in extreme cases. In my use case I'd be living between 2 and 2.5 pressure ratio, and where I land on the efficiency would depend on how well the head is flowing, which would also determine achieved power. Good point, though they're dynoing over 2khp now , so there is that. All true, and I agree and knew all this ahead of time. My point of including it in the discussion from the get-go is that they weren't running an intercooler, and were still running sub 7 second 1/4 miles and added an intercooler NOT because of heat management issues, but heat CONSISTENCY issues" Their goal with the new build was all about keeping times consistent. Carburettors suffer from icing for a few reasons or might be more accurate to say that they have a few things working against them that leads to icing. And it should be noted that icing is an issue in LOW power setups, not just HIGH-performance application. First off, is that in order for carburettors to work properly they need a venturi, and the associated pressure drop from the venturi effect is actually the most fact proven reason for carb icing, and why low latent heat of vaporization gasoline can still have carb icing in 100 degree weather. Now, when you combine the venturi effect with poor atomization you end up with a very localized heat transfer as the fuel makes it's lazy path to vapor. Likely a fair statement. Though most of the guys I've seen running without an intercooler with E85 and with fuel injection are still the V8 crowd. I think this is likely the fact that they run WIDE on compressor maps, with high flow and low-pressure ratio. These guys are making peak power around 6,000 in many cases, and have no issue spooling a large turbo by 2k rpm and don't mind turbo lag because of the off boost power available. There's no reason they couldn't run a setup with a higher pressure ratio, but the that starts to be a pretty serious street engine that few actually shoot for or attain. Also, a lot of the real world examples I've talked to of guys making 1,000+hp on methanol with blown small blocks and 12:1 compression aren't drag motors, they're in BOATS. And not drag boats. These are engines built to happily run cracked open producing 75% of its available power for an hour or more. I've never bothered to ask them how much they spend on fuel... But my point is that the engine builders in this market segment do this regularly and it's no big deal. They're running high compression, and no intercooler. And it's fine because of the relatively low pressure ratio. The fact they're running a carburetor should only be hurting them, as evidence that nearly all carb to efi conversions allow for more aggressive timing, which can only be attributed to fuel distribution being more even, along with in chamber charge temps being lower. Yeah, I was looking at the HX35... back when I started this thread. How many years ago was that? I was also thinking I'd be doing all this on the cheap. Last year I spend 2k on an OEM Subaru turbo for my outback. The idea of spending that kind of money on a fancy aftermarket turbo isn't a huge deal in my mind anymore. I'm also aware that I'm going to be in a fairly small group in the Z community running a setup like this. IMO, that guys issues were likely 100% tune related. Guy even says he suspects his head gasket blew from timing. I think a better example is Perrin's article on the STI engine: https://www.perrin.com/blog/post/your-sti-doesnt-need-an-intercooler-right Personally, think their biggest issue was that they were still running gasoline in the port. It'd have been a different story with E85. I say that because I've seen an STI go from 375whp range and be VERY timing restricted (as in, they go from being down 30hp to knocking within a 1 degree spread) to being 450whp and nearly not caring about timing on E85. Was it intercooled? Yes. Was it low compression? Yes. But the timing map showed that for that power level, that 2.5 liter engine would have done just fine adjusting those variables, as it had timing to spare. This is something I've considered since I'll be injecting e85 far back near the plenum. A small thermistor style sensor would be pretty easy to poke through a small hole and seal up with minimal flow restriction. Also, knock sensor would be a very crude way to measure this. The real facny way is to install in cylinder pressure sensors, but that's beyond most of our budgets. Yeah, I'm not sure it really does in the grand scheme of things. If all the fuel vaporizes, it has the same net effect. The struggle is that some engines have a hard time vaporizing all the fuel in certain load/rpm regions with carburettors. Why do you think there's always a mid range torque increase with EFI swaps on V8's? Usually a drop in peak HP is due to airflow restrictions, but that huge mid range change can't all be attributed to flow.... Now, let's look at some other maths since we're interested in known things we can actually look at and consider. For example, for any given system we can calculate INLET AIR TEMP -> Compressor Efficiency -> PSI -> Outlet Air Temp Assuming : 100 degree inlet air temp (either higher underhood temp or hot day ram air) 75% compressor efficiency (which I admit is high, but the G25 compressors reach 79 peak...) targeting 20psi boost at sea level pressure Our turbo outlet temps will be a scorching 309 degrees. Now, an intercooler that's able to achieve a crappy 50% efficiency would drop us all the way down to 203 degrees, which is "managable" and I've seen people tune around IAT temps in that range pretty often. So the question becomes "how much does E85 drop temps"? This might be hard to answer definitively with data sheets on a paper, but some of these guys seem to have foumulas that match their real world experience: http://www.modularfords.com/threads/194918-What-Is-The-In-Cylinder-IAT-Drop-With-e85 Specifically post number 11 You can see they're just doing latent heat of vaporization by weigh compared to AFR. Though maybe simple it seems to be pretty effective and doesn't try to get into "real world modifier math modifiers" to compensate for lack of initial math function viability. Now, the one thing I'd point out, is that using a lambda of 1.25 might be "ball park" for most people, but that's a bit on the lean side of your window to work with. The 1.25 figure is relating to the lambda equivalency ratio that you'd see on a chart like this: Lean max torque for E85 lands at bout 1.15 while rich max torque lands all the way up at 1.40. That's a BIG range for "max torque" let alone "will burn without issue". I've seen E85 lambda readings down to .55 without ill effect on spark. If we plug that kind of insane AFR into the calculation: 770/(9.8/1.8) = 141 (Celsius) * 1.8 = 254 (Fahrenheit) That's 250+ degrees of temp drop capability. Now, some of that will "bleed" into intake and head temp cooling, since we're not using direction injection (would would still have some loss to head temp, but a lot less overall loss since there's no time spent in the intake and no pooling at the valve). All told, that's a massive amount of cooling capacity. But even if we look at this in the more realistic realm of .7 lambda we get this: 770/(9.8/1.4) = 110 (Celsius) * 1.8 = 198 (Fahrenheit) We're still looking at enough cooling to match a crappy small intercooler, or even best it. The obvious question though is: "If you're only going to drop the temp AS MUCH AS an intercooler, why do you think you can still run high compression if the net in chamber temp is the same?" Well, the answer to that is more to do with the way E85 burns than it does temperature. In my experience, E85 burns in a much more controlled fashion and much less explosive than gasoline. This allows you to approach minimum required timing and test max available timing for peak power in much safer and controlled way. Now, if you're stupid it'll still blow head gaskets at will since running too much timing for a given condition can still create insane pressure spikes, but if you're running on a steady state dyno doing timing traces you'll see the power drop off with timing in a much broader range before detonation becomes the limiting timing factor. Overall, I expect to leave power on the table. I don't expect to win any dyno awards here. What I do expect, is to have a very responsive engine that starts up with ease and doesn't eat seals (since it'll run gasoline at start and shut down), while making more than enough power to be traction limited in almost all scenarios (trying to keep with either 225 or 245 max tire).
  40. 1 point
    Never thought about it but it but it would work... I love how at the end he says "now you have seen how easy this is to do". That looks like 4 days worth of work for 4 corners.
  41. 1 point
    Hey there! That's exciting to hear about the block and the hatch. The hatch has been growing on me, but I haven't put the stock hatch on it yet to compare! I had actually heard that about the TC rods, and was going to get the OEM rubber bushings for that! Scary stuff... And it totally looks like all the wiring in the car will have to be addressed at some point. Its functional for now, but not elegant by any stretch of the imagination. I'm not great w/ electrical stuff, so I'll likely be enlisting the help of others with that! I look forward to continuing this build! Thanks again for the info!
  42. 1 point
    Check out this article on the Driven Racing Oil website re zink in oil. http://admin.compperformance.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/proper-use-zdp-engine-oils/
  43. 1 point
    Yes I found that I get around a 1/10 of the adjustment out of the camber plates vs adjustable control arms. I think I wait to use the KMAC plates if I ever do a coilover conversion.
  44. 1 point
    Found the problem. There is a relay attached to the motor which, I believe operates the parking system. Mine was toast. I bypassed it and now motor operates as long as I want. Just have to time shutting off wipers to park wipers correctly.
  45. 1 point
    Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them) And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights: Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before: After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*): Then the hood stay / lock mechanics: So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong - What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of "exploded view" shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    yeah man, that undercarriage is top notch!!! wow what a labour of love!
  48. 1 point
    That rotisserie and frame reach is ingenious! They definitely thought that design thru thuroughly with all the different ways to elevate, level and rotate the frame and chassis.
  49. 1 point
    Please be aware that the EFI units used on the L series engines are analog and not digital. Also the use of an AFM instead of a MAS creates a restriction. I have yet to see an instance of a modern EFI system properly tuned NOT providing more hp, torque, driveability and gas mileage throughout the entire power range vs a carb setup. In the case of high horsepower/rpm setups operating in a narrow range a carb setup can work just as well and be simpler.
  50. 1 point
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