Jump to content
HybridZ

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/10/04 in all areas

  1. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  2. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  3. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  4. The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backi
    2 points
  5. Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
    2 points
  6. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pic
    2 points
  7. an LS is also vastly more expensive then a traditional 350 swap. He should do whatever he wants to do.
    2 points
  8. Thanks to everyone that purchased a piece of apparel in the fundraiser to help @SuperDan with operating costs for the site! We sold a total of 88 shirts with a resulting profit of $1202.19, which I just sent 100% of to Dan. It won't show as a donation because I sent it via friends and family to ensure every penny made it to him. This should cover the site's costs for about 6 months. Moving forward, I'll be doing an annual apparel sale with 100% being donated towards operating expenses. Each year we'll do a different promotional item since many of you now have several
    2 points
  9. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights swit
    2 points
  10. katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoi
    2 points
  11. It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
    2 points
  12. I noticed some traffic on my web site from HybridZ and was pleasantly surprised to see a thread opened on the CV axles. Thanks John! Mods, I'm new to this 'vendor' role, please let me know if I'm breaking procedures etc... I'll keep this theme to simply answering some of the questions raised above. Please don't hesitate to add questions and I'll continue to answer as best as I can - w/o giving up too much R&D. "...he seems to be quite a regular in the "Dime" community" - that I am. For the past 7 years I've been a proud owner of a 1972 Datsun 510 2 do
    2 points
  13. Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes
    2 points
  14. Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better
    2 points
  15. Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
    2 points
  16. Quite a few things wrong with that Tune. No wonder you are having issues with AE. Made some revisions to. 1: AE settings. No where near correct. Made several changes there that should be positive. 2: Target AFR table far too lean at low RPM. VE table greatly affects transition off idle. Going too lean creates a bog. With proper Ve Table, less AE is required. 3: You were running Alpha N. MS3 has a special Fuel algorithm for ITB's. I have enabled that. 4: Spark Table needed some work 5: I've noticed that you have your O2 feedback control disabled. I have enable
    2 points
  17. I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose. Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too. Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).
    2 points
  18. Machine work finished! I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done. The VCT holes are drilled and tapped but they haven’t been drilled all the way through. Easily opened up with a drill if needed. The head has provisions for three sub plates. Timing chain idler, upper tensioner and a slack side guide pivot. The idler and tensioner are connected to the oil system and o-ringed. It is getting really crowded in there with all the oil passages, head bolts and cam tow
    2 points
  19. Ready for battle! Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.
    2 points
  20. With all do respect newzed you have contrbuted nothing new to the solution of the problem that I had not already addressed many weeks back with DSS. I may not be using terms that agree with you.... I said “bind and won’t turn” and you prefer “won’t spin”. Your suggestion of filing off a dust cap is impossible as we are talking about solid billet machined parts that are meant to be to spec. You just can’t take a file to this stuff and call it good and I don’t own a lathe. I purchased these parts at great cost per DSS selling them as bolt on and in regularly use on many S30 Z’s. They have s
    2 points
  21. Just installed 5mm flat bar at the bottom of Lancer EVO8 Recaro seat. I need to drill a adjustment hole on the original seat rails.
    2 points
  22. I have meaning to start up this thread for long time. In the past 10+ years I have learned quite a bit about building and racing early Z cars. So I decided to take all my knowledge and build the "ultimate" racing Z. But of course that is a relative term. More precisely, an early Z that is built loosely to the IMSA GTU rules of 1978 and legal for vintage racing. This actually allows quite a bit of modification, so my attempt is to apply lessons learned from 40 years of racing into a car than can compete with muscle cars from the late 60's. Both HSR and SVRA group the GTU cars in with typ
    1 point
  23. Hello everyone on the Forum. New member in the LA area. Just a acquired a ran when parked 1973 Lime, 240 Z. Its was in decent shape for the price. Hope to get it running soon. I have almost no info on the V8 other than what I can find on the internet. Block is from a 1976 C60 truck or bus. Heads look like 882 casting 76cc smog heads. Edlebrock performer intake and Holley 4bbl carb. 4L80 transmission, BM Quick Silver shifter. has no other upgrades that i can tell so far. Hope to learn a lot from the forum.
    1 point
  24. Hello HybridZ! My 240z recently seized up its drums at the track and I thought it is time to convert to a disc brake. I went with the kit from Zcardepot and ended up adding some parts of my own as well to make it work. Here is my review and headaches and pointers from installing this kit. I will go though the process and when the issues occur will be written in chronological order. GOOD POINTS WILL BE HIGHLIGHTED IN BLUE. MEH I AM NOT MAD NOR PLEASED IN GREEN. BAD POINTS WILL BE HIGHLIGHTED IN RED. 1. Removing the Stock Drums There are tons of write ups on this
    1 point
  25. I'm just trying to learn some things, and create a relevant thread for the discussion of this suspension upgrade - preferably from people who have some experience with the kit. Got any contributions besides snide remarks about a fellow hobbyist's project goals? Cheers. This thread is NOT about Porsche. They have their own message boards. If you have no knowledge or interest pertaining to the Apex Engineered Track Attack suspension, please refrain from posting.
    1 point
  26. Thanks guys for all your thoughts and advice. I was up all last night going over my build sheet for the 100th time and I’m going off of my chats with my bud with the Hellcat build in Canada for dimensions and weights, + structural soundness and where he’s had success and failures. He’s a solid year ahead of me. Actually first off. Sorry for all the typos before. Didn’t have my reading glasses last night and was trying to type all this on my iPhone 6” screen. And wasn’t till I checked to see if any replies had come in, that I then saw all my typos. Seems you all got the gist of my me
    1 point
  27. one more week to go before Nismo Fiesta. There's a lot still to do. I really only expect to get it put back together and running to be able to get it down there. Real test and tune will have to wait.
    1 point
  28. Some pretty good info here https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/134342-Dual-Clutch-Transmission-(DCT)
    1 point
  29. Still making progress... just slow. The Sequential Transmission is in place. waiting on a driveshaft. look how much space it frees up! I wish I had done this back when we made the tunnel. It could have been so much slimmer. I also did a scan of the back panel. I'm going to make a mesh screen that's custom designed around the lights so the back can vent. It's a particular oddity of the way I built the car. Since behind the driver's seat is a plexiglass panel, the back is open to the ground. The opening in the back panel will allow air to flow up from under the car and over the diff and ideally
    1 point
  30. battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.
    1 point
  31. Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Thanks jhm. As FYI to all I'll be having a 1yr anniversary sale starting next week and ending Cyber Monday. https://datsunrestomods.com/blogs/news
    1 point
  34. I just downloaded the Tremec Tool Box app. Terrific--saved me a pile of time. And I am certain it is more accurate than the magnet-base angle finder I bought at Harbor Freight. This should be a sticky.
    1 point
  35. Hi all, I'm James, otherwise known as Larby. Long time lover of the S30 models, never yet owned one! I live in Guernsey, Channel Islands. It's a little 5 mile by 7 mile island between the UK and France. Tiny place, no 240's! I run a performance fabrication & tuning company here, with my background being in Land Speed Racing & Engineering. Most of the work we do at present is bespoke for local customers, but I have a plan I've been thinking about for a while now, which I'm aiming to have underway by the end of the year... I'm looking to build a low volume production 240z kit
    1 point
  36. Update: So I changed the clutch collar and bearing to the correct one. I compared the clutch collars and it seems to be about the same. So far no problems going through gears. I am testing it tom Am for slippage.
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. Searching facebook never works that well for me. I love forums.
    1 point
  39. Went digging in the junkyard today with the CV spider in my pocket. Turns out the 02 explorer has the same diameter shaft ends... but courser splines. The good news is its a solid heat treated shaft and its the same thickness its whole length, necking down only for the splines. I also called moser and talked to them about sending in a core shaft and paying for two pairs of CV axle spline service and they're happy to do it so long as they look everything over and it seams like it works. Cutting the heat treating off the hollow shafts just wasn't sitting well
    1 point
  40. I think part of the reason I spend so much time here is that I enjoy the spirit of the board. The "there is no best" rule comes to mind. There really isn't, depending on your geographic location, your skill level, your support group, the best is highly variable. Throw in things like the activity and we find a different "best" emerges for each one and at that point there is no best. I think once you grasp that you realize on the other hand, there is no worst, something really might be an option for someone given their walk in life. You apply that to real life and to hate a group of
    1 point
  41. Owner of V3 sent me an update picture. Pretty freaking cool if you ask me. I checked the 3D model and tilted the amount they did the intake side of the water jacket is just below the outlet so hopefully there won't be any steam pocket issues. Snifff....I'm so proud:)
    1 point
  42. Sorry, wasn't a question. It was a statement. I also degreed mine 8 degrees advanced from straight up.
    1 point
  43. I don't post here often, but as owner of FutoFab I thought I would chime in about the FutoFab STi conversion stub axles. FutoFab purchased the WCR stock after Todd Walrich passed. Part of this stock included the Beta Motorsports / John Williams designed stub axles. We also heard about breakage issues on those axles and decided if we were to carry on with STi stub axles, they would be made by a driveline shop from axle forgings, not machined from billet stock. We felt using an axle forging for our stub axles would improve the quality in 2 key areas.
    1 point
  44. That's it haha. Personally not a fan, but it can be done well, and probably more aerodynamic than some other options, and DEFINITELY better aero than stock.
    1 point
  45. " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
    1 point
  46. Yup, it was the brake booster. Replaced it and everything is good now! Thanks guys!
    1 point
  47. WOW man..WOW..really? You're just digging yourself into a big hole. The typical "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor, is a Potentiometer. It varies voltage throughout its sweep, its a variable resistor called a Potentiometer, utilizing 3 wires. The 3 typical terminals would be VREF (Voltage Reference), GRD (Ground), and SIG/SGN (SIGNAL). The Z31 utilizes a single-connector TPS on manual cars, as throttle position SWITCH, and is only an idle switch. 86-89 Automatic cars have a secondary connector that has a potentiometer to show true throttle position for the transmission control module, while
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...