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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/05/22 in all areas

  1. Sorry for the delay, life gets in the way of project cars. I ordered a custom wiring harness from rywire. I didn't want to mess about wiring. Everything is beautifully labeled. I had to add a spacer to the intake manifold to make the dry sump tank fit. It's a 2.3 gallon tank.
    1 point
  2. Jon, FYI, I usually do things the hard way 🤯 I welded up one end of both spacers, took them to my friend's shop, turned excess off ID and OD, faced to +.005. Surface ground to length. Came home and re-assembled both assemblies. Problem solved. Chris
    1 point
  3. Day of arrival. The chassis arrived yesterday, and I was able to get it uncrated and on the ground in about 3 hours. Cordless jigsaw and tin snips were indispensable. The rear wheels fit nicely and relatively easily over the wheel hubs (I mentioned concerns earlier about this). The hub pilots turned out to be 2.761" and the wheel center holes were 2.768". Some minor problems noted. The rear rotors, spec'd from a 2010-2015 Camaro, were supposed to have enlarged center holes to fit over the Corvette wheel hubs, but they were not machined, so they did not fit. I called Art Morrison, and they will send me out new rotors. Fortunately, I was still able to get the rear wheels on and snug to roll the chassis off the trailer. Very satisfied with the welding and metal forming throughout except one thing. The mid section frame width which I spec'd to be 51.25" is 51" on one end and 51.125 on the other. Front frame width and rear frame width (measurements which AME spec'd) are dead on. This bothers me, but I can overcome it by adding some shim plates to the sides if needed to get to 51.25". I spec'd the frame width to fit snugly in between the rocker panel drop lips. My steering rack simulator bracket made from oak didn't stay put with C-clamps on the front cross member, so I had to manually turn both front wheels to maneuver the chassis around and get it inside. I will have to redesign this using steel and then tack weld it to the front cross member before going forward with my bump steer and ackermann geometry measurements. The linkage itself is sound. Still unpacking and inspecting kitted items including Monotube Strange shocks and Driveshaft Shop CV axles. Next steps are going to be aimed at getting those measurements so that I can finalize the steering rack specs and get it on order ASAP. Will have to invest in a good bump steer gauge. Any suggestions?
    1 point
  4. Just a heads up for people reading this; there have been scams on classiczcars where a newly joined member messages someone looking to buy something. They say shit like, “go email my buddy at something@foo.com”. There have been accounts messaging me on here as well, with the same message format. So be careful!
    1 point
  5. Thanks Jon, no, the torque drag thing makes no sense to me either. Endplay spec. is 0 to .0059! I made a tool to use a beam style torque wrench to measure rotational torque. Spec. is 3.9 in-lb. I was getting 25+ before torquing. My spacers are short by .003-.004. I think that is my problem. Guess I'll have to make some. Thanks! Chris
    1 point
  6. Sorry for not posting in a while but I was rushing to get my 240Z finished enough to put it in a local car show. There were some more things to do in a short amount of time. Anyway, back to posting- Door Panel Repairs- Both Door Panels needed to refinish the original Horizontal Chrome Trim on the upper side of the panel. See pic below. To repair this, I purchased 1/4" Chrome Pinstriping Tape from Amazon( for $6). First, I used a small paint brush to apply a layer of Contact Cement on the Trim Piece. Allow the Contact Cement to dry to the touch before applying the Chrome Tape. Apply the Tape lightly first then checking it for straightness before pressing it down with your index finger. Trim ends with a Single Edge Razor or Razor Knife. Closeup view of the Repaired Chrome Trim Moulding. This repair method can also be used on Door Arm Rests. Using Velco Heat Sleeves- Velco Heat Sleeves were used to protect electrical wires near the exhaust from burning, Cutting the Sleeves will allow the Velco pieces to unravel as they are only sewn on. so I use a Hot Glue to fasten the Velco Tape on. Heat Velco Sleeve put on Starter Wiring near the Exhaust. Velco Heat Sleeve on Oil Pressure Sensor Wiring. Holley 3.5" LED DISPLAY SCREEN-one of three possible screen layouts available. ELECTRIC POWER STEERING in OPERATION- Note - Easy turning of Steering Wheel with 11" wheels and 285/17 tires. LS3 First START UP-Sounded Great! Next-CAR SHOW APPEARANCE
    1 point
  7. I've seen them on ZCD and ebay. Didn't realize this type of failure was so common.
    1 point
  8. So what I'm getting out of this is that I should run a bronze drive gear.
    1 point
  9. Haha! I'm all for a discussion about important race related matters such as oil pressure. I might be unhappy to be the catalyst for such discussions, but not disappointed to host them in my build thread. I've started working on the wiring harness. I have a friend who builds some really spectacular stuff for prototype cars, and offered to help me get a new engine and chassis harness sorted out for this car. We are trying to do it right, and he's managed to score some pretty serious hardware for me. We are using a Motec PDM32 which is all autosport connectors. One thing has lead to another, and he might be going a bit wild on the construction with the twisting and sheathing. This is all going to look hilarious next to my Megasquirt ECU (rebranded as a Notec from here on out!)
    1 point
  10. Starting a new topic based on hijack of Ben's FP 280 thread. There are a couple people, including me, building competition cars or running them at this time. Scope of this thread should define minimum requirements of an autox, time trial, or race prepared Nissan Z car along with advanced path for future upgrades. But mostly minimum requirements suggested for competion based applications. Hence the post under the Motorsports heading. First observation, amazing how long it's been for activity on this topic.
    1 point
  11. I guess at $2500 a set I have good taste. Anyone know of any similar wheels for $1000 or less?
    1 point
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