Ben

FWIW, on my old N42/N42 turbo, I was pulling 4 degrees out of the peak tq timing to eradicate audible pinging on an uphill full-throttle run. Now that wasn't your typical missfiring, black smoke, engine-lunching detonation, but it is an indication of the sort of thing you need to do. WLAN?! - heck, my tuning laptop barely has a 32-bit processor and I can still extract timing maps from it. Show us your maps and I have a feeling that the cause will stand out like a sore thumb.

Timing? Is your EGT high?

There is no flasher or indicator can - it's all controlled by the 'time control unit'. This box does the intermittent speed, clock, indicators, warning chime, and anything else you can think of that has any kind of 'time' element... My suggestion to you: convert the indicators over to use a conventional 2-pin flasher-can setup. I've got a FSM for the R30 if Nigel runs out of resources.

I think you'll find that you're on the right track to resolving the issue, but it does sound like you are still in 'beginner's league' at turbo school. So... if words fail you when trying to describe the setup, post pics, they will help a lot.

Have you checked the readings on the CHTS? Are they within spec?

For once, Wikipedia has some reasonably useful information in it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine#RB20 Just you try getting good power from a NICS motor, it just won't happen. (without disproportionate investment)

I get it now , but I agree with what Wax said; if you want to stretch a 2.0L Nissan to breaking point, the SR will go further (as much as I think that they have some pretty ordinary design features, such as a single-row chain). But if it's just an exercise in learning and development, then go for it. Just make sure you get an ECCS motor, not a NICS one. (NICS was R31/Z31, ECCS was R32 onwards)

IMHO the Haynes manual is better than nothing - but having said that, it's geared to the USDM-spec cars, so there's heaps of crap in it that doesn't apply to Aus-spec Zeds! Still, it got my confidence up enough when I first got my 240Z, and I guess I might refer to it on the odd occasion... Gregorys manuals on the other hand, are next to effing useless... Try doing anything on an RB using one of those manuals, and you'll soon find holes big enough to sail the Titanic through. I can sympathise with your plight...

Note sure if it ticks all your boxes, but... http://www.racetep.com/tnetic.html Or, try to get hold of one from a 300ZXT.

Now we're getting somewhere! (and it turns out to be closer to home than I'd thought...) That number suits the C35 Laurel with the RB25DE(T) and the Series 2 WC34 Stagea 2WD RB25DE(T) Both from late 1998 onwards. So I'd suggest that the engine was an aftermarket transplant into one of those models.

Yes and maybe... A visual inspection will do you wonders, and you're pulling the head apart anyway.

FAST shows 3 different insulators in use on the Z31 body - 300ZX, 200ZR and 300ZR. None of which 'appear' to resemble what you have. Are there any part number still legible on the insulators?

Assuming everything is 'ok' with your setup (i.e. no faults), then Nistune for the factory look, factory feel, and cheap price. Otherwise Link/Vipec as kiwi303 says.

Forget trying to work the the original unit up to 1-bar, it's 20 years old. One of the cheapest upgrades to the stock L28ET snail would be a stock RB25DET one. It will come on much faster than the clunky ol' TO3 originally fitted. Ball bearing, ceramic wheel - feed it clean air and oil, keep it under 15psi and it will practically last forever... I'm thinking of using nought more than a high-flow RB25DET turbo on my new forged L28ET. They'll make 250rwkw out of an RB25, and that's more than I want from my engine (the engine should flow reasonable lbs/min too - my P90 flowed 311HP on the bench).

I've recently used a workshop with a 'Mainline' eddy-current dyno, and the software was fantastic. The vendor has an SDK and will attempt to integrate any tuning software you have into their application. So while the operator is adjusting dyno parameters, they can be tuning your car with the same keyboard - and looking at both apps on the screen at the same time. The system also has variables that you can enter in such as stall rpm to assist with that low-rpm tuning on auto's that tends to be a bitch. One of the big differences between inertia and eddy current dynos is that you have to 'drive through' a load point on the inertia unit. On an eddy current, you can set it to hold the dyno at a constant speed (providing you can shed the heat generated within the dyno), and then vary the load via the throttle. It makes fully mapping a particular rpm point easy (and can really test the mechanicals of the car). I've seen a few Dynapaks here in Aus, but we mainly use eddy-current types - the AWD ones are particularly handy!

600-800rwhp you say? I'm assuming these are 'dynojet' numbers, but even so, that's still upwards of 350rwkw. What driveline are you planning on using for those kinds of numbers? A stock gearbox (even a 25DET one) will not tolerate any abuse at those numbers, you'll be using a triple-plate clutch, custom 3" tailshaft, 300ZXT axles etc. etc. You say that the money going into the engine isn't going to be 'too much', but a 300+rwkw RB20DET is pretty bloody serious, and will need to spin to some ridiculous rpm number to generate that kind of HP level. If you want that kind of power, reliably, then you're talking about a built RB26DETT, not a full-house one, but not a stock one either (poncams, headwork, forged, bigger oil pump, injectors, HKS-GTRS or a decent single), plus all the supporting mods (PowerFC or other full EMS, pumps, the list goes on...) I don't think you'd get change from $7kUSD On the other hand.... Almost every other R33 in these parts is turning around 200rwkw, my auto RB25DET Stagea puts down 150awkw, and that's with some pretty minor mods (exhaust, mappable AFM and boost, shift kit, and RB25DET NEO SMIC). 200rwkw is easily doable in a '33 - but not with the stock turbo (they just spin too hard and will eventually fail at those numbers). You won't really see much over the 190rwkw mark on an 'unopened' RB20DET. Some food for thought - drop into the Skylines Australia forums and have a look around at what people are up to, the RB's can make excellent, reliable power, but it's not free!

Cheers Ron - you beat me to it!

NP, your sensors are as follows: Coolant Temp (ECU - 2 pin) Thermotime switch (large, 2-pin, cold start injector control, if fitted) and Coolant temp (gauge - 1 pin)

I guess I should post my (currently garaged) setup: Engine: L28E (N42/N42) with turbo head bolts and oil-pump, thermostatically controlled oil-cooler. Turbo: VG30ET T3 turbo (T4 compressor) Intake/Exhaust: Pipercross inline-pod & cold-air intake, 2.5" I/C piping, 450x300x76 Intercooler, standard manifold, rail, Bosch 910 pump, 3/8 lines, 370cc injectors, L28E exhaust manifold, SK's J-pipe, 2.5" SS exhaust (split-dump), single muffler, no cat. Other Drivetrain: 3N71B automatic, 2500rpm stall, Kevlar clutches, 6200rpm shift, 3.90:1 R180 single-spinner. Boost: From memory... available before stall speed, all-in (~10psi) by 3000. ECU: Haltech E6A, custom hall-effect setup, MSD6A. HP: About 145rwkW (also from memory!) as measured on eddy-current dyno in 2nd It pulls like a train with the auto, until it runs out of revs in top... Current works: MM CV adaptors, 300ZXT 1/2-shafts, 3.90:1 R200 LSD, tailshaft loop, 'prepared' F54/P90 engine (forged, ARP etc etc), OEM turbo manifold, ported intake manifold, Ford 4.0L XR6 TB, MoTec M48 ECU, possibly bigger turbo = 400+HP at the engine, and a drivetrain to match. And FWIW, I'm running timing around the 18 mark at full boost, 4500rpm on a crappy chambered N42 dished setup. But that is using 98RON with octane booster...

An excellent thread on an excellent topic (although at the OP's cost since we are discussing a real 'problem' causing someone real grief). My only comment at this stage is to those who may be advocating a larger turbine A/R to address the issue and the corresponding power delivery which would occur as a result. For a driveable setup - It's not about peak power, it's about the area under the curve. You've got to be happy that you've achieved your current result with a stock head. Perhaps you could fit your new head, raise your CR a bit (1mm gasket) and lose 5psi of boost? (The most amount of power on the least amount of boost, it's the mechanically friendly way to go!)

I thought that the Z only used the lugs for locating, so never mind that aspect! I was considering the Grids, but as you have said, they are no good in the +10. I'm currently looking at RB 16x7 F and RB16x8 R as an option. Cheers,

That would be a Series 2 WGNC34 Stagea 260RS - practicality and fun all in the same package! (Mine is the RB25DET AWD Auto, but has had a few 'upgrades' that make it as powerful as the 260RS) GL with the conversion and don't forget to look on places such as skylineaustralia.com if you want any RB help

Re; X-factor, see Wikipedia; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing#X-factor. But in short, it's the calliper clearance around the hub/spoke area. The reason people need to use spacers with bigger brakes (read 'wider callipers') is insufficient X-factor. The trouble is, in Australia wheel spacers are illegal, and my car will need to be inspected (again) when I (eventually) fit my new L28ET. Further to that, slip-on spacers are not all that great for the hub-centric alignment of the wheel.

Not meaning to digress from the direction that this topic has gone, but... I had the S12 4x4 setup on my car with R31 Skyline rears and a Willwood prop valve. (an adjustable prop valve is a must once you get carried away!) I have now got the S12W/300ZX setup on the front and are having one heck of a time finding wheels that have enough x-factor to clear the front callipers without spacers. It looks like Rota Grids are no good, but I'm not sure about RB's in 15x7, 15x8 16x7 or 16x8 +4. Garrett from MSA is looking into the wheels they have (Konig, Sportmax etc) to see if any will fit. It seems that 280ZXT Swastika's fit, but what others are known to be ok? Can some of you guys that are running this setup (with the calliper directly mounted to the strut) comment?

At the risk of being a 'me too', I have to say 'me too'. A tee in both heater hoses effectively makes the turbo run in parallel with the factor heater core. I've run my VG30 T3/T4 that way for about 100,000 km over 10 years.