AK-Z

CF drive shafts are a bit of an unkown to me as in performance, and I would stay away from them for the time being. Reason being CF is what hold the resin in place as it cures. Yeah CF is virtually indestructable some say, but it the resin that holds the structure. And when the CF breaks it the resin that shatters not the cloth. Aluminum ones to ful custim spec are like $200. Usually what breaks on those when it does are the U joints and usually can be repaired easily.

Detination is do to the engine running to "hot". Could be cause by other things but usually its because of the air/fuel mixture running a bit lean. Can be fixed by bumping up the fuel presure and/or putting higher rated injectors. Just keep it mind if detination shows up in your build.

IMO any head can be the "best head", its a matter of how much work you do to it.

If you do run hot then I would think that the problem would be the amount of fuel to the cylinders is a bit lean. I would upgrade injector sizes and bump up the fuel preasure a bit.

GO NISMO lol

For go tto mention that they aren't "flares" they are full fenders replacements.

You should ask the guy that runs Reaction Research. I've talked to him about what he could do or couldn't do. Last I talked to him was a while ago, and he was in the process of selling his business or something like that, I don't know if he did.

Lol. I personally would go with the metal gaskets. Its better safe than sorry, and I hate doing the same job twice when I don't need to.

Costco sells everything lol. $6000 is a lot of money, one would be able to get there car painted for less than that, depending. But you would get a portable shed/garage for more then just for a paint job. I guess it sound reasonable, but I would spend money elsewhere on the car, but thats just me.

If you go portable garage I would suggest in having filted positive air flow through it. not some thing like a tornado, but just something to move the air out while moving filered air in. When there is going to be frost out side (low humitity), heat the incoming air a little, then stop heat for a while, then stop the air and close the garage off (sealed). This will ensure that the there will be minimal amoint of dust as well as humitiy. Global warming is weird. East coast winters are way worse than Alaskan winters now adays.

I think the car Silent mentioned was a s13 stripped and gutted with a L28 motor built only for drag in japan. You also have to remember that when you raise performance that you are eventually going to loose some reliablity/longevity of the motor. With these motors, there are a limited amount of thing that you can do to it before it will eventually crap out on you, but thats the same with any car. Its just that with these its just a bit more limited.

At least yours are in better condition then how mine are. Everything looks clean, I need to blast mine and see what I have to do from there.

Are you talking about waxing or an actual cover? If its the wax, I would wait about a month or more. If its a cover then I would wait a couple of weeks. Don't use tarp. It also matters what type of paint you used (single/multi stage paint, heated/unheated [as mentioned}, expoy/enamel/laqure based)

Are the stub axles the same on the r180 as the r200? If it is I might have some.

Look at Victoria British. I have heard that there metal pieces aren't very good but for rubber pieces I wouldn't think that they would be to bad.

I would buy. (eventually)

IMO any head can be great. It all depends on how much work you want to do.

Can't you use a EDIS and yank out everything out of the dizzy and mount all the EDIS stuff inside it? Well I got a 82 zxt dizzy from ebay but the shaft was sold in a different auction with the oil pump. Does anyone have one that I can get? Has anybody try to do a ITB setup on these engines and/or is it worth it?

I don't know much about MSnS, but did you address some of the heating problems that MSnS had with its circuts? I remember reading about that somewhere. Another thing would be to check the grounds. Does MSnS have a error code or diagnostic?

Well I was wondering how would one tune for the most HP with the most "ideal" torque numbers? I know that alot a torque is good, but much torque in a slip second can cause things to break. Theres a LD crank on ebay right now. I would get it but no $$$. I have to wait for my paycheck and pray that there would be another one on ebay when I have money. Here LD Crank

I was thinking about using a pare of stepside truck bed fenders and start adding metal here and taking away there ect. I know its alot harder than it sounds. Has anyone made there own?

I think thats a little extreme for me. Well I have 2 engines that I can do my work on, a n42 and a n47 complete engines. This is not my thread but am interested in doing the same.

there is a tricky way you can do it yourself. Whether you want to do it is up to you. I did this with my gas tank to my bike. Empty the tank (obvious) fill it with water (yes water) add "washing soda" (a form of baking soda for washing) A table spoon to a gallon of water. negative to the tank positive to the a iron/stainless electrode suspended in the solution. Using a car battery or car battery charger. CAUTION: this is a form of electrolsis that separates the oxygen and hydrogen from the water. And also moves the iron from the negative plate to the positive (move the rust to the eletrode).

What color is that the paint in the pic. I want something about that color. Are you making the cage your self or is a shop doing it. Do you make the bends yourself or did you get them premade?

Thanks helix. I don't think the f54 blocks would have as much casting defects then the earlier versions but that just my opinion. That is why I don't want to bore the cylinders since I want to do a stroke on my n42 block. I would get a f54 block but I live in alaska and can't find "just the block" I know where I can get a 280zx non turbo though. I don't want to get another car just to canibalize it, I already have 2 cars torn apart in my yard. Its starting to look like red-neck country, lol. (not to affend anybody)