estrada42

Local news - Contra Costa Times National news - Twitter for real time, CNN or MSN to confirm whatever I see there Car news - Autoblog Tech - Engadget/HardOCP All other hobbies/interests - Reddit

Selfishly, I'd like to make the 205/55-225/50 work because then tires can be had for 50-60 a tire. Also, I have really good fenders. No rust of shopping cart dings. It's going to be a shame to cut them open.

$670 shipped. Ordered Monday, got them Wednesday. There N2 DIV2 Mesh Wheels sold on Zilvia under their wheel vendors page. They come in Gunmetal center like mine, or a painted silver finish. Also come in 15x9.5 +0.

So I ran home and immediately mounted them on the car with no tires. Again, these are 16x8.5/16x9.5 with +0 offset on both. They seem to fit pretty well. The rear is awful close to the strut tower, and the front comes within a hair of the factory swaybar. I suspect spacers will be in order as I intended to run bigger sway bars. The wheel in the rear seems to stick out of the fender well a little more than I would like so instead of trying to stretch 225/50 on the rear I'm going to to go with 245/50 and flare it.

I found them, just not sure what I'm going to do yet. In a perfect world, I'd stretch 205/55 and 225/50 and not cut my car up. Just not sure if that will work yet. Going to put them on the car tonight and see how they look and go from there.

Depends on availability of the rears. I worry that 245/45 is being phased out and I don't want to get locked into a size I can't get next year, but I will definitely check them out. Tire rack is a good reference for available sizes and nothing is available in that size other than about 6 autocross/race tires.

Just got my wheels delivered. Haven't decided on tire size yet though. These are a newer wheel line that I saw on Zilvia and fell in love with. 16x8.5 +0 offset fronts 16x9.5 +0 offset rears Thinking about trying to stuff them under the factory arches with 205/55r16 front, 225/50r16 rear with rolled fender lips, although I fear that I'm going to have to cut my perfect arches and install flares. If I flare it, thinking 225/55r16 front, 245/50r16 rear as 245/45r16 is becoming harder to find in normal tires. All I can find is race tires, or the Toyo T1 which I've had problems with in the past.

I'm in the same boat. If I do coil-overs, I'll set them once and never adjust them again. I don't plan on track time, so I'm probably going to go with some quality springs and shocks. I think, and it's only an opinion, that I would rather invest the money in freshening up my various suspension joints and good tires then spend $1000-2000 for a complete coilover set.

Only problem is 225/50r15 has pretty much disappeared over the last few months. I just searched my 3 main tire vendors (I work in tire sales) and I can't get anything under $170 a tire for Toyo R888's. There are a few 205/50's still but I worry that 15" performance tires are disappearing. That's why I think I'm going to have to use 16's.

Wow, that wrapping is pretty awesome. I had a crazy idea of vinyl wrapping my 74 in matte orange or matte white before I decided to take it to bare metal for paint. Keep it up, looks great.

I think we'll need bigger pictures of the engine bay. It appears to be an L series motor, but without block pictures I don't think we can guess which version. I'm going to guess L28ET with the intake and emissions systems trimmed down.

Does anybody have a picture of what a 1.2 inch drop all around looks like? Am I correct in assuming these are so new that no one has installed them yet?

What manifold are you using? It's hard to see, but is that a T3 top mount? If so how is the wastegate flange plumbed and how is it in regards to the steering shaft? Working on a RB20 HY35 set up, but am no where near ready to mount the engine to decide how to mount the turbo.

I'd be in. I would want them fiberglass so they could painted body color anyway.

In all seriousness, I'm surprised that with 3D printers getting cheaper and better someone hasn't started cranking out more old car restoration parts. This bumper cutout cover seems like exactly the kind of thing an enthusiast with a 3D printer would make for himself.

I wish someone would make these exact wheels in wide 16's. These exact sizes, but a 16 would be an instant buy, but 15" tires are rough. 225/50 Kumho AST's and 235/50 Toyo R888(?) are the widest performance street tires available right now.

After searching through the archives it seems like most people go with an external surge tank when they do their fuel systems on their 240/260z. Is there a specific reason not to swap in a 280z tank? I'm in the planning phase for my RB20 swap in my 260z and I was going to put in a surge tank, but I'm going to have to drop my fuel tank any way so I was thinking of just swapping in the 280z tank and not suing a surge tank. Short version is, "Was there a reason you went with a external surge tank over an EFI fuel tank?"

In California 240z and 260z don't require smog inspections and are fair game for engine swaps. Only the 75 280z is smog exempt so the 76-78 280z require biannual smog's. RB's were never sold in the States, so it's never going to be a smog legal swap. The other 49 states? 240z is lighter, and already looks like a 240z. Most modified 280z's got converted to look like 240z. I suspect that has something to do with it.

Mine are 4 lug, and I've seen pictures of silver ones so you still might have real Enkie ones.

I'll take more pictures, but the wheels have Enkie stamped on the inside of the wheel face. I found this chart when I was trying to ID them.

They look like the same wheels I had on my 260z when I got it. The Enkie 32.

I started with strip disc's. A few problems, not the grinders fault. 1.) Slow. It took about 45 minutes to really get the half the roof done. The discs take a bit of downward force to really bite in and the actual contact area is about as big as a 50 cent piece. At least on mine it was. I got more done with 3 hours of gel and scrapping than I did with a week of grindering. 2.) Dust. All that paint and primer (In my case primer paint primer paint) turns into dust and covers everything in your workspace. I'll be dusting camping gear off for months. Even with a good dust mask I was picking blue snot out of my nose for a couple of days. (The top coat was blue). 3.) Vibrations. Maybe it's my grinder, maybe there's ways to combat it, but after a half an hour of grindering my hands would go numb. I'm sure some gel filled gloves would have made it easier. 4.) Tight spaces. The gel is much better at getting in crevices like between the windshield and rain guards. For disc count, I went through 4 4.5 inch disc's doing both rear quaterpanels and half the roof. I suspect the hood, fenders and doors would probably take the count up to 12-15 disc's.

So I tried the razor method in the video and got nowhere. Then I used a chemical stripper and tried again, and it's amazing. I just have one problem (that's probably my own fault). The left I did with a grinder and a stripping disc. Did both of the quarter panels that way too before I got sick of the dust in the air. The right is a stripper/scraper. I'm worried that the difference in appearance is a sign that the right side isn't as bare metal as the left, if that makes sense. Do I need to go over the scrapper'd sections with a stripping disc to match, or am I good to primer after some thorough cleaning?

It looks like it's taking the top coat off pretty well, but has anyone tried this for getting too bare metal?