AK-Z

Lucky you. I will eventually buy one, only when my chassis is cherry.

Can't you just use the normal p90 head lifter. From what I have read that the hydralic lifters aren't good for preformance because of the high rpms used on the lifter and might cause floating valves. It does run quieter though. It will be hard to find a replacement for the lifter, but not as hard to find a race DOHC head for these engines (they did have them but no one can find them, they were all aftermarket like 30 years ago)

I would lile to know how you welded the internal channels and did you have a custom set of cams made for the modded 240sx head. Also was the head tempered after the welding was done. I wish that I had the patience and money to do the same thing.

if you want to strip off that "primer" then get some paint stripper from walmart. It will strip it dow to bare metal andjust have to primer, prep and paint.

not sure, but I would spray some "sample" piecesand see how it turns out

I beg to differ. There a bill that was pasted a while ago that states that a car 30 years or more don't have to be I.M.ed or dymo'd. In the same bill it states that if a engine swap is done on a car its illegal to put a engine in older than the car itself and goes on to say that swaps with an engine 20 year in difference to the car doesn't have ti be I.M.d and that it will only need a dyno test and them be registered as a "kit car." I had the website(s) bookmarked but I can't find them ( so many bookmarks) I had al least 3 websites along with the Cali DMV where its states that.

Also check to rust on the floor boards underneath the car. Other rust areas: Trunk sill plate and trund door (where they meet when closed) Rocker panels (tap and hear) Spare tire conpartment front and side vallance (body panels underneath the front bumper) Vary front support of the hood inner part of the doors (if possible) ***Totally incorrect info removed so there is no future confusion***

WOW thats a clean swap so far. You can almost put 2 of those in there (minus the trans).

Thats about how long it took for me to put mine in. Are you sure its the starter. Mine had a problem also. but it was the connection to the starter that was corroded. It wasn't that corroded for the viewable part but when I took it off, it was all green (copper-oxide or whatever it is) where it was connected to the starter. Wire brush fixed it all up.

I forgot toadd the there is no sales tax in anchorage. Its still $2.61 up here:D

I was thinking of stroking my motor but I didn't want to deal with the hastle of getting the engine bored out. Does any one know what the displacement of a stroked motor with stock sized pistons are? What is the size of the l28 pistons? You don't want to polish the cylinder walls on a rebuild. What you do is "hone the cylinders. the honer looks like a 3 finger robot hand, but pushes outwards with grinding material on the outside of the fingers. Kinda hard to descibe. I saw that they had one at Sears Don't know if I would get it though. Another tip is to use automatic trans fluid to "clean" the cylinders after. Just use a thin coat on and give it a couple of hours and wipe. You will be suprised at how much crap you find.

I would think it would be possible. There is someone here on the forums with a mazda 13b rx7 engine in theirs. The engine bay in these are HUGE. People have put corvette engines in these with a supercharger under the stock hood.

So if you're going to get a welder, stick with the name brands. Miller ESAB Lincoln Holbart (Company was bought out by one of the the other 3 I believe) Usually if its not upgradeable to gas then its not worth getting. Interestingly enought, I saw a caftsman welder at Sears that is upgradeable to gas. Don't know of the quality, but I think I'll pass on that one. Make sure that if you get one and you are doing the work at home or are going to be doing work with it in different loacations, that you get a "single phase" welder, if you have a shop in an industrial area then you might be able to get away with 3 phase. 3 phase is better, but most people don't have 3 phase power lines goin to there homes'. Another thing, Don't use some "costco/walmart" brand extension cords. The quality of the wire in the extension cords count, especially anything around 50 feet. If you use those cords from costco I will garentee the that you are going to have problems when you are trying to lay a strutureal bead (not spot welds). The welder won't have enough power for it to be able to lay a consistant bead (stop and go action) because the cord has to high of Ohmz ressitance. So I say just go to the Industrial hardware store and tell them what you are doing and they will give you what you need or if you know what you are doing somewhat, then you can go and make you own cords.

Up here in Alaska the cheapest I've seen is $2.61, but on average its $2.69.

For the welder. I recommend the lincoln SP135 plus. The transformer is copper (waht quality welder have) as opposed to aluminum (won't last, but will work), and is it can use gas (gas wire feed). Its like $500-600 depending where you look, but it will last you a lifetime. If you want to get something cheaper, you can look for the SP125 version used. They just have 10volt difference in output. Duty cycle in welders is the ammount of time that someone can run a conitueous bead and also the amount of time between beads that the weld should perform at.

The critical part of stroking is not the pistons (remeber I said critical) its the balance of the crank and equal weight/balance of the c/r and pistons. Piston quality is one factor but if its not balanced, then that will just multiply the problems of the quatily of the pistons also c/r quality. I would like to see a 3.0l stroke w/ boost. This is what I wish that I can do with a supercharger, but reality sucks. What you can do the hide the turbo is make a "sheild" out of sheet metal, light acid etch, zinc plate it, then get it dirty (alot of money and work but its seems like you have no definite budget). With the numbers you want to make, I would think that you would have to get a I/C by some point. You can go air to water I/C or what ever its called. (alot easier to hide) If you look for fairlady TT in the japan search engine and use bable fish to translate then I think you can find a setup making 700whp. I believe that it uses a l28et block stroked to 3.1 using carbs with a "blow by carb" TT setup.

WOW. learn something new everyday. dielec grease to seal the connection. I used to use elec tape but is a pain when you have to unplug something so I just quit doing that.

what nissan truck is it? Another clearence issue you come across is the front drive shaft to the front axle as in suspension travel, but I don't think this will be a big issue. For engine clearence, you can alway indent the firewall but you probably need to get new drive shafts by that point, or if its moved in far enought you can switch the front and rear shafts. Just saying what you might have to do if in doen't fit. Most likely it will fit.

It is my understanding that you can run either: the stock dizzy w/ z31 CAS (crank angle sensor) or 82-83 280zxt dizzy (CAS is built into the dizzy.) It seems to be similar to the MSnS setup I would think that you can run the stock injectors If haven't modified the engine other than this (wouldn't hurt to get some for later). As for the TB I would just swap it for the z31 TB. The 280z tps is just a switch (on/off, not like the potensiometer of the 280zx and z31). You might need to get a adapter plate if you do this. Another alternitive is to get a 82-83 280zx or zxt TB they aren't the "switch" type tps and you would't need to get a adapter plate (like $60 from ebay I think).

It was my impression that the stock pistons could handle up to 225hp. BTW has anyone seen a TT exhaust manifold for the L engines before. I know that they used to sell them in japan but didn't sell them state side because the steering collum got in the way.

a mig welder at costco is like $185. Heat treating is where they temper the whole peice not just on one spot. If you heat treat on one spot you are going to cause a irregularity on the density of the metal causing one spot to be harder or softer then the surrounding metal which could cause cracks. the metal being harder is not always a good thing. harder metals don't give and bend as much as softer metals. Once a harder metal reaches its tensil strenghth its cracks or fractures. I wouldn't use a arc welder on any car. I would only use it on heaver duty truck chassies and nothing else on automotive stuff. anything you're arc welding that is less then 1/4 inche thick is pointless.

if you have soft pedal, I would check to see if something needs tightening and breed your brakes. Also check if your brake booster is leaking. Thats what happend with mine on one of my 280z.

check pad wear. have you swaped out the brake portotion valve? Might want to check the stock one if you haven't.

Well I desided to cut the car where the existing body panels are. One along the rear end of the rockers, and the other on the quarter window/ trunk pillar. I have to use a tourch to get all the lead out of the pillar though and after thats done I'm going to have to lead load it again. Any alternitives for lead loading?