AK-Z

I know that this thread is about the chain tensioner but looking in the site that blackbeaut posted,I saw the they had a crank, then was thinking what factor limits the rpm capabilities of these l6 engines? Is it the balance of the crank, is it timing and/or fuel, or proper lubrication? For the crank, wouldn't it be just a matter of having a speed/machine shop balance it at an rpm that you are looking for or is there more to it than that?

Well I have a 280z and was wanting to do a engine swap. But do to my $$$ shortage I have to deal with my L28. In the mean time I was thinking, should I take out the EFI and carb it. I know the 240z were 13 sec cars with just a new exhaust and new carbs with oil cooler, but mine is a 280z so I know it weighs a little more. And then doing a dual turbo setup or a sequecial supercharger/ turbo setup ? I know pumbing the s/c turbo setup would be a pain. I'm trying to setup the car for autox and I know the s/c would help a lot at the low end and I know what could go wrong with this setup. So I would pumb the s/c idea by: filter->turbo->intercooler->carbs->s/c I already have a cummins varibale geometry turbo off a deisel and a eaton s/c off a kompressor and have all been rebuilt. I am good with a welder (arc, mig, tig) and my dad works for th eelectric company (vehicle maintainance) so getting the metal and fabbing up everything wouldn't be a problem. The carbed force induction is because of the manga Wangan Midnight and it would be easier to figure out if anything went wrong (although tedious). I posted this to get your opinion on this. So feel free to answer however you like but constructive crisisism is what would help me the most.

I got all the info from from zhome.com

Yeah learned this from reading from other forums reviews, well thanks for setting me straight. I might do a SR swap myself. So you guys say go venus right? I might ask stony where he got his motor b/c he lives near me.

Forgot about this thread. Well I got it started. It wasn't the coil. the spark plugs just need to be cleaned (or changed, but I'll do that later) and yes a fully charged battery is alway a good thin (xecept if you're touching the terminals, lol).

Well the intention of the dry weight proportion was more for the cars that would see the track more than it would see the street. I wouldn't think you would go to the track and just leave everythiing inside the car with you ( I would because I'm that lazy), but with the gas tank full it would be a 51/49 weight proportion w/o the other stuff(reason being only a 1% change is location of the gas tank . and all the tools and spare don't weigh all that much.) I recall one of Nismos 300zx JPGT models having driving characteristic problems because of the location of the gas tank. because it was mounted so far back of the car, it would drive different w/ a full tank opposed to w/o. I don't, suppose I'm rambling.

s30 it the model number as in s13, s14,s15 silvias. And BTW we can always dream

In reguards to doing a AWD zcar. I would think that It would be too front heavy. All of the AWD version of the GTRs were front heavy and caused a lot of understeer on the Nismo track cars as I recall. that with a s30 body (fairlady) that is considerably lighter than the Skyline bodies would cause the car to have insane understeer. It would be practical for a drag car, but for me I would just think it would be more to break ;P As I recall most of nismo's track skylines were converted to rwd because of the understeer (anyone can correct me on any of this if I am wrong on any of this). And nissan engineered the S30 to be WELL balanced, in that being that the dry weight of the car (weight with out spare tire, gas, tools, and driver) being a 52% in the front and 48% in the rear and how far forward you would have to mount the engine as well as the additional parts to make it an AWD car would just add even more weight. I know and LS1 swap only adds 30 lbs. to the total weight of the car, in the front, (not including rollcage and additional parts) compared to the old L28E. I want to do an RB swap someday, but I can't because of the no $$$$ problem, so all I can do is read up on all that I can before doing it. Since I can't use this knowlege that I aquired, I might as well have it out there just in case any of you might do something that might not be considered untill after you have done it. hope this helps any. Oh another thing; Does anyone one knows how much weight will and RB swap add to the total weight of the car so I can calculated which spot to mount the engine when I actually do it? if you can give me the weight of the engine and the weight of the trans that would be even better.

Has anyone tryed to fit a RB head to an L6 (24,26,28)? I know in japan that the z432and z432r versions had the S20 engine (DOHC engine that RBs were derived from), did the S20 engine use the same block as the SOHC? I recall that in like the early 80's there was a company that made race application DOHC heads for the L6 engine, has anyone happen to stumble apon one of these rear finds. I know some one on this forum is making one from 1 1/2 240sx (KA or SR heads, Idon't recall which) but I think thats way to much fabbing to be practical for me.

Sorry I didn't read the whole thing before I typed the reply earlier.

I to think that it has some merit. The new dodge charger has such a system. It uses a V8 that only uses 4 cylinders for fuel economy using many variables ( throttle position, acceleration, speed) to calculate when to disable/enable the other 4 cylinders. But the I don't think it would be as applicable for a line six, because of only using 3 of the 6 cylinders I would imagine some vibration and crankshaft problems down the line.

Well found that there is power to the positive lead while cranking and I tested for spark while cranking. I think all I did was fried the coil. My dad thinks that its cranking too slow so I'm gonna charge the battery. I just put the volvo coil in since I know the car started with that one before.

the fuse links seem to be fine. What else could there be? I think the comp is fine because it only controls fuel and the distributor controls spark by vaccum advance timing, but I could be wrong. It did try to start but it didn't. but still no power in positive lead of the coil.

I have a 78 280z and was running. I swapped the ignition coil with that of a volvo boat engine, it worked. Then I swapped it with the original coil. I put the leads on backwards by accident. I cranked the motor and no ignition. I check the coil and realized the leads were backwards, then I corrected it. I then cranked it for like a minute and could smell gas coming from the tail pipe, so its getting gas. I then realized that the seatbelt buzzer wasn't going off and the ebrake light was not on. I check the fuses in the fuse bax and are all good. I took off the positive lead off the coil and put a volt meter to it and the chassis and nothing (with the battery in and key in and turned on). Are there anyother fuses I missed? Does anyone know what I might have fried and is there a fix? I'm not in a big hurry to fix it. I might get another 280z (1977) in better condition, but its carbed and is an automatic, so I would like to swap my EFI, 5 speed and r200 diff into it.

I like flashoptions.com, they usually ship the whole front clip so you get the gaudges,tranny, wiring, and ecu, so basically everything you would need to get the engine running and then some. And they usually post new inventory every week. They are also based in US so no importation fees and should be US smog modified/legalize, but do take my word for that. Editted 6-15-2005 Disreguard what I stated above. Though what I stated maybe true their service is more worst then what really bad service would be. Other ppl on this and many others have stated so.

You can get everything at radio shack. I just got the LEDs on ebay because it was cheaper with high MCD rating

If you want a almost show car quality I would disassemble the whole car and have it not sandblasted but soda blasted (soda blasting is where they use course baking soda to blast it), its like about $20-$30 per a 20lbs bag of the stuff it will take off the paint and rust and isn't harsh to the metal like the sand media is. I would also see if acid dipping is an option as well.

When I got my 280z, it was like 4 years ago, the guy had to give me the car for me to take it. When I saw the car it had some rust problems that I would expect from a 25 year old car that in Alaska, but when I opened the car I saw a 50lbs sand bag in the passanger seat and one in the trunk (aaarrrrrgggg). When I got it home and started dismantling it, the first thing I took out was the seats so I could remove the carpet to get to the floor pan to see the condition. It was a Flintstones car. Both floor pans were eaten through by my now cursed enemy RUST. both holes were as big as a softball. Then rest of the car seems to be in ecellent condition except the roof. Its seems that the cabin's lowest inche of metal is rusting but the rest of it is perfect.you can see the line were the rust stops. One of the problems for this was obviously the guy drove it in the winter time when theres road salt on the ground, The second was the the Driver side door was replaced by a door not of the same type (my guess would a door from a 240z). the weather strip for the door never sealed properly thus letting salt water ( road salt) get in the car. Looking closer the rust ate more from the inside than the outside. My guess is its because of the black gunk that they sprayed on the undercarrage and inside the engine bay. BTW does antone else have this stuff on there car and is there a easy way to get it off with out dissabmeling the whole and soda blasting it?

When I got my 280z, the guy gave it to me because he was moving. It was a mess.I guess he got in an accident and the original dor got trashed, the rest of the car was ok though. He re place the door with a door from a 240z or a early 260z, he made it fit. Because of that and the guy driving it in the winter (Alaska) the weather strip never sealed properly and cause all kinds of rust problems. Yes the doors are stronger but not thicker or longer. as far as the door skin and hinges go, then are the same, but the inner mechanics and latch design are different as well as the lip for the weather stripping for the doors. I believe there are 3 door designs, but not sure.

uh, yes you can dim leds you just need a potentiometer with a greater range. A little electrical lesson for you Indy, a LED is a "Light Emmitting Diode," A diode is a type of circuit that lets eletrical current go in one direction, in this case the diode lights up when the circuit is complete. An LED is like a light bulb, but is a diode that produces very little heat (if your not overloading the LEDs load parameters) do to the lack of gas needed for it to produce light.

Yes they are incorperated to the original wiring. just add and sodiered them to the wires going to the bulbs. And yes the dimmer works.

I hard wired them in the LEDs in. At first I used label paper for the gauge faces, but it lood kinda cheesy so I kep those on there and used glossy paper and then ilaminated them and glued them onto the lable paper that I left on the gauges, for easy removal later on if I want to go back to the original look.

don't go flashoptions.com

Look at what I did in 5 hours (not including removal of dash). I sure am proud of my work. I have to work on something that related to my car since I can't work ON my car (stupid snow). Its really brighter in person, so the oil so I can see the oil/temp gauge just fine.

I posted it on zcar.com so I reposted it here