Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/14/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech reading, learning, planning then changing the plan a few times. Finally settled on a build which I will get into now. Engine I knew I wanted an LS3 motor because it's powerful, compact, well supported by aftermarket, and affordable. Grabbed a 2008 Corvette LS3 complete pullout. With cam and headers upgrade 450+ rwhp is easy, more than enough for a 2600 lb car being built for the canyons, Autocross and track days. Transmission The F-Body 98-02 T-56 fits the S-30 chassis well, shifter lines up in stock trans tunnel hole almost perfectly. However, these are hard to find and expensive on used market so choosing a new Magnum-F, touted as "direct" replacement for F-Body, makes sense. For the added cost of new over used, you get brand new never beaten on trans with better internals capable of handling more torque and improved shifting. This is a major purchase line item so have been it putting off as long as possible. Time is growing near to get it into the garage... Rear Differential Although my 1995 Z has a stout-as-hell R200, the rest of the stock rear is a mess needing expensive upgrades to handle LS3 torque. A few Mustang 8.8 swap came and went over the years then Vlad, AKA Invincible Extremes, came out with his 2015 Mustang Super 8.8 swap. Watched the whole development thread then pulled the trigger, boom! Insane power handling with easily sourced parts. Ordered up Vlad's "tack welded" kit with his custom axles, purchased an 8.8 Torsen limited slip 3.73 gear diff and some new hubs. Done. Bring on the HP... Suspension Vlad introduced me to Noah (Instagram: @noahdropkin), a young talented mechanical engineer, when I had in depth technical questions about the 2014 Mustang spindle swap. Noah had the 2014 spindle swap at the time and also has the Super 8.8 swap. His main reason for interest in the 2014 swap, as well as mine, was it gave a cheap and strong 5 lug hub to match the rear 5 lug hub of 8.8 swap. There are a few compromises with the 2014 spindle that we discussed at length. Over the course of a few weeks of discussions, Noah decided to grab a 2015 spindle to explore its possibility for swap. Doing some magic with a digital scanner and Solid Works he concluded this could actually work, with some custom parts of course... Hot Damn!!! Noah started in on the heaving lifting of computer modeling and fabrication, he truly is the brains and brawn behind all this, while I peppered him with questions during design phase. When Noah committed to building a swap kit for his car he asked if I would like one also. Ah, Hell Yeah! Noah has test fit the kit posting plenty of good pics on his Instagram page. The end result is the wheel base remains stock, slightly wider tract width, improved scrub radius, good camber and minimal effect on Ackerman. Steering ratio increases due to the shorter steering arms on the 2015 spindle. For Noah's 240 steering rack, the resulting steering ratio is a snappy 10:1 while with my 280 steering rack is close to 11.5:1, a bit more tame but still fast. Off the shelf coil overs are available for Vlad's front and rear swap but Noah and I agreed that good dampeners are in order. Custom strut tubes were fabricated for the Koni 8611-1259 dampeners, arguably the best off the shelf dual adjustable dampeners for S-30 chassis. More details to follow as I dig into this build now that the major parts are here to play with. The last pic is 2015 Mustang with swap concept drawn.
  2. 1 point
    So been a long time but I finally got a retune after all these years. Only updated the fuel pump to an intank aeromotive phantom stealth and changed the boost to 14lbs. On a mainline dyno made 400hp which dyno jet numbers is 440ish on 14lbs which is exactly where I wanted to be. If i pushed it to 18 I probably can break 430 maybe 450 tops but no need at the moment. All this with 6th cylinder on 100psi while the rest are at 175/180!
  3. 1 point
    the girls.pdf Hello, My name is Mike. I live in Gulfport MS and work in Charleston SC (for now). I've had this 1978 280 Z for about 3 years. It hadn't run for over 15 years when I got it. I had it running in a weekend …. And then the work began. I've actually got a line on one more in Mo but that's a different story. I love old cars and the challenge that they are to make them the jems that they use to be.
  4. 1 point
    Yeah, the car is gutted now and making rotisserie mounts to connect to bumper brackets today. A HybridZ member sent over a link with chassis measurements to double check the chassis is square before welding in SFC.
  5. 1 point
    While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a snug fit by filing the sides to fit. I hope this helps somebody else with this problem. R
  6. 1 point
    Still making progress... just slow. The Sequential Transmission is in place. waiting on a driveshaft. look how much space it frees up! I wish I had done this back when we made the tunnel. It could have been so much slimmer. I also did a scan of the back panel. I'm going to make a mesh screen that's custom designed around the lights so the back can vent. It's a particular oddity of the way I built the car. Since behind the driver's seat is a plexiglass panel, the back is open to the ground. The opening in the back panel will allow air to flow up from under the car and over the diff and ideally break up some of the cowl effect of air at the back. At least that's what I hope.
  7. 1 point
    Just cooked the pads and got some serious heat into the system. No brake cooling to speak of, which with wheels this small and wide is a real problem. The pedal felt alright, but the brake feel just didn't instill the confidence I wanted. I need to do some research and probably some testing to find something that I like. Water and Oil temps were a bigger problem, I could get about 3 hot laps before temps were too high.
  8. 1 point
    Here you go, https://tiltonracing.com/product/master-cylinder-reservoirs/ I have always found Tiltons reservoirs fit perfectly on Nissan MC's
  9. 1 point
    The u-joints can all be lubed. They might not have a Zerk fitting but they should have the hole with a slotted plug in it. Take the plug out, put a Zerk in, fill them up, and put the plug back in. Inspect the seals and seams closely for rust or looseness. If you do find a bad one, just replace the one. I found that the new aftermarket joints were looser than old Nissan joints.
  10. 1 point
    Just wanted to follow up with a bit of a progress update. I started stripping paint and bondo, used a head gun and a scrapper to get started, I guess I'll move on to a wire wheel at some point. The roof didn't look to bad, here is a wider view of the cracked area previously uncovered. I still can't figure out why it had any bondo at all there... The other side looks slightly worse, notably the seam, and then some rust on the inside the weatherstripping was covering... An example of some paint bubbling up with a bit of rust underneath at the rear of the hatch area that needs addressed... Spare tire well had a lot of rust, but still seems structurally sound... The fender that was the worst of my fears, not much more to say there that hasn't already been said... And the front part of the fender and rocker panel, this is the new area I'm most scared about. Looks like untreated rust just got covered in bondo and ignored...
  11. 1 point
    I just posted this in Electrical but here it is as well. Speedhut fuel gauge and MeterMatch Like a lot of others I’ve had issues with the Speedhut fuel gauge playing nicely with the stock fuel tank sender. I would get wild swings and was never really sure how much fuel I had. After some discussions on the Speedhut group buy thread I decided to get a MeterMatch from Technoversions. It basically takes the ohm readings from the sender and converts them to a more stable range for the gauge. So here is how I attacked this. I tried to install it without pulling the sender and it was just not working. And during the course of this I was getting some erroneous readings from the sender. So I drained the tank all the way and pulled the sender. I brought the sender into the car so I could manually move it to see what was going on. I set the fuel gauge back to default of 240 empty and 33 full. I then used the MeterMatch to set full and empty calibration. To calibrate you used up and down buttons to move the gauge needle and then save it when you get it where you want it. I had a really hard time since a single button push moved the needle almost a 1/4 tank. I ended up getting it close with MM and then doing a final calibration with the gauge. This worked really well. I reinstalled the sending unit and rewired it with a new good ground and a dedicated sender wire straight to the MM. I have a 16 gal tank. I put in 2 gallons and the meter read 1/8 and was stable. So far so good. I put in two more and it was a little above 1/4. Still good but I wanted to try the lower mid point calibration. As before the button presses moved the needle a ton. But I noticed the needle wasn’t stopping at the same place. I found I could walk the needle around by different combinations. I went to the gas station and put in four more gallons and the gauge read 1/2. Four more and I was a little above 3/4. Went for a drive and the needle was really steady compared to what I had before. Let’s face it a lever arm sender is going to have a lot of movement and if the gauge isn’t designed for that sender then it’s only going to be so good. So I got back to the shop and contacted Brian at Technoversions with questions about the up down calibration. Here is his reply: With regard to the MeterMatch, what you are seeing with the up/down resolution is on purpose. Most gauges use a fair amount of current, so if we made the buttons work at full resolution, you could be pressing one of the up/down buttons a thousand times to go from end to end. So we make the buttons move the amount in larger increments. But to make the points in-between accessible, we make the increments between up and down slightly different, so that all values can be selected. This is hardly noticeable on most gauges, but on some electronic gauges, such as the one you have, much less current is necessary so you are working within a small range of values, so the resolution appears to be much coarser. But you should be able to get there. So you can hit a specific target with the right combo but I will tell you it is a challenge. You can get the needle where you want it and after you take it out of program mode it changes. I set the upper mid point calibration the best I could considering the heat index in Florida right now and may revisit it in the future. From 3/4 tank and up I don’t care if it is accurate and truth be told as long as I can count on 1/4 tank being stable and accurate I’ll be happy. So to sum up. I would run a separate dedicated ground and signal wire first since in all reality that may have been the bulk of my issues. I already had the MM so I used it. If That doesn’t work for you then: Purchase MM from Technoversions Set the fuel gauge to default ohms since that is where it was designed to work. Use the MM calibration to get the needle to full and empty as best you can. I wouldn’t get too crazy with the button pushes since you are going to set the final calibration with the gauge. Recalibrate the Speedhut fuel gauge. Install the sender and use known amounts of fuel to check calibration. I plan on draining the tank when it reads 1/4 and if I have 4 gallons then I’m golden. I’ll update this thread after I drive it a bit as well.
  12. 1 point
    Got the Z tuned today! Made 295 hp and 340 ft/lbs torque at the wheels on 87 octane. The tuner thinks he can get to about 350 go on 93.
  13. 1 point
    I have some lap data to sift through but the car (and me) were much faster, around 10 seconds without getting 100% clean laps since the track was really busy. I didn't get much seat time because it rained all morning but I have 3 more weekends lined up. Most importantly the car feels GREAT now. I wish I could explain better how the car felt before but images driving around on 2" wide tires. Now it feels like a car should again with amazing predictability in the corners and improved grip in the front. The additional reinforcement is very noticeable and turn in is awesome with the NCRCAs. The fronts are wearing evenly now which is probably where 90% of the change that I feel. It also tucks the nose in really nice mid corner if I ease off throttle a bit. Anyone that has seat time at the track understands just how important confidence is to lap times and I feel comfortable in the 260 now. As for the engine and brake upgrades.. hoboy does she fly now, actually slightly terrifying going 136 down the back straight with no ABS to rely on . But seriously there were very few cars on track that pulled harder in the straights. The HT-10s are amazing and will lock up the tires pretty easy at higher speeds so I buy in to the guys who say that you only need better pads in most cases, If I was running longer that 20 minutes I would looks for upgrades to manage heat but that is a non-issues for the time being. I may look at getting some spacers for the rear this season but am largely happy with improving my times in the car as-is this season. The next big project is coilovers to reduce roll and rear end replacement. I will get some video next time and post it.
  14. 1 point
    Car was final tuned a few weeks ago. With moving, being promoted, kids, remodeling . . .yadda yadda. I've started back on my projects, took some online tuning class over the winter and put them to use with my first attempt a dynoing my own car. Will dyno on e85 once I put the car back together and it's out of paint, still need to finish the interior and AC. 329 rwhp and 317 ftlb
  15. 1 point
    SO..... I finished the job last night, and took her out today. What a change. It's no F1 or lowered monster, but it doesn't squat like it used to when I start off (it went from what felt like 2-3 inches to .5-1), won't dip when I brake, even hard (from what felt like 3-4 inches to maybe 1) and won't lean very much anymore as I turn. BUT most importantly, it'll now stick to the road. In the last few months, driving it felt like it was floating on the road, and not like a Bentley might cruise gently, but more like walking on a grate, where you foot is flat, but nor making contact everywhere. That's what it felt like anyways, and it wasn't reassuring. Now, it feels like any other newer car, and follows the road and sticks to it, mostly. It's very satisfying. I can't compare to the stock shocks (new), but the KYB are very satisfactory. Probably a little but harder/harsher than stock but not too much, and if you have a car like this you won't mind a little extra "sportiness". Very curious what it'd feel like with new springs though.... So my final though : shocks alone are definitely worth it if you don't want to spring for a new set of springs (yeah, lame pun, but it was originally unintended). (Also, I just edited another post up here where I suggest anyone doing the shock (or shock/spring) job should buy all new boots and bumper stops from the get go, without even consider not buying any. )
  16. 1 point
    I assume you're talking about these: https://silverproject.eu/front-lower-control-arm-adjustable-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/?currency=USD They are cheaper then what's offered by about everyone else, and they look cheaper too. Why they went with some welded in tube and bushing is beyond me when everyone else goes with a heim joint. Unless you plain on doing a lot of very specific tuning and adjusting the length, you're eventually going find a specific length you want, and then you have a arm that basically the same as the stock arm except probably heavier.
  17. 1 point
    Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.
  • Create New...