Ben

The S54B was only sold in a small number of countries outside Japan. There are a few dozen left here in Australia, but that is indeed a very rare find. Most have had the original engine turfed & an L28 fitted.

Where is your EGT being taken from? 1400F is a nice after-turbo temp considering the BMEP that thing would have....

I can't post pics right now (no camera handy!), but have a look on http://www.carfiche.com. Theere are 3 possible senders fitted to the lower thermostat housing on an EFI L series engine: A single wire sender is used for the coolant gauge. A 2 wire sensor is the thermotime switch. Another 2 wire sensor is used for the EFI & is the most critical of them all. The thermotime switch is a rather large (much bigger than the other 2) assembly and controls power to the cold start valve. If you have no cold start valve, then you will have no thermotime switch. If the coolant sensor has the slightest corrosion on the connectors (and is plugged in ), you can get quite erratic fuelling; lean when cold, rich when hot, flat spots, you name it.

No, it will not (the LY SOHC head will, as will the OS Giken DOHC head. Both are rare as.....). FWIW I spent a fortune getting my P90 ported last year (will post pics) and it flowed ~350CFM with manifolds attached. I don't have the flowbench data handy, but will try to get hold of it. A very interesting thread, but have patience - these things take time

There's no doubt the the SR20's weakness is in the rocker design. It really was a cheap way to finish an otherwise fine engine.... Other factors that may influence the SR vs CA arguement: SR uses a single row timing chain, the CA uses a belt. The SR is an all alloy block, and is not very easy to overbore (sleeves generally used). Fitting larger injectors to an SR ususally involves the requirement of a GReddy (or equiv) rail & manifold. The late-S14 SR's have VVC. Some pros, some cons, nothing too serious. And you all k now how heavy an S13 is compared ot a S30. I could just keep up with a S13 Silvia K's with my stock L28ET powered 4-door Skyline, so try trimming about 200kg off the weight & you're close to the mark. I know how hard the 'top model' SR20DET goes - my sister owns an N14 GTi-R (SR20DET AWD, 180+kW stock)

Valid points all round - The RB gearboxes can be fitted to L engines with a bellhousing adapter, or a bellhousing swap (C extension, B bellhousing). The RB20DET box is larger internally than the B series, the RB25DET box is also larger externally. I am considering the fitment of an RB20DET box behind my FJ20ET, as all that is required is slight crossmember modification & the slotting of the uppermost 2 mounting holes. Yes, it's that easy.

Alan, I would love you to be able to source a complete Kameari L6 catalogue - My big 'L' engine will be receiving ongoing funds injections over the next few months now that my Z is on the road. Actually come to think of it, if they do FJ parts I would like a listing of them too, as among other things I'd like to fit some adjustable cam gears to my FJ20ET & places like HKS aren't doing them anymore... You're always full of surprises!

Tough break, but don't give up. There will be a simple answer to your problem. FYI humidity will increase a fuels resistance to detonation, not decrease it. (humidity is your friend) I've only used Stock NA head gaskets with new turbo bolts and my L28ET has been used as a DD for about 4 years. It's a turboed NA engine, so it has a 'high' CR & detonation was an issue at specific load points with the A/C on flat out. the only things I blew were shift modulators - that will give you white smoke, nothing surer! Find out where the coolant is cominf from on the outside & also run the engine checking for bubbles in the coolant. You can also get a test done to check for fumes that have dissolved in the coolant. You MAY have a cracked head, and that crack could've been waiting to open for years....

There's one over-fuelling issue right there. You are venting 'metered' air, which has been calculated & fuelled for. Disable the BOV & see how you go. A little oil film isn't always the turbo's fault, you could have a bit more blowby than standard. Fit an external catch can & see how quickly it fills (if at all).

Do you have any catalogue data, or web pages that detail these specific components (HKS etc)? In my experience, these manufacturers move very fast to devlop new components for the latest engines. Then unfortunately the older stuff, although still available, isn't shown in the current product lineup.

A set of custom slugs would be my answer

Holy crap.... When too much horsepower is more than enough! I hope it has some big brakes to match those big turbo's....

Trust me the BNR32 has enough grunt to start with. Couple a STOCK RB26DETT with a Z and you have a force to be reckoned with. I suggest you drive it around with stock cams for a bit & then decide if you want to revise the profiles. Remember, you can dial in more/less exhaust/intake independantly now you have a twin-cam.

Because the RB26DETT tranny has a transfer case built-in.... Custom mounts are cheap, you will need to either fabricate a sump, get a 200ZR unit, or modify an R32/32/A32 etc. unit. You will then need a Skyline or Cefiro RB20/25 gearbox, not from a GTS4 of either (they are RB20DET 4WD). Be aware that the RB25 box is slightly larger than the RB20 box. If the turbo get's in the way, get a high-mount kit for it.

Diesel generates a much cooler EGT than petrol. So be sure that the turbo is going to be able to cope with the additional head load that you will put on it. Aside from that, you will want to get some idea of the A/R's & a compressor map.

Agreed, keep the bore as small as possible. The % gains of the extra displacement just aren't worth the risk of destroying your motor....

I too have been gathering parts for a TT stroker for a number of years now.... I have the F54 block, a fully ported & CC'd P90 head, custom TT exhaust & ported inlet manifold, LD28 crank, various length rods, 2xT28's, Racegate etc etc. Will I build it? Perhaps.... Then again, perhaps I'll alter my N42/N42 engine & fit a set of forgies & the P90, upgrade the injectors from the E15T to the 550cc 13BT ones I have, screw in another bar of boost & take it from there. But what to do with the TT manifold & Racegate? Perhaps a set of GT-R T25's (I know the flange is smaller) and a very well balanced L24 might be the go. 8000rpm anyone? 8)

It is stock?

Draw-through turbocharging works just as well as blow-through. Things to bear in mind: Throttle response is VERY dull if you draw-through & intercool (been there in my old L24T), the inlet tract was too long. You must use a carbon seal in the compressor to avoid oil being drawn into the engine under vacuum conditions. Turbo spin-down is limited on shifts, as the engine consumes all the compressed charge. By fitting all vacuum signal ports between the throttle plate & the compressor, you can remove the requirement for check-valves etc in various pneumatic lines (the lines wont see any boost). An alternative to a BOV in a blow-through app, is to fit a second synchronised throttle plate pre-compressor - effectively this gives you the best of both worlds. The response of blow-through & the compressor speed retention of draw-through. without a BOV buggering up your MAS (if fitted)

Damnit, they're all so NEAT! Mine is 100% functional, but not as pretty.... 1973 240Z N42/N42 L28E (stock), Turbo head bolts, Turbo oil pump, SK's J-pipe, VG30ET T3 with T4 Compressor, 2.5" SS system, AiResearch IC, oil & trans coolers, kitted 3N71B, E15T injectors, Haltech E6A, custom dizzy, MSD-6A, 3.90:1 R180. 1/4 mile? - who knows....

It's currently getting an L28 single turbo setup for use as an 'in-the-meantime' engine. I've been gathering parts for the TT setup for quite some time now & I expect that it won't be finished for around a year. The current setup (not quite running):

I sooo want one. My desktop wallpaper has been the OSG brochure for this head for ages. It's about to be replaced.... My (under contruction) L31ETT just doesn't quite make the grade when compared to this thing. BUT, I am managing to squeeze it all in the original engine bay! Top work Alan (again)

That sux - whats a compression test show?

faaaark - I have to pay the best part of $1K for a N/A L28 from a wrecker here....

Dunno, but you could always try to get a 300ZR front-cut. Then you'd have everything you need. Sorry to be of little help...