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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    You're in the entirely wrong area, but here you go
  2. 1 point
    This past weekend I took the Z to the track after doing some updates. The last time I had it at the track was April 2018. I went to Thunder Valley Dragstip in Red Springs, NC. First pass I snapped the 4 bolts that bolt the driveshaft to the pinion flange. I can’t complain because they have been in the car for 12 years. I got them replaced. Went to the starting line and went a 5.23 in the 1/8 th did not have the mph. Now guys this is a stock R200 with 300ZXT CV axles and stock stub axles. First off all the glory to God!!! I have a Great friends and family. Thanks
  3. 1 point
    Hey all, Wondering how fast (ET) any of you have gone in the quarter with stock 280 stub axles and flanges? I am not pushing mine very hard with an auto, and a tight converter, and running 12.05 to 12.08. I am putting it up on the converter to stage, so everything is preloaded and there is minimal shock.(235/60 mickey dr's) I would like to upgrade the heads, cam, ect, Should I upgrade the stubs before I go any harder? Thanks.
  4. 1 point
    Beautiful job overall, but that coolant rail is the best I’ve seen! Are the pushlok fittings. Connected with flared hardline?
  5. 1 point
    Only you, the owner/driver, can answer the question of Eibach (or any similar lowering spring) vs stock. Do you want stock ride height and softer ride, of do you want lowering and firmer suspension? Tokico is another good lowering spring, but they're pretty hard to find at this point. Vogtland seems to get good reviews, but I have no personal experience with them. Here's a link to one vendor for the high-quality bump stops referred to above. Pricey, but worth it if you're serious about good handling: http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm
  6. 1 point
    oh wow sometimes i can be such a neanderthal i swear. Found the source of my supposed 'rod knock' ... a nice 1/8" hole under the #2 air smog pipe that connects all the exhaust runners on the manifold together, like i cant believe i didn't even stick my hand around that area to quickly check for a leak. Heh though i don't regret checking the rod bearings and i certainly don't regret cleaning the filthy oil pan, all's well that ends well thanks everyone!
  7. 1 point
    She is an Aug 76 serial number I've owned it since 78ish It has always work until now. I do suspect the voltage reg 7pin connector - Time to get back in there... Thanks for the comments.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000. Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things. The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environmental Solutions. Single booth 23' x15' was $9995.00 and twin booth 23' x 48' was $19995. They seem to be made of material similar to those auto paint shop curtains that divide up shop areas. According to them, the booth is made of materials that pass NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)701 test methods 1 &2. TV's Garage Squad show is shown using their booths. But I would check with your local fire department first before purchasing one.
  10. 1 point
    So, I was randomly looking back through my old posts and stumble back on my intro for HBZ. 5 years ago I got hooked on Datsuns. I stopped posting to focus on reading and learning more. Because of the overwhelming amount of information available about these cars I didn’t find it necessary to ask many questions. I stopped updating my introduction after i bought the 76 280z. The 280z has come along way since then! In the past 5 years it’s seen a lot of redoing. Iv’e changed wheels, flares, engines, ECUs, a few times. Although not the most efficient way to modify a car, it is allowing me to learn, improve and keeps me interested in the process. My only underlying goal with modifying it is to keep pushing toward the car having a “special” feeling to it. I can’t define a “special” feeling exactly but it’s a feeling i would like to have when i look at the car in the garage, sit in it, show it off, and while driving. A few years ago I swapped the l28 for a l28et. My first engine swap. It went pretty well and the experience was a huge confidence booster. It made the car feel way better on the highway and the exhaust note was awesome! The next year i decided to hop up the power a little and add Injectors, FP, larger turbo, IC, 3in exhaust and MegaSquirt. I had some help tuning and was able to learn a bunch about wiring and street tuning. The power gain was pretty substantial. Although I did not get a change to dyno it, my guess is it made around 300hp with a lot of torque. I really felt like this was the sweet spot for the car. Enough power to feel “fast” compared to a modern car, but not too crazy. A few months later I decided to start liking the Gnose. The Gnose really transformed the look of the car. I took the car to Gridlife Midwest and it won Best JNC classic! A proud moment for me as it was my first car show and i honestly didn’t build it with the intent of entering or winning any. Last winter the Z got some greatly needed upgraded wheels, and a RB25 fell into my lap. I wanted to keep the white blue contrast going and had some Wantanabe RS8s custom built for the Z. The wheel size and width are totally for athletic purposes and I’m fine with that. I had been wanting to do a RB swap since before i did the l28et swap, they where just too pricey at the time. That winter I stumble across a cheap local RB25 for sale locally, and decided to take the plunge. I refreshed all of the accessories on the RB and installed an upgraded turbo, turbo manifold, ECU Masters EMU Black, custom wiring harness, 1000cc injectors, even larger FP, fuel rail, and open dump external waist gate. I also took the opportunity to clean up and paint the engine bay. People would always ask me to see the turbo swap and with how messy the bay was before i was kinda embarrassed to. I learned so much during the first swap the RB swap came out so much cleaner and came together much more easily than i would have thought. This time I did all of the initial tuning myself and took it to the dyno to get it fine tuned under boost. Made 400hp on 93. The RB25 make the car feel much more modern and refined when not in boost. On boost its pretty intense! It kinda feels like having a loaded gun on you. I was missing with the idea of tuning it on e85 but i think I am good with the power it has for now. I’m also still using the u-joints in the rear, so I am planning to upgrade the whole rear end soon. Also happened to win a showcase award at Clean Culture MI! In all, I've been humbled by how much other people enjoy the car. I've met interesting people, made good friends from people just starting conversations about it. HBZ has been a constant resource for me throughout this project. Thank you all for the quality info and keeping the forum alive!
  11. 1 point
    I'm not familiar with the EFI stuff but where is the PCV valve located on that manifold? Are there any other possible oil paths into the intake that you haven't explored, outside of the stem seal and piston rings?
  12. 1 point
    Not trying to be critical, but do you drive the Z like you do the Forrester? I noticed from your Forrester video that you turn the wheel into the corner and hold it for a long time. To be fast in a Z you need to get used to the rear of the car moving around a lot, especially when stock. The trick is to learn what's too much and what's just right. To someone that's never lapped a Z hard before this can feel like the car is going to kill you. You will be unwinding the wheel after turn in much faster in the Z. If you're not then it's like driving around with your foot on the brakes. It also helps to get the entry speed up, which looks lower across most of your data. Cary
  13. 1 point
    Thanks jhm. As FYI to all I'll be having a 1yr anniversary sale starting next week and ending Cyber Monday. https://datsunrestomods.com/blogs/news
  14. 1 point
    Hello @Zetsaz, We are currently just running the sales side so that they can focus on catching up on manufacturing, we are also helping to organize orders in a way that allows us to be more transparent with customers about their order. At any time a customer can contact us and we will have an update for their order within 24 hours, we also have a strict 4-6 week lead time for anything that is made to order. Along this note we are also working to hold more Retro-Spec products in our stock so that we can ship within 2-3 days instead of waiting for manufacturing. Please feel free to contact us if you have any other questions or would be interested in any custom parts for your Z. Thank you!
  15. 1 point
    I like to take my Z to car shows over the summer months. It's a daily driver so the paint is 22 years old and has 100,000 miles worth of rock chips etc. The interior is getting a little worn and the wheels are definitely not the "in" style. It is, however, usually the only or one of a few Z's at the show and tends to draw a fair amount of attention. I also spend my time standing beside the car (rather than sitting in a chair behind it) and talking with people as they come by. I've heard a lot of nostalgic stories about the Z's people used to have. I also keep my racing helmet sitting on top of the car and talk kids into putting it on and having their parents take pictures of them in the car. The kids and the parents love it. Lie I said - it's a daily driver, not a show car, so it's ok to touch, sit in, etc. Interestingly, of the five shows I went to this year, I came home with a trophy from three of them. Go figure. Really pisses the guys off with the 6 figure show cars that get nothing.
  16. 1 point
    It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
  17. 0 points
    hello, How did you fix this volt guage?
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