AK-Z

to clearify, first gen z cars with engien from a car 96 or newer. then register as a kit car. all kit cars are not subjected to IM testing, just dyno test.

Well most of the details to get it legal in a swap is found http://www.jeffchan.com/cars/nckcc98/ca-register.html These is another site on this but can't find it. Well to summerize it. If you do an engine swap from a car 96 or newer and have documentation, then you can register it as a "kit car" and all that is needed to be tested, that is equivilant to a IM test, is a dyno run at a certified facility. That is all and they just have the car do a dyno run, the car doesn't have to pass anything by my understanding. BTW these are by california rules and regulations. Another way is instead of having it IM tested then you can just have a "summertime only" pass. BTW these are to alaska regulations, you can just call a IM ref and ask to see if you can do this in your state. That pass is so you can only legally drive it from like March to like september. I learned this because our RV had to get a pass newal, most RVs aren't technically steet legal by IM standards. The last way that I can think of is, if you have previously had a IM test done on the car and they just did a tail pipe test and now you need to get it tested again, then do the swap and take it down there and hope that they just do a tail pipe test. I know the RB engines run ever some much more cleaner then the old L6 engines.

Not really sure with that trany. But I am pritty sure that if you can't find where the speedo cable goes than chances are that the trany has a sending unit for the speedo (electrical signal), or that the car that it came out of had the speedo sender (cable or sending unit) on the differential (nissan silvia s15). As with polarity on speedo senting units, I personally haven't found one, but I could be wrong. What car/manufacturer is the trany for/from?

lol "bouncy"

make sense now, but no one really has answered my question. can you fit a rb valve train on a datsun block, or has anyone tried?

Well what they mean by honing, is roughing up th ecylindar walls. If your grandpa has tools to do a engine rebuild from a previous rebuild, I'm sure he has it, you can just ask him. What it looks like is a huge wierd looking pipecone on a metal rod. What you do is atach it to a drill and shov it into the the cylindar and turn on the drill and move it up and down in the cylindar to have a even roughness inside the cylindar. You don't have to go to crazy with it just enought to rough it up little. This is done to let the the rings and wall wear together and is partically what is need to be "broken in" after a engine rebuild. BTW I would get/use some assembly lude also. After you are done with the rebuild, use 30 weight oil for the first 1k miles then switch to 5w30 oil. I think your grandpa knows most if not all that I mentioned.

Looks like the car I just bought for $400 also, lol. Same color too. Mine is in worst shape than yours though, as in the body (cursed rust), but the interior and the engine is in almost "came from factory" shape, just needs some vacumming.

I thought the stock compression for the l28 w/ n47 head was about 8.3X:1 (or some where in the 8s) which was about the ideal engine compression for a turbo. I could be wrong though. I know no one here cares much for hondas/acuras but I have a magazine that has an acura w/ a 10:1 compression and a turbo and they said that they need to put more fuel in to keep the engine from running to hot, or something like that.

What engine/ trany are you running? for all the original transmissions that came with these cars had mechanical cable to the speedo (which you probably already know) to go electrical guages you need a sending unit and I don't think that autometer sells sending units. I've read somewhere that the the stock speedos were set about 5 mph faster than actual speed (45 on guage, btween 40-45 actual speed). because you can't really calibrate them, don't know about autometer mech guages though. Th electrical is for sure, but I don't think they make a speedo sending unit for the first gen tranies.

so for the front you need adjust the "bump steer" using spacers? and for the back you just need to adjust the camber (angle of which the wheels are in relation the the ground) and one way is to change the pivot point of the control arm, and the other way is by getting a camber adjuster mount ( or whatever you call it)? I'm reasking what was posted to see if I'm understanding correctly.

Sweet. Whats the engine compression you car running and how much boost, are you running a turbo block (f54 engine block)? Do you have another thread for this? I might want to attemp the same thing when I do an engine rebuild VERY soon.

I think zcarparts.com sells a oil cooler for the non turboed versons of the engine. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PCLC03 Its basically the same but the piece that goes to the cooler is just sandwiched between the block and the filter and doesn't require the right angle piece. I'm pretty sure you could use it on the turboed blocks (f54 block). Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong.

Glad I could help. If you're impatient (like me) you could try threading it yourself, but it would be a pain to get just right, especially on a nut thats pretty much a blank. But hey you're getting another one, so if you screw up the threading then you can just wait.

Ok. My situation. I have 2 280z. A 77 and a 78. 77 is automatic so it has a r180 diff. the 78 is a manual so it has a r200. the 78 body has more problems than the 77 so I'm going swap everything into that. So I'm going to have a spare L28 engine. I'm going to rebuild that engine to be turboed. I can get a 300zx turbo for like $50 from I guy I know. I know to check if it has any play on the shaft and if the fins are messed up and all. What other thing should I check? So I guess my question is: How do I plumb the oil lines in a L28e block and if theres any additional info on the 300zx turbo (turbo not car)(i.e. water cooled lines ect.)taht anyone can give me.

I know to use assembly lube and all, but I heard to use "junk oil" for like the first 1000 miles to help brake it in, is this true? I believe I heard it on supr2nr tv when it was on the air. (now the hosts are doing a show on the history channel racing vintage cars called Full Throttle. They raced 2 240z on one episode)

I have heard of it happening but not on arp stud kit. You might want to contact who you bought them from and the might give a replacement nut.

I'm not really sure. I thought that there was only an issue with the bump steering and all you need to correct that is a bump steer spacer http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC11

I also have a 77 and a 78. The 78 is my parts car as well, I'm and currently rebuilding the 77. In comparing my cars, their wiring insider the cabin is different, but could be because one came w/ ac and is an automatic, the other is base model manual. What are you planning to swap besides suspension? What I am trying to do is swap the engine, trans and diff into the 77 from the 78 am I gonna run into problems as well?

Another thing is the 77 has twice as much wiring than the 78.

I have 2 280Zs. Ones a 77 with a good body and crappy engine, the other is a 78 with a good engine and crappy body. The 77 is an automatic w/ AC, the 78 is a 5 speed w/o AC. I tried to rev the 77 engine over 4 grand and every time it stops at 4 grand. the 78 has no problem going over. Well I'm going to do an engine swap soon so I'm going to have to do something about this soon, so what I want is the 78 engine in the 77 body w/o rev limiter (or what ever is making it stop reving over 4 grand) w/ AC. The 77 has twice as much wiring than the 78. Would I have to "piggy back" the 77 ecu?

Peter what are some good ways to remove broken headbolts? I have a 78 280z (body is junk) and a 77 280z (body is good, engine is junk) the 77 came with a n42 head and the 78 a n47. I've read that the n42 flows better on the intake side, is that true? SO what I'm gonna do is swap engines and swap heads and afraid of the bolts breaking in the process. So, all in the good car (77) will be 78 engine w/ 77 n42 head. Innerware have you tried cheching the temp sensor for leaks? Are you running a L26 enigne or something else? You said you had a JTR radidator, the reason why I'm asking.

Where did you ge the caliper mount? I want to do a disc conversion as well ( I always want to do everything to my car). Is it just removing the rear drums, shields and back plate and bolt the adapter, caliper and discs? N/M about where you go the mounts.

Sorry took me a couple of times to understand what you type. So you use the front cut struts on the rear? And you just put in the VW struts in the front without doing anything to them?

Trouble keep me updated on your exploits. Let me understand you correctly. So you sectioned (cut) the old carterage and slid the VW ones in and welded a spacer to limit the distance that the VW strut slid into the old carterage. correct? What about the back? What did you do with the "top hat" part, did you drill then?

Almost forgot. If you are dropping the rear end from the 280, then you should yank the speedo gear from the 280 trany.( what ever fits in your pocket is always free:icon44: at a pick & pull)