daschundtwosixdee

nasty shop= unhappy me

im emailing ,the guy i got my 260z from , athe list of things you need to see if he has anything. and if he does i will just let you and him hammer out the details. ill let you know what he says though.

yeah, but i beleive he is trying to fill a hole(i do not recommend) so i suggest weld with a patch panel and if need be wipe with filler then sand it down and if need be wipe with poly

i live in the boro and have a bunch ofguys in spring hill wanting to start a Z club PM if interested also who all is going to ZCON?

I just watched the fourth one about a week ago ,and i have no idea what it was about. i do know that it had a "1995 240 with an "illegal" mod" and then when you see te car it's an S15. i laughed

IMO no more than 1/4 body filler is accepted but that is just me and my "training" (NADC Grad right here) but if it's just tiny things i think you could get away with poly fill but im not sure i never really use poly.

As Istated in my INTRO post this is my first Z car and i am nothing but excited to actually get into one of these lil'guys. Onto my car it is a "74 260Z ,bone stock, and not any major rust (behind the seat ,about dollar sized) she is an early model z. but she is all there and alot of parts that are normally messed up are in good working order(i.e windsheild washer pump) and the only pics i have of her so far replaced all the 74 smog equipment with a set of freshly rebuilt roundtop SU carbs , also have replaced the sparkplugs,wires, and all related ignition parts. Then moved under the rear end and drained the gas tank(nasty job) and pulled the fuel pump .The PO had bypassed the pump because it stopped working so i cleaned the crud off of it and replaced the ground and took the pump apart to clean it and replaced the fuel filter and tested it to see if it works, and it does. . I started putting her lights and exterior back together... after getting gas into the bowls and putting the new fuel hose into the five gallons of fuel (in the portable gas tank). we pulled the choke pumped the pedal a few times and she started right up,(well sorta) After we got her to start we called it a day but i spent the next day chasing down $30's for a "spook" front lip and have it waiting on me and i also have a bullet mirror coming in a month or so

i know a guy that might. im not sure if he does but ayway PM sent

$30+shipping

yeah i agree 110% they are probably the best and one of the cheaper ones

also the only thing about this intake is they are kinda prone to cracking and the finish is not as good as the greddy also if you need some parts for it ie fuel rail and others let me know i have them laying around

i installed the FREDDY/isis intake on the last RB25DET i installed and i had to use the Q45 throttle body and a custom cable and i did not have to tune a single thing. hope that helps a little

every motor i have bought ( two RB20DET's three RB25DET's ) i have bought through a company called JHOT the shipping is quick( longest i waited was 1.5 weeks ) prices are good and all in all they make buying the motor you want a pretty painless deal also the customer reps there are actual car "people" so they know what they are talking about. http://www.jhotimports.com/ as stated i have dealt with them alot and every motor i have received from them fired right up after being put into the customers cars.

yeah i actually just realized that lol ... but i found a thread that had the info i needed ( im fabbing a harness bar)

bolt hole to bolt hole (the closest one together) and im sorry my car is four miles away and the road are iced over let me work on fixing that.

like the title says i need a measurement of the rear strut towers (cause i have not had the time to actually get out in the snow and measure it) i would like to make a bar to go from tower to tower (as a normal strut bar)